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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N54 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications - 335i > All COBB Tuning AccessPORT Flash for N54 335i Discussion Here



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      10-01-2013, 08:06 PM   #8273
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Originally Posted by Jeffman View Post
Thanks for your input. Jake@PTF is my tuner, too. I'm suspecting oxygen sensors, as well. Is there any reason why ethanol would f$&@-up an oxygen sensor? Dammit, there are four of them and each cost about $200, not including installation!
Oembimmerparts.com has them for $150 , but probably not o2 sensors...wait till you throw codes...our cars have complicated dme's could just be the car reacting to changes in the fuel mixture. If logs are good then I wouldn't worry.
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      10-01-2013, 08:11 PM   #8274
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Clem charges $250 for a DP install and you have to pull all four sensors for that. That's probably your cheapest option for install.
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      10-01-2013, 10:50 PM   #8275
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I just upgraded from a V2 to a V3 (because my V2 screen shat itself!) and since loading the V3, I get a yellow check engine light on startup and code: P2A18 - DMTL diagnosis module tank leakage, heating: input signal.

I was running a PTF map prior, however since my AP serial numbers don't match, I had to flash the 2+ agg map instead. The code didn't show prior to loading the V3.

Any thoughts?

Also, COBB: With unit measurements on the V3, is there a way to set temps as Celsius and boost at PSI?

Thanks!
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      10-04-2013, 10:26 AM   #8276
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Question

Is there anyway to run stage 2 maps without getting down pipes? I live in IL and I wouldn't pass emissions and my car is still under the BMW warranty for 2+ years. This month I plan on upgrading the car with a Dinan FMIC and Dinan Exhaust. anything else that will allow me to run the Stage 2 maps? I am CRAVING more power.

Thanks!
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      10-04-2013, 10:31 AM   #8277
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Originally Posted by buylongterm View Post
Question

Is there anyway to run stage 2 maps without getting down pipes? I live in IL and I wouldn't pass emissions and my car is still under the BMW warranty for 2+ years. This month I plan on upgrading the car with a Dinan FMIC and Dinan Exhaust. anything else that will allow me to run the Stage 2 maps? I am CRAVING more power.

Thanks!
In terms of off the shelf maps, just run stage 1+fmic once you get the FMIC. This is a very powerful map, moreso than stage 2. There's a big difference between stage 1 and stage 1+ in terms of boost and timing advance.

Other option would be to have PTF or the like make you a custom map for your car. This could be done either on a dyno or via an etune. This will maximize the power your car makes better than an OTS map, particularly if you have E85 at your disposal...

On another note, why the Dinan FMIC? There are much more cost-effective options on the market and while I have had dealers squawk about my downpipes they've never said anything about the ETS intercooler.
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      10-04-2013, 12:57 PM   #8278
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sickem View Post
In terms of off the shelf maps, just run stage 1+fmic once you get the FMIC. This is a very powerful map, moreso than stage 2. There's a big difference between stage 1 and stage 1+ in terms of boost and timing advance.

Other option would be to have PTF or the like make you a custom map for your car. This could be done either on a dyno or via an etune. This will maximize the power your car makes better than an OTS map, particularly if you have E85 at your disposal...

On another note, why the Dinan FMIC? There are much more cost-effective options on the market and while I have had dealers squawk about my downpipes they've never said anything about the ETS intercooler.
Thank you. The only reason I wanted to go with Dinan was to make sure I don't void my warranty whatsoever, but one would think a running a bigger intercooler is a good thing and most likely BMW service wouldn't VOID the warranty. (I would hope) I'll check into the ETA FMIC. So, my next upgrade should be the intercooler, instead of exhaust.

How much more gains (HP/Torque) should I expect between stage 1 aggressive and Stage 2 with FMIC? Will it definitely be more noticeable?

Much Appreciated!
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      10-04-2013, 04:34 PM   #8279
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Hmm, I guess that's possible, but I would expect it to get absorbed into the filter first. It could have just been the fact that the connections were loose and the track day shook everything around a bit. You can always log even without having the issue and I could look to see if the readings look off for AFR or MAP. If there's an intermittent signal drop I may be able to see it in a log without it actually triggering a limp mode or DTC. Of course you're right that the logs may look perfect until the issue happens again. Just let me know if I can help.

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I think I blew my DP gaskets got new gaskets coming in so might explain these codes.
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      10-04-2013, 06:15 PM   #8280
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Originally Posted by buylongterm
Quote:
Originally Posted by sickem View Post
In terms of off the shelf maps, just run stage 1+fmic once you get the FMIC. This is a very powerful map, moreso than stage 2. There's a big difference between stage 1 and stage 1+ in terms of boost and timing advance.

Other option would be to have PTF or the like make you a custom map for your car. This could be done either on a dyno or via an etune. This will maximize the power your car makes better than an OTS map, particularly if you have E85 at your disposal...

On another note, why the Dinan FMIC? There are much more cost-effective options on the market and while I have had dealers squawk about my downpipes they've never said anything about the ETS intercooler.
Thank you. The only reason I wanted to go with Dinan was to make sure I don't void my warranty whatsoever, but one would think a running a bigger intercooler is a good thing and most likely BMW service wouldn't VOID the warranty. (I would hope) I'll check into the ETA FMIC. So, my next upgrade should be the intercooler, instead of exhaust.

How much more gains (HP/Torque) should I expect between stage 1 aggressive and Stage 2 with FMIC? Will it definitely be more noticeable?

Much Appreciated!
You asked about stage 2, but do you really mean hp delta between stage 1 and stage 1+fmic? Stage 1+ is more powerful than stage 2 (no fmic). It is absolutely noticeable. Cobb has a dyno section of their site that can address that. I would absolutely (and did) do downpipes before a catback if you're looking for performance...you won't gain much power wise with an exhaust...just weight reduction and better sound.
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      10-05-2013, 11:00 PM   #8281
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http://www.datazap.me/u/135pats/e30-...d-4th?1-3-4-12

A 3rd and 4th gear log I pulled just now. Looks like i'm not quite meeting boost targets up top.
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      10-06-2013, 05:27 PM   #8282
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Hey Guys, anyone experience code P2C77: Lambda probe after catalytic converter, Signal. I am running Stg1+ Aggressive and have already changed to Bank 1 post 02 sensor with no luck. Any ideas? Plugs have about 5k on them and are NGKs. I also run 93 all the time. This is driving me crazy!
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      10-06-2013, 06:39 PM   #8283
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gemballa1980 View Post
I just upgraded from a V2 to a V3 (because my V2 screen shat itself!) and since loading the V3, I get a yellow check engine light on startup and code: P2A18 - DMTL diagnosis module tank leakage, heating: input signal.

I was running a PTF map prior, however since my AP serial numbers don't match, I had to flash the 2+ agg map instead. The code didn't show prior to loading the V3.

Any thoughts?
RESOLVED!

Ok, so because I sent my V2 away to COBB (broken screen) I wasn't able to unmarry it. When my V3 arrived I was advised everything from my V2 would be transferred to my V3. It wasn't. SO when I installed the V3, it overwrote the V2.

Since the V3 didn't have my original ROM to read from, it just installed a generic one. There lies the problem!

Since Aussie cars don't have the same emissions controls as the US cars, and I now had generic US ROM, it was looking for the DMTL which wasn't there (or a different value?).

After speaking with COBB (and believe it or not, I found the COBB guys here on the forum a hell of a lot more helpful than going through COBB Support on the website); they stepped me through flashing my original ROM (luckily still saved) from my PC. From there it was just a matter of flashing any map and hey presto - no more codes!

SO EVERYONE: Be sure to back-up your original ROMs from your PC.

And a big THANKS to 'COBB Tuning' on this board.
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      10-06-2013, 08:36 PM   #8284
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Quote:
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You asked about stage 2, but do you really mean hp delta between stage 1 and stage 1+fmic? Stage 1+ is more powerful than stage 2 (no fmic). It is absolutely noticeable. Cobb has a dyno section of their site that can address that. I would absolutely (and did) do downpipes before a catback if you're looking for performance...you won't gain much power wise with an exhaust...just weight reduction and better sound.
Oops. Your right. I meant stage 1+ FMIC.

Thanks. Any FMIC you could recommend? I talked to the service manager at dealership yesterday and he said don't worry about getting Dinan. A FMIC shouldn't void my warranty.
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      10-06-2013, 09:27 PM   #8285
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buylongterm
Quote:
Originally Posted by sickem View Post
You asked about stage 2, but do you really mean hp delta between stage 1 and stage 1+fmic? Stage 1+ is more powerful than stage 2 (no fmic). It is absolutely noticeable. Cobb has a dyno section of their site that can address that. I would absolutely (and did) do downpipes before a catback if you're looking for performance...you won't gain much power wise with an exhaust...just weight reduction and better sound.
Oops. Your right. I meant stage 1+ FMIC.

Thanks. Any FMIC you could recommend? I talked to the service manager at dealership yesterday and he said don't worry about getting Dinan. A FMIC shouldn't void my warranty.
There are several good brands out there, and dozens of threads on the subject. Really comes down to a 5 or 7" unit, the former being sufficient for most applications. ETS, helix, vrsf, ER, AMS, Cobb, AA all make great offerings.
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      10-07-2013, 12:06 PM   #8286
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There are several good brands out there, and dozens of threads on the subject. Really comes down to a 5 or 7" unit, the former being sufficient for most applications. ETS, helix, vrsf, ER, AMS, Cobb, AA all make great offerings.
I'm going to go with Helix. I'll be buying it at the end of the week. (can't wait)

What are the HP/torque gains running Stage 1+ with FMIC?
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      10-07-2013, 12:27 PM   #8287
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I'm going to go with Helix. I'll be buying it at the end of the week. (can't wait)

What are the HP/torque gains running Stage 1+ with FMIC?
Too many variables to really give you a firm number, but lets say Stg1+ agg on a dynojet is good for something around 350WHP.
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      10-07-2013, 12:31 PM   #8288
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Quote:
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I'm going to go with Helix. I'll be buying it at the end of the week. (can't wait)

What are the HP/torque gains running Stage 1+ with FMIC?
Taking a quick peek at the COBB database, you get ~80whp/100wtq over stage 0. stage1+ is very close to stage 2+ power levels.

Let me know if you need help with Fmics. We carry all brands and offer great prices
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      10-07-2013, 01:39 PM   #8289
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135Pats & Marc,

Thanks for the response.

What always confuses me is WHP vs HP and why we don't just use one way to measure TRUE power. Does it simply come down to marketing?

I'm assuming that when BMW claims the car is 300HP "stock", obviously that's not WHP. What is the stock WHP on a 335xi? 240?

If Stage 1+ aggressive w/FMIC is roughly 350WHP, what WHP am I currently at with Stage 1 aggressive?

Last stupid question. does HP typically equate to a specific WHP in terms of #'s? For example. 100hp =?WHP?


Appreciate all the responses.
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      10-07-2013, 01:46 PM   #8290
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You're conflating crank and wheel horsepower. The crank figure is never what actually is put to the wheels due to drivetrain loss. So the quoted 300 HP from BMW is a crank HP figure. A bone stock N54 puts down more like 260-280 to the wheels dynojet.
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      10-07-2013, 02:37 PM   #8291
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Originally Posted by buylongterm View Post
135Pats & Marc,

Thanks for the response.

What always confuses me is WHP vs HP and why we don't just use one way to measure TRUE power. Does it simply come down to marketing?

I'm assuming that when BMW claims the car is 300HP "stock", obviously that's not WHP. What is the stock WHP on a 335xi? 240?

If Stage 1+ aggressive w/FMIC is roughly 350WHP, what WHP am I currently at with Stage 1 aggressive?

Last stupid question. does HP typically equate to a specific WHP in terms of #'s? For example. 100hp =?WHP?


Appreciate all the responses.
What 135pats said. Also it is my understanding that RWD cars suffer from less drivetrain loss than our AWD brethren...so an xi car will probably put down less overall whp. I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong here.
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      10-07-2013, 03:35 PM   #8292
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I got the fuelpump code, P2aaf, and as a consequence ( I think) I got the P29dc, cylinder switch-off, a while ago on COBB Stg1 Sport. I took the car to an authorized repair shop that I trust and the found that the applicable solution to the exact problem I experienced was to upgrade the car's software (has never been updated).

If this solution is the answer to this problem, would I benefit from this upgrade even when I flash with COBB again? Or am I most likely to go back and ask them "please upgrade/change my fuel pump because I run a tune and need a new one"?

What do you guys think?
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      10-17-2013, 02:24 AM   #8293
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3rd gear pull.

http://www.datazap.me/u/gemballa1980...-log?3-4-14-17

Can someone please take a look for me? My timings seem to be all over the shop.

Also, should I be logging anything else? I'm just using factory V3 logs at the moment.

Thanks!
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      10-17-2013, 06:52 AM   #8294
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You are getting some minor timing corrections on a few cylinders. After logging, did you do a few WOT pulls to give it time to adapt?
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