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Built My Way's Avatar DIY Water Pump & Thermostat Replacement (2007 335i w/Automatic Transmission)
Built My Way
12-23-2012
DIY Water Pump & Thermostat Replacement (2007 335i w/Automatic Transmission) NOTE: This DIY may be used on other 335i model years and on xi models as well (part numbers may differ).

UPDATE (Feb 16, 2014): BavAuto has put together a great video of the procedure which can...
  #66  
By PichaDis11 on 05-17-2013, 06:07 PM
I've noticed higher cooling fan speed within short drives lately. Then came a low coolant light in the instrument cluster. This is an 08 328i btw. So I decided to check if water pump is working also by trying the bleeding method from OP guide. I got nothing basically, car sits silent. So I am wondering if the same procedure goes for an N52? Appreciate any help from you guys.
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  #67  
By Built My Way on 05-18-2013, 12:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PichaDis11 View Post
I've noticed higher cooling fan speed within short drives lately. Then came a low coolant light in the instrument cluster. This is an 08 328i btw. So I decided to check if water pump is working also by trying the bleeding method from OP guide. I got nothing basically, car sits silent. So I am wondering if the same procedure goes for an N52? Appreciate any help from you guys.
There's a DIY for a 325i around here somewhere which may help you to some extent. Try Google and see what you come up with.
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  #68  
By PichaDis11 on 05-22-2013, 07:21 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Built My Way View Post
There's a DIY for a 325i around here somewhere which may help you to some extent. Try Google and see what you come up with.
Thanks man! Turns out I was doing the correct thing but only the pump is rather silent. I had to take of splash guard to hear it running. If the coolant and drain plug gets here by Saturday I will tell the fate of this pump.

I suspect the silent treatment means that it is failing.
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  #69  
By Bavarianrules84 on 05-25-2013, 09:33 PM
Thanks alot for this DIY, was a great help, between this and my Bentley Manual it took me about 4 hours to complete. Thanks again
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  #70  
By tinnsoldaten on 05-31-2013, 03:27 PM
Just took off my pump , its a easy job if you do the fan belt and tensioner at the same time . Because I took of the chargepipe to front turbo , I had plenty of workspace and view to third bolt on the pump.

My pump had the bracket by third bolt broken , and the thermostat was broken off where its connected to pump ... yes this is due to a " I believe I can fly" moment. Also the cable to thermostat had one wire ripped off ... Of course not so that I easily could solder it , I will need to rebuild new plug for this.

I might take some pictures of how it looks from topside when hoses and chargepipe is off.

Sure make the job a lot easier.
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  #71  
By binaryagent on 06-02-2013, 05:25 AM
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2008 335xi Notes
-Both power steering line brackets must be removed so that the sway bar can drop out of the way. The 10mm bolt on the right side (looking from the front) is on top of a cross-member bar with minimal clearance and very difficult to get to.
-The stainless clamp screw on one of the water pump hoses was pointed directly at a solid cross-member with no way to get on top of it. The open end wrench must be used; slowly but surely. On reassembly, I turned the clamp around and lined it up with the available work area.

I cruised through this up to the point where I was putting the right power steering bracket bolt back. My wrench went over the top of the cross-member and into a crevasse. While struggling to get my hand over the cross-member to locate the wrench I pulled my power steering lines back. During that effort the lines suddenly eased up and moved out of the way and soon after I noticed oil dripping (I'm scheduled for an 8 hour drive for business today so that was the low point of this adventure). I then removed the 6 large bolts and pulled the thick aluminum pan below the engine. Found my wrench. Then I pulled my left front wheel and found the leak at the junction between the PS line and the PS pump. After 45 minutes of struggle I finally figured out that I could get a 3/8" driver with a 6" or 8" extension and a 19 or 20mm socket to the bolt on the PS line from the underside. I could see the bolt from the wheel well and that helped line up the socket/extension from the bottom. I used an extension bar on the 3/8" driver to get sufficient torque and had to lean on the intercooler rubber conduit somewhat to deliver that torque. If I turned that bolt it wasn't much.

So watch out for dropping stuff over the top of the crossmember at the right PS line bracket. If you do just remove the thick pan. And careful when pulling on the PS lines because you will loosen the bolt securing them.

Otherwise the process was straight forward and after reading this DIY there wasn't much guessing as to what needed to be done.
Last edited by binaryagent; 06-02-2013 at 05:46 AM.
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  #72  
By Built My Way on 06-02-2013, 11:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by binaryagent View Post
2008 335xi Notes
-Both power steering line brackets must be removed so that the sway bar can drop out of the way. The 10mm bolt on the right side (looking from the front) is on top of a cross-member bar with minimal clearance and very difficult to get to.
-The stainless clamp screw on one of the water pump hoses was pointed directly at a solid cross-member with no way to get on top of it. The open end wrench must be used; slowly but surely. On reassembly, I turned the clamp around and lined it up with the available work area.

I cruised through this up to the point where I was putting the right power steering bracket bolt back. My wrench went over the top of the cross-member and into a crevasse. While struggling to get my hand over the cross-member to locate the wrench I pulled my power steering lines back. During that effort the lines suddenly eased up and moved out of the way and soon after I noticed oil dripping (I'm scheduled for an 8 hour drive for business today so that was the low point of this adventure). I then removed the 6 large bolts and pulled the thick aluminum pan below the engine. Found my wrench. Then I pulled my left front wheel and found the leak at the junction between the PS line and the PS pump. After 45 minutes of struggle I finally figured out that I could get a 3/8" driver with a 6" or 8" extension and a 19 or 20mm socket to the bolt on the PS line from the underside. I could see the bolt from the wheel well and that helped line up the socket/extension from the bottom. I used an extension bar on the 3/8" driver to get sufficient torque and had to lean on the intercooler rubber conduit somewhat to deliver that torque. If I turned that bolt it wasn't much.

So watch out for dropping stuff over the top of the crossmember at the right PS line bracket. If you do just remove the thick pan. And careful when pulling on the PS lines because you will loosen the bolt securing them.

Otherwise the process was straight forward and after reading this DIY there wasn't much guessing as to what needed to be done.
I would like to add your note to the write up even though this DIY is for a
'07 335i A/T. Surely many of the steps are the same for other model years and it might be a good idea here to start listing any differences.
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  #73  
By cesanche on 06-14-2013, 12:27 AM
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Thermostat replacement only

This may sound like a silly question, but since I'm only going to replace the thermostat, should i only complete the steps up to removing the thermostat and then skip the pump replacement steps? Then pick up after the pump has been re-inserted and go from there. I also take it I need to vent the air when replacing the coolant?

First time working on a BWM and just really want to ensure I do this right. Thanks in advance for your tips.
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  #74  
By Built My Way on 06-14-2013, 04:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cesanche View Post
This may sound like a silly question, but since I'm only going to replace the thermostat, should i only complete the steps up to removing the thermostat and then skip the pump replacement steps? Then pick up after the pump has been re-inserted and go from there. I also take it I need to vent the air when replacing the coolant?

First time working on a BWM and just really want to ensure I do this right. Thanks in advance for your tips.
Hi! Yes, just skip the pump steps but do make sure that you vent the system as you will have to replenish the coolant. Good luck. It's fairly straight forward but takes a bit of time that's all.
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  #75  
By cesanche on 06-15-2013, 10:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Built My Way View Post
Hi! Yes, just skip the pump steps but do make sure that you vent the system as you will have to replenish the coolant. Good luck. It's fairly straight forward but takes a bit of time that's all.
Thanks!! Will carry this out this weekend.
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  #76  
By cesanche on 06-15-2013, 03:37 PM
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Difference in fluid through water pump

So before I started work I went to a shop to hook up a scanner. it came back that the elecric pump is shutting off because of a "fluid" difference. The guy told me that it's most like a leak because the code means there isn't enough fluid going through the pump.

I have not seen any leaks, and rather not replace a pump/themo if it's not the issue. Has anyone encountered this issue before?

Thanks,
Cesar
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  #77  
By BroncoHound on 06-15-2013, 03:42 PM
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Have you recently had to add antifreeze to the car? Did you use some other type of anti-freeze (such as a pre-blended 50/50 mix by Prestone or some other non-OEM supplier)?
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  #78  
By cesanche on 06-15-2013, 03:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BroncoHound View Post
Have you recently had to add antifreeze to the car? Did you use some other type of anti-freeze (such as a pre-blended 50/50 mix by Prestone or some other non-OEM supplier)?
I did the first time it overheated, but it really was below the min level. It was the 50/50 mixture, not the BMW coolant.

I looked again and I just don't see any leaks, so just wondering what could be setting off those codes.
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  #79  
By BroncoHound on 06-15-2013, 04:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cesanche View Post
I did the first time it overheated, but it really was below the min level. It was the 50/50 mixture, not the BMW coolant.

I looked again and I just don't see any leaks, so just wondering what could be setting off those codes.
I'm in the same boat. Coolant was a little low when I got the car back from a local guy walnut blasting and replacing the oil filter gasket. I added some Preston 50/50 that I've had on the shelf for a while and, about 100 miles later while cruising on the highway at 65mph, yellow to red to park on the shoulder. I let it cool off for about 5 minutes, started the car back up and all was good, no more temperature alarms. Drove it the 4 miles home and parked it. No leaks, no evidence of coolant splashing against anything I can see. I haven't driven the car or checked for codes since (been out of town for work) and was literally JUST about to order a new water pump and thermostat when you posted about a fluid difference.

Just speculation, but I wonder if a fluid flush and fill, all with the same type of fluid, would solve yours and my particular issues.

And, a little rant about how piss poor a design this is. A part that can cause catastrophic failure of the engine if not immediately diagnosed has no way to diagnose failure except with replacement and crossing ones fingers. Absolutely shameful.
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  #80  
By cesanche on 06-15-2013, 04:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BroncoHound View Post
I'm in the same boat. Coolant was a little low when I got the car back from a local guy walnut blasting and replacing the oil filter gasket. I added some Preston 50/50 that I've had on the shelf for a while and, about 100 miles later while cruising on the highway at 65mph, yellow to red to park on the shoulder. I let it cool off for about 5 minutes, started the car back up and all was good, no more temperature alarms. Drove it the 4 miles home and parked it. No leaks, no evidence of coolant splashing against anything I can see. I haven't driven the car or checked for codes since (been out of town for work) and was literally JUST about to order a new water pump and thermostat when you posted about a fluid difference.

Just speculation, but I wonder if a fluid flush and fill, all with the same type of fluid, would solve yours and my particular issues.

And, a little rant about how piss poor a design this is. A part that can cause catastrophic failure of the engine if not immediately diagnosed has no way to diagnose failure except with replacement and crossing ones fingers. Absolutely shameful.
So my car consistently warms up after about 4 miles or 10 mins running, then fans kicks on high, then yellow to red - every time. Tray was taken out, no leaks, splashes evident - under car or from the top. So the only thing I have are the codes, which state those two conditions, water pump on/off due to fluid difference. Wonder if it's a sensor now or again if the water pump is to blame.
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  #81  
By ksw2pro on 06-27-2013, 08:12 AM
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2009 445xi

I had to do this today. I did it on a 2 post. Made the process a lot easier. One suggestion that I had if I was doing this on the ground. I would put jack stands and have the front wheel floating because removing the hoses is alot easier from the wheel well. Took me 2 hours. Hardly any tools.
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  #82  
By Zero_09 on 07-06-2013, 09:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ksw2pro View Post
I had to do this today. I did it on a 2 post. Made the process a lot easier. One suggestion that I had if I was doing this on the ground. I would put jack stands and have the front wheel floating because removing the hoses is alot easier from the wheel well. Took me 2 hours. Hardly any tools.
wow that's pretty quick.

Just not sure I understand. What do you mean you did it on 2 post and the front wheel floating?
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  #83  
By BroncoHound on 07-06-2013, 07:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zero_09 View Post
wow that's pretty quick.

Just not sure I understand. What do you mean you did it on 2 post and the front wheel floating?
A 2 post is a type of hydraulic car lift that has one lifting post on either side of the car. By floating wheels he's talking about jacking the car up and putting it on jack stands rather than just driving the car up on ramps.
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  #84  
By cesanche on 07-07-2013, 12:30 PM
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Great DIY thread

So here is my update, it took me 7 hours or so but I replaced the pump/thermostat and car is purring again!!!

I didn't use a ramp, I just jacked up my car on both driver/passenger side and the jacking point in the middle of the chassis.

Thanks to the original author of this post, every step was right on and although it took me a while, it was done correctly.

Thanks again, great forum!!!

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  #85  
By Built My Way on 07-07-2013, 06:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cesanche View Post
So here is my update, it took me 7 hours or so but I replaced the pump/thermostat and car is purring again!!!

I didn't use a ramp, I just jacked up my car on both driver/passenger side and the jacking point in the middle of the chassis.

Thanks to the original author of this post, every step was right on and although it took me a while, it was done correctly.

Thanks again, great forum!!!

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  #86  
By charrigan on 07-08-2013, 07:48 PM
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I did mine on the 4th using this guide. Great write up. Start to finish I was done in 4.5 hours. One of the best DIY write ups I've used.
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  #87  
By CarbonDuc27 on 07-12-2013, 01:59 AM
Starting mine next week once the parts come in from ECS tuning. Under $500 for the pump. thermostat and bolts.

Mine gave out with no warning at exactly 100,000 miles! Weird.

I pulled over and towed it home - knew exactly what is was and INPA confirmed pump failure. Sounds like the impeller is jammed or something when I try to run a test with the computer.

Oh well - it was inevitable. Now I hope to get it dissembled in a few days then once circulation returns to my arms, get the new stuff installed and hope I never see it again for another 100k!!

Thanks for the handy info and DIY.
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