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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > AUDIO/VIDEO + BLUETOOTH + Electronics/Alarm/Software > Another BLuetooth, Phone craddle, USB install



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      08-28-2013, 07:49 PM   #111
alexwhittemore
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teaston View Post
It adds the telephone preparation and bluetooth, then you just need the bt aerial and mic afaik!
Best I can tell, that harness is ONLY for USB, part of which includes supporting the MULF, which overlaps with phone prep but is not phone prep in and of itself.

I only looked quickly, but the harness in the kit does not include the cable running to the Mic nor antenna, and thus is not phone prep.
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      08-29-2013, 03:29 AM   #112
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I see your point, sorry my car has factory bluetooth so i wasn't thinking of these problems!

May be you just need 2 & 3 here as well: http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/E9..._free_kit_uni/
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      08-29-2013, 03:38 AM   #113
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teaston View Post
I see your point, sorry my car has factory bluetooth so i wasn't thinking of these problems!

May be you just need 2 & 3 here as well: http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/E9..._free_kit_uni/
Actually ignore this it seams to be a universal kit.

This looks like what you need though, second kit ending 247, says for cars without telephone prep! http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/E9...cil_bluetooth/
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      08-29-2013, 05:00 PM   #114
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Looks like maybe, but without any detail there's nothing on that harness that looks like the mic connector. I honestly don't know.

It only cost me $20ish for cable and pins, the $60 mic, and a bunch of time to install.
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      09-15-2013, 11:51 AM   #115
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FYI

For anyone attempting this retrofit for Bluetooth with the MULF2 High module. Meaning your car came with just S640A option. 2 things to note.
  1. The mulf2 high module is used for USB as well; therefore when it comes to coding, add both S644 and $6fl to VO. Even if you do not need USB (Yet). The 6fl option tells NCS Expert that you have mulf2 high module and will call up the appropriate files to perform a reset for the mulf2 unit. i.e no errors.
  2. Your S640A (Phone prep) means the car is prewired for a TCU not the MULF2 unit. Rewiring is needed in the fuse box area for the microphone to work.

This worked in the blink of an eye for me. Radio is 2URAD as well.

Thanks to everyone who helped on this retrofit. alexwhittemore Thank you sir!
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      09-15-2013, 05:17 PM   #116
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I decided against this route and instead I am fitting the newer professional HU with usb and bt built in, as explained in this thread: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=687463

It is much easier, quicker, better and cheaper than adding the mulf2 and retrofit kit, especially as you can sell the old HU! and mulf if you had one!
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      09-16-2013, 12:11 PM   #117
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teaston
I decided against this route and instead I am fitting the newer professional HU with usb and bt built in, as explained in this thread: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=687463

It is much easier, quicker, better and cheaper than adding the mulf2 and retrofit kit, especially as you can sell the old HU! and mulf if you had one!
To be honest it is easier for an install but this HU you speak of is much harder to find and is more expensive than a MULF2 retrofit. Head unit costs ~$500 MULF can be had for $200, with other bits put it at around 350 total. Then there is no garantee that you could sell an old HU either as that demand is not here..
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      12-11-2013, 10:27 AM   #118
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For the guys who did this retrofit from the phone prep wires, can you please explain which wires need to be repinned from the white connector to the blue? I would GREATLY appreciate it if someone can please list this. Cant find a clear answer on this anywhere.
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      12-11-2013, 10:54 AM   #119
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alexwhittemore View Post
Looks like maybe, but without any detail there's nothing on that harness that looks like the mic connector. I honestly don't know.

It only cost me $20ish for cable and pins, the $60 mic, and a bunch of time to install.

Mic Wire from Guitar center for the win. My junk yard pull with the upgraded SOS button was only 43 dollars + mic. BMW Junk yard parts are cheap cheap cheap

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-E90-Dome...925297&vxp=mtr
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      08-01-2014, 06:41 PM   #120
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okay...my brain is smoking after reading thread after thread on this.

All I want to do is add Bluetooth to my car. I have the SA640 option installed. If I add the Mulf2 to the car, do I need any other parts with it (like BT components) to get it to work? Im not interested in the USB function as I am happy with my Aux cable input for my iPhone music.

I understand coding will be necessary too.

A simple, logical answer would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
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      08-01-2014, 07:12 PM   #121
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vintage Metal View Post
okay...my brain is smoking after reading thread after thread on this.

All I want to do is add Bluetooth to my car. I have the SA640 option installed. If I add the Mulf2 to the car, do I need any other parts with it (like BT components) to get it to work? Im not interested in the USB function as I am happy with my Aux cable input for my iPhone music.

I understand coding will be necessary too.

A simple, logical answer would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
I'm pretty sure the following is correct, but please verify:
you have $640, and you're pre-LCI, meaning you're pre-wired for phone.
You have NO USB jack in the armrest.
You have visually verified that you have no mulf under the trunk liner

I believe you will need only a MULF, probably no coding. You MAY need a microphone, and you MAY need a bluetooth antenna, as I think both are left out of the prewiring, but I'm not quite certain. The Mic wire and antenna cable should both be installed with the prewired harness.
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      08-02-2014, 02:44 PM   #122
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I have an '08 E92 with iDrive and the following features:

S609A Navigation Professional
S620A Voice Control
S640A Preparation f tel.installation univesral

I bought the MULF2 unit that ThumperX used in this installation. I also bought the other related parts, but my question relates to the MOST cables behind the rear seat. I opened the area up and saw the 2 connectors. In the retrofit guide, it shows one connector with 3 wires and one connector with 1 wire.

However in my car, I have the one connector with 3 wires, but the other connector has 2 wires. So my question is, do I still do the swap of those wires, and which wires do I swap? I can provide photos and more details if necessary. Thanks
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      08-02-2014, 03:17 PM   #123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mglax13 View Post
However in my car, I have the one connector with 3 wires, but the other connector has 2 wires. So my question is, do I still do the swap of those wires, and which wires do I swap? I can provide photos and more details if necessary. Thanks
Even with the pictures, I probably can't tell you, but what I CAN tell you are three things that should help you figure it out.

1) The MOST bus is a ring topology. Each controller on it has an input and an output. Imagine I have three devices on it, the MULF, the headunit, and the Logic7 amplifier. The bus might be set up such that the MULF output goes to the headunit input, then the headunit output to the L7 input, then the L7 output to the MULF input. In this way, if the MULF wants to send a message to the headunit, it says "Hey headunit, X." The headunit is the first to receive it, so it reads it and takes it off the bus. If the headunit wants to reply to the MULf, it puts a message out on the bus saying "Hey MULF, Y." The L7 amp is the first to get it, but it recognizes the message is not for it, so it just forwards it. Then the MULF receives it.

2) order doesn't matter. All this means is that every output must be matched to an input, but as long as they're all matched thusly, it'll work. If you find the lead that's the MULF output, you can plug that into the block there directly opposite the headunit input and away you go.

3) With the car turned on, the outputs will be lit up. For example, in that block behind the seat bolster, there are a couple green fibers coming from the trunk area - those will both be the MULF. There'll be a couple coming from up front, those'll be the headunit. Of the two from the MULF, one will be lit up read and one won't be. The red one is the output, and the dark one is the input!

The only other caveat is that there's a diagnostic port in the pedal trim that's basically a MOST connector, but with a cap on it that just optically shorts input to output. I THINK that's always wired in series with the headunit since it'd be silly to run extra fiber back to the back seat, but I'm not certain that's true.
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      08-02-2014, 08:07 PM   #124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alexwhittemore View Post
Even with the pictures, I probably can't tell you, but what I CAN tell you are three things that should help you figure it out.

1) The MOST bus is a ring topology. Each controller on it has an input and an output. Imagine I have three devices on it, the MULF, the headunit, and the Logic7 amplifier. The bus might be set up such that the MULF output goes to the headunit input, then the headunit output to the L7 input, then the L7 output to the MULF input. In this way, if the MULF wants to send a message to the headunit, it says "Hey headunit, X." The headunit is the first to receive it, so it reads it and takes it off the bus. If the headunit wants to reply to the MULf, it puts a message out on the bus saying "Hey MULF, Y." The L7 amp is the first to get it, but it recognizes the message is not for it, so it just forwards it. Then the MULF receives it.

2) order doesn't matter. All this means is that every output must be matched to an input, but as long as they're all matched thusly, it'll work. If you find the lead that's the MULF output, you can plug that into the block there directly opposite the headunit input and away you go.

3) With the car turned on, the outputs will be lit up. For example, in that block behind the seat bolster, there are a couple green fibers coming from the trunk area - those will both be the MULF. There'll be a couple coming from up front, those'll be the headunit. Of the two from the MULF, one will be lit up read and one won't be. The red one is the output, and the dark one is the input!

The only other caveat is that there's a diagnostic port in the pedal trim that's basically a MOST connector, but with a cap on it that just optically shorts input to output. I THINK that's always wired in series with the headunit since it'd be silly to run extra fiber back to the back seat, but I'm not certain that's true.
Alright, thanks, I guess that does help a bit, I just need to wrap my head around it. I basically took pin 3 from the connector with the 3 fibers and swapped it with pin 1 on the connector with 2 wires, and I lost all sound in the vehicle (radio, nav, voice control etc), so clearly that's not it. Then I swapped pin 3 from the 3 fiber connector to pin 2 from the 2 fiber connector. Same result, so I'm assuming that I should just leave the alone.

Last edited by mglax13; 08-02-2014 at 09:00 PM.
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