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      06-08-2013, 01:35 AM   #45
WickedB
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ashmostro View Post
I personally would look into track pads and fresh hi temp fluid. Rotors will be fine if cleaned and bedded properly.

I am hard on brakes so take it fwiw.
I just flushed the brake fluid and refilled with ATE super blue... so I'm good there.. thanks for the info..

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Originally Posted by raceyBMW View Post
You will be fine with OEM, especially in beginner class. They are still very good, and will not fade too bad unless you are really hard on them, or are obtaining high speeds.
That's what I'm thinking.. plus my pad are almost new.. fronts have like 90%, rears have 99% (just changed them), and I flushed the brake fluid a month ago and refilled with ATE super blue.

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Originally Posted by rheemix View Post
I ran Waterford Hills a couple of times on stock pads. Brakes will fade, but it'll still stop the car just fine. You just have to press the brake pedal a little bit harder. You don't get to build up a lot of speed at Waterford Hills, and it's a relatively easy-on-brakes track.

One thing to keep in mind, though, is that although you'll get through the track day without any issues on stock pads, the pads will wear very fast in white smoke. So, if you plan on doing this on regular basis (2-3 times a year or more) you may actually save money by going with something better. If you don't mind changing pads for every event, getting dedicated pads is obviously better, but if this is something that you're not comfortable with, some dual-purpose pads, such as Cool Carbons or EBC Yellowstuff will last much longer than your stock pads while providing "some" improvement on brake fades. I ran Cool Carbon for about 30000 miles with about 6 track days.

Have fun at Waterford, and be careful at the top of the hill as there is no run off at all.
Yea I'm torn at the moment.. this will be my first track day ever so I'm either going to love it and be spending $$$ for improvements afterward OR it may turn out to be... not really for me so there may be no need to spend money on extras. I'm thinking I'm gonna love it though and be hooked! lol

Thanks for the info, I'm excited for Waterford hills! You didn't crash at the top of the hill did you?!?

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      06-08-2013, 01:40 AM   #46
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interested to hear how it goes. please let us know.
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      06-10-2013, 09:44 AM   #47
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Just finished a two day driving school. I was using Hawk HT-10's, Ate super blue fluid, and Dunlop Direzza ZII's. Fantastic setup! The car treated me well too...no codes or limp modes at all!
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      08-02-2013, 03:22 PM   #48
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I found this thread and wanted to report ATE super blue + PFC08 + stock rotors worked quite well at Autobahn CC of Joliet this past Monday. I had some vibrations even after bedding the pads in. Anything I can do to minimize the vibrations?
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      08-02-2013, 03:29 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spiike32 View Post
I found this thread and wanted to report ATE super blue + PFC08 + stock rotors worked quite well at Autobahn CC of Joliet this past Monday. I had some vibrations even after bedding the pads in. Anything I can do to minimize the vibrations?
It's pad transfer. The only thing you can do is brake ducts for cooling.
I used to get a ton of pad transfer from Carbotechs.

On our race car we use Pagid PS29. It's an endurance pad with great feel and lasts forever (we could have run a full 12 hours without changing pads on a 3,300lb race car). No pad transfer or vibrations due to brakes at all.
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      08-02-2013, 05:40 PM   #50
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Agreed. Pad transfer... Either more cooling needed as mentioned, or hotter pads.
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      08-03-2013, 01:40 AM   #51
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thanks I'll look into better cooling. Maybe cut out a bigger part of the fender liner so the m3 vent can feed more air to the brakes.
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      08-03-2013, 02:40 AM   #52
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Don't bother with the fender vent... Instead route the air using brake duct hose and build a proper backing plate duct behind the rotor hat. Those fender well vents do nothing at all given their location.
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      08-05-2013, 07:56 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ashmostro View Post
Don't bother with the fender vent... Instead route the air using brake duct hose and build a proper backing plate duct behind the rotor hat. Those fender well vents do nothing at all given their location.
+1
Check out CJ421 brake cooling duct installation. Proper cooling will make a huge difference. We're running the same thing on our race car.
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      08-07-2013, 11:49 PM   #54
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oh wow will do. thanks for the advice.
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      08-09-2013, 10:06 AM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ashmostro
Agreed. Pad transfer... Either more cooling needed as mentioned, or hotter pads.
Pfc08 have high heat tolerance.
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      08-09-2013, 10:12 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spiike32
I found this thread and wanted to report ATE super blue + PFC08 + stock rotors worked quite well at Autobahn CC of Joliet this past Monday. I had some vibrations even after bedding the pads in. Anything I can do to minimize the vibrations?
Can you describe in specifics how u bedded the pads?
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      08-09-2013, 11:48 AM   #57
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My last bedding procedure was to start with 40 mph-10 and 30 mph-10 moderate stops to warm up the pads, then did a bunch of higher speed fast stops from 70-30ish then a few really hard stops from 50-10ish then drove back home with a few moderate 30-10 stops along the way. I basically remember reading doing a few moderate, a few really hard, then end with moderate.

I would love your advice because I'm going to be swapping pads next week on Wed for a track day on Thursday at Blackhawk Farms. I posted in the regional forum but if you guys are welcome to join the track day I am going to if you're in the area. My friend who is the president of ChicagoRally is renting out the entire track and the private event is $50 for the day.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=874243
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      08-09-2013, 12:32 PM   #58
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Quote:
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Pfc08 have high heat tolerance.
was making a general statement of what variables one can play with in these circumstances
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      08-09-2013, 12:44 PM   #59
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I've always found the MOST effective way to bed in a set of pads for track use, is to sacrifice your first session, drive at about 6/10th and ramp up your braking as you go. Just be VERY careful the first 2-3 stops, especially with track pads.

They'll be good to go and vibration free for the remaining sessions.
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      08-09-2013, 02:37 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spiike32
My last bedding procedure was to start with 40 mph-10 and 30 mph-10 moderate stops to warm up the pads, then did a bunch of higher speed fast stops from 70-30ish then a few really hard stops from 50-10ish then drove back home with a few moderate 30-10 stops along the way. I basically remember reading doing a few moderate, a few really hard, then end with moderate.

I would love your advice because I'm going to be swapping pads next week on Wed for a track day on Thursday at Blackhawk Farms. I posted in the regional forum but if you guys are welcome to join the track day I am going to if you're in the area. My friend who is the president of ChicagoRally is renting out the entire track and the private event is $50 for the day.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=874243
Well. I had issues with improper bed in and judder but the advice ive recieved is all over the map. Most sensible ive heard is 3x 10 stops from 90-10 with long cool
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      08-09-2013, 02:40 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The HACK
I've always found the MOST effective way to bed in a set of pads for track use, is to sacrifice your first session, drive at about 6/10th and ramp up your braking as you go. Just be VERY careful the first 2-3 stops, especially with track pads.

They'll be good to go and vibration free for the remaining sessions.
I tried this with the pfc08 an they became intolerable after a few laps. I think the long hard stops w cooling is key for them
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      08-13-2013, 01:47 PM   #62
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I use StopTech's Power Slot rotors and Street Performance Pads.

I've had really consistent performance on track, and have used them for the past 4-5 years. They're a lot lower dusting then the OEM pads, but I guess almost any alternative would be compared to OEM hehe. Good fit, no rattles or squeaks.

The best part is the price. If you purchase from Amazon, set of pads are only $104 (fronts $58, rears $45), and rotors are $80-90. So full set for $500 (vs $700+ when I used to purchase from the vendors here).

Super great value for performance if cost is a major factor.
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      09-22-2014, 01:24 PM   #63
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This thread was a good read, I'll be getting some proper track pads soon.
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