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      09-15-2013, 06:33 PM   #23
JJH_335
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Originally Posted by kaitan View Post
Do you get alot of gargles? or pops??
Only get it when decelerating in the lower gears but nothing annoying. It also happened with stock but that was more muffled. Not so now.

CEL error codes are usually supressed with a tune but as far as I know, to do so without a tune needs something like a Burger Motorsport DP Fix.
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      09-15-2013, 06:33 PM   #24
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where at?
I paid $300 to have my dps removed so the o2 sensors could be installed at citywest (Newcastle) and pete charged $400 odd to install them initially.
It's quite expensive. How long does it take?
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      09-15-2013, 06:48 PM   #25
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It's quite expensive. How long does it take?
AFAIK its at least 2 hours labour sometimes more.

Highly recommend it Ran, with the bmw PE the cold startup is kinda obnoxious but other then that its not really that much louder (I don't get any drone really)
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      09-15-2013, 08:15 PM   #26
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AFAIK its at least 2 hours labour sometimes more.

Highly recommend it Ran, with the bmw PE the cold startup is kinda obnoxious but other then that its not really that much louder (I don't get any drone really)
Yea it's about a 2 hour job. Once you know what needs to be done then everything is quite easy just very tight fit! hahaha you are funny shane ! PE > straight Pipe > Back to PE again :P
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      09-15-2013, 10:05 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by DR-JEKL View Post
AFAIK its at least 2 hours labour sometimes more.

Highly recommend it Ran, with the bmw PE the cold startup is kinda obnoxious but other then that its not really that much louder (I don't get any drone really)
Hi Shane,

I found cattless dp + PE is very loud and the smell is intolerable for me.

my current setup is cattless dp + N54 midpipe. it may sounds funny to other ppl whereas most of N54 owners try to swap to N55 midpipe.

The smell is totally gone and its quieter. but it's not as responsive as before. I'm thinking to have catted downpipe and swap back to my old midpipe. any thought?
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      09-15-2013, 10:10 PM   #28
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Yea it's about a 2 hour job. Once you know what needs to be done then everything is quite easy just very tight fit! hahaha you are funny shane ! PE > straight Pipe > Back to PE again :P
maybe N54 takes longer than N55?
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      09-15-2013, 11:36 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ranoz
Quote:
Originally Posted by DR-JEKL View Post
AFAIK its at least 2 hours labour sometimes more.

Highly recommend it Ran, with the bmw PE the cold startup is kinda obnoxious but other then that its not really that much louder (I don't get any drone really)
Hi Shane,

I found cattless dp + PE is very loud and the smell is intolerable for me.

my current setup is cattless dp + N54 midpipe. it may sounds funny to other ppl whereas most of N54 owners try to swap to N55 midpipe.

The smell is totally gone and its quieter. but it's not as responsive as before. I'm thinking to have catted downpipe and swap back to my old midpipe. any thought?
N55s sound very different to N54s due to the different turbo and DP design. Therefore you can't really compare exhaust setups between the two unfortunately.
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      09-16-2013, 04:19 AM   #30
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Yea it's about a 2 hour job. Once you know what needs to be done then everything is quite easy just very tight fit! hahaha you are funny shane ! PE > straight Pipe > Back to PE again :P
Yeah i couldnt get my mate to fabricate me a straight pipe, a good deal popped up on a PE so i decided to buy that instead of paying an exhaust shop $300 for a straight pipe.
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      09-16-2013, 04:22 AM   #31
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Hi Shane,

I found cattless dp + PE is very loud and the smell is intolerable for me.

my current setup is cattless dp + N54 midpipe. it may sounds funny to other ppl whereas most of N54 owners try to swap to N55 midpipe.

The smell is totally gone and its quieter. but it's not as responsive as before. I'm thinking to have catted downpipe and swap back to my old midpipe. any thought?
Really, the smell isnt any different for me

Havig said that maybe being a N54 and yours an N55 is the difference?

Hmm I cant really comment on going with a catted dp setup on a n54 as i havent any experience with that setup, but I think if I was in your situation i may possibly leave the setup as is.
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      09-16-2013, 05:52 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ranoz View Post
Hi Shane,

I found cattless dp + PE is very loud and the smell is intolerable for me.

my current setup is cattless dp + N54 midpipe. it may sounds funny to other ppl whereas most of N54 owners try to swap to N55 midpipe.

The smell is totally gone and its quieter. but it's not as responsive as before. I'm thinking to have catted downpipe and swap back to my old midpipe. any thought?
Really, the smell isnt any different for me

Havig said that maybe being a N54 and yours an N55 is the difference?

Hmm I cant really comment on going with a catted dp setup on a n54 as i havent any experience with that setup, but I think if I was in your situation i may possibly leave the setup as is.
The difference is that n54 midpipe has two small cats whereas n55 is a straight pipe. that eliminates most of smell even with cattless dp . that is also why i feel throttle is not as responsive as before. But overall I'm happy with my current setup. Because I'm more concern the smell.

Ps. Now I have a spare n55 straight midpipe.
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      09-28-2013, 09:15 AM   #33
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My first mod was AR DPs with JB4, which obviously was great in terms of power. Then I installed the PE exhaust. I found it to be too raspy with DPs, so I installed 2 resonators instead of the secondary cats. This got rid of the rasp but created more drone at lower revs.
Now I have my stock exhaust back on with the can flap open all the time.
Happy with this set up now.
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      10-02-2013, 06:14 AM   #34
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My first mod was AR DPs with JB4, which obviously was great in terms of power. Then I installed the PE exhaust. I found it to be too raspy with DPs, so I installed 2 resonators instead of the secondary cats. This got rid of the rasp but created more drone at lower revs.
Now I have my stock exhaust back on with the can flap open all the time.
Happy with this set up now.
Yes DP with the stock exhaust is just nice !! not too loud not too soft and best of all no droning
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      10-02-2013, 05:20 PM   #35
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Yes DP with the stock exhaust is just nice !! not too loud not too soft and best of all no droning
100% that's what's on my car, but no one looks when I do a drive by
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      10-02-2013, 05:38 PM   #36
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100% that's what's on my car, but no one looks when I do a drive by
well to be fair it was only the one time you drove it
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      10-16-2013, 05:47 PM   #37
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Silly question lads, after JB4 and running map 2 on Caltex 98, if you go to AR DP's and a front mount, is there another map to go to or anything else to change? Or do you pick up power due to efficiency?
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      10-16-2013, 05:52 PM   #38
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i'd say 5 but im no expert
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      10-16-2013, 05:56 PM   #39
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i'd say 5 but im no expert
I've never used map 5 before it's always been map 2. I might try it today.
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      10-16-2013, 05:57 PM   #40
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Is there a summary of the maps? Stu @ BMR gave me a summary of the menu's - prob best not to know about other maps with an otherwise stock car....
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      10-16-2013, 06:02 PM   #41
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lol have you chaps never been to the burger website??? its all there
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      10-16-2013, 06:03 PM   #42
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hahahaha - clearly not!


Details:
http://www.n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10605

Maps:

Map 0: Stock bypass. This is the only map you may use the OBDII diagnostic port with. Set to map 0 before dropping off for service, using a BT, etc.
Map 1: 13psi (suggested for most stock applications)
Map 2: 14.5psi (suggested for those with downpipes and 93 octane)
Map 3: Progressive meth mapping with flow sensor failsafe. See guide to enable. Meth use isn't supported/suggested without a flow sensor and map 3.
Map 4: Stock map w/ CAN active. Allows full logging and in dash gauges on the stock mapping.
Map 5: Autotuning map. Boost ranges between 12-17psi based on your cars octane, conditions, and modifications. Fully E85 compatible. If using E85 we suggest around 30% to start. Refer to the E85 FAQ for addl info.
Map 6: User defined map generally only used for diagnostics or troubleshooting.
Map 7: Race gas map. 18.5psi peak boost on the G5 ISO. Requires straight 100-104+ RM2 octane unleaded racing fuel. The expensive stuff. We do not suggest using leaded racing fuel. To use this map with E85 requires the BMS E85 back end flash, inline booster fuel pump, and a 60% E85 mix.
Map 8: Economy / Non-Turbo map. Triggers a 3100 "reduced power mode" code while active. After switching back to a normal map you will need to restart the car for the code to clear.

1) Steering wheel controls menu attached. Note this guide is for the latest G5 board. For those using the older system refer to the FAQ for a link to the old sheet.
2) If you have an off road race car with downpipes turn autoclear on in the JB4 by selecting option 1/3. Even with autoclear enabled real codes will still throw a check engine light in dash.
3) JB4 has cold/hot oil protection built in. So expect stock like boost until oil temps are > 160 degrees. Same goes for oil temps > 280 degrees.
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      10-16-2013, 06:07 PM   #43
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lol have you chaps never been to the burger website??? its all there
Oh I know the maps but never have I change it from Map 2 to anything else since I had the tune on regardless of my mods.

But I know that map 5 is auto-tune. Which means that sometimes it can have more boost and sometimes it's less depending on tempreture and condition of the engine (Whatever that means) I guess? Correct me if I'm wrong.
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      10-16-2013, 06:30 PM   #44
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yep thats it
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