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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > DIY Guides > DIY E90 N54 Valve Cover Gasket



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      06-18-2013, 09:03 PM   #45
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So I will probably have to do this soon.....When I was at the alignment shop, they did a quick inspection while the car is up in the air, and found oil drops on my wastegate and my downpipes. They suspect it's the valve cover gasket leaking, which would explain my excessive oil usage, had to top off twice between my oil changes (every 6-7k miles). Does that diagnosis sound about right?

Also, I have an OCC, so is there an extra/less steps to change the VCG with an OCC?

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      06-19-2013, 01:22 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Googie View Post
So I had my valve cover gasket done at a shop and the guy told me after that he did the torque at 10. Is that bad? Should I be worried? I just got it done so can the torque be adjusted back to 7 - 7.5?
I had the valve cover gasket done back in March and it looks like its leaking again. Maybe they Torqued it too much and a bolt broke? It was good for a few months. Could there be something causing it to go bad? I am bringing it back to the indy shop so hopefully they can get it right this time and hopefully they don't try to charge me more $$
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      07-01-2013, 03:01 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robc1976 View Post
No need for it, just dont put the socket on ratchet all the way and it elk reach just fine.
Hey i understand what you are saying, however how long was you socket, to get my socket to get on the bolt, there no way i can even partially get my ratchet onto the socket. Please advise, i am currently stuck here lol
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      07-01-2013, 08:10 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bergman View Post
Hey i understand what you are saying, however how long was you socket, to get my socket to get on the bolt, there no way i can even partially get my ratchet onto the socket. Please advise, i am currently stuck here lol
Normal deep well socket and a extension.
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      07-04-2013, 10:18 AM   #49
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Originally Posted by robc1976 View Post
Very good point actually, I have a occ so I just removed the hose and not he check valve. I thought about using a gasket sealer but did not want to clog the tiny air ways in the head.
how do you remove the pcv connection, i tried removing the hose but cant get it off. thanks
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      07-04-2013, 12:47 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bergman View Post
how do you remove the pcv connection, i tried removing the hose but cant get it off. thanks
it is a squeeze to remove fitting. It sucks to get off man...hate it.
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      08-20-2013, 04:31 PM   #51
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Nice write up - will be ordering parts and attempting this soon - I just recently noticed a burning oil smell and upon further inspection found some oil leaking onto the deflector and dripping down onto the exhaust pipes...hopes the gasket is all I need!
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      08-21-2013, 03:45 PM   #52
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For anyone who did this, how long did it take start to finish... including putting everything back together?

Thanks!
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      08-21-2013, 05:55 PM   #53
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Took about 4 hours doing it carefully. And when you go to torque in the valve cover bolts, GO SLOW and don't go a ft-lb over 8 or you'll be sorry.

To take off the PCV connection, I used 3 BBQ skewers and a flathead screwdriver. You have to pry in 4 spots to get it off. It sucks. You will likely just break it anyways so get ready to dish out $25 for a new one.
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      09-20-2013, 03:15 PM   #54
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Quick questions:
1 - it looks like the spark plugs were left in the engine- is this correct, or do they have to be removed at some point

2- is there anything else that should be cleaned and/or make sense to repair at the same time, since you're already removing a bunch of stuff here anyways? e.g. the hpfs (high pressure fuel sensor) or anything else?

Thanks!
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      09-22-2013, 06:46 PM   #55
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Blue and single torque bolts do break !

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jklad View Post
Quick questions:
1 - it looks like the spark plugs were left in the engine- is this correct, or do they have to be removed at some point

2- is there anything else that should be cleaned and/or make sense to repair at the same time, since you're already removing a bunch of stuff here anyways? e.g. the hpfs (high pressure fuel sensor) or anything else?

Thanks!
Ditto
Helped out perfectly
I from my own experience now would replace the special alum bolts (26)
@ $4 a pop as its a low torque of 7.4 but they snap like single use torque once type bolts to me. Or I'm just a monster with too heavya hand even w 1/4"
Setup
I got the stud out easily tho , fortunately I mean lol

Rock on !


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      09-24-2013, 04:08 PM   #56
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Looked under the hood today and found oil leaking all around the valve cover. Probs needs a new gasket.
Btw, I found a good DIY video for replacing the VCG on an N52 engine

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      10-11-2013, 12:04 AM   #57
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Spark plug guide sleeves

Do not leave them in the valve cover. They are meant to be pushed down in after you install the valve cover. This will keep most novice mechanics from bending them during reinstalation.
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      12-11-2013, 11:54 AM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Googie View Post
I had the valve cover gasket done back in March and it looks like its leaking again. Maybe they Torqued it too much and a bolt broke? It was good for a few months. Could there be something causing it to go bad? I am bringing it back to the indy shop so hopefully they can get it right this time and hopefully they don't try to charge me more $$
Hey what was the cause of it leaking again, mine looks like its leaking again as well
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      12-29-2013, 09:53 AM   #59
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Well.....I just finished this so I thought I would throw in my observations:
1. Thanks for the excellent DIY. I would not even have attempted to do this without the write-up.
2. My car is a 2008 335i with 115K miles on the clock. All of the plastic under the hood is very brittle. I broke several fitting even being very careful. Be prepared! I broke the PCV hose on the back of the manifold (replaced it with some reinforced rubber hose from the parts store. Had to cut the plastic hose off to make it work). I also broke the fitting where the two small vac. lines attach. I ended up repairing this one, cutting off the rubber lines with the cloth covers and replacing the lines with rubber hose from the parts store (5/32" vac. line). I also broke several clips (replaced those with zip ties).
3. My 10mm deep well socket would not go over the ground posts due to an inside "shoulder" in the socket. I put the socket on the drill press and opened it up slightly and then it worked fine.
4. Most of my leak appeared to be coming from the oil filter housing and the oil cooler adaptor. I replaced both of those gaskets while I was doing the valve cover.
5. I found it much easier to insert the spark plug guides after putting the valve cover back on.
6. My car purged the cooling system all by itself????? I did not have to hold the pedal down, it just started up on its own????
7. If you drain the cooling system by pulling that lower hose on the aluminum cooler like I did, you might see if the O-ring is available. Mine was dripping when I finished but seems to have sealed itself for now. You might have to get the entire hose so.......
8. It probably took at least 12 hours but that includes the oil filter mount and the oil cooler adaptor (get the two O-rings if you are taking the oil lines off). That also included repairing the things I broke.
9. I replaced the bolts but I can't see why that's necessary with such low torque.
10. When I started my car I got all kinds of errors about the brakes and traction control. The engine started but the throttle would not work and the engine revved up and down on its own. Turns out I left the clip off what I assume is the cam position sensor (right on the front of the head near the oil filter mount). Plugged it back in and all was well.
11. Saved $1500+ by doing this myself. It was a pain but it was well worth it in the end.
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      01-10-2014, 03:47 PM   #60
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For those using this guide for the E82/88 series it looks like the correct torque for the 26 valve cover bolts is 8.5nm which is between 6 and 6.5 lb/ft.

http://workshop-manuals.com/bmw/1_se...ad_with_cover/

No idea why it would be different torque to the 3 series... Same engine and all....
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      01-10-2014, 03:51 PM   #61
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Just don't break any !) bummers ville if they snap ...

Quote:
Originally Posted by htm99a View Post
For those using this guide for the E82/88 series it looks like the correct torque for the 26 valve cover bolts is 8.5nm which is between 6 and 6.5 lb/ft.

http://workshop-manuals.com/bmw/1_se...ad_with_cover/

No idea why it would be different torque to the 3 series... Same engine and all....
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      01-18-2014, 01:23 PM   #62
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Okay, I'm stuck. There is a step missing in the guide. I cannot for the life of me figure out how to remove the connector you see in step 14. Here is what I'm talking about:
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      01-18-2014, 01:42 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbarber0020
For anyone who did this, how long did it take start to finish... including putting everything back together?

Thanks!
It took me maybe 3 hours of careful work. Careful meaning cautious not to break or drop anything in to the motor. The plastics get brittle with age and heat - normal for these cars. Just
Use caution and plenty of light !
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      01-18-2014, 01:47 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tys90
Okay, I'm stuck. There is a step missing in the guide. I cannot for the life of me figure out how to remove the connector you see in step 14. Here is what I'm talking about:
Squeeze hard and pull apart firmly ?
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      01-18-2014, 03:26 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zundefolge View Post
Squeeze hard and pull apart firmly ?
I ended up taking it off at the other end of the connector and leaving the tube connected to the valve cover. Everything removed and working on cleaning it now.
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      01-18-2014, 03:39 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tys90
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zundefolge View Post
Squeeze hard and pull apart firmly ?
I ended up taking it off at the other end of the connector and leaving the tube connected to the valve cover. Everything removed and working on cleaning it now.
Cool
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