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      10-14-2013, 12:33 PM   #67
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Originally Posted by Quasimodem View Post
Well that is a relief to me, I have been putting off the tranny fluid change for about a year even though I have all the ingredients. I was a bit leery of the project because I seem to have read somewhere that the transmission fluid had to be a certain temperature before you can change it. I don't have a reader which can report the tranny temp. I believe if the tranny fluid is the wrong temperature some wont come out and I could be overfilling it.
Read the PDF a few posts up that I linked...has all the info about temps in there.
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      10-14-2013, 12:40 PM   #68
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Well that is a relief to me, I have been putting off the tranny fluid change for about a year even though I have all the ingredients. I was a bit leery of the project because I seem to have read somewhere that the transmission fluid had to be a certain temperature before you can change it. I don't have a reader which can report the tranny temp. I believe if the tranny fluid is the wrong temperature some wont come out and I could be overfilling it.
If you have no leaks I wouldn't worry about it. 6 liters out, 6 liters in.
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      10-14-2013, 01:01 PM   #69
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Originally Posted by Quasimodem View Post
Well that is a relief to me, I have been putting off the tranny fluid change for about a year even though I have all the ingredients. I was a bit leery of the project because I seem to have read somewhere that the transmission fluid had to be a certain temperature before you can change it. I don't have a reader which can report the tranny temp. I believe if the tranny fluid is the wrong temperature some wont come out and I could be overfilling it.
you cant realistically overfill it unless you drive it hard during the new oil warm up procedure, it will come back out once its full. It is getting the new fluid to the proper temperature that is the tricky part, not draining. You have to fill as much as you can, plug it, start the car, put transmission in drive and warm up the fluid, plus run through the gears, and fill it while the car is still running (at least, thats what worked for me) If you dont get it up to temperature you wont be able to add enough. Not hard to do though, there are a handful of write-ups around the net and I havent seen any horror stories of a botched job yet.

Last edited by Hoooper; 10-14-2013 at 01:07 PM.
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      01-20-2014, 09:59 PM   #70
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What's the part number for the 335i and XI? Will this install guide be relatively the same?
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      01-20-2014, 11:20 PM   #71
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What's the part number for the 335i and XI? Will this install guide be relatively the same?
Don't know the number but yeah the procedure is the same
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      02-12-2014, 11:22 AM   #72
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How many hose clamps do you need in total? I found the part number:16197229911
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      03-30-2014, 05:38 PM   #73
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Thanks, Quasimodem. I changed the fuel filter today using your DIY. My 2009 335d has 43k miles (I got it with 32k) and I also recently did what I presume was the third oil change. The previous owner had all work done at the dealer (in another state), and I noticed the fuel filter still had the original clamps. Therefore, the dealer didn't replace the filter with the second oil change. So, it may be a good idea for owners who still have dealer service to remind them. One point I would like to add is that the aluminum nipple on the clamp end is very fragile, and I broke the old one off in the rubber fuel line and had to pull it out with needle nose pliers. I replaced the clamp with a fuel injection clamp, no serrations. Also I filled the filter with Diesel Purge before installing it. Once installed, I started by the normal procedure. The car cranked on its own for about 7-10 seconds and then started. I plan to disassemble the old filter sometime soon to see what's in there.
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      04-03-2014, 11:44 PM   #74
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I wonder if there is a way to hotwire/hijack the lift pump to get a prime, for those of us who arent using a BT tool
I have a new fuel filter kicking around waiting to be installed, and I am sure I need it as my car is about 59K mi and is probably on it's original FF (I just bought the car recently, cabin and engine air filters were original, slowly replacing things).

Really believe that HPFP failures out there are related to them being starved of fuel on start up. I had an '07 E92 335i for five years prior to my 'd' and went though the HPFP recall once. Interestingly, that after pump replacement and reprogramming, you would hear the pump/fuel system prime itself when you unlock the car. Before, the recall, that was not the case. My habit is to turn on the ignition and start the car after 3-5 secs to prime the system (even my old '04 Aura TL would not start if cranked right away). BTW, never had issues with the 335i after that one recall.

Anyway, so the HPFP starvation concern with the 'd' is also there. So I looked at the wiring diagram and there are brown (ground) and red/white (positive) wires that activate an in-tank lift pump. Connection in under the rear seat, and the controller box is behind the pass. side of the rear seatback. Measured the voltage 8.7-9.0V while running. I'm thinking that if to disconnect the pump from the control box and give it 9.0V, will it run? Think, gonna try this weekend, if my electrical engineer at work checks everything out and gives me an ok. Now, the question, where to find a 9V power supply with high enough current to drive the damn thing. By my primitive calcs, it draws about 20A.

Thoughts? Comments?
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      04-04-2014, 12:36 AM   #75
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Originally Posted by Yozh View Post

Anyway, so the HPFP starvation concern with the 'd' is also there. So I looked at the wiring diagram and there are brown (ground) and red/white (positive) wires that activate an in-tank lift pump. Connection in under the rear seat, and the controller box is behind the pass. side of the rear seatback. Measured the voltage 8.7-9.0V while running. I'm thinking that if to disconnect the pump from the control box and give it 9.0V, will it run? Think, gonna try this weekend, if my electrical engineer at work checks everything out and gives me an ok. Now, the question, where to find a 9V power supply with high enough current to drive the damn thing. By my primitive calcs, it draws about 20A.

Thoughts? Comments?
Sounds good. You will completely isolate the pump before giving it juice right? Maybe this unit will work: http://www.circuitspecialists.com/be...-csi3010x.html
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      04-05-2014, 01:38 AM   #76
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I now fear the fuel filter, it spits diesel when I hotwire the fuel pump.
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      04-05-2014, 02:25 AM   #77
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Success: In-Tank Fuel Pump Hotwired

Likes:
-New fuel filter
-No dealer costs to replace
-Car starts on first crank like usual, my HPFP will live
-My lovely wife as a helper
-Electrical engineer at work to test my concept and lend me a DC power supply

Dislikes:
-Diesel in my hair
-Cramped space without a hoist or ramps
-Too many under tray pieces to remove, wish they would make a right size opening or put the filter under the hood
-Off the shelf clamp for the FF outlet, wish there would be better around
-Having to borrow equipment form work, think would be possible with a 6V motorbike battery
-Having to remove my rear seat, no folding seats is a pain
-My wife does not know a difference between a socket and torx driver

Last edited by Yozh; 04-05-2014 at 02:31 AM.
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      04-05-2014, 11:40 AM   #78
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Connect Here:

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Give it about 8V and 1.5A to get the pump going.

I have originally set the DC power supply to 8.5V and 1A, but when connected it just ate it all up and no pump action, so I had to connect and then raise the voltage and current, and at about 6V and it kicked in. I think motorbike 6V battery may be a quick and cheap solution. Should have also hooked up filter outlet to some kind of a tube to drain into a container. This will avoid a stream of diesel coming out splashing everywhere.
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      04-05-2014, 01:26 PM   #79
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Good job.

Now we know how to prime the system to save our HPFP.

Glad I got folding rear seat too.

P.S. You could solder some female pin connectors with some heat shrink tubing insulation and plug into the pins on the disconnected connector rather than puncturing the wires, but its a bit more work.
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      04-05-2014, 08:33 PM   #80
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Yeah people with folding rear seats are laughing. I may retrofit at a later date if i can find a spare one. For the connectors I have left those blue ones on for the next time. One other thought I had is to find a male half of a connector for the black one that connects to the control box, then no wires have to be cut.
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      04-10-2014, 03:28 PM   #81
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This is the inside of the fuel filter, do not mind the aluminum bits, they are from me sawing the thing. But the brown stuff in curious. The element was full of that stuff as well. This is after about 25000mi, filter element was stamped 11/2012.
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      04-10-2014, 04:07 PM   #82
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Do you think its over kill to change fuel filter every 13k? Indy charges me $83 plus my supplied part.
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      04-10-2014, 05:14 PM   #83
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Do you think its over kill to change fuel filter every 13k? Indy charges me $83 plus my supplied part.
I think it's a toss-up and depends on where you get your fuel and how often your car is sitting for prolonged periods of time brewing condensation in your fuel tank (i.e. parked at home while you are away on vacation). Personally, after this fuel filter change I am going to do it again in 10K, but then it's just me being paranoid of this "coffee" in my filter. Suppose that is what it's there for.
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      04-10-2014, 08:20 PM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yozh View Post
Likes:
-New fuel filter
-No dealer costs to replace
-Car starts on first crank like usual, my HPFP will live
-My lovely wife as a helper
-Electrical engineer at work to test my concept and lend me a DC power supply

Dislikes:
-Diesel in my hair
-Cramped space without a hoist or ramps
-Too many under tray pieces to remove, wish they would make a right size opening or put the filter under the hood
-Off the shelf clamp for the FF outlet, wish there would be better around
-Having to borrow equipment form work, think would be possible with a 6V motorbike battery
-Having to remove my rear seat, no folding seats is a pain
-My wife does not know a difference between a socket and torx driver
Why do all this work to prime your filter manually when with a simple scan tool you can tell the engine to prime the filter and have no worries like many others have done.

The tool will also reset service lights as well.
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      04-10-2014, 08:37 PM   #85
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Do you think its over kill to change fuel filter every 13k? Indy charges me $83 plus my supplied part.
Yes. Filters get better as they collect whatever is trying to pass through them.
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      04-10-2014, 08:39 PM   #86
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Attachment 1009091

This is the inside of the fuel filter, do not mind the aluminum bits, they are from me sawing the thing. But the brown stuff in curious. The element was full of that stuff as well. This is after about 25000mi, filter element was stamped 11/2012.
Could be bits of oxidized fuel and whatever junk was storage tanks (at the depot and/or station.
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      04-11-2014, 01:15 AM   #87
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Why do all this work to prime your filter manually when with a simple scan tool you can tell the engine to prime the filter and have no worries like many others have done.

The tool will also reset service lights as well.
So I do not have to buy this simple scan tool. I am not sure if Bav Tech does this, but if you know of the one that will do it for sure on our 335d's please post it here for others.
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      04-11-2014, 07:07 AM   #88
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So I do not have to buy this simple scan tool. I am not sure if Bav Tech does this, but if you know of the one that will do it for sure on our 335d's please post it here for others.
Back on post 7 of this thread:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...15&postcount=7

But I like your ingenuity in finding a way to do it without the BT tool.
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