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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Mechanical Maintenance: Break-in / Oil & Fluids / Servicing / Warranty > Bleeding brakes



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      09-16-2013, 11:17 PM   #1
tennis_pr0
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Bleeding brakes

Quick question and super dummy question I'm sure, but when you first start, you are suppose to get all the old fluid out of the master cylinder, right? Now they have said in some of the videos I've watched never to let the master cylinder go dry, but here they are saying drain out the old fluid with a turkey blaster then refill it with new fluid. What am I missing lol?
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      09-17-2013, 07:25 AM   #2
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Drain until the master is "almost" empty. Just enough liquid to cover the intake hole. Then refill with new fluid, bleed until new fluid comes out at the bottom, refill tank as needed meanwhile.
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      09-17-2013, 02:06 PM   #3
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i used a mityvac to just suck up all the old fluid from the master cylinder then filled it with new ATE fluid and attached my Motiv power bleeder to it. Then proceeded with doing each caliper starting from the furthest one to the closest. In total i think i went thru about a liter of ATE
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      09-18-2013, 06:14 AM   #4
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The post above is correct, but here is a bit more explanation. You don't have to remove any of the old fluid in the master cylinder, but it will then take three times as long to pump the old fluid though the system, so the best method is to remove the all of the old fluid from the reservoir and start with fresh fluid because it saves time.

You can remove all the old fluid from the reservoir at the start and refill with fresh fluid without any worry because there will be no air introduced to the system through the master cylinder if you don't pump the brakes (or draw fluid through a brake line) while the reservoir is empty (i.e. before you re-fill it with fresh fluid). Which is why the video says to not let the reservoir "run dry" during the bleeding process. As stated above, start the bleeding with the farthest wheel from the master cylinder (i.e. the right rear brake) and then move the next closest brake (the left rear brake) and so on. There are two long brake lines that feed both rear brakes. The lines then change to shorter hoses (one for each brake) at a junction near the differential on the left-side of the car, then go back to shorter hard lines before turning back into hoses that feed the calipers; the right brake line is a bit longer in total length than the left brake line. Drawing fluid from both rear brakes takes about the same about of fluid. So the best practice is to bleed the right rear first, make sure clear fluid is flowing from the right rear brake caliper then close the bleed screw. Then go and top off the master cylinder reservoir and start bleeding the left rear brake. Then top off the master cylinder and start with the fronts.

The front brake lines are a lot shorter than the rears, so not as much old fluid is trapped in them, but it is always good to top off the reservoir after each brake is bled.
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      09-18-2013, 07:07 AM   #5
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LV FLUID?

Is TYP200 OK or must I use LV FLUID??
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      09-18-2013, 10:16 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Efthreeoh View Post
The post above is correct, but here is a bit more explanation. You don't have to remove any of the old fluid in the master cylinder, but it will then take three times as long to pump the old fluid though the system, so the best method is to remove the all of the old fluid from the reservoir and start with fresh fluid because it saves time.

You can remove all the old fluid from the reservoir at the start and refill with fresh fluid without any worry because there will be no air introduced to the system through the master cylinder if you don't pump the brakes (or draw fluid through a brake line) while the reservoir is empty (i.e. before you re-fill it with fresh fluid). Which is why the video says to not let the reservoir "run dry" during the bleeding process. As stated above, start the bleeding with the farthest wheel from the master cylinder (i.e. the right rear brake) and then move the next closest brake (the left rear brake) and so on. There are two long brake lines that feed both rear brakes. The lines then change to shorter hoses (one for each brake) at a junction near the differential on the left-side of the car, then go back to shorter hard lines before turning back into hoses that feed the calipers; the right brake line is a bit longer in total length than the left brake line. Drawing fluid from both rear brakes takes about the same about of fluid. So the best practice is to bleed the right rear first, make sure clear fluid is flowing from the right rear brake caliper then close the bleed screw. Then go and top off the master cylinder reservoir and start bleeding the left rear brake. Then top off the master cylinder and start with the fronts.

The front brake lines are a lot shorter than the rears, so not as much old fluid is trapped in them, but it is always good to top off the reservoir after each brake is bled.
Cool man thanks. How often would you recommend doing this?
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      09-18-2013, 04:53 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tennis_pr0 View Post
Cool man thanks. How often would you recommend doing this?
Every two years per BMW maintenance requirements. The CBS will remind you. It should be every two years on the month your car was built.
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      09-26-2013, 12:34 PM   #8
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anyone knows what size wrench is needed?
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      10-05-2013, 01:03 PM   #9
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bump
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      10-05-2013, 01:12 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LittleBlue View Post
anyone knows what size wrench is needed?
10MM for the rears, and I think 12 MM for the fronts. If you have wrenches between 9MM and 13MM you'll have it covered. My advice is to hit the bleed valve with some PB blaster (or other penetrating oil) and let it soak a few minutes. Also use the box-end of the wrench to first break the torque on the valve to prevent stripping the bolt flats.
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      10-06-2013, 02:05 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Efthreeoh
Quote:
Originally Posted by LittleBlue View Post
anyone knows what size wrench is needed?
10MM for the rears, and I think 12 MM for the fronts. If you have wrenches between 9MM and 13MM you'll have it covered. My advice is to hit the bleed valve with some PB blaster (or other penetrating oil) and let it soak a few minutes. Also use the box-end of the wrench to first break the torque on the valve to prevent stripping the bolt flats.
thank you! but I think all are the same size. I did this a couple of years ago at a friend's garage and he had all the tools and I am pretty site we used one wrench for all 4 sides.
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      12-04-2013, 04:10 PM   #12
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finally did this a couple weeks back. needed 9 mm for the rears and 10mm for the fronts. I went through a couple of pints.
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      12-04-2013, 10:20 PM   #13
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what catch bottle kit do you folks use? I just started my first flush DIY with an auto parts store version and the tubing was a poor fit for the bleeder screws/nipples. got a little messy.
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      12-05-2013, 03:06 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mlifxs
what catch bottle kit do you folks use? I just started my first flush DIY with an auto parts store version and the tubing was a poor fit for the bleeder screws/nipples. got a little messy.
I had originally bought the one man bleeder kit but the tubing were too small. I just went to the hardware store and bought a 2 foot feet tube can't remember the exact size now and an empty two liter coke bottle and had the wife pump the brakes. The tube fit snugly on the bleeder nipples.
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