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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Wash, Wax, Detailing and Cosmetic protection/repairs > cant get paint smooth



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      06-25-2013, 10:29 PM   #1
rightaway
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cant get paint smooth

I have been detailing for awhile now and I know what usually works but this is my first BMW. I clay bar the car, than used the NanoSkin Autoscrub Pad and the paint is still not smooth like glass. so I tried Meguiars M105 and M205 and than applied poor boy sealant. and it feels just a little better still rough. I have been detailing cars for over 10 years and never had this problem. and suggests?
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      06-25-2013, 10:39 PM   #2
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Hey Bro,
uhmm do you have any pictures of the rough surface?
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      06-25-2013, 10:52 PM   #3
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Sounds like you need an aggressive clay. Why the hell do you clay then nanoscrub? Thats just a huge waste of time. Its either one or the other. Is your lubricant too slick?
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      06-26-2013, 12:18 AM   #4
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You know, I think I may have the same problem with my car. It got clayed and polished a few months back and is mostly smooth like glass, but there are a few areas where the paint is still rougher. It still looks glossy, but when i run my hand over it, I hear a slight "shhh" sound and it doesn't feel glassy. Interested to hear whether anyone else has solved this issue.
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      06-26-2013, 01:12 AM   #5
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Is this all over the car or only isolated in a certain area (ie fender, bumper, Lower body panels, etc)???
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      06-26-2013, 07:55 AM   #6
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may be that part was over spray or repainted?
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      06-26-2013, 10:52 AM   #7
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if it was poor repaint job, then wet sanding would be an option (assuming you have experience with wet sanding). But I personally think wet sanding should be the last option.
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      06-26-2013, 01:16 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psnt1ol View Post
Is this all over the car or only isolated in a certain area (ie fender, bumper, Lower body panels, etc)???
Don't mean to threadjack--OP we want to hear your answer too.

For me, the rough areas are random patches around the car--for example the area on the driver's door above the level of the handle and below the window. I don't think this is from a respray.
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      06-26-2013, 06:06 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SF Space Grey View Post
Don't mean to threadjack--OP we want to hear your answer too.

For me, the rough areas are random patches around the car--for example the area on the driver's door above the level of the handle and below the window. I don't think this is from a respray.
In your case....it might be overspray. Is it more rough on one side versus the other???? or is it more on the top horizontal planes rather than the lower panels??? You might need a more aggressive grade of clay and consider applying IronX or Trix to the paint prior to claying.

If you are looking for the ultimate decontamination process... look into the Finish Kare Paint Decontamination System. This is not a kit for novice so be careful.

As for OP.... still waiting for your reply.
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      06-26-2013, 09:06 PM   #10
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Its the whole car. maybe I need a more aggressive clay. any suggestions? the reason I clayed than auto scrub is that usually I do one or there other but after I clayed the whole car, it still felted rough so I broke out the auto scrub and thought that would do it but it didn't help at all. I owned the car only for a few months and now it is garage kept but before, who know. I bought 22ple and want to apply that but want it smooth as glass first. here are some pictures...
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      06-26-2013, 09:13 PM   #11
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      06-26-2013, 10:06 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rightaway View Post
Its the whole car. maybe I need a more aggressive clay. any suggestions? the reason I clayed than auto scrub is that usually I do one or there other but after I clayed the whole car, it still felted rough so I broke out the auto scrub and thought that would do it but it didn't help at all. I owned the car only for a few months and now it is garage kept but before, who know. I bought 22ple and want to apply that but want it smooth as glass first. here are some pictures...
My experiences with the AutoScrub has been great. I find that it could do the job of clay faster and if not better than clay. I use the medium grade pad for cars that are heavily contaminated and the fine grade wash mitt is for the light stuff.

Here are a few tips I learned from working with this product.

I find the pad works best on a DA than a hand application. Speed 2 on the DA seems to be the sweet spot.

The breaking in period is a bit longer than most thought so spend some time breaking it in on all the glass surfaces around the house.

A dedicated lube is a must. I use a heavier than norm ONR solution. I like ONR because I could tailor the dilution to suit my need.

Moderate arm speed with little to no pressure and be sure to rinse out the pad with clean water often.

Marring- this is a concern for some but I generally will polish after so it is an irrelevant issue for me.

I hope this helps. Good Luck.

Almost forgot...... Do Try IronX or Trix prior to this process. It makes it even easier. It is a great 1,2 punch.
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      06-27-2013, 07:27 PM   #13
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I'm not sure if I have the medium or fine auto scrub. and I use mothers spray wax as a lube.
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      06-27-2013, 08:22 PM   #14
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Quote:
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I'm not sure if I have the medium or fine auto scrub. and I use mothers spray wax as a lube.
the fine grade is blue in the center (foam) and the medium is yellow. I prefer a dedicated lube over a spray wax.

Nano Glide by Nanoskin. 16oz will get you a gallon of lube at 1:7 dillution. 1 part NanoSlide to 7 part distilled water.

ONR - Normally 2 oz ONR to 1 Gallon of distilled water. I use 3 oz to 1 Gallon for the pads.
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      06-28-2013, 01:52 PM   #15
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There was a spot on the Benz it sounded like sand paper nice clay bar did wonders idk what u got on there
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      06-28-2013, 01:55 PM   #16
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Uhm before you Damage your paint, I strongly suggest that you get advise from your local auto detailer~
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      06-28-2013, 08:23 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teemo Panda View Post
Uhm before you Damage your paint, I strongly suggest that you get advise from your local auto detailer~
+1

I second that, you can ask them to do a test panel as well to see. Maybe get some advice from them. We offer training here at Detail Addict, but we're located in Santa Clara, CA. You're always to give us a ring if you have questions. =)
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      06-29-2013, 06:18 AM   #18
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Spray the 'suspect' area with a colour-change decon (Sonax, Iz, IronX) and see what happens
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      06-29-2013, 07:35 PM   #19
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thanks, I will look into them. is any one better than the next? where is a good place to buy?
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