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      08-15-2014, 11:32 AM   #23
zero2sixtyZ
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I got it the other night while under normal driving, after letting it idle for about 5 minutes. Not sure if the pump heated up or something, standard procedure... turned off, restarted, code gone. Going to replace plugs and coils as a precaution.
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      08-15-2014, 02:58 PM   #24
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Yeah I drove on the HWY today and WOT to 130 and nada....

Once I switch to higher boost map like you said its automatic Code time.

New plugs once tool arrives then of course I will do the switch of the coils. Find it a bit strange it was Cylinder 1 then I replaced Coil there and it went to Cylinder 3.....?

HPFP is covered by recall to 82k right?
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      08-16-2014, 06:59 AM   #25
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good ol N54s!

HPFP should be covered if it is the issue. It's pretty well documented on here.

As far as replacing the coils I'm guessing that was the next weak coil. Once you have the plugs done it makes trouble shooting quick. as it's coil or injector and usually coil. Again I keep an extra coil on hand as I have 2 N54s. Never know when you are going to need one. You can replace them all but they all don't fail at the same time so I do one at a time.

Edit: what codes are you guys getting relating to fuel?
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      08-18-2014, 03:53 PM   #26
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I had a lot of issues with misfires a few months after I installed my JB4. It turned out that the bank 1 fuel injectors were leaking. The car would run rough at idle, particularly after a cold start. Check your spark plugs after the car has been sitting overnight and see if there is any gas on them. The injectors are covered under warranty for 7 years/70,000 miles. I was able to get the dealership to change mine out for free with the newest part number (I believe they have been revised twice now because they suck).
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      08-18-2014, 07:54 PM   #27
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This engine has some major hurdles when tuning is involved huh?!?!

I am doing plugs tomorrow and see where that takes me. Most likely will replace the Coil Packs one at a time as I get misfires.

I will check for gas as you recommend. Glad the HPFP and Injectors are covered. Saves some worries and money if its a bigger item!!!!
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      08-19-2014, 11:21 AM   #28
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OK I have changed all plugs and coils today. I set map to 0 and the car felt strong. I hope that once I put the Stage 1 + FMIC map on I get no codes and if I do I assume its injectors or HPFP related which means its on BMW's dime unless I am mistaken.....stay tuned!
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      08-21-2014, 07:46 AM   #29
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After a few days of driving on the Cobb AP map that originally saw the codes I have felt no hesitation and seen no codes. Such a relief as driving a new to you car that's giving SES lights was driving me nuts. Even if it was my fault due to the tune.

Now I can focus more on a nice AFE Dual cone or exhaust. Back to the fun spending!
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      08-22-2014, 08:30 AM   #30
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I've got the 2A87 code. Cleaning out the VANOS sensors tomorrow morning.
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      08-22-2014, 08:36 AM   #31
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What is that code? I still want to do the Walnut Blasting as its just a smart move at 65k right?
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      08-22-2014, 08:43 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by Welterweight View Post
What is that code? I still want to do the Walnut Blasting as its just a smart move at 65k right?
If it has never been done, sure. Spend $350 at the local shop or buy the stuff yourself: an air compressor + media blaster + gasket is under $350 depending on the models you purchase.
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      08-22-2014, 08:51 AM   #33
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only had the car for 3k so I have no clue if it has been done....
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      08-22-2014, 09:20 AM   #34
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only had the car for 3k so I have no clue if it has been done....
If you are planning on keeping it a while get it done and then again in 25k miles or whatever the forum suggests. It's just going to help your idle for the most part unless it's really bad I think.

I've got two N54s and already have an air compressor so I'll buy a HF media blaster one of these days and just do it myself on a Saturday.
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      08-22-2014, 10:01 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Welterweight View Post
What is that code? I still want to do the Walnut Blasting as its just a smart move at 65k right?
Walnut blasting is definitely good. I've heard the best intervals are around 35-40k. It's definitely considered maintenance on these cars because of the direct injection, since fuel doesn't help clean the valves. I've heard the BMS OCC will help with some blowby / carbon, but not all.

2A87 Outlet-Vanos variable cam control test + 3100 boost-pressure control, deactivation

Basically, the VANOS sensors get clogged or dirty, if not fail, and need to be cleaned/replaced. Happens under WOT and it won't allow the turbos to spool until you restart the car.

Been happening more frequently at 77k. It's a quick fix but I haven't had the time yet. I've purchased new bolts and O-rings just in case I can get away with cleaning them.

Here's the DIY:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=486201
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      08-22-2014, 10:42 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zero2sixtyZ View Post
Walnut blasting is definitely good. I've heard the best intervals are around 35-40k. It's definitely considered maintenance on these cars because of the direct injection, since fuel doesn't help clean the valves. I've heard the BMS OCC will help with some blowby / carbon, but not all.

2A87 Outlet-Vanos variable cam control test + 3100 boost-pressure control, deactivation

Basically, the VANOS sensors get clogged or dirty, if not fail, and need to be cleaned/replaced. Happens under WOT and it won't allow the turbos to spool until you restart the car.

Been happening more frequently at 77k. It's a quick fix but I haven't had the time yet. I've purchased new bolts and O-rings just in case I can get away with cleaning them.

Here's the DIY:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=486201
FWIW my BMS OCC is always bone dry, I guess maybe a light coating on the walls. If anything it's just a pain to get the bottom 1/2 on and off when I do oil changes.

At least cleaning/replacing the vanos looks quick and easy to do!
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