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BMW MOST Ipod Adapter (redux)
Published by FrankoQ
11-09-2008
BMW MOST Ipod Adapter (redux)

Instructions to install the MOST ipod interface adapter for cars with Idrive.
MOST interface Part # 65 11 0 036 446
I got it from Tischer BMW

EvanL created a DIY here:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30079

I followed those instructions and took more notes and pictures of the process.
Bellow is my log.

Prepare the tools.
- printed instructions for the install
- laptop with E90post
- Eve to keep an eye on me.
- MOST interface kit

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First note: DOUBLE check the parts in the kit. Make sure ALL the parts are there.

The battleground showing my current setup for the ipod.
Cable runs by the side of the center console to the center aux plug.
I have an ijet remote control glued to the back of the steering wheel.
See this thread for details:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...highlight=ijet

I’ll be selling this remote once I’m done. If you want it, send me a PM.

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Start the work…
1) disconnect the Negative from the Battery

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2) remove top trim. I don’t want to repeat what others have posted. So…
I refer you to some other DIY for these steps:
TVandNav2Go
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23576

Radio removal (non idrive)
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9390

The above DIYs will help you remove top trim, climate controls, face plate for radio head unit, and the radio head unit.
This took 35 minutes.

Some pics I took…

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Continues in next post...
__________________

I need a drink

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  #1  
By FrankoQ on 11-09-2008, 07:27 AM
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3) Once the head unit is out, unplug 5 wire harnesses.
Watch out! These are not simple “pull to unplug”. Most have some side tab to press or push before you pull on them.
Some pics to illustrate…

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4) once wires are undone, put the head unit in a safe place.
This is what you end up with.

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You are now done removing/unplugging things from the center console.
It’s time to work on the glove box.

5) Remove under tray. You need a T20 torx screwdriver. 2 screws and the thing comes out. Notice the wire to unplug before you put this piece out of the way.

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6) Remove 4 screws holding the lower glove piece to the rail (2 on either side).

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  #2  
By FrankoQ on 11-09-2008, 07:28 AM
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7) remove pin holding door of glove box to the roof of the glove box.
Use needle nose pliers to grab the right side and then just push to the left.

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8) Remove the glove box door by pulling on it. This is what you end up with.

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9) Six T20 torx screws hold the upper piece of the glove box. Remove them all
To remove the upper glove box piece.
Careful as there is some wiring to undo here.
There are 4 wire harness pieces to unplug. See arrows in the pic for location.

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10) Remove the 2 cup holders. Again, someone had a DIY for it so here is the link: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...7&postcount=16

The entire removal of the glove box took 35 minutes.

11) Take a break. The battle ground looks like this now.

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12) Not a step but a curious note…
While inspecting the area, I find a spider web!!! What the!…
Oh well. All clean now and no sign of the spider.

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  #3  
By FrankoQ on 11-09-2008, 07:28 AM
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At this point, we must follow the instructions found here:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...32&postcount=7

Some of the steps in the instructions are over simplified. So, I’ll go into more detail for some of them.

13) Finding a place for the MOST interface box is the first tricky step.
See the pic below. The red ellipse shows you where the instructions indicate to put the box. The blue ellipse shows you where I put mine.
The problem with the location from the instructions is that the box could interfere with the installation of the top of the glove box. By installing it to the left, you minimize that risk.

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14) Once you decide on where to put it, you need to set up the cable ties that will hold the box. Here are they ready to receive the box and hold it.

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15) Time to finish the installation of the box.

See the pic below. Notice the 2 red “X” Make sure there is no cable ties in this area. The glove box top piece has 2 tabs that sits on this area. Keep this area clear.

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Time to find a proper place and install interface box: 20 minutes.
Last edited by FrankoQ; 11-09-2008 at 07:45 AM.
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  #4  
By FrankoQ on 11-09-2008, 07:28 AM
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Time to work on the top piece of the glove box.

16) Drill the holes as indicated on the instructions.
I did not have the proper drill bit, but I used the one on the pic and a dremel tool.
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17) This is the finished hole. See red circle.

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18) The instructions say to pass this cable thru the grommet. That’s a small hole for that big head… (Don’t get funny ideas)

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19) I cut the grommet from the inner hole to the outer ring. This way, I was able to get the wire in there.

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20) install the cable with the grommet.
View from above.

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Notice the red arrow in the pic below.
This is the tab that sits on the cross bar I was mentioning on step 15

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View from inside the glove box.

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21) Install a cable tie thru the small hole as indicated in the instructions.

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Last edited by FrankoQ; 11-09-2008 at 07:59 AM.
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  #5  
By FrankoQ on 11-09-2008, 07:29 AM
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We are now done prepping the top of the glove box. This took about 20 minutes

We now move to the wiring part of this install.

22) This is the wire harness to work on.
Circles in red indicate the wires to remove.
The instructions indicate to “remove” these 2 wires.
Not as easy as it sounds.
You don’t just pull on them from the harness.

The red “X” indicate 2 wire harnesses within the main wire harness.
These 2 can be removed to give you more room to work on the other wires.
I strongly suggest you do this to give you room to work.

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23) Back view of the harness. Red arrows indicate the 2 wires to remove.

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24) To remove wires from the harness, you need to remove this blue piece from the harness first. Use the smallest flat head screw driver you can find.
Per the numbers in the pics:
1- push down on this tab
2- push out on the direction of arrow 3 and remove the blue piece completely.

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25) Once the blue piece is removed, you will be able to remove the 2 wires.
Install the new ones from the interface wiring.

26) install the removed wires in this piece and continue to follow the directions.

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27) connect the new built plug to the one in the interface kit.

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28) Now to the fiber optics wiring.
Remove this piece from the main harness.
The green wire needs to go.
To remove it, use a small flat head screw driver and push on the blue middle piece.
Once that is out, you can remove the green wire.

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29) Continue the wiring instructions for the fiber optics wires.

30) Re assemble the main wire harness.

At this point, all wiring is done, all new connections are done.
All this wiring took the most time. I finished it in 1 hour.
It took me a long time because I spent a LOT of time figuring out how
To remove current cables from harness. Not as easy as just “pull” on the wire.
But with these instructions, it should be much easier for the next person doing this mod.
Last edited by FrankoQ; 11-09-2008 at 08:03 AM.
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  #6  
By FrankoQ on 11-09-2008, 07:29 AM
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It’s time to put all this back together…

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Take a break before you start.

Actually, I'm gonna leave it like this and take it to the dealer this way.
In case something goes bad in programming, they can easily check the
hardware install.

31) Now take the car back to the dealer for coding and programming and hope that all goes well.
Last edited by FrankoQ; 11-10-2008 at 06:46 AM.
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  #7  
By FrankoQ on 11-09-2008, 07:29 AM
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11/10/08 9AM.
I took the car to the dealer for programming.
Let's hope all goes well!

11/10/08 3:45PM
The dealer just called. Programming/coding done!!!

I'm going to get the car in a few.


10/11/08 6PM.
Success!!! All working fine. Cost to program/code: $120
Last edited by FrankoQ; 11-10-2008 at 07:11 PM.
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  #8  
By FrankoQ on 11-09-2008, 07:29 AM
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Pics of my final set up.

I also added the BMW plug that connects to the flashlight charger.
Then, I added a USB charger cable and ran it behind the glove box
down to the center console. This way, I can charge my iphone.


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Here is the final set up.

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Last edited by FrankoQ; 11-11-2008 at 10:36 AM.
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  #9  
By FrankoQ on 11-09-2008, 07:30 AM
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The interface works great!
It takes a few seconds to load information from the ipod.
Once loaded, it works fine and fast.
I'm just using CD1 which is for the playlists.

I can control the next song, previous song from the steering wheel buttons.

The sound quality has improved so much.

Last edited by FrankoQ; 11-11-2008 at 10:40 AM.
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  #10  
By FrankoQ on 11-09-2008, 07:30 AM
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Pic of the screen...

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Last edited by FrankoQ; 11-11-2008 at 10:37 AM.
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  #11  
By ncoig on 11-09-2008, 11:37 AM
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I wonder if I'm REMOVING the adapter if i will wreak havoc on my system???

-N
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  #12  
By skibbs on 11-09-2008, 10:28 PM
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Does anyone know what the differences are between the different iPod kits,#65110036446 for ~$256 and #65110403650 for ~$280?
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  #13  
By enforcerman on 11-09-2008, 11:55 PM
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The kit you buy depends on what car you have and when it was made. I bought mine from Tischer and when I ordered the part I gave them my VIN and they made sure I received the part for my car. FYI: I own a 2007 328i (01/07 production) and the kit I had installed was 65 11 0 036 446.
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  #14  
By skibbs on 11-10-2008, 01:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enforcerman View Post
The kit you buy depends on what car you have and when it was made. I bought mine from Tischer and when I ordered the part I gave them my VIN and they made sure I received the part for my car. FYI: I own a 2007 328i (01/07 production) and the kit I had installed was 65 11 0 036 446.
Good to know - I'll call and order then, thanks!
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  #15  
By enforcerman on 11-10-2008, 01:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skibbs View Post
Good to know - I'll call and order then, thanks!
You can also PM either of the Tischer guys. If you have AIM they answer that all day long and they can make sure you get the right part. They are so helpful. Its like having a parts guy you can bug all day long.
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  #16  
By FrankoQ on 11-10-2008, 06:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skibbs View Post
Does anyone know what the differences are between the different iPod kits,#65110036446 for ~$256 and #65110403650 for ~$280?
Jason at Tischer told me that 65110036446 is the new unit.
It replaces 65110403650.
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  #17  
By FrankoQ on 11-10-2008, 03:46 PM
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The car is ready!!! I'm going to pick it up now.
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  #18  
By ncoig on 11-10-2008, 04:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankoQ View Post
Jason at Tischer told me that 65110036446 is the new unit.
It replaces 65110403650.
Well, if anyone needs the unit for the 2006, let me know, it will be available in a few weeks.

-N
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  #19  
By FrankoQ on 11-10-2008, 07:11 PM
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Success!!! All working fine. Cost to program/code: $120
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  #20  
By enforcerman on 11-10-2008, 08:24 PM
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Interesting. I had mine installed and coded for less than 100.
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  #21  
By FrankoQ on 11-10-2008, 09:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enforcerman View Post
Interesting. I had mine installed and coded for less than 100.
Lucky you.
I'm glad the dealer did not bark at me for doing the install myself.

Due to the programming/coding, I lost my radio presets and steering wheel button sets. I just finished redoing that and putting all the trim back together.
Pics of final setup tomorrow.
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