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Hartge replica lip installation
Published by FrankoQ
08-27-2006
Hartge replica lip installation

Well, the lip does not fit 100%
As a result, you need to trim here and there. It all depends on how it fits
on your car.

1) Remove the accent bars
for instructions on that, look here:
http://e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28099

2) attach lip to see where you need to trim.
I used painter's tape (blue tape) to mark where to trim.
This picture shows how much I had to trim on one pillar.
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3) also mark where you need to drill holes for the underside of the car.
There are 3 screws to hold it in place from the bottom.

I did not know what to use to trim, but Thanks to lux.sh
I got myself a dremel tool. Very handy.
Name:  dremel.JPG
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4) remove the lip and go ahead with the trimming and drilling.

5) Apply the double side tape to hold the top of the lip to the car.
Name:  tape.JPG
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6) install the lip

7) re-install the accent bars.
Note: you might need to trim them down. I did not trim them.
they fit very tight but that helped secure the lip pillars.

Here is the final product.
Name:  final1.JPG
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Name:  final2.JPG
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Good luck.
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  #1  
By Chesmu on 08-27-2006, 10:28 PM
that looks really nice. Great job.
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  #2  
By ZuerstBMW on 08-27-2006, 10:34 PM
Nice job, looks great
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  #3  
By neuronpetkowski on 08-27-2006, 11:01 PM
looks awesome. waiting to get mine to from DTM...
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  #4  
By achal on 08-28-2006, 05:06 AM
Hey Frank....

Looks awsome man...good work...
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  #5  
By KL2DC on 08-28-2006, 09:38 AM
Finally able to see pics...

Frank, car and new lip looks awesome!! I always thought these lips were plug and play, didn't know a lot of trimming/sanding work was required. I'll be sure to give you a call if I ever order one That's some fine DIY'ing, there pardner....
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  #6  
By FrankoQ on 08-28-2006, 11:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KL2DC
Finally able to see pics...

Frank, car and new lip looks awesome!! I always thought these lips were plug and play, didn't know a lot of trimming/sanding work was required. I'll be sure to give you a call if I ever order one That's some fine DIY'ing, there pardner....
I also thought they were snap on and that's it.
That's kind of why I posted this DIY. Now others can see the kind of
work involved.
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  #7  
By txusa03 on 08-29-2006, 08:39 AM
nice work... what is next?
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  #8  
By dtmryan on 08-29-2006, 11:24 AM
thanks for the DIY. looks good
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  #9  
By FrankoQ on 08-29-2006, 01:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by txusa03
nice work... what is next?
I'm going "No more mods" until xmas.
My wallet needs to heal for a while.
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  #10  
By KL2DC on 08-29-2006, 01:40 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankoQ
I'm going "No more mods" until xmas.
My wallet needs to heal for a while.
What about winter wheels/tires setup?
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  #11  
By FrankoQ on 08-29-2006, 01:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KL2DC
What about winter wheels/tires setup?
Stop it.
I might have to ban myself from this site.
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  #12  
By KL2DC on 08-29-2006, 01:54 PM
You know what your ride needs....blacklines ... and 12mm rear spacers....
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  #13  
By FrankoQ on 08-29-2006, 01:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KL2DC
You know what your ride needs....blacklines ... and 12mm rear spacers....
MUST SAY NO...MUST SAY NO...MUST SAY NO...MUST SAY NO...MUST SAY NO...MUST SAY NO...MUST SAY NO...MUST SAY NO...MUST SAY NO...MUST SAY NO...MUST SAY NO...MUST SAY NO...MUST SAY NO...MUST SAY NO...MUST SAY NO...MUST SAY NO...MUST SAY NO...MUST SAY NO...MUST SAY NO...MUST SAY NO...MUST SAY NO...MUST SAY NO...MUST SAY NO...MUST SAY NO...
where did you get your spacers?
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  #14  
By KL2DC on 08-29-2006, 01:58 PM
why stop now, you just a little bit short of utter perfection

Rogue Engineering's the way to go for spacers, awesome quality and customer service and they all come with the required lug bolts.

http://www.rogueengineering.com/Merc...tegory_Code=WH

$110 for the pair plus s/h
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  #15  
By lux.sh on 08-29-2006, 06:08 PM
you guys are all evil.
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  #16  
By Boondoggler on 10-24-2006, 12:08 PM
I have a question, I just received my Hartge lip from DTM and there are no holes drilled in the bottom of it to screw it into the bumper? Am I missing something?
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  #17  
By FrankoQ on 10-24-2006, 04:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boondoggler
I have a question, I just received my Hartge lip from DTM and there are no holes drilled in the bottom of it to screw it into the bumper? Am I missing something?
My lip was the same and there were no marks as to where to make the holes.
I had to drill the holes myself.
what I did was:
fit the lip on the car and then go underneath to measure where to make
the holes. I was able to make the holes right under the bolts that were
going to hold the lip in place.

Frank
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  #18  
By Boondoggler on 10-25-2006, 02:01 PM
I've test fitted my lip to my car. A note to others, you may want to cover the portion of your stock bumper with thick scotch packaging tape if you want to avoid scuffing it up during the test fitting. to get the lip on you need to start at one wheel well, and then move across the bumper sliding it over the closest pillar, then the next pillar, then pull in into the other wheel well.

I trimmed a little off of the lip on the two pillars to make it fit better, but still find the top of the lip on the pillars to be a concern. It just seems to me that they won't be totally flush when it's taped on and will stand out. Does anyone have any close up pictures of the areas I've circled in red in the picture below on their car so I can see how their install looks? I also showed a closeup, but remember, it's not taped yet, if I push it hard against the bumper it is slightly better.

Also, take a look at the picture of the OEM hartge lip, and you'll notice those areas have a totally smooth transition. Has anyone been able to duplicate this when installing the replica lip? Do you think they had those area's filled with bondo/filler and then repainted the whole bumper to get that smooth transition look?



Closeup on the top edge of the left pillar

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  #19  
By OC 335i on 10-25-2006, 05:56 PM
How much is the replica vs. the real one?
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  #20  
By Boondoggler on 11-12-2006, 01:41 PM
While I think I may be the only one who cares about it, it was really buggin me, so here is DIY on how I dealt with the gaps on the pillars (note: I jump back and forth between the left and right pillars in the pictures as I picked the photos that were least blurry):

Here is the before pic of the wide gap at the top of the pillar that I didn't like. IMO when you were standing in front of the car, looking down at the front bumper, these gaps gave the lip a bit of a cheap, aftermarket, "slapped on" look:



I went to Pep Boys and bought some bumper repair epoxy from Bondo for about $5.00. Like all epoxy products, it comes with two tubes that you have to mix together, and then it starts to cure and harden. I thought this would be a good product as it was both flexible when it was dry, and could be painted. It is also black, and I have a dark monaco blue car, so I thought that would help. I tested several solvents to see what would work to clean the epoxy off the lip/bumper, and found that Acetone worked well:



To apply the bumper epoxy, I used toothpicks and some popsicle sticks trimmed to a point:



To avoid making a mess all over the bumper/lip I used painters tape.



As you apply the bumper epoxy, be liberal with it. While it is still liquid, it will seep down into the gap, so keep applying it until it no longer seeps down, then you can use the sticks to smooth it out and remove as much excess as possible. You have to work quickly, as it gets pretty stiff in about 5 minutes. As it starts to stiffen, about 2-3 minutes from the time you apply it, you'll want to remove the painters tape. I was afraid if it was left on after the epoxy had totally set up, it would pull the epoxy out once it was removed. Prior to removing the painters tape, lightly soak an area of a cloth towel (not a paper towel or cotton ball as they will leave paper/cotton residue stuck to the curing epoxy) with acetone and smooth out the epoxy removing additional excess epoxy. Remove the tape and continue to clean up the area with the acetone soaked cloth. Be careful not to overdo it with the acetone as it can cloud your clearcoat and require you to go back later and buff the clearcoat.

Here is how it came out:



My original plan was to paint the bumper epoxy with several layers of touch-up paint and a couple layers of clear coat. But at this point, it looks so good, that I think I have a better chance of making it look worse with touch-up than better. Having a very dark car, and the fact that the bumper epoxy is black, makes me think I should just leave it as it is.

If you have either a black or monaco blue car, and have installed the Hartge lip and have the gap issue I had, this is a great way to improve the look. I'm very pleased with how it came out.
Last edited by Boondoggler; 11-12-2006 at 05:12 PM.
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  #21  
By FrankoQ on 11-12-2006, 06:35 PM
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Outstanding job.
I was thinking of removing my lip to add more double side tape to try to
close that gap.
Now, thanks to you, I know what I need to do.
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