[Sajmik]

Hi,
which of the two Actuators in N52 motor cause uneven idle and weird ticking noise under acceleration?
I could only find one part number: 11617579114

Thanks

[Sajmik]

or maybe so DIY to take the smaller one out, so I could check if it is OK?
(I found DIY only on larger one)

[TheBigYahi]

The other one is 11617560538. I haven't run across a DIY for either yet that doesn't require taking off the manifold.

[Three_thirty_I]

What makes you think that it is the DISA actuator that is causing the ticking noise? You can check part numbers on RealOEM, but in order to remove the smaller DISA actuator the intake manifold has to be removed (will have to replace the 6 gaskets that go onto the head).

For the uneven idle, there could be loads of things causing that. I would look at the condition of the MAF, vacuum leaks, Vanos solenoids (check valves), and then there are still other potential faults on sensors that can cause this.

[Sajmik]

Originally Posted by Three_thirty_I

What makes you think that it is the DISA actuator that is causing the ticking noise? You can check part numbers on RealOEM, but in order to remove the smaller DISA actuator the intake manifold has to be removed (will have to replace the 6 gaskets that go onto the head).

For the uneven idle, there could be loads of things causing that. I would look at the condition of the MAF, vacuum leaks, Vanos solenoids (check valves), and then there are still other potential faults on sensors that can cause this.

What else can cause the noise? I heard it only in higher RPMs(3500ish-6000). Also I had engine replaced few days ago after a complete failure. But intake manifold and other parts were reused.

Why it is needed to replace the gaskets when removing intake manifold?
And here is the pic of first DISA Actuator.. Where did the flap go?!

[Three_thirty_I]

Originally Posted by Sajmik

What else can cause the noise? I heard it only in higher RPMs(3500ish-6000). Also I had engine replaced few days ago after a complete failure. But intake manifold and other parts were reused.

Why it is needed to replace the gaskets when removing intake manifold?
And here is the pic of first DISA Actuator.. Where did the flap go?!

Okay, "Houston, we indeed have a problem".

That flap missing means that it have either been ingested, or is rattling around somewhere in the intake. You are going to have to remove the intake to get that out, and hopefully it didn't make its way into the engine, same goes for the pin! The intake gaskets are cheap, they fit into the intake runners where they fit onto the intakes on the head, and due to the heat I suppose they ideally need to be replaced whenever the intake comes off, same goes for the throttle body gasket. But since that doesn't get nearly as hot, one can simply turn the gasket around in that case. I suppose you could do the same thing with the intake gaskets, but honestly, they aren't so expensive. You will need a new DISA actuator (I don't think these are repairable like the older ones from the M54 engines).

I would also advise against driving this car until you have sorted all of this out, you don't want that missing flap and pin to get ingested if it hasn't already! Holding thumbs that it hasn't!

[Sajmik]

Originally Posted by Three_thirty_I

Okay, "Houston, we indeed have a problem".

That flap missing means that it have either been ingested, or is rattling around somewhere in the intake. You are going to have to remove the intake to get that out, and hopefully it didn't make its way into the engine, same goes for the pin! The intake gaskets are cheap, they fit into the intake runners where they fit onto the intakes on the head, and due to the heat I suppose they ideally need to be replaced whenever the intake comes off, same goes for the throttle body gasket. But since that doesn't get nearly as hot, one can simply turn the gasket around in that case. I suppose you could do the same thing with the intake gaskets, but honestly, they aren't so expensive. You will need a new DISA actuator (I don't think these are repairable like the older ones from the M54 engines).

I would also advise against driving this car until you have sorted all of this out, you don't want that missing flap and pin to get ingested if it hasn't already! Holding thumbs that it hasn't!

Okay. Will check it tommorow.

I won't..Thank you very much. I hope aswell.

[Three_thirty_I]

Originally Posted by Sajmik

Okay. Will check it tommorow.

I won't..Thank you very much. I hope aswell.

You are most welcome! Hope you can find those missing bits and get this car back to good health! Keep us posted!

[matteblue3er]

You don't always have to replace the intake manifold gaskets.

Majority of the time, we do not need to replace the gaskets when doing walnut shell blasting service on N54/5 motors. Unless the gasket is noticeable crushed or otherwise damaged or the customer requests new gaskets, we don't replace them.

OP, you sure your valve lifters are not ticking?

[Three_thirty_I]

Originally Posted by matteblue3er

You don't always have to replace the intake manifold gaskets.

Majority of the time, we do not need to replace the gaskets when doing walnut shell blasting service on N54/5 motors. Unless the gasket is noticeable crushed or otherwise damaged or the customer requests new gaskets, we don't replace them.

OP, you sure your valve lifters are not ticking?

I am sure one can reuse these gaskets as I mentioned above, but they aren't so expensive and I would rather replace them than sit with a vacuum leak afterwards and then have to take everything apart again. If one is going to reuse them, then as I said above, I would turn them around so that the "fresher" side is then mated to the intakes on the cylinder head.

[3002 tii]

Originally Posted by TheBigYahi

The other one is 11617560538. I haven't run across a DIY for either yet that doesn't require taking off the manifold.

Part ending in 114 doesn't require the manifold to be removed since it's located on the outside. Just take out air box, disconnect maf and it's right by the throttle body.

[Sajmik]

I am having trouble disconnecting hose at the very end of valve cover. There is really limited space and I am also not sure how to disconnect that damn thing.
Any advice?

[W37V]

squeeze on ridges and pull (wiggle).

some more accessible connectors are the same, so you can practice on another connector before you approach that one.

[Three_thirty_I]

Originally Posted by Sajmik

I am having trouble disconnecting hose at the very end of valve cover. There is really limited space and I am also not sure how to disconnect that damn thing.
Any advice?

Yep, as said above, squeeze those ridges while pulling - it will take a but of effort to come off, but take your time so that you don't brake it.

Some tips I can give from what I remember:

There are some cables or hoses (can't remember) that are mounted to the intake manifold near the firewall by means of plastic clips - I could not get one of them loose, it was just not happening and all I was doing was ruining my fingers! Easiest solution is to grab your torx bit (not sure of the size) and remove the metal bracket that is mounted to the intake manifold holding these plastics clips.

Then, almost in the same area, there are all those cables from the various heated vent hoses, and they all go into a connector bus which is also mounted to the intake manifold. It is much easier to again, remove the entire bracket that holds this bus onto the intake than trying to unplug each cable - they are really small and fit tightly.

Also, make a point of marking each cable connector so that you don't lose track of where they go when putting everything back together.

Can't think of anything else, but shout if you are stuck.

[Sajmik]

Got that damn intake manifold out. Had some problems with that electrical junction box.

And to the topic. Second DISA actuator seems ok(when removed it was opened and I could not move with it by hand). Also found the broken flap, so I hope that was it. And what do you think about getting someone with borescope to check if something else did not went to engine? Or that is higly unlikely/I would notice it immediately?

And anything else I should replace when got it all disassembled ?

[Three_thirty_I]

Originally Posted by Sajmik

Got that damn intake manifold out. Had some problems with that electrical junction box.

And to the topic. Second DISA actuator seems ok(when removed it was opened and I could not move with it by hand). Also found the broken flap, so I hope that was it. And what do you think about getting someone with borescope to check if something else did not went to engine? Or that is higly unlikely/I would notice it immediately?

And anything else I should replace when got it all disassembled ?

That junction box is a bit tricky to remove.

That's good to hear that the second DISA is still fine and that you managed to recover the flap! I can't think of anything else to replace while this is all apart, unless for whatever reason you need to replace the knock sensors which are now accessible along with the starter motor etc. If all looks good looking into the intake ports, I would still consider having a borescope down the plug holes to see if anything looks wrong. Just that extra peace of mind. Hopefully though you were lucky!

Keep us posted.

[Sajmik]

So I got the part today and assembled it. Everything seems fine. Just having problem with left strut brace. Cant get bolt in the hole, it seems like strut had moved a bit. Any advice?

[Three_thirty_I]

Originally Posted by Sajmik

So I got the part today and assembled it. Everything seems fine. Just having problem with left strut brace. Cant get bolt in the hole, it seems like strut had moved a bit. Any advice?

Is the car on a flat and level surface? When I had mine both off for this job, the car had of course not moved and this was all done in my garage. Had no problems getting everything back into place and tightened up. Oh, quite hefty torque values BTW.

Maybe post some pics of what it's looking like??

[Sajmik]

in the picture it does not look so bad, but I cant get that bolt in. Yes car is and was on level surface.

I unscrewed only the bolt on the picture and have been moving with the bar back and forth. Couldn't I mess up something with the bolt on other end?

[hassmaschine]

Try jacking the car up from the subframe under the engine.

[Three_thirty_I]

Originally Posted by Sajmik

in the picture it does not look so bad, but I cant get that bolt in. Yes car is and was on level surface.

I unscrewed only the bolt on the picture and have been moving with the bar back and forth. Couldn't I mess up something with the bolt on other end?

You would have had to loosen this bolt, and then the middle bolt that holds both stabiliser bars to the firewall - it's under that plastic cover that screws open on the plastic cowl below the windscreen in the middle, right next to the inner windscreen wiper. When I did mine, I loosened the bolts on both stabiliser bars and obviously the main bolt holding them together in the middle, then simply removed the one that was going to be in the way. From what I remember, they interlock on top of each other, and I suspect the one has to always be on top, so this could be what is causing the holes to not match up. I would loosen all bolts and try and get everything to fit and line up, then set about putting the bolts back in and finger tight to make sure all is happy. Then torque everything up starting from the strut towers and then the one main one in the middle.

[Sajmik]

Loosened the main bolt and managed to fit the bolt in.

Thank you for your time and advice!