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      05-31-2009, 09:18 PM   #1
Bonefish
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Wax and sealant question for SG..Help

I have an 08 SG 335 Sedan. I did some research on best waxes and sealants but, wanted to follow up with some help from all of you in particuliar those who have SG cars.



Best wax for our color? I see Dodo Juice alot and Natty Blue. But, are these it? I think I like the hard wax as opposed to the soft. Thinking maybe Dodo Juice Supernatrual or Blue Velvet...Anyway let me know!

Sealants....I have no information really here? What did you use? Is it even neccesary?

QD/QD w/wax. I like the Poorboys stuff but, wondered if anyone with SG...has more suggestions.

I appreciate your help in advance. I did do searchs but, with this stuff I want to know what works best on our color as opposed to dark or light cars. Although I will take suggestions from any one! Thanks to all who respond. I need to detail the car and will be putting together a nice grouping of products to get started.
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      05-31-2009, 10:18 PM   #2
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Waxes easiest to apply and remove. Sits on top of paint. Will only last about a month.

Depending on sealant it can last up to 6 months. Paint must be absolutely clean before application since sealant bonds to paint. You must wait for sealant to cure (up to 24 hours) before buffing layer.

Waxes can be used on top of sealants but sealants on top of wax can have problems bonding to paint.

Do not confuse QD with waxing. QD is only for touch ups between waxing/sealant.

Always apply thin coats. Layering thin coats provide best results. A shot of QD on applicator helps spread coat.

Debating shine of wax vs sealant is worse than the chevy vs ford pickup debate. FWIW, metallics and light colors look better with sealants, darks look better with wax.


I use Zaino sealant once a month alterating Z2 with Z5. I mix 1oz ZFX activation to get about 2 coats each time.

On rims, I use Poorboy's Wheel Sealant. Easiest to get dust off.
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      05-31-2009, 11:00 PM   #3
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I use Zaino (sealant), too, but I have to admit that Carnauba wax looks better/deeper on dark colors than sealant. The problem with wax is you have to reapply it all the time. For wax, I like the look of Natty's Blue and it's inexpensive.

Everyone has his own opinion about what looks best, but here are some good waxes for dark colors like SG (or my black): Chemical Guys 50/50 Paste Wax, P21S Concours Look Carnauba Wax, Pinnacle Souveran Carnauba Paste Wax, Poorboy's World Natty's Blue Paste Wax.
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      05-31-2009, 11:14 PM   #4
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Poorboy's Natty's Blue or Dodo Purple Haze are awesome waxes on dark colors, I really like both. Dodo Supernatural is also fantastic (but more expensive) - I haven't tried it personally yet.

CG Jetseal is a good overall sealant. As MenTul said, apply it as thin as possible and follow the instructions. It will give you a few months of protection. Poorboy's Wheel Wax is great stuff too. Makes the wheels shine and future cleanups easier.
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      06-01-2009, 01:12 AM   #5
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here's my duragloss 105 (sealant) topped with victoria red concours





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      06-01-2009, 07:17 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MenTul View Post
Waxes easiest to apply and remove. Sits on top of paint. Will only last about a month.

Depending on sealant it can last up to 6 months. Paint must be absolutely clean before application since sealant bonds to paint. You must wait for sealant to cure (up to 24 hours) before buffing layer.

Waxes can be used on top of sealants but sealants on top of wax can have problems bonding to paint.

Do not confuse QD with waxing. QD is only for touch ups between waxing/sealant.

Always apply thin coats. Layering thin coats provide best results. A shot of QD on applicator helps spread coat.




Debating shine of wax vs sealant is worse than the chevy vs ford pickup debate. FWIW, metallics and light colors look better with sealants, darks look better with wax.


I use Zaino sealant once a month alterating Z2 with Z5. I mix 1oz ZFX activation to get about 2 coats each time.

On rims, I use Poorboy's Wheel Sealant. Easiest to get dust off.
Thanks for you help. I understand the difference between QD and waxing. I probably should have stated this a little better. I do a wax a couple times a year but, after each wash I QD after drying and sometimes I do a QD wax to just help the basic wax last a little longer. At least on previous cars it seemed to look good and add depth. I have worked with alot of products and really just wanted to see what the latest and greatest ways. IT seems detail products are updated with better stuff about every week. Kind of like computers..what you buy today is not as good as what you buy tomorrow.

Car is not in a garage now but, will be in about 21 days..as my g/f leased car goes back and I get the garage.

With regard to sealant...when you say absolutely clean car. My car was bought on 01312009...it has sat out side since then due to above. Can I just wash it and that would be absolute clean or are you saying..I need to clay it then use a sealant?

Thanks for all your help!
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      06-01-2009, 07:18 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpecC View Post
here's my duragloss 105 (sealant) topped with victoria red concours





Looks NICE!
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      06-01-2009, 07:24 AM   #8
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Thanks everyone for your help! I am going to do some purchasing tonight. Not sure yet on the sealant part....I need to know more about the absolute clean part. Not sure I really want to clay the car yet given it is only 5 months old and only 900 miles on the OD. I'll wash the car and check the feel of the paint.

If the paint feels good...smooth and looks good should I assume it is clean enough to do sealant? If you were to do sealant and needed more than a wash..do you mean clay bar and something else more? If so..what is the more part?

Thanks again!
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      06-01-2009, 07:30 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bonefish View Post
Thanks everyone for your help! I am going to do some purchasing tonight. Not sure yet on the sealant part....I need to know more about the absolute clean part. Not sure I really want to clay the car yet given it is only 5 months old and only 900 miles on the OD. I'll wash the car and check the feel of the paint.

If the paint feels good...smooth and looks good should I assume it is clean enough to do sealant? If you were to do sealant and needed more than a wash..do you mean clay bar and something else more? If so..what is the more part?

Thanks again!
Definitely need to clay bar the car before the sealant. The paint may feel clean, but wait until you clay it.
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      06-01-2009, 07:33 AM   #10
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Definitely need to clay bar the car before the sealant. The paint may feel clean, but wait until you clay it.
Thanks Paul...I kind of figured that would be the case...That may come at a different time. Once I get my garage back and do this while letting the car sit inside then come back and do the wax next day.

By the way...did you do sealant on your car? What type? And what wax do you use?
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      06-01-2009, 07:37 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bonefish View Post
If the paint feels good...smooth and looks good should I assume it is clean enough to do sealant? If you were to do sealant and needed more than a wash..do you mean clay bar and something else more? If so..what is the more part?

Thanks again!
You def have to clay the car if you are going to apply sealant IMO. No sense it applying something that is not totally clean. You will be suprised how much "stuff" comes off your car with the clay. I have only used Jetseal so I cannot comment on the others but I love it. Very easy to apply and take off. These are the steps I would do:

1. Wash
2. Clay
3. Wash
4. Seal
5. Wax - Some do some don't. Probably up to you

And since you are doing this to the paint, I would go ahead and do these steps on the rims. You will really pull some crap off those! Hope this helps!
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      06-01-2009, 08:25 AM   #12
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for a sealant, i strongly, strongly recommend DG105 for its durability and cost. 11 dollars for 6 months of protection is insane!

for a wax, i'd recommend something in the collinites. they're cheap and pretty good in terms of looks and durability. I don't know about the durability of the victoria red yet, but i really like how it looks

another good wax is CG 5050. that one gives a very nice wet look. I wouldn't spend more than $50 dollars on a wax if i weren't a detailer though. CG 5050 and victoria red are around $50. I'd say victoria red is far superior than anything in that price range that i've tried so far
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      06-01-2009, 08:57 AM   #13
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Thanks all! Just placed a nice order with Detailed Image...I'll be posting up what I think after usage...and probably buying more stuff soon!
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      06-01-2009, 09:47 AM   #14
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Wash it, then put your hand in a new sandwich bag and gently wipe your hand, then decide if you need to clay it (yes, you will!)
If you're trying things out, clay the hood, use sealant A. Next weekend clay the roof, use sealant B, etc. That way you're not totally tied a whole weekend doing it, and get to try some things out and decide what looks best to YOU.
Oh, and pull those wheels, clean/clay, and get PB wheel wax on them. You will be much happier in a few months!
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      06-01-2009, 07:16 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bonefish View Post
With regard to sealant...when you say absolutely clean car. My car was bought on 01312009...it has sat out side since then due to above. Can I just wash it and that would be absolute clean or are you saying..I need to clay it then use a sealant?
It is very likely that the car was waxed by the dealer as part of delivery. You need to remove this wax prior to sealing. Sealant bonds with paint not wax.

This means, wash with dishwashing soap (Zaino recommends Dawn), clay with a non-wax QD (I use ONR), wash again. Dry. Then polish and seal.

This will be the only time you should ever use dishwashing soap since it will strip sealants as well as wax.
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      06-02-2009, 07:00 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MenTul View Post
It is very likely that the car was waxed by the dealer as part of delivery. You need to remove this wax prior to sealing. Sealant bonds with paint not wax.

This means, wash with dishwashing soap (Zaino recommends Dawn), clay with a non-wax QD (I use ONR), wash again. Dry. Then polish and seal.

This will be the only time you should ever use dishwashing soap since it will strip sealants as well as wax.

Thanks..

Most QD will state they have wax right? I assume if it just says QD..it does not have wax on it. I have never read ingridents in the QD. Just how to use.

So..you mention polish which no one else has. Polish with what? Your suggestions? Is it absolutely necessary? After polish would you QD the car then seal?
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      06-02-2009, 08:10 AM   #17
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Quote:
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Most QD will state they have wax right? I assume if it just says QD..it does not have wax on it. I have never read ingridents in the QD. Just how to use.
There are products like spray wax, wax as you dry and wax detailers. Avoid them if you want to seal. QD is not mandatory. Diluted car shampoo works as well.

Quote:
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So..you mention polish which no one else has. Polish with what? Your suggestions? Is it absolutely necessary? After polish would you QD the car then seal?
With the paint stripped of wax and clayed, its the best time to do a polish if you want.

Optional. Some folks will polish a new car to reduce orange peel. Although your car is still newish, parking outside and simple use could create scratches that will show up more after sealing. Don't bother if you are not comfortable with a RO buffer like PC or Flex. Hand polishing is too much effort for an inferior result.

Don't QD after polish. You might want to wipe down diluted isopropyl alcohol to remove any polishing oils left behind.

Optionally, you can use a prewax cleaner and/or glaze prior to sealing step.
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      06-02-2009, 08:16 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MenTul View Post
There are products like spray wax, wax as you dry and wax detailers. Avoid them if you want to seal. QD is not mandatory. Diluted car shampoo works as well.



With the paint stripped of wax and clayed, its the best time to do a polish if you want.

Optional. Some folks will polish a new car to reduce orange peel. Although your car is still newish, parking outside and simple use could create scratches that will show up more after sealing. Don't bother if you are not comfortable with a RO buffer like PC or Flex. Hand polishing is too much effort for an inferior result.

Don't QD after polish. You might want to wipe down diluted isopropyl alcohol to remove any polishing oils left behind.

Optionally, you can use a prewax cleaner and/or glaze prior to sealing step.
Thanks man!

I'll probably pass as I don't have a buffer and feel I would want to practice before doing this to an expensive car. I may clean and wax for now..then come back to the sealant thing. Waiting to get my g/f car out of the garage so, I can put mine in. Then I can do all this and take my time..not worrying about outside elements!
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