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      06-20-2013, 07:08 AM   #177
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Thanks Surly73 for troubleshooting with me. The sound seems to go away if I throw the car in neutral, does that mean anything ?
Neutral but with the revs still up? That tells me it's not an engine noise. Look at the rest of the drivetrain or wheel bearings. One thing to check is to see if the noise is influenced by whether you're slightly accelerating or decelerating. Find a road speed where the noise is clear and roll on/off the throttle. If it is louder on or off throttle and goes away in neutral it could be the diff. You can do a rough check for wheel bearings (shouldn't be influenced by being in gear or not though) by gently weaving left and right to see if it changes in character or gets much louder or softer in one direction.

If you meant neutral but letting the revs fall to idle then it could still be an engine noise. To confirm if it's engine related try to determine if you hear it in any gear at xxxxRPM and always changes character with engine and not road speed.

We're hijacking the wpump thread at this point...
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      06-22-2013, 04:06 PM   #178
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Replaced the WP - TS and OFHG.
Took 2 days.
2006 325Xi wagon MT6
119000 miles
Bought pump online from BMW Road Show in TN $325 w/bolt kit and free shipping
Kept getting low water signal when stopped figured it was time to replace these.
removed everything to get access but it was the hidden bolt under the intake manifold that was the problem.
Ended up loosinging the manifold to get my torx drive on the head before it stripped.
thank you for the DIY, it saved my life.
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      06-22-2013, 07:40 PM   #179
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How hard is this DIY? Like from 1-10 and 10 best the hardest.

I've done lots of maintenance stuff to my cars like replacing brakes, rotors, oil, tranny oil, spark plugs, and other easy DIY. I've just never really attempted to do a water pump on any of my cars before but this DIY makes me want to go at it myself.

How hard is this DIY compared to the other maintenance stuff? I have a garage full of tools so I feel confident I have everything I need except for a few specialty tools.
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      06-24-2013, 07:54 AM   #180
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It is as hard as doing anything for the first time.
The biggest issue is time - don't expect to have it done in two hrs.
Go thru all the suggestions in this post and you won't have an issue.
One thing that sucks is removing all of the plastic crap surrounding the motor to get at the pump. +1 on replacing the oil filter housing gasket.
My old pump had bits of black gasket on the face of the impeller.
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      06-24-2013, 10:56 AM   #181
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It's been 1 month now since I changed my EWP, Thermo, Vittese coller all OEM of course and touch wood no more Oil leaks or coolant issues.

I hope u get the right parts and fix the issue as this job costed me 2K! But when I saw the new continental EWP I'm comparison to the factory one I was very happy...but my Mechanic still told me that ever 80-100k ur be lookin at a change.

I think by then I'll have the 335is ☝
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      06-24-2013, 11:06 AM   #182
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zero_09 View Post
How hard is this DIY? Like from 1-10 and 10 best the hardest.

I've done lots of maintenance stuff to my cars like replacing brakes, rotors, oil, tranny oil, spark plugs, and other easy DIY. I've just never really attempted to do a water pump on any of my cars before but this DIY makes me want to go at it myself.

How hard is this DIY compared to the other maintenance stuff? I have a garage full of tools so I feel confident I have everything I need except for a few specialty tools.
I just did this Saturday and it took about 4-4.5 hours. My pump failed at 72k. I paid $560 to have parts (Thermostat\WaterPump\Bolts) overnight from ECS. I have never done it before and the hardest part was figuring out an angle and the right size ratchet attachment with swivel to tighten the top water pump bolt after I had the thermostat and pump back in the location. If it weren't for that bolt, this could have probably been done in 2-3 hours. If 10 being the hardest I would give this a 6. I'm usually just a brakes and oil change kinda person.
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      07-03-2013, 09:28 PM   #183
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Originally Posted by FstAzzWhip View Post
I just did this Saturday and it took about 4-4.5 hours. My pump failed at 72k. I paid $560 to have parts (Thermostat\WaterPump\Bolts) overnight from ECS. I have never done it before and the hardest part was figuring out an angle and the right size ratchet attachment with swivel to tighten the top water pump bolt after I had the thermostat and pump back in the location. If it weren't for that bolt, this could have probably been done in 2-3 hours. If 10 being the hardest I would give this a 6. I'm usually just a brakes and oil change kinda person.
Thanks. I'm also a brakes and oil guy. I just haven't touch the cooling systems for any cars yet but your post give me confidence on it. I'll probably do it Saturday morning. I don't expect to finish it in a couple hours.

Right now you can get the waterpump + thermostat for $425 shipped at getbmwparts.com with the July coupon code. Looks like a really good deal for OEM parts.
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      07-04-2013, 08:02 AM   #184
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Originally Posted by Zero_09 View Post
How hard is this DIY? Like from 1-10 and 10 best the hardest.

I've done lots of maintenance stuff to my cars like replacing brakes, rotors, oil, tranny oil, spark plugs, and other easy DIY. I've just never really attempted to do a water pump on any of my cars before but this DIY makes me want to go at it myself.

How hard is this DIY compared to the other maintenance stuff? I have a garage full of tools so I feel confident I have everything I need except for a few specialty tools.
I think you will find the WP/T-stat DIY pretty easy based on your level of experience. It's not a hard DIY at all, but you will need to have the car has high up in the air as possible on 4 jackstands (the safest way to work underneath any car) to have enough room to work. Follow Eninty's DIY and you will have no problem. The only special tools you need are a set of E-Torx sockets and an auto mechanic's dental pick (good for removing electrical connectors) and 1/4-drive ratchet, extension bars, and swivel joint. The job is way easier than replacing a belt driven pump.

The beauty of the N52/N54 electric water pump is bleeding the cooling system because you do not have to run the engine and get it hot to bleed the air out.
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      07-05-2013, 09:58 PM   #185
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Originally Posted by Efthreeoh View Post
I think you will find the WP/T-stat DIY pretty easy based on your level of experience. It's not a hard DIY at all, but you will need to have the car has high up in the air as possible on 4 jackstands (the safest way to work underneath any car) to have enough room to work. Follow Eninty's DIY and you will have no problem. The only special tools you need are a set of E-Torx sockets and an auto mechanic's dental pick (good for removing electrical connectors) and 1/4-drive ratchet, extension bars, and swivel joint. The job is way easier than replacing a belt driven pump.

The beauty of the N52/N54 electric water pump is bleeding the cooling system because you do not have to run the engine and get it hot to bleed the air out.

Thanks for the list of specialty tools. I hardly ever touch my 1/4 drive ratchet since I primarily work on brake components. I guess that 1/4 drive ratchet have some use after all. Only thing I probably don't have is that auto mechanic's dental pick. I'll probably stop by at my local store and pick some more tools up.

While I'm doing the WP and thermostat, do you guys recommend replacing anything else while doing the job?
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      07-05-2013, 11:23 PM   #186
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My pump just failed yesterday the morning of the 4th, luckily not too far from home. 03/07 build 335i coupe MT, 92k

I spent all day doing this repair, finally put everything back together. Next step is to fill coolant and bleed. I'm unclear about a few with bleeding, and I keep finding contradictory information; It's my first time performing a coolant flush.

all questions for N54 only:
1.Do you leave the bleed screw open when initiating the pump to self-bleed, or should it remain closed during this procedure?
2.Should the bleed screw be opened or closed when pouring in new coolant?
3. Is the self-bleeding procedure sufficient to remove all the air from the system? Should it be done more then once?
4. is it a good idea to also try and bleed manually by opening the the bleed screw, after initiating and completing the water pump self-bleed procedure?

As you can probably tell, i'm paranoid about air pockets potentially causing much damage. Thanks.
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      07-06-2013, 08:05 AM   #187
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My pump just failed yesterday the morning of the 4th, luckily not too far from home. 03/07 build 335i coupe MT, 92k

I spent all day doing this repair, finally put everything back together. Next step is to fill coolant and bleed. I'm unclear about a few with bleeding, and I keep finding contradictory information; It's my first time performing a coolant flush.

all questions for N54 only:
1.Do you leave the bleed screw open when initiating the pump to self-bleed, or should it remain closed during this procedure? - No
2.Should the bleed screw be opened or closed when pouring in new coolant? - Yes
3. Is the self-bleeding procedure sufficient to remove all the air from the system? Should it be done more then once? - Not necessary
4. is it a good idea to also try and bleed manually by opening the the bleed screw, after initiating and completing the water pump self-bleed procedure? - No

As you can probably tell, i'm paranoid about air pockets potentially causing much damage. Thanks.
Refill the coolant reservoir with the bleed screw open (it lets the air escape out of the reservoir as the coolant goes in).

Venting Procedure (to get the trapped air out of the system):

1. Insert the key into the dash slot and hit the starter button (but don’t start the engine – e.g. keep your foot off the bake/clutch).

2. When the ignition is on, set the heater to the highest temp (84 deg.) and set the fan on low.

3. Hold down the accelerator pedal for 10 seconds then release. This activates the water pump and it will cycle for about 12 minutes to vent all the trapped air into the coolant reservoir (it sounds like a mini washing machine). Don’t open the reservoir cap or bleed screw during the venting process! (you’ll have start the process over) You may want to hook up an extra battery to the under-hood jumper points to keep the car’s battery from running down.

4. Once the water pump stops after 12 minutes, open the reservoir cap (it will hiss a little) and add coolant until the measuring stick (ball indicator) is 6 mm above the top of the filler neck.
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      07-11-2013, 11:01 AM   #188
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      07-13-2013, 09:59 AM   #189
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Completed repair, over 2 days - took me 8 hours to replace parts, then a few hours the second day spent refilling coolant, checking for leaks, and test driving to ensure proper functioning. This is not too difficult to do yourself. Just takes lots of patience, and can seem intimidating if your looking at WP/TStat's for the first time, and coolant. Combined with high mileage and grime, can get very frustrating. Also, I'd imagine that hoses separate much more easily on lower mileage and cleaner cars - at 92k, I had an oil filter housing leak that I didn't catch for a while, and grime was built up allover my WP and Tstat connections/hoses.

Hardest part is figuring out all the right angels to get at to take each hose and bolt off. IDK why the damn clamps and screws are facing in such awkward directions from the factory. I realigned mine when reassembling.

I had to drop my 7inch intercooler to get at the top WP bolt and front Tstat hose, and another one of the top Tstat hoses.

Spent 1 hour on the front Tstat "quick release" (yeah, right) hose alone - wouldn't budge, wiggling up and down would not work. Finally called a tech friend who gave me this procedure when the quick releases are not detaching:
1- remove the clip off the hose completely - be careful not to lose it as it can pop off
2- apply WD-40 into the area where the clip sat, and where the hose meets the t-stat. Dump some, let it sit for a couple mins, try to wiggle and pull off, and repeat several times.
3-If that doesn't work, take a flat head screw driver, and ever so gently start prying little by little all around where the hose meets the T'stat. Gotta be very careful, b/c if that hose breaks, BMW doesn't stock it, and it's a bitch to replace the entire thing. -- I had to get to step 3 on mine, gentle twist of a small flat head screwdriver got things separating.

As for refilling coolant, it's truly as easy as in the 325i document (somewhere on here), or as Efthreeoh said above (thanks!).


Hope this helps somebody. Totally Do-able, could probably do whole procedure in 3-4 hours next time around.
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      07-22-2013, 10:51 PM   #190
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I just recently experienced my first EWP failure.. or so I think. Been reading different forums and have a few questions on how to fix my overheating issue..

What is the part number for the most recent ewp? I read that there was an updated or redesigned pump.. iirc

Is there an aftermarket pump that will last longer or work more efficiently or even perform better? Saw somewhere that there is a pump that replaces the plastic parts for metal. Would that be better?

Also, should I replace the stat too?
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      08-04-2013, 10:44 AM   #191
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so i did mine yesterday. Not as bad i thought. bleed the system twice topped it off and started the car. I noticed the fan did not spin on start up.
Ran the car for 15 20 minutes in drive way, no cooling fan... turned on ac fan worked.
Have heat in the car, no warning lights...
Did i miss something? i did disconect the battery during the change out of wp and tstat. any thoughts? going nuts? really wish it had a gauge...
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      08-04-2013, 01:04 PM   #192
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so i did mine yesterday. Not as bad i thought. bleed the system twice topped it off and started the car. I noticed the fan did not spin on start up.
Ran the car for 15 20 minutes in drive way, no cooling fan... turned on ac fan worked.
Have heat in the car, no warning lights...
Did i miss something? i did disconect the battery during the change out of wp and tstat. any thoughts? going nuts? really wish it had a gauge...
It's good. If you have no leaks, then you put it back together correctly. If you heard the new pump during the bleed procedure, then the pump is working to. There is way to use the turnsignal stalk to access menus to see the water temp; I do not know how to do it though.
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      10-16-2013, 12:26 PM   #193
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Thanks to OP

Thanks to the OP (back in 2010) for starting this thread as it helped a lot.
At 74000 miles my water pump failed.
I changed the WP and thermostat on my 2008 335i in a evening using the pictures and comments at the beginning of this thread.

Comments on the procedure:
1) After some frustration I almost left out the top WP bolt as I have read some others have done. I took a break form it and came back with a second attempt later and reached the bolt from a different angle.

2) Do not over torque the plastic bleed screw in the coolant reservoir as I did. A few days after I changed the pump I smelled coolant after a drive. It turns out that I had over torqued the plastic bleed screw and the repeated expansion and contraction over these few days popped the head off of the screw.


Now I'm going to research how I can modify the old thermostat in a attempt to get the car to run closer to 200 degrees.
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      10-16-2013, 03:04 PM   #194
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Hey everyone,
so I bought a car that had been in a front end collision. After replacing radiator, hood, fenders, I've found that the cooling fan runs at full speed while the car is running and never turns off until the car is off. While the shroud is cracked from the collision, the fan blades and motor are completely intact. The engine temp on the instrument cluster reads average temps so I can't imagine why it would need to run constantly (even at start up). I've looked around there seems to people with similar issues (although not exactly the same) saying that the thermostat or temp sensor in the radiator hose is bad, water pump is going (car has 76k miles), or maybe just the fan needs to be replaced. Any suggestions as to how to narrow this down and diagnose it?
Thanks!
ps the car is a 2008 328xi with the N51 engine
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      10-17-2013, 11:51 AM   #195
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When I got the yellow, then red overheat warning on the dash, the rad fan went to high and would not turn off until I shut down the car. I waited until it cooled and started the car and the fan came on full right away. I have one hose hot, and one cold, so I'm thinking the thermostat. Pulled the codes and got a water pump code. So I'm replacing them both. That is my suggestion to you, do them both as long as you're in there. If one is OK, it won't be soon.
BTW, how do you get the temp on the instrument cluster?
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      11-01-2013, 11:36 AM   #196
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I just skimmed over few pages and i didnt notice anyone saying anything about the updated version of the pump and the steel bolts that replace the old aluminum ones.

Old aluminum ones are longer and will not fully hold down the pump.

I had my pump replaced begining of summer and just recently an indy discovered that the pump was an updated version and the bolts were not. The top bolt was torqued however it was not flush do to the fact that it was longer old version aluminum bolt.

And yes the dealer was the one who performed water pump work.
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      12-06-2013, 03:21 PM   #197
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I have a 2006 325i E90 (99,500 miles on it) and had the amber temp light come on followed by the red temp light then limp mode........My check lights say I have low coolant, should I top off and drive around to see if I get the same problem again?
Going by this thread and other searches it looks like I need a new water pump/thermostat in which case i've done oil changes and that's about it but very handy overall.
Thank you for any help in advance.

Cali
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      12-06-2013, 04:33 PM   #198
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I have a 2006 325i E90 (99,500 miles on it) and had the amber temp light come on followed by the red temp light then limp mode........My check lights say I have low coolant, should I top off and drive around to see if I get the same problem again?
Going by this thread and other searches it looks like I need a new water pump/thermostat in which case i've done oil changes and that's about it but very handy overall.
Thank you for any help in advance.

Cali
Let the engine cool down and then check the level in the coolant reservoir - if low then top up with 50% BMW antifreeze and 50% distilled water until the level is correct. A further step that I would suggest is to let the cooling system run a few vent cycles (procedure should be mentioned at the beginning of this thread I would imagine). Some recommend putting the battery on charge while doing this, but if the battery is still healthy it really shouldn't need this for 1, but even 2 vent cycles.

Ultimately you would need to trace the coolant leak. But hope this helps.
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