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      12-01-2011, 12:35 PM   #45
import36
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Great to read that your problem got resolved.
thanks buddy!
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      05-26-2012, 02:57 PM   #46
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life saver after chaning thermosat + water pump still no luck it was fuse box in the trunk top of the battrey wft right
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      06-12-2012, 11:37 AM   #47
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life saver after chaning thermosat + water pump still no luck it was fuse box in the trunk top of the battrey wft right
I am also having water pump issues but want to rule out every other possibility before spending 1k to get it fixed. What other issues might be going on other than the fuses under the hood? Where is the fuse box in the trunk top of the battery? I am hoping it's something simple but I am prepared for the worst.
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      06-13-2012, 11:44 PM   #48
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I am also having water pump issues but want to rule out every other possibility before spending 1k to get it fixed. What other issues might be going on other than the fuses under the hood? Where is the fuse box in the trunk top of the battery? I am hoping it's something simple but I am prepared for the worst.
its right on top of the battery big red box looking is 45 bucks part
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      07-09-2012, 11:10 PM   #49
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sorry to bump a old thread, but is there any way i can check to see if the fuse on the distributor block is blown or not? do i have to take the whole red block apart to see?
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      07-24-2012, 12:27 PM   #50
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another victim....

'06 325i 6spd.... 97k miles

on a 105deg F day was blasting (120mph) on highway, A/C OFF and it blew... went <3 miles to service area, coolant was GONE... car took 1.5 gallons of coolant and the pump started back up....

Had dealer perform an oil change (had coupon 79.99) and read codes/check out (pressure test on cooling system- OK)... (they wanted $1700.00, to replace pump and thermostat; F that)

ordered parts from www.BAVAUTO.com: replacing H2O pump, thermostat, hoses, spark plugs, battery, and rear diff fluid this weekend... (wallet just got thin)


Since there is not a core charge on the water pump, I am going to take the electronic pack apart and map the boards.
since the actual motor and impeller do not fail there should be a way to fix them.... Will learn more when it is on the bench...

oh, I'm an engineer that makes rock crawler suspension in my free time so this should be a bit of fun 4 me
will post pictures on the weekend..
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      07-25-2012, 06:54 AM   #51
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Since there is not a core charge on the water pump, I am going to take the electronic pack apart and map the boards.
since the actual motor and impeller do not fail there should be a way to fix them.... Will learn more when it is on the bench...

oh, I'm an engineer that makes rock crawler suspension in my free time so this should be a bit of fun 4 me
will post pictures on the weekend..
Sounds interesting - please start a separate thread that can easily be subscribed/tracked/sticky-ed depending on what you find.
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      07-25-2012, 12:43 PM   #52
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Look forward to your diagnosis and pictures. A BMW regional engineer told me after a few beers that the pumps were tested by Siemens using an accelerated test to 200 hours, and then a model was used to project lifetime.
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      07-30-2012, 12:21 PM   #53
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Sounds interesting - please start a separate thread that can easily be subscribed/tracked/sticky-ed depending on what you find.

well i completely tore it apart. (broke it a bit LOL)

Continuity tested all the circuit boards and checked resistances across the winding, nothing abnormal.

in the processes I trashed on of the permanent magnets (oh well)....

none of the parts were cooked, no evidence of burn out... (FYI my pump only had a "intermittent voltage failure" not catastrophic (BMW tech's words)

Post some pictures tonight.

regardless i replace it and the thermostat, along with the spark plugs, rear diff fluid and took out and replace a cylinder head bolt that had lost it head
...

biggest PIA was the push lock hose connections to the thermostat.


productive weekend.
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      08-02-2012, 04:56 PM   #54
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Originally Posted by import36 View Post
UPDATE: There was a bad connection at the power distribution block, where the battery is located in the trunk. The bad connection caused the built-in fuse that powers the water pump to blow. The power distribution block was replaced along with the fuse....water pump is back to operating normally.

edit: The fuse I'm referring to is NOT the 50amp fuse located inside the DME box.
thanks buddy I just replace my distribution block , I replace water pump and termostat in march , yesterday car was overheat and I find i dont have power in the pump I replaced distribution block and car temp back to normal , pomp working

This Topic save my money and time ... Thank you import36
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      06-23-2013, 12:14 AM   #55
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Can somebody take a photo of the inside of the distribution block/fuses on the battery?

I opened mine up and couldnt see any fuses at all... or is the whole block basically a fuse and relay in one ?
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      07-23-2013, 03:40 AM   #56
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testing electrical harness to water pump via multimeter

I tested the water pump's electrical input harness with a multimeter:

legend:
~pin1- thick red positive wire
~pin2- smaller wire (forgot color)
~pin3- another smaller wire
~pin4- thick black negative ground wire

**note the pins are labeled on the harness from 1 to 4.

When car was off: (i tested from each pin to pin4, the ground)
~pin1- 12V
~pin2- 0V
~pin3- 0V

When coolant bleed procedure was in progress (pump running):
~pin1- 12-13V (or a little over that)
~pin2- 12V
~pin3- 7.5V (rounded value)

My water pump when plugged in and running the bleeding procedure did not make the pump running noise which should sound like a small dishwasher going off. instead it made like practically no noise, except for an intermittent buzzing noise. I got the yellow overheat indicator then the red indicator. But before I bought a replacement water pump I wanted to rule out the fuse/electrical harness/distribution block as being the main problem.

I think that this is an easier way to check the electrical aspect of the system. Getting to the F07 or F09 fuses in the e-box (engine bay fuse box) is very difficult for me. I just gave up lol. and as for the distribution block, i took a look, wiggled some of the wires, gave it a couple good hits just in case then walked away. too complicated to check. I hope this helps.
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      07-28-2013, 08:21 PM   #57
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Had same issue and replacing the distribution block fixed the problem instantly.

The way to check the fuses are to remove the part out of the plastic container on the battery and then wiggle the contacts back and forth. The one that is blown will clearly have a lot more free play in it than the rest.

This method is direct from a BMW mechanic at the dealer.
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      08-10-2013, 01:51 PM   #58
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Sorry for reviving this thread again. I'm having the same 2E84 comm error. No overheating yet or yellow/red indicators. Brought it to a indy shop and they say the pump is working, no fuses blown in the DME, but when the car is turned off the water pump continuously runs for another 2mins or so, which is not normal. It is possible that the stop signal to the pump is blocked. They recommend replacing the pump.


QUESTION: Can someone elaborate in more detail or include photos of how to trouble shoot the power distribution block on top of the battery ?? I don't mind spending $60 to replace it, but would like to know if there was a way to simply test it to be certain.

thanks,
K
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      08-10-2013, 03:43 PM   #59
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Update I pulled the power distribution bar out... and the fuses are just inside the red bar.. you can easily pry it open and see the fuses. Can't believe this crappy thing costs $60 - $110 depending on where you live.

Anyways, the fuses look fine so that's not my problem. Ive tested the fuses with a multimeter and everything looks good.

I guess the only other source is the WATER PUMP itself. Damn... In Canada, that's a $1100-1200 job with the thermostat.

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      08-10-2013, 03:45 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenmasters View Post
Sorry for reviving this thread again. I'm having the same 2E84 comm error. No overheating yet or yellow/red indicators. Brought it to a indy shop and they say the pump is working, no fuses blown in the DME, but when the car is turned off the water pump continuously runs for another 2mins or so, which is not normal. It is possible that the stop signal to the pump is blocked. They recommend replacing the pump.


QUESTION: Can someone elaborate in more detail or include photos of how to trouble shoot the power distribution block on top of the battery ?? I don't mind spending $60 to replace it, but would like to know if there was a way to simply test it to be certain.

thanks,
K
The water pump running after the car is shut down is normal.

It's one of the reasons bmw used an electric pump. It runs to circulate coolant through the turbos to prevent coking. Our turbos have oil and water cooling, this process does away with needing a turbo timer and having the engine run after a hard drive.
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      08-10-2013, 03:53 PM   #61
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Originally Posted by Reapur View Post
The water pump running after the car is shut down is normal.

It's one of the reasons bmw used an electric pump. It runs to circulate coolant through the turbos to prevent coking. Our turbos have oil and water cooling, this process does away with needing a turbo timer and having the engine run after a hard drive.
The independent shop that I went to that specializes in BMWs says this is not normal. Only the fan remains on, not the water pump. ? They BSing me?
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      08-11-2013, 03:24 PM   #62
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Originally Posted by kenmasters
Quote:
Originally Posted by Reapur View Post
The water pump running after the car is shut down is normal.

It's one of the reasons bmw used an electric pump. It runs to circulate coolant through the turbos to prevent coking. Our turbos have oil and water cooling, this process does away with needing a turbo timer and having the engine run after a hard drive.
The independent shop that I went to that specializes in BMWs says this is not normal. Only the fan remains on, not the water pump. ? They BSing me?
Have you tried wiggling the contacts to see if one is loose?

Why would the radiator fan run alone when an electric pump could physically move water through the entire engine and turbos? On a traditional setup with a belt or chain driven pump the fan is the only option but an electric pump can do it while the engine is off. Think about it ...
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      08-14-2013, 11:10 AM   #63
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Originally Posted by Reapur View Post
Have you tried wiggling the contacts to see if one is loose?

Why would the radiator fan run alone when an electric pump could physically move water through the entire engine and turbos? On a traditional setup with a belt or chain driven pump the fan is the only option but an electric pump can do it while the engine is off. Think about it ...
I' m sure the fuses are fine. No wiggle and I've tested them electrically with a multimeter. A blown fuse will not conduct electricity.

I trust that BMW designed it in a certain way and if it's not suppose to turn on it, it shouldn't.
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