Its Only 1K....but i can't wait to get my first oil change..there are some pictures during Oil Change...everything worked out very well ,BUT I DIDN'T SEE ANY SILVER METAL WASHER ON DRAIN BOLT??...or it just didn't have it with...

hlom4n - it's about 6.5-7 qts exactly. so if you are using OEM oil from dealership, buy 7 or 8 bottles and pour in 7 bottles exactly (i buy the 8th just in case), and you will have no problem. the first 2 or 3 startups the oil gauge will say less than max line, but don't worry, it will rise to that level especially if you log some miles after oil change.

thanks for info, i do my oil change on 335i but for an e92 328i i know same filter but same oil and capacity as 335i?

I've skimmed through this thread and didnt seem to find the answer to my question.......hope it wasnt discussed already.

Do I have to reset anything after the oil change? I have idrive. Also, if there is a reset option and I do it, will that mean that the count down for the "free" oil change BMW offers be another 15,000 miles from the times that I reset it?

i do not have the idrive, but from what i understand is: NO, you do not reset the counter. if you reset, dealer won't know to give you your free scheduled oil change. (this is if you are doing an oil change BEFORE your actual scheduled interval with the dealer)

You think your dealer is high how about Annapolis BMW in Annapolis Md.
$149.00 plus.... No that's a rip in my as far as I am concerned when everybody else in the area is $110.00 max.. So much for them.

great write, good help to the guys in europe that don't get the free oil changes

And to those of us in the US who keep their car past the warranty!

I decided to try this out since I'm now out of warranty and the last oil change was about $140 at a stealership in connecticut.

I was all set but when I got under the car, the little door protecting the oil drain plug wasn't there and the parts nearby are different on my car than in the thread.

My car is a 2006 325 XI.

I am going to assume that the dealer forgot to replace the door. But I'd feel a lot better if someone could confirm that I have the right bolt.

The first picutre shows a long view, looking from the front toward the back. The bolts are holding a squarish pan that seems to be just below the engine. The second one is a closeup of what I think is the drain plug, with no door.

Remember, this is an XI, so maybe that big pan is related to the AWD system?


[IMG]file:///C:/Users/gvenditto/Pictures/100OLYMP/P8290314.JPG[/IMG][IMG]file:///C:/Users/gvenditto/Pictures/100OLYMP/P8290314.JPG[/IMG]

Attached Images

  

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dalemony
are these all OEM products?

[quote=driverseven;3245464]...I am going to assume that the dealer forgot to replace the door. But I'd feel a lot better if someone could confirm that I have the right bolt.

The first picutre shows a long view, looking from the front toward the back. The bolts are holding a squarish pan that seems to be just below the engine. The second one is a closeup of what I think is the drain plug, with no door.
...QUOTE]

Ya that's the right bolt to drain the engine oil. Your door is busted... looks like the latch lock is broken, making the door hang down and get lost.

Great write up, I used a mann filter and used 6.5 qts of 0w50 Eneos Fully synthetic.

when are we actually suppose to do the oil changes? On my subaru, I did it every 3k miles. On my Idrive it says change oil @ like >10,000 miles... wtfeez.. Is that what the dealer only covers? just 1 oil change ever 10k?

woot Eneos is the only way to go. Great choice

thanks. this helped me today. however 6.5qts only got me to half on oil status screen

u should be fine. after a few more start-ups your display should read full.

thanks guys - first oil change was a success. . . .

Do I want the oil meter to read MAX? i poured about half of the last oil qt in and i'm not at Max. . . a little over the middle between Max and Min. . .

should i dump in the rest?

I'm doing this tomorrow! thanks for taking the time to write it up. The dealer tech (in Germany) told me 5W30 was ok for the car. I bought it they installed. I've driven 200 miles since. I know now it's not the best for the car and will change it myself until I get back to the good old USA.

U will use 17 in socket for the drain bolt. Torq for the drain plug is 25 Nm and the oil filter is 25 NM or 18 ft/lbs

has anyone bought and used either the:

1. quick oil drain valve (quickoildrainvalve.com)?
2. oil pumps (such as mityvac)?

if u have, please provide feedback/review. i can read reviews online, but i wanted more specific feedback with the use of these products on our cars. i have an E90 335i.

THANKS!!

This is probably old news, but I noticed this and would like to chime in...


Fumoto Drain Valve :

On the 335 I :
Oil drain is on the side of the oil pan, and you can use the both the fumoto valve with a nipple, and without the nipple.

On the 335 XI :
Oil drain in on the BOTTOM of the oil pan, facing downwards.
The fumoto valve WITH a nipple will be too long. Do not use this one.
The fumoto valve WITHOUT a nipple will be a tight fit, but the plastic trap door over the oil pan drain will close.

On mine [XI, using NO-NIPPLE fumoto valve], I trimmed the plastic ribbing on the inside of the plastic trap door, so that it would shut without 'bulging'.
You can still shut the door without trimming the inside of it, but it will have a slight bulge as the fumoto valve will press up against it.

FYI : I do not have an 'I', and you may need the 'extender' to make it past the oil pan cavity. Notice that on the 'I', the drain plug is recessed, and when you screw in the valve it may but up against the oil pan without screwing in all the way. For that, there is an extender that you screw in first.
(http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...1&d=1173644812)

Summary :
FUMOTO VALVE WORKS FINE.
I : use versions either with or without nipple (you may need the extender to make it past the recessed oil pan)
XI : use only version WITHOUT nipple (and it's a snug fit. no extender necessary)

-scheherazade

Just wanted to post a HUGE thank you to all who have contributed to this thread.

Just knocked out my car's second oil change with 7,500 miles on the odometer. I went with Red Line 5W40 this time and I used 2-piece Race Ramps which were dead simple to pull my 335i ZSP Coupe up on.

The change went without issue and I found my old Integrated Circuit pullers that I used back in my college days at Georgia Tech made removing the smaller rubber o-ring a piece of cake. If interested anyone should be able to pick up a pair at Radio Shack for ~$2.00.

Thanks again for all the great information!