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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > BMW E90/E92/E93 3-series General Forums > Regional Forums > Australia > Valve cleaning / walnut blasting



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      05-25-2013, 07:00 PM   #1
Dan_335
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Valve cleaning / walnut blasting

Has anyone had this done in Sydney?

If you have who/where/how much?

Thanks

Dan
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      05-25-2013, 09:07 PM   #2
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I was reading about this as well.

Pete@Advan should be the go to man!!
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      05-26-2013, 02:21 AM   #3
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Pete the last time i spoke to him about it doesn't have a walnut blaster yet, he removed the gunk by using brushes.

Since it was such a labour intensive job he quoted round $650/$700 by memory.

Its a bit of a hassle for me to get to advan, and leave the car for the day so i was looking into buying a compressor blaster etc and attempting a diy, and possibly helping out a few guys on the forums with this for a fee (initial purchase price is over $1K for the equipment)

Bit of a discussion here regarding this:

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showt...=520227&page=2
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      08-31-2013, 04:30 AM   #4
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I have made some enquiries in Brisbane about walnut blasting without too much success. I thought Bayside Performance services may do it but they don't and don't know anyone who does. I then tried Brisbane BMW and the service guy had a discussion with some of his colleagues and came back with "Yes, we can get done but it will cost around $1,000.

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      08-31-2013, 06:44 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DR-JEKL View Post
Pete the last time i spoke to him about it doesn't have a walnut blaster yet, he removed the gunk by using brushes.

Since it was such a labour intensive job he quoted round $650/$700 by memory.

Its a bit of a hassle for me to get to advan, and leave the car for the day so i was looking into buying a compressor blaster etc and attempting a diy, and possibly helping out a few guys on the forums with this for a fee (initial purchase price is over $1K for the equipment)

Bit of a discussion here regarding this:

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showt...=520227&page=2
Done a heap now, the more you do the less hassle it becomes so price is now $500.00 inc GST forum members only
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      08-31-2013, 07:01 PM   #6
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Dan,

I did it on my own, and I wouldnt recommend it. $500 inc GST is ridiculously cheap. I'd be jumping all over this.

Paul
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      08-31-2013, 07:06 PM   #7
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Here's my post from last week.. I'm still amazed at the difference in driving.. even on a car with 44,000kms

Quote:
Originally Posted by me on 1 addicts
I did this myself yesterday... I opted to do it by hand, after assessing the cost of the stuff to get setup with the walnut method, and in actual fact most of the baked on grub in the howtos is removed with carbon cleaner OR by hand afterwards.

Your results may vary, my car is out of warranty - and I'm not prescribing the way I did it is either the best, or recommended i.e caveat emptor

First - the stuff I used.

  • From bunnings I got a wet/dry bucket vaccum looked like this:

    http://www.homedepot.com/p/Bucket-He...0100/202017218
    - you might need to extend the hose. as it makes life a little easier.

    - In addition you want to purchase some clear fuel line to act as an extension to the vacuum to get into the intake. Something like this (I got it from bunnings)
    http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Clear-5-1...-/150746914557

    - I put this into the end of the vac hose and covered the gap with my hand, whilst on i could modulate the suction by covering more or less of the gap. YMMV
    - Please be aware some threads are saying that this could turn the vac into a bomb, by sucking out the cleaning product. I took the risk, but I derisked it by not spraying and vacing at the same time, soaking up most of the liquid with a cloth first, and not running the vac for sustained periods of time.

  • From bunnings/supercheap/costco I got
    - some shop rags/cloth (note - thin tshirt like cloth is better than the big towel like material.)
    - some painter plastic/cloth tarps do cover the engine bay whilst the car was undergoing surgery.
    - some 3M Blue tape to cover the open valves whilst cleaning the others.
  • I made a remote starter rated at 15AMP+
    - 1M of dual core wire
    - 2 Allegator clips
    - 1 Momentary push button

  • I tried a couple of different cleaning products namely the two were the most effective. Obviously this stuff was only used for a short period of time on closed valves and was vacuumed out. Do not do what the instructions on the bottles say....
  • - Throttle body and cary cleaner by Nulon ($7.95 from Supercheap)(http://www.nulon.com.au/products/Aer.../#.UhlfTGTbo_8)
  • - The subaru upper engine cleaner ($20 from MRT in Rhodes) - This stuff is rocket fuel.
    - I recommend going for 4 cans of the Nulon stuff. You may not need that much, but I only have one car, and I aint putting the car back together mid way through to go get more.



Second - the reality
  • This isnt a walk in the park. It's a pain in the ar5e, time consuming and generally frustrating.
  • On reflection, what Pete/skycat is quoting at Advan is well worth the outlay. I've been in this situation before, when I installed by downpipes on my own.... and here I am again.
  • If you feel like a challenge, do it, if you think it'll be an easy few hours - you are wrong.



Third - some tips that helped me
  • Remove the car battery when you dont need to turn the motor. You are too close the starter motor and it is very easy to short shit.
  • The EVIL box attached the the manifold, after you remove the throttle body / and the manifold screws take the manifold off until you can reach the three torx (?) screws on the under side of it.
  • Turning the crank bolt was too bothersome for me, it was by far easier to do the remote starter method.
  • For the remote starter method to work, the KEY must be in the car, the battery must be reconnected... dont press the farken start/stop button though! 1/4 sec pushes are all you need. (For safety I removed the spark plugs and coils before i did this) and when you've moved it enough, go and take the battery off again
  • remember if your car is auto, and it's in park - you wont be able to move it until the car is back together (unless there is some secret method that I dont know about..)
  • The torque settings on the throttle body is NOT 15NM.


Fourth - the outcome
  • Car is MUCH smoother, ar5e dyno says power has definitely been gained. especially mid/low range
  • I'm no expert but it feels like 10-20Kw in my case..


Fifth - parting comments/thoughts
  • My car has 44k on it, been modified since low 30k. and there was pretty significant buildup - especially on the rear 3.
  • I had an issue with a coil, on cyl 5. Where the coil/sparkplug didnt have a good connection, creating arcing and misfires under WOT. Interestingly enough this was by far my worst cylinder.
  • An oil change/service is now in order, I will be taking my car my Advan friends to get this done hopefully this week.
  • Install an OCC at the same time as doing this...
  • This isnt a walk in the park. It's a pain in the ar5e.


oh and did I mention This isnt a walk in the park. It's a pain in the ar5e?
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      09-03-2013, 05:19 AM   #8
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Another good job to do at the same time is to replace the oil filter housing and thermostat housing rubber o/ring seals. allow an extra 30 minuets and about $65 in parts.
Well worth doing
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      09-03-2013, 06:55 PM   #9
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fantastic write up paul. I am hoping that the litres of meth i pour down the CP will clear any and ALL carbon
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      09-25-2013, 05:10 PM   #10
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Does anybody know who can do this in Adelaide? The dealer here is usele$$ and has taken 5 weeks to get an answer from them if they do walnut blasting.

My workshop has to take my intake off to fix a small oil leak and I am at 99k and keen to have it done while it's all exposed.

Reading all of this I am not fussed if it's walnut blasting or chem cleaning and don't have the downtime available to attempt myself.
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