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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > DIY Guides > DIY M3/OEM Upper & Lower Control Arms



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      11-10-2013, 01:25 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris98m3 View Post
I just installed my control arms without lifting the hub to tighten the bolts. Now its all out of wack what bolts should I tighten
Food you get a alignment after install?
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      12-05-2013, 07:42 PM   #46
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Thanks for the great write up. I am thinking of DIY these as it doesn’t look too hard. The only question I have is related to alignment. After installing the arms does it have more toe in or more toe out? I am guessing toe in given the knuckle was moved further out and the tie rod length stayed the same, but I am not sure. Any idea of a rough amount to adjust the rods so I can drive it to the shop from my place? It’s about 10 miles. I assume that if I lengthen or shorten each rod the same amount of turns after install the car should be driveable.
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      01-19-2014, 09:53 AM   #47
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Just finished the install and it was slightly challenging. My car has 91K so the bolts were REALLY on there. Used some WD-40 and air tools and finally came off.

During my install I DID NOT drop the steering the rack, I saw no need at the beginning. There is one bolt that the boot is in the way but it does come out. If anyone else has insight on the steering rack drop please chime in. I am not mechanic and always looking to learn.

One thing I did notice is that the original leveling rod snapped onto the old lower control arm. The new one you need a bolt on both ends and the car only had 1 bolt so I had to run out and get one. Just a tip!

I did the M3 controls arms and Meyle HD outer tie rods. Next step is the alignment.

Thanks for this great DIY!

Last edited by e70msportmia; 01-19-2014 at 02:46 PM.
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      02-09-2014, 10:48 AM   #48
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Excellent write up Rob,

Is this for an E92 or E93 335? I have an '08 E93 with 70,000km (I'm the original owner).

I want to fix the way the car jumps to the side when going over bumps at speed as well as the terrible rebound the car has always had.

Is it safe to assume that the M3 parts from an E93 M3 are what I'm looking for. As for the springs & shocks (maybe coil overs) I'm still not sure what to do there. I don't want to break the bank on the well needed upgrade. I'm not interested in dropping the car and this car doesn't go to the track anymore.

In closing the e93 M parts I need to get would be as follows:
Upper & lower control arms
Sway bar
Strut brace (maybe)

Thanks for your advise.
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      03-09-2014, 12:49 PM   #49
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Completed this install and without dropping the steering rack, but now I have an issue where when I turn the steering full lock in either direction I hear a sort of popping sound. And instead of the steering trying to return back to center it try to turn in the direction the the wheels are facing most. Intermittent popping while going straight also. Any ideas what could be causing this? I have a camber plate at the top of the shocks I tried to zero them out at it got worse. Putting it back to max new camber today to see what happens. Any help would be appreciated
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      03-17-2014, 08:08 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BX TT3 View Post
Completed this install and without dropping the steering rack, but now I have an issue where when I turn the steering full lock in either direction I hear a sort of popping sound. And instead of the steering trying to return back to center it try to turn in the direction the the wheels are facing most. Intermittent popping while going straight also. Any ideas what could be causing this? I have a camber plate at the top of the shocks I tried to zero them out at it got worse. Putting it back to max new camber today to see what happens. Any help would be appreciated
Need alignment.. It's out of whack.
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      04-07-2014, 07:59 PM   #51
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how do you remove the control arm nut with the brake shield in the way?
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      05-18-2014, 03:12 PM   #52
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My thanks go to the OP!!! I installed this upgrade, yesterday, 330i E90 with 93k miles, including the Mayle HD sway bar links (ends). I did not replace the tie rods, no need at this time. I'm still due for an alignment on Monday and wanted to reach out to OP or anyone who had done it:

- Do I need to specify of the upgrade to the alignment tech?
- Does the alignment tech loosen up/tighten up the same bolts in order to have the vehicle aligned?

Thoughts to share: I did not loosen up the steering rack, bolts in the way of the tie rod boot were not that difficult to remove, and dropping the wheel (rotor) 18.7 inches from the wheel well (see OP's photo) did not make much difference in my case. Impact gun was a GODSENT, if you don't use one you're in for a challenge. I was so excited about this upgrade (and adrenalin pumped) that I replaced some additional overdue items like windshield washer pump, spark plugs, cabin filter, fuel filter, and air filter. I agree with OP that this is an absolute must upgrade for your investment. OP thank you again.

Last edited by branmace; 05-18-2014 at 03:19 PM.
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      05-18-2014, 03:18 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by parabmw View Post
how do you remove the control arm nut with the brake shield in the way?
I see this is late...did you end up using 5"or 6" extension ratchet?
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      05-18-2014, 04:18 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by branmace View Post
My thanks go to the OP!!! I installed this upgrade, yesterday, 330i E90 with 93k miles, including the Mayle HD sway bar links (ends). I did not replace the tie rods, no need at this time. I'm still due for an alignment on Monday and wanted to reach out to OP or anyone who had done it:

- Do I need to specify of the upgrade to the alignment tech?
- Does the alignment tech loosen up/tighten up the same bolts in order to have the vehicle aligned?

Thoughts to share: I did not loosen up the steering rack, bolts in the way of the tie rod boot were not that difficult to remove, and dropping the wheel (rotor) 18.7 inches from the wheel well (see OP's photo) did not make much difference in my case. Impact gun was a GODSENT, if you don't use one you're in for a challenge. I was so excited about this upgrade (and adrenalin pumped) that I replaced some additional overdue items like windshield washer pump, spark plugs, cabin filter, fuel filter, and air filter. I agree with OP that this is an absolute must upgrade for your investment. OP thank you again.
Your very welcome! The only reason for the 18.7" ride height adjustment is so the bushings are not tighten at wrong height and wear out.
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      06-07-2014, 11:28 AM   #55
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Excellent post. Thanks for the write up. I installed mine last night. Getting an alignment right way. Drives a lot different even with out an alignment.
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      06-22-2014, 05:15 PM   #56
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Will this work on xi?
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      06-26-2014, 04:52 PM   #57
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Anyone? Can someone give me link to xi parts?
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      07-08-2014, 02:59 PM   #58
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Just installed a set of M3 front control alarms and I used Robs DIY as a guide. However I did not remove or lower the steering rack and there was more than enough room to remove the arms. Also you need an 18mm wrench and socket for the bolts at the subframe.

I did also run into an issue where I popped the green "circlip" off the rubber boot on the lower tension rod on the subframe side. I could not get it back on without displacing the boot from the groove. I took it to a shop where a mechanic ingeniously cut the clip in half and used a 300 degree section of the clip to hold the rubber boot in place. I felt it had more than enough tension to stay in place and keep the rubber boot seated as well.

trW should have made that bushing solid like the oem. Not sure why they chose a grease filled application.
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      07-08-2014, 03:40 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hierlevelz View Post
Just installed a set of M3 front control alarms and I used Robs DIY as a guide. However I did not remove or lower the steering rack and there was more than enough room to remove the arms. Also you need an 18mm wrench and socket for the bolts at the subframe.

I did also run into an issue where I popped the green "circlip" off the rubber boot on the lower tension rod on the subframe side. I could not get it back on without displacing the boot from the groove. I took it to a shop where a mechanic ingeniously cut the clip in half and used a 300 degree section of the clip to hold the rubber boot in place. I felt it had more than enough tension to stay in place and keep the rubber boot seated as well.

trW should have made that bushing solid like the oem. Not sure why they chose a grease filled application.
OEM M3 and are the same way.TRW are "M" Posts with logo shaved off. I agree though, it happened to my buddies also.
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      07-08-2014, 05:40 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by parabmw View Post
how do you remove the control arm nut with the brake shield in the way?
I used an impact with a deep socket and 4" extension from the top down.
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      07-08-2014, 05:41 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robc1976 View Post
OEM M3 and are the same way.TRW are "M" Posts with logo shaved off. I agree though, it happened to my buddies also.
I mean oem as in original 335 I arms.
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      07-08-2014, 05:57 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hierlevelz View Post
I mean oem as in original 335 I arms.
I see
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      08-01-2014, 09:56 AM   #63
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Thanks for the guide! I'll be using it this weekend

However, one question. I see folks stating the use of the impact gun is helpful. I have one, but not sure which of the bolts you think it's most needed for, so I know which impact sockets to pick up? I'm assuming the 21mm, but what about the 18, 17, and 13?
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      08-11-2014, 02:28 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MadToy View Post
Thanks for the guide! I'll be using it this weekend

However, one question. I see folks stating the use of the impact gun is helpful. I have one, but not sure which of the bolts you think it's most needed for, so I know which impact sockets to pick up? I'm assuming the 21mm, but what about the 18, 17, and 13?
Really just need it for the nuts on the knuckle, which are 21MM. You will need an extension for the rear most nut, which if I recall correctly is the LCA. The bolts/nuts at the subframe are only torqued to 74 lbs/ft so a breaker bar easily removes them. I just did this job this past weekend. +1 for slopping some antisieze on the LCA/subframe for reinstall, using a file, and I even used a rubber mallet to tap it in and line it up.

My alignment specs (I have not pulled my pins):
Front
Left Camber: -1.3
Left Toe: 0.13
Right Camber: -1.2
Right Toe: 0.13

Rear
Left Camber: -1.8
Left Toe: 0.13
Right Camber: -1.7
Right Toe: 0.19

Great right up Rob!
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      08-12-2014, 07:20 AM   #65
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Thanks. I did the swap last weekend. Very simple. Autocrossing this weekend, so I'll see how different it feels....
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      08-19-2014, 12:15 PM   #66
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Very good write up!
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I am just here to help!
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