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xxxjecxxx's Avatar repaclace window regulator
xxxjecxxx
06-04-2010
My window regulator broke and I could not find a DIY. It is not very difficult to replace and you don't need any special tools. This is my first DIY so excuse any mistakes. Follow at your own risk. I am no pro and this is only to be used as a guide.You should read all of it before you start....
  #66  
By Tony v on 07-28-2013, 02:16 AM
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need some help just replaced the regulator and i tried the 10 hold to sync window with no luck is theres other ways? thanks
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  #67  
By xxxjecxxx on 07-28-2013, 08:15 AM
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Try again. 30 seconds down then 30 seconds up. If still doesn't work check your conectors.
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  #68  
By Tony v on 07-28-2013, 05:52 PM
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thing is i cant sync the 30 sec up because i hold it up and it wont stay just hits the top and come back half way down
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  #69  
By xxxjecxxx on 07-28-2013, 08:26 PM
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if you have INPA with coding cable you can reset it that way also.
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  #70  
By Tony v on 07-30-2013, 03:03 AM
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i dont have one would that be the only other way ?
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  #71  
By Gripster on 11-09-2013, 01:57 AM
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Another post of gratitude for this DIY. Dealer quoted me $491 for my rear passenger side window. I bought the part for $120 and got the job done in 90 minutes or so. I would have been quicker, but stuck on 1) the removing the window switch and 2) getting the window seated in the new regulator.

OP - I'll happily send you the money for a 6-pack of beer. A great DIY. Thanks!
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  #72  
By xxxjecxxx on 11-09-2013, 02:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gripster View Post
Another post of gratitude for this DIY. Dealer quoted me $491 for my rear passenger side window. I bought the part for $120 and got the job done in 90 minutes or so. I would have been quicker, but stuck on 1) the removing the window switch and 2) getting the window seated in the new regulator.

OP - I'll happily send you the money for a 6-pack of beer. A great DIY. Thanks!
Glad you got it all fixed

I recommend changing them both at the same time as the other side is going to go shortly after.
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  #73  
By A-BAMF on 12-02-2013, 09:11 PM
How do I know if I need to replace the window regulator?

My right rear window will not go up if I fully lower it. The window works fine for the upper 95% of it's range, up and down all day long. There is alot of resistance when fully lowered, could this be caused by the regulator? To get it back up, I removed the door panel and helped the window up (lift slightly on window while pushing the window up button).
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  #74  
By xxxjecxxx on 12-02-2013, 09:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A-BAMF View Post
How do I know if I need to replace the window regulator?

My right rear window will not go up if I fully lower it. The window works fine for the upper 95% of it's range, up and down all day long. There is alot of resistance when fully lowered, could this be caused by the regulator? To get it back up, I removed the door panel and helped the window up (lift slightly on window while pushing the window up button).
Look for pinched wires. It would say it's safe to say it's the regulator.
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  #75  
By A-BAMF on 12-02-2013, 09:35 PM
Thanks for the quick reply. I was under the impression that a failed regulator would result in a total failure of the window. I'll look for pinched wires this weekend.
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  #76  
By hoopvillian on 12-04-2013, 11:39 PM
Thanks for the explanations in this thread. My passengers side rear failed the other day. Ordered some $50 knockoff part from Amazon. Working perfectly now.

Only issue I had was snapping the window back in. The rubber pieces the window sits on were keeping me from getting it in there easily. I had to loosen the whole assembly again to get the right angle to snap it in. That part took longer than everything else for me.
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  #77  
By LXXV on 12-30-2013, 06:53 PM
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Thank you OP! Just finished changing out my broken regulator thanks to this thread. Another hundreds saved!
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  #78  
By xxxjecxxx on 12-30-2013, 07:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LXXV View Post
Thank you OP! Just finished changing out my broken regulator thanks to this thread. Another hundreds saved!
That's what this community is all about
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  #79  
By summerthekid on 01-16-2014, 09:19 AM
Followed the vimeo video and had successful replacement of my passenger rear window regulator.

I have a 2007 BMW 335i Sedan, e90. approx. 47,000 miles

Symptons: at about 40,000 miles the power window had trouble going up and down, but after a few times pressing the power window button, it would eventually go up. One night, it went down and didn't go up again, heard a loud crack (like others have stated here).

Resolution: read through this forum, bought $53 window regulator replacement off Amazon (Dorman brand), watched video and followed along for replacement. Couple tips:

- Torx wrench sizes need are T-15 (for the 3 black torx screws just inside the door trim) and T-25 for the 3 silver torx crews that hold the regulator and the motor together.

- When we got the new regulator in, we had a really tough time getting the green clip to set in the window's hole. We took the rubber feet off the green clip and took an exacto knife to it and cut em down. Replaced and clip when in just fine. Dorman will get a justly review for this on Amazon, these should fit perfect with no exacto surgery, but I'd rather do that than spend $120 for the regulator at stealership.

Thanks all
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  #80  
By tellyc on 02-13-2014, 01:54 PM
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Just replaced my window regulator on my 2006 325i. I'm having the same problem as Tony V. When I try to reset the window, the window doesn't stop at the top long enough for me to hold the button down for 15, 17 or 30 seconds. When I raise the window to set it, it hits the top and then immediately lowers to halfway down.

Anyone have another solution that would work? I've tried holding it on the first click, second click, tried 4 secs, 10 secs, 15 secs, 17 secs, 30 secs...nothing has worked yet.
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  #81  
By Needler56 on 09-18-2014, 09:39 PM
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Just replaced the rear passenger regulator at 119K. Some reminders: Peel back the foam vapor barrier very carefully while cutting away at the butyl tape as the foam can rip very easily. Dismount the bracket first so that you can get to the top screw of the pulley plate as it's behind the door frame. Great DIY!
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  #82  
By PascalsWager on 10-13-2014, 11:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Needler56 View Post
Just replaced the rear passenger regulator at 119K. Some reminders: Peel back the foam vapor barrier very carefully while cutting away at the butyl tape as the foam can rip very easily. Dismount the bracket first so that you can get to the top screw of the pulley plate as it's behind the door frame. Great DIY!
Bumping this topic- good writeup OP!

This is an incredibly easy job - less than an hour taking your time. You can get away with non-OEM pieces here as even the OEM regulators are exactly the same part materials and the issue is design, not quality. I went with ECS tuning's $50 model. (Why they use flimsy plastic for the green piece holding the window is beyond me?). Try not to handle the regulator wire area excessively as there is a thin film of white grease on it that is required to keep the assembly free flowing.

I'll second the mention that the one bolt on the top of the window motor that is difficult to reach....I actually ended up bending a bit of that metal to obtain better access - it wont hurt the functionality, and its covered by the panel, so no harm, no foul there.

I saw someone above mentioned T-15 and T-25 sizes are needed? Nope, t's just a T-20 as the OP notes.... (you can get a cheap torx set at walmart <$10) IDK if the fronts are different?

You may also encounter the window acting funny upon replacement - not going all the way up or down on a single long window up/down pull/push. There are threads : stating you need to do a reset or up/down hold procedure. In my case, I just needed to cycle starting/stopping the car a few times and it went back to normal. I believe the manual also covers this.

One final tip - snag a few extra trim anchors for the door panel when you buy the regulator. My panel had a few brittle ones I was able to replace while I was in there. Any auto parts store carries these too - they are generic and most work across brands. No one likes phantom rattles!

Again, great info on this DIY section! Thanks to my fellow users.

-PW
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  #83  
By Zero_09 on 10-19-2014, 11:52 AM
I'm thinking of doing this but not sure if I should just replace it or try to fix it. My rear passenger window works on occasion. It would go down but sometimes it doesn't come back up. I would have to fiddle around with it either with the front driver controls or go to that side and try using the button on that side. Sometimes it just doesn't want to come back up then all of a sudden it goes back up.

I tried S51357140590 number on ECS tuning and Tischer BMW but nothing showed up
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  #84  
By aekdBMW on 10-20-2014, 10:53 AM
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Thanks OP for taking the time to post this! I changed out the rear passenger regulator in less than an hour with the help of this DIY. Easy to follow instructions and no issues.
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  #85  
By Needler56 on 11-12-2014, 02:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zero_09 View Post
I'm thinking of doing this but not sure if I should just replace it or try to fix it. My rear passenger window works on occasion. It would go down but sometimes it doesn't come back up. I would have to fiddle around with it either with the front driver controls or go to that side and try using the button on that side. Sometimes it just doesn't want to come back up then all of a sudden it goes back up.

I tried S51357140590 number on ECS tuning and Tischer BMW but nothing showed up
I thought about fixing it as well, but what broke on mine was the wire metal anchor to the spindle. I'm guessing this is what caused the metal on metal/glass crack sound inside the door when it broke.
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