[AU335]

Originally Posted by Mr. 5

The mechanic was me and I had no problems installing them.
I've actually done the installation twice.

Also, this is obviously not a DP issue since AU335 and others have the same issue with the stock DPs.

As for the picture, it was taken by someone else with their car..

yeah definitely not a DP issue. Im still on stock DPs and have the exact same noise with a VERY LOOSE wastegate rod.

[SPDFAN]

This is my 5th turbo car, not saying that I know a lot about turbos, but one common thing with all internally gated turbos, like our stock turbos, is that the wastegate parts (diaphram rod, c-clip, flapper, flapper rod) should not slide AT ALL under all conditions, which means everything should be spot on from manufacturer, as well as the compressor & turbine wheels to the shaft connecting the wheels & the bearings around it. I don't know how yours happened, but saying that the engine's vibration causes the problem is a complete joke. It's either your turbo is somehow a defective unit, or improper installation procedure, or the downpipes weren't made perfectly. I would lean towards the downpipe design because I'd seen many pictures where the pipes are touching each other, and when you are boosting, generating 1200+F of heat, even iron would soften a bit, plus the "not-so-well-made" downpipes, everything shifts. My cousin has an 07 335xi, bone stock with 24k on the clock, it sounds and drives like when he took delivery.

[hGX2]

You can find teflon washers at various hardware stores. Cut it and see if you can place it. I would think Teflon is the only item that would take the heat besides a metal washer but of course a metal washer won't flex to push it over the wastegate accuator rod. Worth a try.

[Railgun]

I think some of you are trying to over engineer a solution. It's a design flaw that BMW needs to address. By shoving a clip or something in there is only a band-aid. My theory is that the arm is slowly being backed away from the wastegate journal. By shoving something in there, you may cause the issue to worsen/accelerate and possibly back the arm off altogether. There's no performance hit that I can see as any lateral movement at this point wouldn't affect the operation of the gate itself. It's more a nuisance than anything. Until, that is, it fails completely.

Another theory is that any retaining clip that may exist on the other side of that journal (on the inside of the housing) may be getting loose. That said, the same issue applies. These repairs could end up binding the journal and causing some major issues. Try explaining to BMW why your motor blew when your WG wouldn't open up cause you jammed something in there trying to fix something that they should have fixed themselves.

Just my $.02

[Mr. 5]

Originally Posted by Railgun

I think some of you are trying to over engineer a solution. It's a design flaw that BMW needs to address. By shoving a clip or something in there is only a band-aid. My theory is that the arm is slowly being backed away from the wastegate journal. By shoving something in there, you may cause the issue to worsen/accelerate and possibly back the arm off altogether. There's no performance hit that I can see as any lateral movement at this point wouldn't affect the operation of the gate itself. It's more a nuisance than anything. Until, that is, it fails completely.


Just my $.02

This is why I added in the previous posts that I was worried with how my wastegates got this way.

[Bubbles]

Originally Posted by AU335

yeah definitely not a DP issue. Im still on stock DPs and have the exact same noise with a VERY LOOSE wastegate rod.

What about your limp problems? are they unrelated?

[Mr. 5]

DUDE!, How many times do we have to say that people with stock DPs are having the same issue?

Originally Posted by SPDFAN

This is my 5th turbo car, not saying that I know a lot about turbos, but one common thing with all internally gated turbos, like our stock turbos, is that the wastegate parts (diaphram rod, c-clip, flapper, flapper rod) should not slide AT ALL under all conditions, which means everything should be spot on from manufacturer, as well as the compressor & turbine wheels to the shaft connecting the wheels & the bearings around it. I don't know how yours happened, but saying that the engine's vibration causes the problem is a complete joke. It's either your turbo is somehow a defective unit, or improper installation procedure, or the downpipes weren't made perfectly. I would lean towards the downpipe design because I'd seen many pictures where the pipes are touching each other, and when you are boosting, generating 1200+F of heat, even iron would soften a bit, plus the "not-so-well-made" downpipes, everything shifts. My cousin has an 07 335xi, bone stock with 24k on the clock, it sounds and drives like when he took delivery.

[AU335]

Originally Posted by Bubbles

What about your limp problems? are they unrelated?

Still unsure about what is causing the LIMPs. Had the dealership even pull the codes off of her and check for the problem. They said it was a crimped vacuum hose....but i guess not, because i have got 2 more limps since i got it back from them.

[SPDFAN]

Originally Posted by Mr. 5

DUDE!, How many times do we have to say that people with stock DPs are having the same issue?

Chill out, I was just thinking out loud, and there are numerous threads talking about those downpipes touching, crooked, CEL, etc.. So now we know AU335 has stock exhaust system that does the same thing as yours, then it all boils down to one thing, both of you have defective turbos, or both of you bought a lemon, simple as that. If BMW can't fix it in 3-4 consecutive times, demand a new one. Like another member said, there's no cure for what you and AU335 are experiencing, parts in a turbo should not move in directions they weren't meant to, end of story. God Speed.

[Mr. 5]

Originally Posted by SPDFAN

Chill out, I was just thinking out loud, and there are numerous threads talking about those downpipes touching, crooked, CEL, etc.. So now we know AU335 has stock exhaust system that does the same thing as yours, then it all boils down to one thing, both of you have defective turbos, or both of you bought a lemon, simple as that. If BMW can't fix it in 3-4 consecutive times, demand a new one. Like another member said, there's no cure for what you and AU335 are experiencing, parts in a turbo should not move in directions they weren't meant to, end of story. God Speed.

It wasn't always like that though and there are more and more people that are experiencing the ticking sound.
It's leading me to believe that the wastegates are coming loose after so many miles.
Again, my car is running perfectly with 15 psi of boost at WOT.
It's just that the wastegates are loose.

I'm waiting to hear back from Autotalent to see if they have the turbos off their car still.

[Mr. 5]

When the car is at an idle, the wastegates are open or closed?

When the car is off, the wastegates are open or closed?
Anyone?

[scalbert]

Originally Posted by Mr. 5

When the car is at an idle, the wastegates are open or closed?

When the car is off, the wastegates are open or closed?
Anyone?

Should be:

Closed at idle

Open with the car off

[Mr. 5]

This is so sad.
http://www.bmwtis.com/tsb/bulletins/...p/B111307g.htm

If I brought my car into the dealer then the problem would still be there because they are replacing the actuator and not the actual wastegates.

For those that are wondering why I'm not putting my car back to stock and taking my car into the dealer, this is why.

[SPDFAN]

Originally Posted by Mr. 5

It wasn't always like that though and there are more and more people that are experiencing the ticking sound.
It's leading me to believe that the wastegates are coming loose after so many miles.
Again, my car is running perfectly with 15 psi of boost at WOT.
It's just that the wastegates are loose.

I'm waiting to hear back from Autotalent to see if they have the turbos off their car still.

Hopefully Autotalent still have theirs laying on the ground and are in good condition. Good luck.

If I were you, I would try my best to get the dealer to perform the service bulletin recall on the car, reason is if I were in your shoes, I would be very pissed, and push the envelope to demand a new car from BMW, just my opinion.

[Mr. 5]

Originally Posted by SPDFAN

Hopefully Autotalent still have theirs laying on the ground and are in good condition. Good luck.

If I were you, I would try my best to get the dealer to perform the service bulletin recall on the car, reason is if I were in your shoes, I would be very pissed, and push the envelope to demand a new car from BMW, just my opinion.

Why?
My car is great!
The ticking is disturbing.

[Nick@aep]

I'm glad you figured this out!! Hopefully it gets taken care of soon. I'm shocked that BMW hasnt made a bulletin of this and made it an easy fix yet since it doesnt seem like nearly as serious of an issue as I've heard before (changing turbos/wastegates, etc)

-Nick

[npb]

hopefully i can be of some help. i do not experience the ticking sound. however, it does look like there is some space between the gold piece and the connector.

[cbad335]

Originally Posted by SPDFAN

...if I were in your shoes, I would be very pissed, and push the envelope to demand a new car from BMW, just my opinion.

Good luck w/ that.

[Mr. 5]

Is there any way you can do us a huge favor?
Make sure the engine is cold of course.

Please reach down and see if you can move that back and forth.
Please let us know if there is truly slack there.
I would greatly appreciate it!

Originally Posted by npb

hopefully i can be of some help. i do not experience the ticking sound. however, it does look like there is some space between the gold piece and the connector.

[npb]

another





probably won't get a better picture than this.


engine was warm, so i used a metal rod to see if there was slack. there is a liiittle bit, but nothing that seems too alarming. maybe 1/4 millimeter in each direction?? if that makes sense...
Again, I don't have the rattle sound, but Mr. 5, going back to your original area of concern, perhaps the rattling is not coming from the gap between the gold piece and the teardrop piece, but between the teardrop piece and the rod/connecter

[larryn]

Mr 5, I have a brand new 135i (600 miles), and if I grab the actuator rod and move it around, I can wiggle the teardrop shaped piece about 1-1.5mm, with a rattling noise. I do not have the issue that I heard in your video though.

Apologies if that confuses things, but that's what my car does...

The actuator rod "head" is black on my car, but it looks identical to npb's pics.

[Mr. 5]

hmm.
Thanks guys.

It sounds like I haven't found the problem then and it may be more severe than I initially thought.

If everybody has a little slack then the problem sounds to be more internal.