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      11-11-2007, 02:57 AM   #111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PiperD View Post
Good to know, thanks!
Make sure you have a spotter to help when you're driving the car up the ramps. The first time, I thought "only pussies use spotters - and I'm no pussy"

Yeah, well when the first ramp slipped I said HELL NO and went and got my wife to watch the ramps as I drove the car onto them. No problems. My P235 PS2s are wider than the ramp surface, so you have to be careful. Not as easy as my old '87 Mustang GT LOL!!!
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      11-11-2007, 08:54 PM   #112
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I used this thread the weekend. Great post!

I just changed my break in oil at 1426 miles. I have a 6sp and was nervous about the clutch and all. I used the e-brake with the clutch and had my wife spot the front end while driving up. It was fairly easy with the Rhino 12000 lbs ramps.

Another tip that may have been mentioned already. I used a Oil Boy extractor to vaccum out the oil in the oil filter chamber.
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      11-12-2007, 02:57 PM   #113
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fragadellic View Post
Make sure you have a spotter to help when you're driving the car up the ramps
I hear ya - this is definitely the smart thing to do.

The first time I used them I had my wife spot. I used them solo two times since then. Didn't have a problem lining them up or having them slip, but I agree that having a spotter is definitely the safe (and smart) thing to do.
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      11-13-2007, 05:35 AM   #114
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Originally Posted by BMW_TT View Post
Your temp guage is different compared to my 08 or I might be blind.
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Originally Posted by fragadellic View Post
That's different than mine also...

march '07 productions and up have the oil temp gauge that max at 340

the dealer put the new instrument panel in my car (im a post march '07 build) and i now have the newer oil temp gauge. i dont know if my old instrument panel really "broke" or they wouldnt think i would notice it....
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      11-14-2007, 12:44 AM   #115
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Give the Rhino rams a good kick...

...and wedge it under the front tires. Then give it a go and you'll be up the ramps without them slipping. It's worked for me for the past few years. Thanks for all the info here. Great stuff.
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      11-16-2007, 09:35 PM   #116
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Question What is p/n for '07 335i oil filter?

Thanks.

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      11-17-2007, 02:29 AM   #117
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ndna Jnz View Post
Thanks.

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      11-19-2007, 09:37 AM   #118
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I'm about to do my first 1200 oil change, but I can't decided on which oil to go with. A part of me wants to stick with the good old Mobil 1 and the other part of me wants to use the Valvoline mentioned in the oil R&D report.
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      11-19-2007, 08:46 PM   #119
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Anyone have the torque spec for the oil pan drain?
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      11-20-2007, 01:21 AM   #120
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Booboo12 View Post
YES THEY ARE!!!
I went back to my parts dept. Dropped my BMWCCA membership card on the desk, then asked how much for a quart of oil. he said $8.50 a quart and acted like he was giving me the deal of a lifetime. I pulled the cataloge off his shelf, showed him the MSRP of $5.40 in the catalogue and all he could say was "I don't pay that much for oil.."... I resisted in saying "No sh-t, you pay less..." but decided to give all my parts $$$ to another shop who sold me a filter for $8 and oil for $4.85... needless to say, I bought a couple of filters and two cases of oil... BMWNA says the parts dept are owned seperately than the BMW Shops.. Ok fine, but they are giving BMW a BAD BAD name... They wouldn't get even close to an all 5's in my book... luckily BMWNA doesn't have that on their checklist, but I did tell em than in the comments...

ps: tischer bmw is having a special - 10 filters for $75 with free shipping...
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...egoryID=104047


Sucks that they don't come with the O-rings. I got my filter from a BMW parts manufacturer. Probably the company that BMW outsource their filters to. I'll take pics of it when I get it in.
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      11-25-2007, 05:18 PM   #121
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Did my first oil change on the car w/1830 on the odo. Went very smoothly save a few spots of oil on the garage floor.

I measured the drained oil and it only came out to ~6.25 qt, plus whatever the filter was holding, so approx. 6.5 qt total. However I only added what came out of the drain plug (6.25 qt) and the car shows that I'm full.

Anyone wanna chime in on this? Am I probably going to need to add that extra .25 - .75 qts as the filter gets more saturated w/more driving? It's a little unsettling to me because a few folks reported they threw in a full 7, but there was that one guy who said he only put in about 6 qts and it took a days worth of driving around to show that he needed to add more oil.

Also... is everyone taking oil readings while the car is stationary or moving?
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      11-25-2007, 08:01 PM   #122
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Quote:
Originally Posted by discoboy1 View Post
Anyone have the torque spec for the oil pan drain?
25Nm for both the filter and drain plug.
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      11-25-2007, 09:14 PM   #123
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I just changed mine at 1500. I bought some unbranded BMW OEM filters. If you guys are interested. I can probably get these in a bulk of 10. I'll try to get some pics asap.
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      11-30-2007, 11:06 PM   #124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beh-em-veh-808 View Post

1) Buy an OEM oil filter and engine oil from a BMW dealer's parts shop. This removes any doubts about getting the right part, compatibility, and warrenty. Filter P/N: 11-42-7-566-327-104. It is manufactured by MANN of Germany (P/N HU 816).

If you guys are interested. I can get the MANN oil filter kit in a bulk order. Let me know if anyone is interested and I will try to get a quote.
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      12-27-2007, 11:42 PM   #125
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I just changed my oil for the first time ever. saved a lot of money!great write up
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      12-30-2007, 06:48 AM   #126
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im confused on the air pressure relieve on the filter cap. the way i see it we do the following:

1. use 17mm socket and drain plug and leave oil running for 10 minutes.
2. after 10 minutes of draining do we close the plug or just leave it open and go to the filter cap open it, replace the filter, put it back, then close the drain plug?
3. lastly fill with 7qt oil and your good.

PS: does our key fobs store oil change info if done at dealer?
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      01-01-2008, 02:37 AM   #127
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I am suprised that no body is talking about reseting the maintenance/service light after the oil changed. I had my oil changed, and I have no idea how to reset that oil light. Does anyone know the procedure for a E90?
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      01-01-2008, 02:54 AM   #128
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Quote:
Originally Posted by b325i View Post
I am suprised that no body is talking about reseting the maintenance/service light after the oil changed. I had my oil changed, and I have no idea how to reset that oil light. Does anyone know the procedure for a E90?
Yea, If you have IDrive you can get in there and reset it.
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      01-01-2008, 03:11 AM   #129
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I don't have an IDRIVE, I was thinking about a simple procedure like does Japonese Honda car where you press and hold the meter for several second and the maintenance light will go off. Is there something similiar with E90?
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      01-13-2008, 04:38 AM   #130
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i just did my first oil change today. and it was SOOO easy thanks to the pictures and instructions. took me total 30 minutes.

if anyone wants oil change in nanuet or whatever area let me know
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      01-16-2008, 11:44 AM   #131
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How to reset oil light for the 335i...?

I've read all 6 pages of this posting, but I could not find anyone actually giving the procedure to reset the oil service due light for the 335i.
I'm about to change my oil for the first time at 6K miles (because the dealer won't change it for free until 15K).
I don't plan on resetting the light this time, as I like the post I saw that gave the advice of leaving it alone, or it may delay when I get my free change from BMW. However, I want to know how to do this, so I can put the procedure in a safe place for when my free oil changes run out (4 years?).
Thanks!
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      02-10-2008, 02:59 PM   #132
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I just performed my first oil change at 7000 miles and this thread has proved to be especially helpful. Here are a few observations from my experience:

- The oil filter was nearly impossible to remove by hand. I had to wrestle with it for about 10 minutes, taking breaks to cool my hands (with gloves on) before it loosened up.

- The ramps are tricky. I picked up a pair of 8000 lbs rhino ramps for the job. At first I thought I'd just drive up and get to business. As several folks have noted, the ramps have a tendency to slide. My process was to kick the ramps up against the tires and wedge a sandbag against the back of the ramp to keep it from slipping. Then I had my wife spot me. Still it took a few iterations to get it right.

- I found that my local dealer was willing match an online price of 4.89 for the oil (part: 07510017866) and 9.42 (part: 11427566327) for the filter. This saved me about $30 from their original prices.

- I almost missed the pea sized o-ring for the oil filter assembly.

- I could find the crush washer after the drain bolt was removed and realized it was still stuck to the oil pan.

- The drain bolt was not very tight when I removed it and and without a torque wrench I may have gone a bit too tight when putting it back. I plan to invest in a torque wrench for the next job.

Overall it was easy and for less than the cost of a gas fill-up a no brainer as well.
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