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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Suspension | Brakes | Chassis > Let's Talk Endlinks



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      09-06-2013, 09:44 AM   #23
Denny347
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 91Octane View Post
My slammed-city with left/right binding and clucking noise was solved with Mayle HD non-adjustable links.
Looks like adjustable end links are in order as mine makes the "clunk" noise. Never did that before my ST's were installed. I wished I would have thought of this BEFORE the ST's were installed
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      09-07-2013, 04:58 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Denny347 View Post
Looks like adjustable end links are in order as mine makes the "clunk" noise. Never did that before my ST's were installed. I wished I would have thought of this BEFORE the ST's were installed
I'm assuming you get the clunk as you turn left or right into a slightly elevated entrance? If so, get longer adjustable end links.
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      09-07-2013, 05:25 PM   #25
Denny347
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Originally Posted by GreekboyD View Post
I'm assuming you get the clunk as you turn left or right into a slightly elevated entrance? If so, get longer adjustable end links.
Exactly. From what HP Motorwerks said, with the front suspension loaded, the end of the swaybar needs to be on the same horizontal plane as the swaybar mounts. My factory links are 11.5" and looks like I will need about a 14" link to bring the end of the swaybar down to where it needs to be.
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      09-07-2013, 07:39 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by Denny347 View Post
Exactly. From what HP Motorwerks said, with the front suspension loaded, the end of the swaybar needs to be on the same horizontal plane as the swaybar mounts. My factory links are 11.5" and looks like I will need about a 14" link to bring the end of the swaybar down to where it needs to be.
I agree. Exact same thing happened to me after my suspension swap this past March. You'll be flying in no time.
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      09-08-2013, 12:36 PM   #27
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I'm still trying to fix the clunk. I have since shortened my endlinks from 13/14 inches to 12.25 inches. My sway bar was bent and needed longer endlinks. With the m3 sway I feel 12.25 (which is still .75 longer than stock) will be perfect. However I do have a clunk, a slight creak and the car pulls left and right for no apparent reason. My quest for answers continues!
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      09-08-2013, 07:57 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whosdady View Post
I'm still trying to fix the clunk. I have since shortened my endlinks from 13/14 inches to 12.25 inches. My sway bar was bent and needed longer endlinks. With the m3 sway I feel 12.25 (which is still .75 longer than stock) will be perfect. However I do have a clunk, a slight creak and the car pulls left and right for no apparent reason. My quest for answers continues!
With the car on the ground or ramps, wheels still on, when you look at the sway bar does the end sit on the same horizontal plane as the sway bar mounts? The creak could be the sway bar bushings or might not be relates at all. I was under the impression that lowering your car required LONGER end links than stock. My stock links are 11.5" and I need 13.5" links to bring the sway bar back to stock location.
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      09-08-2013, 08:34 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Denny347 View Post
With the car on the ground or ramps, wheels still on, when you look at the sway bar does the end sit on the same horizontal plane as the sway bar mounts? The creak could be the sway bar bushings or might not be relates at all. I was under the impression that lowering your car required LONGER end links than stock. My stock links are 11.5" and I need 13.5" links to bring the sway bar back to stock location.
Usually a good starting point is getting the 11.5" end-link and lengthen it 1/2 to 3/4". Harold told me this. If your end-links are to long they will hit your lower control arm also. Another thing is with M3 control arms they tend to hit the dust shields causing a piping sound in some vehicles.
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      09-08-2013, 09:20 PM   #30
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I noticed my (stock endlink) setup pulls on my shocks after doing a 2" drop.

I would even say it added negative camber because of pulling so hard. Definitely needs to be longer (though I'm having trouble understanding how much longer) with a lowered car. Shorter would not solve anything.
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      09-08-2013, 10:26 PM   #31
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I just had KW v1 coilovers installed and I am getting the clunk noise, but only on the front right.

How do I figure out how much extra length I need? I want to order the adjustable links and bring them to the shop who will do the install.

I have a 2011 335xi.

Thanks,

George
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      09-08-2013, 10:32 PM   #32
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If you have FK silver X's please upgrade the end links to the HPA adjustable ones. I had 2 pair of FK links fail on me. The HPA ones have been good for over 2 years
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      09-08-2013, 10:57 PM   #33
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Whiteline makes some HD adjustable endlinks that are ridiculously beefy as well.
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      09-09-2013, 12:40 AM   #34
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blogs.eurotuner.com/6467795/editorials/bmw-135i-broken-sway-bar-end-links/
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      09-25-2013, 09:37 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whosdady View Post
the car pulls left and right for no apparent reason. My quest for answers continues!
Did you ever figure out anything regarding your pull. Im having the same issue.
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      12-29-2013, 10:24 AM   #36
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I oredered these

http://www.ebay.com/itm/290903791857...84.m1497.l2649



Surprsingly, they got it to the USA from Germany in under 2 days. Will probably just use whichever length that works for the fronts with what came with the kit and use the left over turnbuckles to make the links for the rear by cutting the OEM endlink and threading it for the turnbuckle. Assuming the diameter of the endlink will work for it. Maybe I'll even powdercoat it.
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      12-30-2013, 12:30 PM   #37
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Got my links in today. Very strong looking and feeling, sure they will work great and can be adjusted to whatever length I will need. However, their quality assurance sucks and would not recommend getting them. Zero of the turnbuckle body was threaded correctly. There is no turnbuckle body that I was able to insert the balljoint into on both ends. Some of them, I couldn't do it on either end. I see the problem and I am confident I can fix it, however they suck. If it were just one end, shit happens. But all of them.



At the very lip of the turnbuckle body, the threads are screwed up. There is something wrong with their process. This set, this batch....everything? I dunno. My guess is whatever tool they are using to thread the turnbukle body should have been replaced already.
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