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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > NA Engine (non-turbo) / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications > 06 325i E90 - Service Engine Soon + Rough RPM + MPG Needle



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      10-27-2013, 02:56 PM   #1
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06 325i E90 - Service Engine Soon + Rough RPM + MPG Needle

Greetings,

I have a 2006 325i E90 4DR Sedan. It currently has 121,000 miles and I'm having a few difficulties. The service engine soon is on. When the car is idling at red lights or stop signs, the RPM jumps to 1000 and then drops back to 500. It does this ever time I come to a complete stop. Also lately I'm noticing that my MPG needle is acting strange. When my foot is not on the gas pedal, the Needle is reading wrong at 12MPG. It then corrects it self after multiple seconds and sometimes it never corrects it self. The needle is very jumpy and I've noticed my actual fuel consumption has gone up giving me a lower tank use. I used to put in Premium Gas from Costco inside my car. I read that the quality is low and have since change to V-Power from shell. I'm currently on my 3rd full tank and the problem is still there.

Researching some threads, I've came to conclusion that the following could be an issue (Coils, Plugs, Injectors, 02 Sensor, alongside HPFP). Would anything else effect this behavior for a car with 120k miles? Going toward the winter season, I'd like to fix this issue as this is my primary vehicle for work.
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      10-27-2013, 03:05 PM   #2
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Your car doesn't have an HPFP so you can rule that it. It does have a regular fuel pump which could be the culprit but you'd be getting an SES light. Get your car scanned just in case. I'm gonna venture to say it's probably not a sensor because those would cause an SES light. Then again the eccentric shaft sensor won't always throw a code right away and will show the exact same symtoms. That's an easy one to check though. Unplug it and see if it's covered in oil.
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      10-27-2013, 03:17 PM   #3
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Scan at autozone for free. Im guessing at those miles buy 6 spark plugs and 6 coil packs. Your misfring and probably on one cylinder. Easy fix you can DIY. Should be 200ish for the listed parts and will last another 100k.
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      10-27-2013, 04:15 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e90pilot View Post
Your car doesn't have an HPFP so you can rule that it. It does have a regular fuel pump which could be the culprit but you'd be getting an SES light. Get your car scanned just in case. I'm gonna venture to say it's probably not a sensor because those would cause an SES light. Then again the eccentric shaft sensor won't always throw a code right away and will show the exact same symtoms. That's an easy one to check though. Unplug it and see if it's covered in oil.
This picture is from a few days ago. What should I unplug?



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Originally Posted by ihsanshaik View Post
Scan at autozone for free. Im guessing at those miles buy 6 spark plugs and 6 coil packs. Your misfring and probably on one cylinder. Easy fix you can DIY. Should be 200ish for the listed parts and will last another 100k.
My thoughts were that AutoZone scanners did not work for BMWs? I also changed in my battery around 6 months ago. Do you know how much it would be to install it professionally? I don't have any tools and I work 70HRs a week.
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      10-27-2013, 07:09 PM   #5
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Culprits:
Eccentric shaft sensor
Vanos solenoids
Maf Sensor
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      10-27-2013, 07:21 PM   #6
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If you're short on time you can always get. Bavarian technic tool. It reads all the BMW codes. You just need a laptop. As far as unplugging the sensor, have a shop do it. I'm not too sure where it is. There is probably a DIY somewhere on the forum.
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      10-27-2013, 07:29 PM   #7
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They give generic codes and I have one i bought for like 20.00. I diagnose and fix many of my families bmws. For example the other day my e90 misfired just like yours. Plugged it in and misfire cylinder 5. I have warranty still so I let them take care of it and guess what coil pack bad on cylinder 5 like it said. I mean its very helpful in diagnosing everything but a BMW specific one is much better. I use it on JAP cars as well it works on any car after 95
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      10-27-2013, 08:37 PM   #8
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I'll do the scan tomorrow after work at AutoZone. I know I'll probably have to spend $500+ to fix the issue, I just rather spend it on a big ticket item than do a few smaller items.
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      10-27-2013, 10:41 PM   #9
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It could be just as simple as a bad coil. If it is, you can take care of that over lunch.
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      10-28-2013, 08:33 AM   #10
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Okay, so let's set this all straight.

First, all cars starting with the 1996 model year (some 1995 cars are OBD II) use a standard diagnosis protocol called OBD II (or OBD 2). It is a standard mandated starting in 1996 by the US Federal Government so that any autoshop can scan the car and read the standardized trouble codes that indicate something is wrong with the operation of the emissions system. If the SES light is illuminated, there is a OBD II trouble code present in the engine control unit (ECU), which can be read by any OBD II scan tool ($45 at most parts stores). If you own a modern car you should own a OBD II scan tool; even the most expensive ones pay for them selves with one use. So buy the OBD II scan tool and scan the car to see what code(s) are present. There are several websites dedicated to OBD II and explain the trouble codes (there are hundreds of them). OBD II only monitors the function of the emission system and nothing else, so if there is something wrong with the engine that affects the exhaust emissions the light will illuminate. A spark misfire (by a bad coil or fuel injector) is one type of issue that affects emissions, a bad O2 sensor is another.

A BMW scan tool will also scan the car and provide you the BMW-specific code (known as "Manufacturer-specific" trouble codes) for emission system problems that converts to a OBD II trouble code. The Bentley service manual has the conversion tables. A BMW scan tool is useful because it will read codes that are not the standard OBD II codes (one such example is "2E81" for slow water pump operation). Manufacturer-specific scan tools (such as the BT scan tool) read all trouble codes present in the cars computer modules, both OBD II and manufacturer-specific codes.

The eccentric shaft issue discussed here is a common problem where the oil seal around the electrical connector fails and contaminates the sensor that controls operation of the shaft. The eccentric shaft is part of the valvetrain located under the valve cover; it controls the operation of the Valvetronic system, which affects engine idle. There is a DIY in the DIY section about it. To inspect the connector to see if it has been contaminated, to need to get access to it, which means pulling the cabin airfilter housing and engine cover. The connector is on the valve cover near the front of the engine.

Your instantaneous MPG gauge is indicating that the engine is opening the "throttle" wide open to prevent the engine from stalling at idle. It could be the eccentric shaft (although it is common to have cold-start issues with a bad eccentric shaft sensor). I put quotes around "throttle" because the N52 doesn't really have one, the engine idle is controlled by the Valvetronic system, which replaces the function of the throttle. Your issue could also be related to a vacuum leak instead. The engine computer tries to keep the engine at a constant idle. If the engine has a vacuum leak it can prevent the engine for idling properly and engine computer (ECU) will adjust the throttle (function) to maintain idle. One way to check for a vacuum leak issue is to open the oil fill cap while the engine is running and see if the engine changes speed. If it does, it usually means there is no vacuum leak; if the engine speed doesn't change or changes a little it could mean there is a constant vacuum leak and the ECU is compensating for it.

Also, letting you car run down to 12 miles left is not good. Repeated behavior like that can prematurely wear out or damage the fuel pump.
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      10-28-2013, 09:25 AM   #11
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Actually the throttle works just like any other throttle. I don't know why BMW put out a bunch of white papers that say engine speed is solely controlled by valve lift. It's just not true. The engine can idle with the throttle wide open but it doesn't. There is a video floating around here that shows the engine running with no intake manifold. There is also another video of an N52 at idle and the throttle valve behaving like any other car. Even when driving if you pull up throttle blade angle in a data logger, it increases and decreases with pedal position. The valvetronic angle also move with pedal position. In wondering if it's acting as a backup in case valvetronic fails.
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      10-28-2013, 09:04 PM   #12
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To be honest, all of this happened after I got an oil change at a 3rd party place rather than the dealership. At first, they hadn't tightened the oil cap perfectly, and after a few days I had to take it back and have them seal it tight. Since then, the car has been acting up this way. The oil filter is also from 3rd party company alongside the washers etc... that comes in the oil filter. I was exhausted, and didn't get a chance to take the car to AutoZone. In the morning I didn't have the light. However it came back at night on my drive home. So so far, I'm seeing a lot of votes for:

Bad Coils
eccentric shaft
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      10-28-2013, 09:06 PM   #13
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I had the rpm problem on my car where they would jump, especially on cold starts. The rpms would jump and the car would shake. I replaced my vanos solenoids and the problem went away for me. I usually noticed the rpms fluctuating when I started the car or when I came to a stop. After I was stopped for a moment, and then I started to accelerate, my car had like a hiccup around the 1,800-2,000 rpm range. It was the most aggravating thing, but luckily since I replaced the vanos solenoids I've been problem free.
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      10-28-2013, 10:55 PM   #14
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Get the car scanned first before you buy anything. Also a bad oil cap or bad seal in the oil system you do the same thing.
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      10-29-2013, 08:40 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M3-ADDICT View Post
To be honest, all of this happened after I got an oil change at a 3rd party place rather than the dealership. At first, they hadn't tightened the oil cap perfectly, and after a few days I had to take it back and have them seal it tight. Since then, the car has been acting up this way. The oil filter is also from 3rd party company alongside the washers etc... that comes in the oil filter. I was exhausted, and didn't get a chance to take the car to AutoZone. In the morning I didn't have the light. However it came back at night on my drive home. So so far, I'm seeing a lot of votes for:

Bad Coils
eccentric shaft
The fact that you say this all started after an oil change makes me think this could be more to do with the Vanos Solenoids as already mentioned - these engines are very critical when it comes to oil pressure and condition. This is why I change oil every 10k km which for me is once a year, and not the normal 25k km or 2 years!

As long as the oil filter and O-rings/washers are good quality it should be fine, and I gather they used the correct spec oil and the correct amount. I would clean those Vanos Solenoids and swap them around when replacing - it's a really easy DIY (search this forum for the thread). If the problem continues then yes, I would also look at the eccentric shaft sensor, coils and plugs would be next. In fact, with the mileage of your car, the plugs would have mostly likely been replaced quite recently since it is usually done every 100k km (60k miles). I would also just for good measure clean the MAF with a good quality MAF cleaner.
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      11-01-2013, 08:53 PM   #16
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Hello gentleman,

My gasoline consumption has gotten worse. I used to get 330miles per tank, however at the current moment I'm at 280 miles and the light has come on. Tonight I stopped by Advanced Auto Part and got the car scanned. Their OBDI reader was rather interesting and displayed 12 items. Below I've outlined all the codes that came on the OBDI reader. I also tried erasing the codes, but that did not work. I took a video for your viewing pleasure for easy of use. Please let me know your thoughts.

The codes displayed:

1. P0012
2. P1554
3. MIL ON
4. MONITORS
5. 0 INC
6. MISFIRE
7. FUEL
8. COMP
9. CATLYST
10. EVAP
11. O2 SENSOR
12. 02 HTR

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      11-01-2013, 11:13 PM   #17
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You have a misfire. Stop driving your car immediately. You can damage you cats which are very expensive. P0012 is an intake vanos position error. P1554 is sticky vanos. It's an easy fix. First you clean and swap the intake and exhaust vanos solenoids and see if the issue follows the solenoid or goes alway. If it follows the solenoid then replace it. Now it didn't list any other codes but it says "misfire" "evap" "fuel" and "O2 sensor." It's not telling you which cylinder is misfiring or which o2 sensor is problematic. Look in the manual and see if those are actually errors.
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      11-02-2013, 06:56 AM   #18
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In the order of Important, can you suggest which I should get done first? I have no tools, or the know how of doing this. I have to take this vehicle to a Mechanic and present him with a list of things to do. Let me know what I should do please.
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      11-04-2013, 09:10 AM   #19
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When you take the car in, get the car scanned again to confirm the errors. Then have the vanos issue fixed. Clean the problematic unit then swap it with the good unit. If the error returns replace the bad unit. As for the other issues you'll need to check the manual of that scanner. The other errors could be caused by the vanos malfunction. After you resolve the vanos issue, then clear the errors and rescan the car to see what errors are still present.
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      11-04-2013, 09:57 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e90pilot View Post
When you take the car in, get the car scanned again to confirm the errors. Then have the vanos issue fixed. Clean the problematic unit then swap it with the good unit. If the error returns replace the bad unit. As for the other issues you'll need to check the manual of that scanner. The other errors could be caused by the vanos malfunction. After you resolve the vanos issue, then clear the errors and rescan the car to see what errors are still present.
So you think it's the Vanos problem? Is there a DIY I can show my mechanic on this issue so he knows what needs to be fixed / replaced. I also read that I should sea foam the engine. Is that a good idea?
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      11-09-2013, 01:15 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e90pilot View Post
You have a misfire. Stop driving your car immediately. You can damage you cats which are very expensive. P0012 is an intake vanos position error. P1554 is sticky vanos. It's an easy fix. First you clean and swap the intake and exhaust vanos solenoids and see if the issue follows the solenoid or goes alway. If it follows the solenoid then replace it. Now it didn't list any other codes but it says "misfire" "evap" "fuel" and "O2 sensor." It's not telling you which cylinder is misfiring or which o2 sensor is problematic. Look in the manual and see if those are actually errors.
On the E46 DME the car will cut fuel to a misfiring cylinder to protect the cats, and that was in the late 90s.
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      11-10-2013, 06:18 PM   #22
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Quote:
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On the E46 DME the car will cut fuel to a misfiring cylinder to protect the cats, and that was in the late 90s.
That's an emergency feature and it's really for getting your car off the road. If you have and intermittent or slight misfire, that feature won't protect you at all. I've been told by numerous industry professionals who work with cars of various vintages that all say emphatically not to drive with a misfire because of resulting damage not only to the cats but to the rest of the engine. Oh and my E90 did not shut down a cylinder when one of my coils failed completely.
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