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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > DIY Guides > DIY - Replacing Camshaft VANOS Solenoid



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      05-04-2013, 09:07 PM   #155
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excellent post thanks I swapped positions so easy to do.

Question I'm a bit fuzzy on this solenoid part how does the oil get into the sensor and does the oil prevent the sensor from... well sensing

also what affects does not fixing this have on the car?? worse gas mileage or???

.
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      07-05-2013, 07:11 PM   #156
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Great instructions. I just replaced both solenoids on an '07 E92 in about 30 minutes. My car doesn't have an oil cooler. Didn't have to remove the engine cover, just two screws to remove the ductwork and gain access to both solenoids. Super easy with this post (and the YouTube video I found).
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      07-06-2013, 10:41 AM   #157
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crashoverride View Post
excellent post thanks I swapped positions so easy to do.

Question I'm a bit fuzzy on this solenoid part how does the oil get into the sensor and does the oil prevent the sensor from... well sensing

also what affects does not fixing this have on the car?? worse gas mileage or???

.
It's not a sensor. It is a solenoid, which is an electrically-driven motorized valve (in this case). It sits in a cavity in the head and directs the flow of oil to the cam shaft VANOS adjusters.
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      07-18-2013, 12:03 AM   #158
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Just performed the clean and switch procedure with the solenoid valves on my wife's '07 328i Wagon. Yesterday it had shown a CEL and logged a code: P0012 Intake Cam Position Sensor.

I didn't need to remove the snorkel or engine to get at the solenoids. However, I will say that more than 30 minutes is needed for the engine to cool down. The car had been sitting for 1.5-2 hours and was still quite hot to work around. Ultimately, I only used brake cleaner on the valves--no forced air. I just sprayed 'em until they ran clean.

Upon reinstalling the valves in switched positions and starting the car, the CEL was gone. Then, after a drive and restart, I cleared the code and it didn't come back I'll update if the situation changes.

Thanks, OP!
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      07-19-2013, 12:26 PM   #159
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GREAT DIY! finished in 10mins. did not take off all that covers and stuffs so had to wait about 2 hours to cool down my car in 90 degrees haha.
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      07-23-2013, 05:41 PM   #160
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That was easy! took me like 25 minutes taking my sweet time and waiting for the engine to cool! you have to let it cool down because its extremely hot. I let the car sit for 30 mins and then very mildly misted the engine until it was cool to touch.


Just cleaned both my vanos solenoids with some Carburetor cleaner and swapped position for a 2A87 code, the car would go into limp mode when really punching the throttle. We'll see what happens
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      07-24-2013, 01:52 PM   #161
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I just got the 2A82 code and limp mode this morning and will be performing the clean and swap this weekend. One question on the reinstall, should the O-Rings be reused? I saw some mention of them in an earlier post, but did not see any follow up.

Also my limp mode is REALLY bad....car is not really running well at all....stalling. Did anyone else experience this?

TIA.
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Last edited by bigdaddycane; 07-24-2013 at 02:26 PM.
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      07-25-2013, 10:48 PM   #162
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe- View Post
Under WOT my car throws P30FF can this also be related to the solenoids.
this is boost leak frmo what I remember

http://www.n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13114
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      07-26-2013, 03:47 PM   #163
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigdaddycane
I just got the 2A82 code and limp mode this morning and will be performing the clean and swap this weekend. One question on the reinstall, should the O-Rings be reused? I saw some mention of them in an earlier post, but did not see any follow up.

Also my limp mode is REALLY bad....car is not really running well at all....stalling. Did anyone else experience this?

TIA.
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Visually inspect the oring, if no cracks....good to go
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      07-27-2013, 12:46 AM   #164
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so I got a P2A87 code a week or 2 back. Cleaned and swapped sensors and tonight I again got the same P2A87 code. Since it is the same code after the swap, any chance it is actually my vanos sensors?

Or what do I need to look at next? Cam sensor? Is this easy to do yourself as well?
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      07-27-2013, 12:44 PM   #165
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Great DIY!!!

I pulled out both solenoids cleaned them with carb cleaner and blew them out with compressed air, swapped them and everything fired up good! Cleared codes and restarted, all good. I don't know if it is psychological or not, but the car still seems off. I wonder if one of the solenoids is just bad. I will put some miles on the car and report back.

I would still like to know how many of you suffered SEVERE LIMP MODE conditions when you got either solenoid code with the low boost limp mode.

Thanks again to orionredwing and all the other posters that added worthwhile content to this excellent DIY.
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      07-27-2013, 08:58 PM   #166
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CRAPPP

I took those out today and sprayed some Parts Breaker and cleaned out with compressed air, when I put them back I swapped intake to exhaust, started up the car and its throwing 3100 (low boost mode) & 2A7A (??) ... Is it possible I fried my soleniods ? I'm such an idiot

Last edited by 007_e350; 07-27-2013 at 09:04 PM.
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      07-28-2013, 02:36 AM   #167
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 007_e350 View Post
I took those out today and sprayed some Parts Breaker and cleaned out with compressed air, when I put them back I swapped intake to exhaust, started up the car and its throwing 3100 (low boost mode) & 2A7A (??) ... Is it possible I fried my soleniods ? I'm such an idiot
fixed, had the cables swapped
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      07-30-2013, 10:11 AM   #168
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Great DIY OP, thanks. I had hesitant acceleration and occasional rough idle for almost a year now. I thought it was my spark plugs or coils and changed everything out but that didn't do anything. Went ahead and checked my car's memory history and there were VANOS codes stored. Bought two new solenoids and installed them within 20 min thanks to OP's great DIY and this youtube video:



My car is running super smooth, no more rough idles, hickups or any hesitant acceleration. Feels like a brand new car now
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      09-09-2013, 09:39 PM   #169
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Yeah, I'd also like to know WHY this should be done as a matter of maintenance and not just if any codes are triggered. What does it fix or improve ? How can you tell you might need it, short of any codes ? Rough idling is one symptom mentioned, anything else ?
OK, I answered my own questions: I replaced mine and my engine is def running noticeably smoother. Never had any codes. Had some vibrations on a certain uphill portion of a freeway, and sometimes jerkiness at v. low speeds. Both are either reduced or gone.

1 caveat: I actually replaced the ones on the car - the old p/n 11367516293 - with the new p/n 11367585425. And I got them used, & cleaned them up really well.
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      09-20-2013, 12:22 PM   #170
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I also had the occasional limp mode (2A87 exhaust & 3100 Boost) on my 335xi (80k & jb4) after 3-4 WOTs. I took both out, cleaned, swapped and replaced 3 times. At times it would be fine, but everyonce in a while id have a slight rough idle after starting and when cruising 65-70mph Id feel a misfire occasionally also.

I have continued to get the 3100 and 2A87 code so I decided to purchase 2 new VANOS and install. However, after installing this morning I had EXTREME rough idle and fault codes with in 10 seconds. Reset codes through jb4, turned off and restarted 4 times, same issue. Drove to work (10 miles) in limp and then restarted... same rough idle and fault again!

Does anyone have an idea of whats going on and why my car?
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      09-20-2013, 12:27 PM   #171
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Does anyone have an idea of whats going on and why my car?
Which JB4 do you have? G4 or G5? I got my vanos solenoid issue after switching to the G5. Not sure if its related but the timing was odd. Trying setting it on Map 0 and start the car.

Also, my guess is no, but are you still under warranty?

if not, try a (good) independent BMW shop near you to see if they can diagnose what may be going on. I don't think its the solenoids if you purchased new ones. Vanos camshaft sensors might be bad....
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      09-20-2013, 12:38 PM   #172
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I have the G4 board not the new one. I will start with map 0 and let you know after lunch. I have an extended warranty to 100k.
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      09-20-2013, 12:57 PM   #173
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I have the G4 board not the new one. I will start with map 0 and let you know after lunch. I have an extended warranty to 100k.
try the map 0 and if it runs well then you might have a bad board (on the JB4). I'm guessing it will run bad even on map 0.

if it does still act the same, CLEAR ALL CODES (with the JB4) and take the JB4 out and take it to the dealer and let them know you replaced the vanos solenoids. Do not tell them it ever had a JB4 on it. Let them chase down the problem under warranty.
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      09-20-2013, 01:09 PM   #174
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Just tried map 0 and had the same issue.

Unfortunately I have a AE Blowoff kit, DC Intake, and jb4 to take off before taking to dealer. Im thinking about putting the old VANOS back in for the time being because it ran fine with those unless I did a few WOT.

Any other ideas? Could this be any other problem?
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      09-20-2013, 01:31 PM   #175
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that is not much to take off/replace to get it covered under warranty. Could be done I an hour. DPs, FMIC are a PITA to take off.

Cam position sensor, or cam ledge bearing wear. Both of which a dealer/shop need to diagnose.
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      10-29-2013, 02:17 PM   #176
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I got flashed with a check engine light and have a ghost error in the dash so read it with OBD and found a P1553 code. Sounds like this is a Vanos issue...

I have an N52, so can I reach + pull the solenoids from the front without taking the cover/ snorkel off? I can see what I think is the intake solenoid but not sure as I don't have any N52 pics to compare to.

From what I understand, I'll need to take them out and clean them. Can I do this with canned air (computer stuff, don't have compressed) and some brakleen? Unsure of how that should be done...
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