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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > DIY Guides > DIY: Charcoal filter removal



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adr's Avatar DIY: Charcoal filter removal
adr
06-04-2006
I have been reading the discussion in this thread (http://e90post.com/forums/showthread...=carbon+filter) for a while. Since no one post DIY yet, I decided to do it myself.

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  #44  
By ///Matt on 11-10-2006, 09:42 AM
I already did this, a couple weeks ago.
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  #45  
By JIMD1709 on 11-11-2006, 12:32 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by uhaulball
hey guys i wanna go ahead and attempt this this tomorrow. i really dont know what im doing?

some questions. where can i get the KN filter, and must i install it, some people seem to not have done so.

some people said they had to clean something after certain milage after this filter delete? why do you have to do that, if you didnt have to prior to the delete?

also, could i do this delete, and then at a later point in time, get an aftermarket intake? or is this filter PART of the intake, which wont even be there if i got an intake?

thanks
No, you don't clean it after any milage. When you cut the the filter out it will leave dust all over the filter box. Then of course sanding leaves some dust as well. It will be obvious to you once you do it that you have to wipe all the dust off, and esspecially out of the intake box! No biggie, but you'll see what I mean....

The K&N can be found online, or almost any auto parts store. Do a search here and you'll get the info. including part number. The filter has to be cleaned and re-oiled, but at a reccommended 50,000 miles. They sell the cleaner kit with both and fool-proof instructions. Simple stuff really.

BTW Greeney, how'd you make out?
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  #46  
By ///Matt on 11-11-2006, 12:43 PM
I actually don't recommend the K&N, after thinking about it. The oil from the filter, if you accidentaly over-oil it, can get on the MAF and ruin it. If you go in for an engine complaint, and it's your maf, and you have a K&N filter, the dealers going to ask you for several hundred dollars for a new MAF. =(
Matt
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  #47  
By Boondoggler on 11-12-2006, 06:20 PM
The dremel idea was great, you use one of the sanding cylinders and it really takes the ragged edges of the charcoal filter off the inside edges of the airbox quickly. I used a K&N, and wiped down the excess oil from the rubber edges. Based on //Matt's comment, I'll be extra careful when I refresh it to make sure it's not over oiled.
Last edited by Boondoggler; 11-13-2006 at 10:32 AM.
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  #48  
By JIMD1709 on 11-13-2006, 10:30 AM
You shouldn't have a problem with oil contamination. I have used K&N filters for many years, and several applications. It won't pull oil through unless severly over-oiled. I used it on a Yamaha R-1, and inspected the airbox often. Never any oil on the inside of the box. That was a 1 litre engine pulling 180 horsepower with ram-air. That filter was exposed to un-godly amounts of volume and flow stress!! No issues. Also have used one on a turbo engine, with higher air-box pressures, and a wickedly sensitive MAF sensor (VW). No issues there either. I had heard abouth issues on the E39 with K&N's, but there ere issues without the K&N as well. So, it's just a bad design of the sensor that was blamed on the K&N I'm sure.
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  #49  
By oneshare325 on 12-10-2006, 10:55 AM
Ok I did mine like a week ago (and I cleaned it really well so i know stuff didn't get in the engine) but my car is running like crap...I have a dead spot from 1 to 4k RPM...It is really noticable..I reset the odo when I did it, and I now have 70 miles on it and it still runs like crap. I read somepeople disconnected the battery to make the ECU reset or something....I didn't do that till last night...I disconnected the battery all night and I havn't driven it yet today So i don't know if it fixed that...It is really bad...can someone help me out? Anyone have a part number for the airbox side with the crarcol filter, I might have to get a new one and take it in?? HELP!!
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  #50  
By nyc3r on 12-10-2006, 11:22 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by oneshare325
Ok I did mine like a week ago (and I cleaned it really well so i know stuff didn't get in the engine) but my car is running like crap...I have a dead spot from 1 to 4k RPM...It is really noticable..I reset the odo when I did it, and I now have 70 miles on it and it still runs like crap. I read somepeople disconnected the battery to make the ECU reset or something....I didn't do that till last night...I disconnected the battery all night and I havn't driven it yet today So i don't know if it fixed that...It is really bad...can someone help me out? Anyone have a part number for the airbox side with the crarcol filter, I might have to get a new one and take it in?? HELP!!
eww that's not good.. and I was just thinking about doing this myself instead of spending money on a new air intake. Well, maybe i'll attempt this, if things don't go right, you can always get a new intake.. it'll probably be cheaper than trying to get an OEM replacement from BMW. Hope you fix the dead spot.
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  #51  
By spydrz on 12-10-2006, 11:24 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by oneshare325
Ok I did mine like a week ago (and I cleaned it really well so i know stuff didn't get in the engine) but my car is running like crap...I have a dead spot from 1 to 4k RPM...It is really noticable..I reset the odo when I did it, and I now have 70 miles on it and it still runs like crap. I read somepeople disconnected the battery to make the ECU reset or something....I didn't do that till last night...I disconnected the battery all night and I havn't driven it yet today So i don't know if it fixed that...It is really bad...can someone help me out? Anyone have a part number for the airbox side with the crarcol filter, I might have to get a new one and take it in?? HELP!!
Hmmm...don't know what to say other than what you did, disconnect the battery. I didn't do that with mine, but it always helped anytime I did anything with my X5. How's it running now?
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  #52  
By Josh49 on 12-10-2006, 11:31 AM
Did you reconnect the MAF sensor?
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  #53  
By oneshare325 on 12-10-2006, 12:08 PM
yep....
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  #54  
By oneshare325 on 12-10-2006, 05:20 PM
Anyone else have this problem..car still runs like crap after leaving the battery disconnected all night??
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  #55  
By Alpine on 12-11-2006, 12:10 AM
Just a thought- did you make sure the flexible tubing connection was correct? I know when I was putting mine back in, it took some 'playing with' to get it back in correctly. Assuming the normal orange air filter is still in there correctly..? I don't know what to tell you bud, PM ///Matt and ask him.
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  #56  
By BzsBimmer on 12-28-2006, 01:24 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by oneshare325
Anyone else have this problem..car still runs like crap after leaving the battery disconnected all night??
Hey Oneshare...
I did this mod the other day and I'm feeling the same thing as you describe.
I actually noticed it more with the intake mod than when I got the exhaust mod done. For whatever reason, when I punch the gas, the RPM's will shoot up but the car won't move much in the process, then it kicks in and goes but it doesn't feel a whole lot faster.
To be honest, I haven't really had a long enough straight to go down and because I just got a speeding ticket last week, I get paranoid.

Also to those who use K&N's... I looked at the MAF sensor when I took it out and it just looks like a diode and some metal wires. Is it possible to spray with electrical contact cleaner and remove the oils? Does the oil short out the diode?
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  #57  
By JIMD1709 on 12-28-2006, 03:25 PM
These problems are in no way related to the K&N filter, or charcoal filter removal. You didn't put something back in right, either the MAF sensor, or the box is not connected to the intake tube properly. Feel all around the tube and make sure you have no gaps or air leaks. That is probably the issue. Check you MAF sensor too, make sure you didn't pinch the o-ring, and that it is in air-tight with no leaks. I would just take it out and re-install the air-box, don't panic. The filter or the removal of the charcoal filter wouldn't have this result. You have an air leak somewhere. I'd bet on it.

I have done this mod twice now. Once on my 06 325, and just recently on my 07 328 coupe. No issues.

On a side note, for whatever reason the 328 seems to have picked up more of an advantage from this mod. The sound is more noticeable then the 325, also throttle response is much quicker than the 325.
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  #58  
By txusa03 on 12-28-2006, 04:04 PM
I agreed with JIMD. Check you connection. When I took my air box out (we all know I like to take things apart for no reason), I did not put it back correctly. If you look at the photo and where the arrow is, well, on the opposite side (the underneath side) of that tube, there is a hook that if you do not connect it correctly will leave a gap underneath (which you cannot see). there are 2 tabs on each side, but there is a hook type at the bottom. Run your hand underneath and make sure there is no gap and you connected the tube securely. To be extra cautious, I would take it out again and just study the hook to understand how it is connected. Relax and just take it apart again and pay special attention to how each piece and the little hooks and groves on each piece and put it back carefully.
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  #59  
By BzsBimmer on 12-28-2006, 04:36 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by txusa03
I agreed with JIMD. Check you connection. When I took my air box out (we all know I like to take things apart for no reason), I did not put it back correctly. If you look at the photo and where the arrow is, well, on the opposite side (the underneath side) of that tube, there is a hook that if you do not connect it correctly will leave a gap underneath (which you cannot see). there are 2 tabs on each side, but there is a hook type at the bottom. Run your hand underneath and make sure there is no gap and you connected the tube securely. To be extra cautious, I would take it out again and just study the hook to understand how it is connected. Relax and just take it apart again and pay special attention to how each piece and the little hooks and groves on each piece and put it back carefully.
Can someone take a pic on how it goes on the "hook"?
All I saw was a flat tab piece. I put the air sleeve on top of it looking straight down so that the flat piece is under it and not above it (if it's above it, the sleeve will go over the entire piece).
In any case, I can't see why that would be the issue. If there was a leak, it should only matter if it was post filter or in a vac line somewhere. If there was an air leak pre filter, it would just let more air in.

As for the MAF sensor, I made sure that it was clean and tight prior to it going in but I will take it all apart again to make sure
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  #60  
By JIMD1709 on 12-28-2006, 05:19 PM
Actually, that part should not make a difference. Where I am talking about is the BACK where the round hose goes onto the airbox. If thats not right, it will act up on you, you can bet on it. Plus any air getting in from there is hot, and un-filtered, allowing grit to enter the engine.
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  #61  
By oneshare325 on 12-28-2006, 07:12 PM
So rather then try and hunt down the problem, I took it al apart yesterday and put it back together, left the battery off again, (just incase), and it is running MUCH better now, Except when I have a full car, I had 3 passangers in my car this morning and the car did it ONCE again! (only once, and then it was fine) I think something wasn't properly connected but It is now, so all is good in the world of me again!!
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  #62  
By txusa03 on 12-28-2006, 08:01 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by JIMD1709
Actually, that part should not make a difference. Where I am talking about is the BACK where the round hose goes onto the airbox. If thats not right, it will act up on you, you can bet on it. Plus any air getting in from there is hot, and un-filtered, allowing grit to enter the engine.
Yes, that makes a bigger difference. Make sure that round hose toward the back of the airbox (see white arrow) and it is also where you plug in the cable is all tight and secure (including the cable). GL
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  #63  
By uhaulball on 02-05-2007, 08:03 PM
Okay, this is for anyone that has either done the "silencer" delete mod, and/or the charcoal filter delete mod.

I removed the charcoal filter and now i cant get the actual intake back on.

It all started when i couldnt get the hose to connect to where the intake hole is. it is a very very tight fit and i doubt anyone who did this charcoal delete mod truly/completely refitted their intake hose onto the intake. it has to go all the way back on and it snaps into place due to the shape.

after attempting to do this by pulling on the hose and getting it to fit for an hour, i gave up, and i removed the hose from the other side, and then within 5 minutes i could get the leverage i needed to connect the hose back onto the intake. but now i cannot connect the other end of the hose back to the engine.

How did you guys reconnect this part. Either by the method of connecting the hose to the intake, and then to the engine. or just leaving the hose connected to the engine and then connecting the intake to the hole. Seems impossible to do either way for me.

This was of course, all accomplished in an open area parking lot when it was 0 degrees F. I need help since now i cant drive my car!! Someone please help.

http://e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=46144
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  #64  
By khafner on 02-05-2007, 08:49 PM
good luck. I have no luck doing things in the cold. things shrink and it is very hard to get them together. A little heat would do the trick. Last time I did something at zero degrees I broke the adjusters replacing a headlamp bulb. The bulb would just not go into the housing and seat itself. Plastic especially gets very brittle when it is cold. Heat makes it flexible.
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  #65  
By JIMD1709 on 02-06-2007, 12:21 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by uhaulball View Post
Okay, this is for anyone that has either done the "silencer" delete mod, and/or the charcoal filter delete mod.

I removed the charcoal filter and now i cant get the actual intake back on.

It all started when i couldnt get the hose to connect to where the intake hole is. it is a very very tight fit and i doubt anyone who did this charcoal delete mod truly/completely refitted their intake hose onto the intake. it has to go all the way back on and it snaps into place due to the shape.

after attempting to do this by pulling on the hose and getting it to fit for an hour, i gave up, and i removed the hose from the other side, and then within 5 minutes i could get the leverage i needed to connect the hose back onto the intake. but now i cannot connect the other end of the hose back to the engine.

How did you guys reconnect this part. Either by the method of connecting the hose to the intake, and then to the engine. or just leaving the hose connected to the engine and then connecting the intake to the hole. Seems impossible to do either way for me.

This was of course, all accomplished in an open area parking lot when it was 0 degrees F. I need help since now i cant drive my car!! Someone please help.

http://e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=46144
First DO NOT bolt the airbox in, or connect the front hose when re-installing. this gives it enough play to work it back on the hose. You shouldn't need to dis-connect from the engine, only the airbox.

Reach your hand around the hose and wiggle while moving it towards the airbox, while pushing back on the airbox with the other hand. Then twist it a few times until it seats. It's tight and bangs up your hands a little, but it's the only way.

Then, connect the front, and bolt it down. Trust me mine is on all the way. I have done this on my E90, and my E92.

I think most of your issues are the result of the cold my friend. I doubt that the hose shrinks much, but it must be very in-flexible at low temps. It's a little bit of a bear when it's warm out. Maybe try warming your engine up a LITTLE, not hot. That might help.

You'll get it.
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