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      03-08-2016, 07:33 PM   #67
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Zach,
what do you think about following kit? would it be sufficient for removing normal defects?

http://www.detailedimage.com/Meguiar...n-5-Kit-P1191/
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      03-09-2016, 08:40 AM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SHEEDI View Post
Zach,
what do you think about following kit? would it be sufficient for removing normal defects?

http://www.detailedimage.com/Meguiar...n-5-Kit-P1191/
Yep - that would surely make an improvement on every type of vehicle.

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      03-10-2016, 04:34 PM   #69
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Originally Posted by Detailed Image View Post
Yep - that would surely make an improvement on every type of vehicle.

Zach McGovern
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Thanks Zach,
for same car, what products do I need to remove orange peel without sanding?
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      03-10-2016, 10:58 PM   #70
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The only potential option would be CarPro Denim or Velvet pads... but sanding will produce the best results in most cases.

With that being said, I would not recommend orange peel removal on OEM paint. The clear coat is simply too thin and the risk is too high.

-Zach
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      03-11-2016, 05:32 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Detailed Image View Post
The only potential option would be CarPro Denim or Velvet pads... but sanding will produce the best results in most cases.

With that being said, I would not recommend orange peel removal on OEM paint. The clear coat is simply too thin and the risk is too high.

-Zach
Thanks Zach,
another question, I heard carpro essence is great product which can be used as cut polish if used with cutting pad for one step correction.
what pad with carpro essence I can use with Meguiar's MT300 Polisher to polish my bmw's light swirls? I will be applying cquartz uk after correction.
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      03-12-2016, 07:22 PM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SHEEDI View Post
Thanks Zach,
another question, I heard carpro essence is great product which can be used as cut polish if used with cutting pad for one step correction.
what pad with carpro essence I can use with Meguiar's MT300 Polisher to polish my bmw's light swirls? I will be applying cquartz uk after correction.
My personal favorite pad to use for polishing with Essence is the Rupes Yellow Pads. With Essence, you want to use a firmer foam pad (like the yellow rupes pad) to help generate enough heat in to break the polish down to allow you to use it as a primer. If you do not break the polish down, you will need to do an Eraser wipe down before coating to ensure polishing residue is removed. Also, Essence is quite unique in that you use very little product and should not prime your foam pad. I talk about that in my initial review of the product when it was released.

Product Review: CarPro Essence (Initial Impressions) by Zach McGovern

With that being said, you can use any pad with any polish to alter your results to fit your particular needs. I discuss this in the following article...

Paint Correction: Pairing Products and Pads by Zach McGovern

Hope that helps

-Zach
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      04-10-2016, 03:23 PM   #73
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Chemical Guys Lake Country pads?

Thanks for all the advice, Zach. Trying to prep for my first full detail with polish.

Are Chemical Guys Lake Country pads the same as "official" lake country? So many product options out there...I'm nervous about the polish because I only plan to do it once for the foreseeable future.

Oh also, just got a foam gun... and Chemical guys Mr. Pink seems highly recommended, but then I see Max Suds II...which would you recommend?

Last edited by bvanderhaar; 04-10-2016 at 03:40 PM..
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      04-11-2016, 08:18 AM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bvanderhaar View Post
Thanks for all the advice, Zach. Trying to prep for my first full detail with polish.

Are Chemical Guys Lake Country pads the same as "official" lake country? So many product options out there...I'm nervous about the polish because I only plan to do it once for the foreseeable future.

Oh also, just got a foam gun... and Chemical guys Mr. Pink seems highly recommended, but then I see Max Suds II...which would you recommend?
If it says Lake Country, then it is likely just rebranded to add the Chemical Guys logo or name to it as well (they rebrand a lot of stuff and sell it as their own).

Don't overthink shampoos... especially the ones from Chemical Guys. They have so many options it can make your head spin. You can make any shampoo work well in a foam gun, some products just require more or less product to make the same amount of foam as another. Just takes some experimenting. Either of the two you mentioned will work fine.

-Zach
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      04-13-2016, 01:37 PM   #75
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Zach-

I'm getting ready to "Summer-ize" my silver 335i and would like to give it a good cleaning. The paint is in good shape but does have a few swirls and light scratches I'd like to attack. However, the goal is to do a good job...not a whole days worth of work. (I'm fine with decent results for now)

Is it ok just do the following:


Power washer w/foam cannon - soap?
Wash (2 buckets of course)
Clay (Adams)
Seal - ?
Wax - ?
Using a PC 7424-pads?

Also what do you recommend for a high gloss tire dressing?

Thanks in advance.


Rob
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      04-14-2016, 01:24 AM   #76
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You might as well have a go at polishing if you are going to all that trouble.
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      04-14-2016, 02:17 AM   #77
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Zach,

I have applied Duragloss 105 after correction and an IPA wipe down and found beading to be fantastic for about 2 weeks but after sitting the car in the rain for 4-5 hours Duragloss no longer beads at all and has left water etching on the paint.

Any thoughts?

Kim
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      04-14-2016, 11:34 AM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobertRichy View Post
Zach-

I'm getting ready to "Summer-ize" my silver 335i and would like to give it a good cleaning. The paint is in good shape but does have a few swirls and light scratches I'd like to attack. However, the goal is to do a good job...not a whole days worth of work. (I'm fine with decent results for now)

Is it ok just do the following:

Power washer w/foam cannon - soap? any shampoo will be fine. If you are looking to try a new product, my favorite is Optimum Car Wash
Wash (2 buckets of course)
Clay (Adams)
Seal - ? I really like Blackfire Wet Diamond or Menzerna Power Lock
Wax - ? There is technically no need to wax if you've applied a sealant, but if you insist on it, my favorite wax is Pinnacle Souveran Paste Wax.
Using a PC 7424-pads? For spreading sealants and waxes, use a blue fine finishing pad

Also what do you recommend for a high gloss tire dressing? I like CarPro PERL.. it can be used neat or diluted with water to fit your desired look

Thanks in advance.


Rob
Hey Rob,

See my responses above in blue

**note that your process will not remove any of the scratches or swirl marks that you mentioned were visible**

If you want to address the defects in the paint, you must use an abrasive polish. This will add considerable time to the process, but is so worth it in my opinion. For a "one-step paint correction" I would reach for Optimum Hyper Spray Polish and a white or orange pad depending on the condition of your paint. This system will remove the majority of swirl marks (scratches will likely remain) and enhance the gloss.

Let me know if you have any other questions!

Zach McGovern
Detailed Image Ask-A-Pro Blog Author
www.AttentiontoDetailingPeoria.com



Quote:
Originally Posted by Digitalism View Post
Zach,

I have applied Duragloss 105 after correction and an IPA wipe down and found beading to be fantastic for about 2 weeks but after sitting the car in the rain for 4-5 hours Duragloss no longer beads at all and has left water etching on the paint.

Any thoughts?

Kim
Hi Kim,

I have not personally used DG105, but it seems this is an all-in-one product which does some light polishing while also leaving behind some protection.

These products are great for quick maintenance polishing, but in my experiences with other AIO products, the hydrophobic properties are not the greatest and will diminish over the course of a few weeks like most waxes.

You may choose to reapply DG105, or you may wish to polish the car again using a more traditional polish and then apply a more durable sealant like Menzerna Power Lock or perhaps a semi-permanent coating like 22ple VX3. Remember you can also use a spray detailer with added protection on a weekly or bi-weekly basis after your maintenance washes. My personal favorite is Meguiar's D156.

As far as the water spots go, are you sure they are etching and not simply mineral deposits?
Understanding Water Spots & How to Avoid Them by Zach McGovern


In any case, here is how to remove the spots...
Removing Water Spots by Zach McGovern


The water spotting is not a fault of the DG105 product. If hard water is left to dry on any product it will leave spots that could turn into etching.


Hope that helps! Let me know if you have any questions.

Zach McGovern
Detailed Image Ask-A-Pro Blog Author
www.AttentiontoDetailingPeoria.com
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      04-14-2016, 05:49 PM   #79
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Zach-

Thanks for the info and quick response. I guess I have been hesitant about paint correction out of fear. I don't want to screw anything up. Is the Optimum Hyper Spray Polish pretty simple to work with?

before I place an order.....is there a forum discount/coupon code?

Last edited by RobertRichy; 04-14-2016 at 06:00 PM..
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      04-14-2016, 09:31 PM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Detailed Image View Post
Hey Rob,

See my responses above in blue

**note that your process will not remove any of the scratches or swirl marks that you mentioned were visible**

If you want to address the defects in the paint, you must use an abrasive polish. This will add considerable time to the process, but is so worth it in my opinion. For a "one-step paint correction" I would reach for Optimum Hyper Spray Polish and a white or orange pad depending on the condition of your paint. This system will remove the majority of swirl marks (scratches will likely remain) and enhance the gloss.

Let me know if you have any other questions!

Zach McGovern
Detailed Image Ask-A-Pro Blog Author
www.AttentiontoDetailingPeoria.com





Hi Kim,

I have not personally used DG105, but it seems this is an all-in-one product which does some light polishing while also leaving behind some protection.

These products are great for quick maintenance polishing, but in my experiences with other AIO products, the hydrophobic properties are not the greatest and will diminish over the course of a few weeks like most waxes.

You may choose to reapply DG105, or you may wish to polish the car again using a more traditional polish and then apply a more durable sealant like Menzerna Power Lock or perhaps a semi-permanent coating like 22ple VX3. Remember you can also use a spray detailer with added protection on a weekly or bi-weekly basis after your maintenance washes. My personal favorite is Meguiar's D156.

As far as the water spots go, are you sure they are etching and not simply mineral deposits?
Understanding Water Spots & How to Avoid Them by Zach McGovern


In any case, here is how to remove the spots...
Removing Water Spots by Zach McGovern


The water spotting is not a fault of the DG105 product. If hard water is left to dry on any product it will leave spots that could turn into etching.


Hope that helps! Let me know if you have any questions.

Zach McGovern
Detailed Image Ask-A-Pro Blog Author
www.AttentiontoDetailingPeoria.com
I have already performed a paint correction on the car using Menzerna polishes and chosen the Duragloss 105 as a LSP.

The car was parked underneath a tree during the couple hours of heavy rain, so perhaps something had leached out of the tree and covering the car and degrading the DG105.

I thought DG105 was suppose to be a fairly durable product after reading a number of reviews on it. I might give it another go and if results are the same I have been wanting to give Hyrda02 a go.

Can I just reapply the DG105 or do I need to clay bar again or better yet give a 50:50 IPA wipedown and reapply the DG105?

As you mentioned I think it is deposits that have been leached from the trees above the car rather than etching.

Thanks Zach.
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      04-15-2016, 09:35 AM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobertRichy View Post
Zach-

Thanks for the info and quick response. I guess I have been hesitant about paint correction out of fear. I don't want to screw anything up. Is the Optimum Hyper Spray Polish pretty simple to work with?

before I place an order.....is there a forum discount/coupon code?
As long as you are using a dual action polisher, the process is extremely safe! There are plenty of youtube videos out there about how to properly use a DA machine... check out Junkman's videos!

Most polishes are very easy to work with.. Optimum Spray Polish is quite nice, another very popular option is Meguiar's M205.

Zach McGovern
Detailed Image Ask-A-Pro Blog Author
www.AttentiontoDetailingPeoria.com


Quote:
Originally Posted by Digitalism View Post
I have already performed a paint correction on the car using Menzerna polishes and chosen the Duragloss 105 as a LSP.

The car was parked underneath a tree during the couple hours of heavy rain, so perhaps something had leached out of the tree and covering the car and degrading the DG105.

I thought DG105 was suppose to be a fairly durable product after reading a number of reviews on it. I might give it another go and if results are the same I have been wanting to give Hyrda02 a go.

Can I just reapply the DG105 or do I need to clay bar again or better yet give a 50:50 IPA wipedown and reapply the DG105?

As you mentioned I think it is deposits that have been leached from the trees above the car rather than etching.

Thanks Zach.
Remember, water beading does not indicate protection... water beading just indicates a high surface tension. Surface tension can be altered by many things including contamination on the paint, so if tree sap or other environmental contamination is on the paint, that could completely kill the beading. There is no way of actually knowing if DG105 is still in tact on the paint or not.

Begin with a through cleaning of the paint to see if any water beading returns. If not, ensure all contamination has been removed and then reapply the LSP of your choice.

Let me know if you have any questions.

Zach McGovern
Detailed Image Ask-A-Pro Blog Author
www.AttentiontoDetailingPeoria.com
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      04-17-2016, 12:12 PM   #82
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Hi Zach,

Could you give me some hint which tool and which chemical should i use to clean this and this ?

Thank you in advance.
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      04-18-2016, 08:58 AM   #83
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The best way to clean the heavy build up that accumulates around emblems is to remove the emblems and then thoroughly clean and polish that area.

This article will walk you through how to remove the badges and clean up beneath them...
How to Properly Debadge a Vehicle by Ivan Rajic


You can then decide if you want to reapply the badges or leave them off of the vehicle. If you would like to reapply, you will need some double sided adhesive for installing badges (usually available at your local auto parts store).

Zach McGovern
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      04-18-2016, 09:42 PM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by szabibmw View Post
Hi Zach,

Could you give me some hint which tool and which chemical should i use to clean this and this ?

Thank you in advance.
Szabi,

En a jol bevallt fulpiszkalos modszert hasznalom mosas kozben amikor meg nedves a kocsi. 3-4 fulpiszkaloval siman ki lehet tisztitani.

Egy masik jo megoldas amit ebben a videoban lattam a hegyes hurkapalcikat egy microfiber torlobe fogni, benedvesiteni az emblemat, es azzal korbemenni.

3:35-nel kezdodik

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      04-19-2016, 12:15 PM   #85
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Köszi szépen az ötletet , kipróbálom !
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      04-21-2016, 11:36 PM   #86
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Zach,

I had a few questions regarding clay and sealants.

I started using blackfire wet diamond as my sealant. Should I always clay before I apply sealant? I mainly ask because I don't want to swirl up the paint while applying the sealant as my car unfortunately has to sit outside so it can get quite dirty.

Is it enough to just wipe off quick detailer from claying before applying sealant or would that interfere with the sealant bonding to the paint and I should wash again before applying sealant?

Will clay strip previous sealant/wax off? Should I use a stripping soap before I go to apply more sealant or should I just try to layer it on top of whatever's left after several months? And what if that has had a separate wax on top of the sealant?
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      04-22-2016, 08:21 AM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brettb1234 View Post
Zach,

I had a few questions regarding clay and sealants.

I started using blackfire wet diamond as my sealant. Should I always clay before I apply sealant? I mainly ask because I don't want to swirl up the paint while applying the sealant as my car unfortunately has to sit outside so it can get quite dirty.
It is not necessary to clay before applying the sealant. If your car has a considerable amount of bonded contaminants, it may effect the durability of the sealant. Waxes and sealants work best when applied to clean, bare paint... so if there is a lot of contamination on the surface, the wax or sealant may not last as long as it would on a perfectly clean surface. You should not create swirls in the paint just because you did not clay the car prior to applying the sealant. Remember to always use extremely light pressure when touching the paint (both when applying the sealant and when removing... there is no need for excessive pressure as that can create scratches).

Is it enough to just wipe off quick detailer from claying before applying sealant or would that interfere with the sealant bonding to the paint and I should wash again before applying sealant?
If you are claying the car after it has already been washed and dried, then there is no need to rewash the car after claying in my opinion... however, if you work the claying process into the washing process, it is much easier to give the car a quick wash afterwards. The process would be as follows: Wash Car, Rinse Car, Clay the car when the paint is still wet, then give the car another very quick wash, then rinse again, and now dry. This way you are not wasting your time drying the car twice (once after washing, and another time wiping away all the clay lubricant).

Will clay strip previous sealant/wax off? Should I use a stripping soap before I go to apply more sealant or should I just try to layer it on top of whatever's left after several months? And what if that has had a separate wax on top of the sealant?
The real answer is that there is no way to tell if anything completely strips the previous layer of wax or sealant. I would always recommend using a heavier concentration of shampoo prior to applying a new layer of wax or sealant as that is an easy way to help clean the surface.
See answers above in blue

Zach McGovern
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      04-22-2016, 11:09 AM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Detailed Image View Post
See answers above in blue

Zach McGovern
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www.DetailPeoria.com
Thanks a bunch Zach. Extremely helpful as always
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