[scoopdawoop]

I'm looking at the front m3 control arm kit and im wondering if anyone has done just the lower arm that adds camber and not the tension strut?

does the tension strut really make a big difference in handling? besides the understeer i don't have many complaints about the front end. the rear end is where all my complaints are. but specifically what scenario is improved by the m3 tension struts??
the car is a daily and toy, im mostly doing these arms for canyon driving. roads here in the city are pretty bad so i am concerned about nvh.

Also anyone know if the TRW tension struts are okay now?? i know there was quality concerns after they switch production to malaysia and FCP even pulled them from the site for awhile. if they're still junk that probably solves my problem haha.

[335i54n]

do both worth it (steer and brake feel), add more front tire and swaybar, subframe (bush or inserts) and diff bushing upgrades for rear

[scoopdawoop]

Originally Posted by 335i54n

do both worth it (steer and brake feel), add more front tire and swaybar, subframe (bush or inserts) and diff bushing upgrades for rear

i think i may as long as fcp can confirm the quality of the bushings ..

i just did rear inserts, and have a diff brace i could put back on. and m3 sways on the way. i have high hopes for the sways + lca combo hah

[335i54n]

You really need more front tires (245/255, also helps nvh) to maximize the sway (rec front only/open diff). A diff brace helps, but you need solid; to replace the squishy front pair, just feels crisper

[scoopdawoop]

Originally Posted by 335i54n

You really need more front tires (245/255, also helps nvh) to maximize the sway (rec front only/open diff). A diff brace helps, but you need solid; to replace the squishy front pair, just feels crisper

yeah i got new tires last summer and regret not bigger front tires i just did 235/40/18 to match the rears in height.
you're prob right on front sway only lol thats what i thought too but i got good deal on rear so ill try it, i dont mind the labour if i have to go back.

i haven't really looked into diff bushings but i thought that was significant nvh no ?
i did the jxb center support carrier that made shifts feel really nice but i kinda regret it bc of nvh

[kolopn]

Remember when replacing M3 both arms - front (tension struts) are now made in Malaysia and quality is really poor - best way will be to buy normal non-m arm (lemforder is still made in germany) and replace only bushing to M one. I did DIY about that. In Malaysian arms ball joints are made out of chocolate :/

[scoopdawoop]

Originally Posted by kolopn

Remember when replacing M3 both arms - front (tension struts) are now made in Malaysia and quality is really poor - best way will be to buy normal non-m arm (lemforder is still made in germany) and replace only bushing to M one. I did DIY about that. In Malaysian arms ball joints are made out of chocolate :/

thats a good idea. this was my worry, and i had to get them asap while i was in the states so i decided on Meyle HD. rubber bushing like the m3 not fluid filled but bit softer. so idk we'll see how they are 🤷‍♂️

[scoopdawoop]

Originally Posted by kolopn

Remember when replacing M3 both arms - front (tension struts) are now made in Malaysia and quality is really poor - best way will be to buy normal non-m arm (lemforder is still made in germany) and replace only bushing to M one. I did DIY about that. In Malaysian arms ball joints are made out of chocolate :/

ugh i just got the lower arms and 1 is the made in germany and bmw logo scratched off and other is made in malaysia. its just blank.

[kolopn]

So you got 1 original OEM parts, and one let's say not almost OEM. I had two blank ones and they lasted for 3 months. In your position I would return blank one, and ask if supplier has the original one.

[scoopdawoop]

it is FCP. they don't have the original for this side and this one was out of stock forever i've been trying to buy it. i don't really think it should be called "OE" still on the site tbh