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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > DIY Guides > Replaced my brake pads in my 335!



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      11-17-2013, 12:48 AM   #177
Lifted07Duramax
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      03-29-2014, 03:17 PM   #178
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Good thread. If I could offer a few suggestions since I just did my fronts with a set of hawk pads and cryo centric rotors from tirerack (which are still free shipping actually and so are hawk pads )

EDIT currently Tirerack is offering no shipping cost for ALL brake parts.

The best way to get the front rotors loose from the hubs (in addition to putting on some kind of nut release penetrating oil) is to put two long 3/8" extensions in the vent holes and work around one side then the other until it pops off.

Also, I would suggest putting in the outside pad first and then the inside pad into the piston. By putting the outside (sorry corrected) pad in the caliper guide, it will help stablize the caliper and caliper bracket when you are trying to put in the inside pad. If you do it the traditional way of inside pad first, it will be much more likely to slip out when you are sliding the caliper bracket forward to put in the front pad. I wrestled with the inside pad for an hour and never could get the outside to line up when i tried it after getting the inside pad in. The other way is just 5 mins.
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Last edited by 335e92tx; 04-02-2014 at 12:13 PM.
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      08-29-2015, 06:56 PM   #179
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Nice, i will be using this. Thank you!
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      05-17-2016, 06:44 PM   #180
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I found that this task is pretty hard but I didn't use cable ties.
After messing with it for an hour I found that if you put your foot against the bottom tab, hold the top tab with one hand and use a thin, flat blade screwdriver by inserting it through the hole in the spring and catching the top of the pad (in the divot) you can get good leverage to catch the edge for the center tab. Once you catch the edge with the center tab, just give it a pop and she's in.
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      05-17-2016, 06:55 PM   #181
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Driver's side Front took me 2 hours, ended up separating the carrier and caliper to get the pads in. Spring took me over and hour alone.
Passenger Side front took me 45 mins and that included jacking the car up and removing the tire.
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      05-20-2016, 01:25 PM   #182
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Very good guide. I always find the hardest part is getting the old rotors off. It's like no matter how much antiseize you use, they still stick the next time you change them.
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      01-02-2017, 10:41 PM   #183
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Mr. 5,
My question is after the pads are replaced on our 325i and have been driven for approximately 2 weeks, my wife noticed warning lights (car on a lift) and "Brakes need to be replaced" message. Does this mean one or both of the brake sensors have come loose? Also, where exactly do the sensors plug in? I looked when I replaced the pads, but could not find the plug. On our previous 525, I never had a problem replacing the sensors.

P.S. Great write up regarding pad replacement.

Thanks
Shauser
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      04-05-2017, 03:37 PM   #184
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shauser View Post
Mr. 5,
My question is after the pads are replaced on our 325i and have been driven for approximately 2 weeks, my wife noticed warning lights (car on a lift) and "Brakes need to be replaced" message. Does this mean one or both of the brake sensors have come loose? Also, where exactly do the sensors plug in? I looked when I replaced the pads, but could not find the plug. On our previous 525, I never had a problem replacing the sensors.

P.S. Great write up regarding pad replacement.

Thanks
Shauser
I had the same lift light with brake errors. I dug in to the errors. It showed front and rear brakes. Both had been recently replaced, by the PO and I had just flushed the brake fluid with Pentosin DOT 4 and inspected the pads. All was good. So I tried a reset, to no avail. So I knew the sensors were worn. I've ordered new sensors, but I don't want my wife to freak out if she sees the warning lights, so I simply clipped the sensors and wired the two wires together.

You can do the front sensor with the wheel on the car.
I have a 335i Cabrio, and it was lowered by the PO. If I steer the tire hard left, there is enough clearance to reach the caliper. Just feel around for the wire coming out of the outer edge mid section of the front caliper on the driver side. Give it a meaningful tug. It will snap out. Clip the sensor head off. There will be two wires inside. I think they are red and yellow on the front. Seems like they were blue and black on the rear, but I don't remember for sure. I did it yesterday.
Anyway, strip both wires, and twist them together, use a little wire nut (these are very thin wires, probably 24 gauge or smaller) and some tape. You are all set.
Now get in your car and shut the door (windows down)
Key in the ignition
wait until all the lights and dinging stop
Press the BC one time so that the time and date are displayed (evidently this step is critical, according to youtube videos)
press and hold the odo button until the triangle appears, and then the brake error displays.
Mine displayed the front brakes (indicated by a front of the car with brake symbol)
hold the BC until the little clock starts, and complete its cycle.
you are done with the front. Sometimes the miles will reset to 12,000, sometimes 00000. Mine did 00000 on the front, and 12,000 on the rear.
I still had the brake error light.
So I cycled off
cycled on again
Cycled off
and then started the car.
I had to do the process for front and rear (both shorting the wires, and the reset)
My car is now error free.
Please note, I have both sensors ordered. I will have to remove the wheels to replace the sensors.
If you elect to run "old school" (sensor-less) check your pads every 6 months or 6,000 miles.
Meanwhile, I am enjoying error free driving.

Sadly, since the car is not four wheel steering, You do have to jack the rear of the car up to do the back. I was able to reach my sensor with out removing the wheel, but my wheel was fully dropped by jacking the center point in the rear. YMMV
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