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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Mechanical Maintenance: Break-in / Oil & Fluids / Servicing / Warranty > DIY-Changing spark plugs on e90 330i



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      09-27-2008, 03:56 PM   #1
txusa03
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DIY-Changing spark plugs on e90 330i

I decided it is time to change my spark plugs on my 2006 e90 330i with exactly 62,800 miles. I would like to share my experience and create a DIY for it. If you choose to follow this DIY, you agreed that I will not be held responsible/liable for any problems when you attempt your own DIY using this DIY. I am not a mechanic and I should not be held liable for typo errors. Also I would like to say thanks to Evan@Tischer and their crews for the great price on the NGK R5 spark plugs. Also thanks to e.n335 for the inspirational thread http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=142679.

Materials that I used:
Torque wrench (30nm)
Regular wrench
8 inch bar extension
10 inch bar extension
Flat head screw driver
5/16 hex socket
5/8 spark plug socket (Great Neck 12 pt. to be exact)
6 new NGK R5 spark plugs (12120035915)
Anti seize lube (updated)

Also, each number in the photo correspond to the step number.
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      09-27-2008, 03:56 PM   #2
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Step 1. Remove the micro filter. Use the 5/16 hex socket and remove 6 screws and just lift the micro filter housing out.

Step 2. Remove both covers on each side of the micro filter. Each one of these cover has 2 clips and a rubber tie down (red circle), locate and pop both clips loose, then pull the cover up and out of the rubber tie down. With these covers removed, you should see another hex screw (yellow circle) that hold the cowling in place. Remove these last two hex screws as well (one on each side).

Step 3. To remove the cowling you need to pull out the rectangular harness that holds the wiring.
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      09-27-2008, 03:56 PM   #3
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Step 4. Behind the rectangular harness you will see additional wire tubing held on the underside of the cowling. Unclip those 3 clips and pull the wire tubing down

Step 5. Before you remove the cowling, unhook any other wiring that is still attached to the top side of the cowling. Now pull the cowling straight out toward the front of the car and tilt it up a bit as you pull (it helps to wiggle and work each corner loose as you go along).

Step 6. Remove the engine cover, pull the cover straight up and it will pop right out. The alternative would be to use a T-47 size torx screw and unscrew the five torx screws on top of the engine cover.

Now the coils are exposed.
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      09-27-2008, 03:57 PM   #4
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Step 7. Remove the coil. On each coil flip the cap upward (require some force) and pull out the plug. This is where I use the flat head screw driver to help me flip the cap upward. Be extra careful not to damage the cap or coil. I did this to all six coils.

Step 8. Next, pull the coil out. I work on 1 coil at a time. Pull the coil out, loosen the old spark plug. I use a regular wrench with an 8" extension bar to loosen the old spark plug. Toward the back of the engine near the fire wall, you will need a 10" bar extension to remove the last 2 plugs. Once it is loosen, I use my hand to unscrew the plug so that I do not damage the thread.

Step 9. Replace with new spark plug. Apply some anti seize lube onto the threaded part of the plug (Updated). I start to thread in the new plug with my hand until I cannot turn the plug any longer (Screwing in the plug by hand at first ensure that you will not damage the thread). Once I cannot turn the plug, I use the torque wrench set at 30 nm to tight the plug.

Step 10. Put the coil back in and make sure you snap it in place. Then reconnect the coil plug and close the cap. Do this for all 6 plugs. Now repeat step 8-10 for the other 5 plugs.

Step 11. Now put everything back and start the engine and you are done!

Hope I did not leave anything out and hope y’all find this DIY helpful.
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      09-27-2008, 03:57 PM   #5
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Eventhough the computer say I should replace my spark plugs at 100K miles, I am glad I changed them out at 60K miles. Here is the before and after so you can judge for yourself.
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      09-28-2008, 06:10 PM   #6
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nice DIY, why are you changing the spark plug so early?
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      09-28-2008, 07:00 PM   #7
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old plugs look fine, good DIY.
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      09-28-2008, 09:01 PM   #8
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Really, the plugs still looks good. I blame this website then . I don't know, but for under $100 it was worth it since I am keeping this car.

How come e.n335 changed his plugs at 16K miles so I thought I better change mine
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      09-28-2008, 09:44 PM   #9
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Wow the electrode on the old plug is really burned.
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      09-29-2008, 07:42 AM   #10
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Yeah, I noticed that too but if you look at this close up photo it's not as bad and the core of the electrode is still in good condition.
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      09-29-2008, 09:45 AM   #11
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Nice write-up!!!
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      09-29-2008, 10:01 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Evan@Tischer View Post
Nice write-up!!!
Thanks, I blame you for cheap OEM spark plugs
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      10-04-2008, 06:50 AM   #13
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This was a great write up, thanks. Only thing I'd add is using a small amount of anti-seize on the plug threads.

So it looks like you don't need the special plug tool that BMW sells.
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      10-06-2008, 08:37 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ENINTY View Post
This was a great write up, thanks. Only thing I'd add is using a small amount of anti-seize on the plug threads.

So it looks like you don't need the special plug tool that BMW sells.
How difficult would it be to remove these plug later on if I did not use anti-seize

No special tools on 330i except the torque wrench.
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      11-10-2008, 12:04 AM   #15
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can i do this diy with a 325i also?
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      11-10-2008, 08:25 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jammin Jason View Post
can i do this diy with a 325i also?
I don't know what is the difference between the two car but I am sure the process is similar. I would not do this unless you have like over 80K miles because based on others my spark plugs are still good at 60K miles.

How many miles do you have on your car?
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      11-10-2008, 01:12 PM   #17
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28,XXX miles. i know its low but my warrenty is running out in January of 2009. so it would be best for me to learn how to change my own spark plugs rather than paying a grip of $$$ at the dealers for them doing it
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      11-11-2008, 08:53 AM   #18
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so on Jan 2009, you will have 5 years of ownership? If not your free service has not expired yet. And why are you doing your own oil change at 28K miles (I saw your other post) when you can get it done free?

Back to the spark plugs, you have a long way to go before you change the plug so I would not worry about that. But if you have all the tools, it should not be an issue to do it yourself. GL.
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      01-17-2009, 03:27 PM   #19
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where can I get a 5/8 spark plug socket k 12 pt? and For how much?
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      01-17-2009, 05:41 PM   #20
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Spark plug socket can be had at any auto parts store, or sears, and they're not very expensive.
Small correction though; the microfilter bolts are 8mm, not 5/16".
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      02-03-2009, 09:10 AM   #21
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Spark Plug gap

txusa03,

What did you set the spark plug gap to?

Per manufacturer's web page, I found NGK ILZFR6D11 plugs are set for 0.044" and Bosch FR7NP332 are set for 0.040".

Also, both NGK and Bosch are HEX(6 sided) plugs. Why do you need a 12 point 5/8 socket?

Thanks

wallyf

Last edited by WallyF; 02-03-2009 at 10:16 AM. Reason: Updated information
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      04-10-2009, 11:37 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WallyF View Post
txusa03,

What did you set the spark plug gap to?

Per manufacturer's web page, I found NGK ILZFR6D11 plugs are set for 0.044" and Bosch FR7NP332 are set for 0.040".

Also, both NGK and Bosch are HEX(6 sided) plugs. Why do you need a 12 point 5/8 socket?

Thanks

wallyf
sorry bud you should have sent me PM as I don't frequent this site that often. If it is not too late, I did not check the gap You know me, I am not too mechanically savy but thanks for pointing that out for other members.

I got the plugs from Tischer and thought it was gap for my car? I think a 12 point socket has thinner wall so you can fit into the chamber. But so far, car run great ever since I had changed the plug.
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