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      09-08-2009, 12:47 AM   #1
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Door Speaker Wiring -- using OEM connector?

So I am installing a CDT Audio HD-42 - 4" HD Series Component System in my doors. I found a set of pins which allow me to adapt the OEM connectors to conventional wires which will then go to my passive cross over.

But the pins look very small. I want to leave everything as stock as possible so just plugging into the existing connector is ideal. But the pins are so small that I am wondering whether using the existing connectors will create a bottleneck in my system at the connectors.

Ideas?
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      09-08-2009, 01:57 AM   #2
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Why not leave your factory wires alone? Pulling new speaker wire into my E91 F doors was a lot easier than, say, an Acura TSX.
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      09-08-2009, 06:07 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quasimodem View Post
So I am installing a CDT Audio HD-42 - 4" HD Series Component System in my doors. I found a set of pins which allow me to adapt the OEM connectors to conventional wires which will then go to my passive cross over.

But the pins look very small. I want to leave everything as stock as possible so just plugging into the existing connector is ideal. But the pins are so small that I am wondering whether using the existing connectors will create a bottleneck in my system at the connectors.

Ideas?
You have a more important concern other than the pins... those 4" will not fit behind the OEM grilles, they are too deep.
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      09-08-2009, 12:39 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Technic View Post
You have a more important concern other than the pins... those 4" will not fit behind the OEM grilles, they are too deep.
Ahh, just like the BMW engineers, you underestimate my ingenuity.

I spent a lot of time this weekend drilling the aluminum brackets I am installing on the inside of the doors which will allow me to top mount the speakers. I will post pics when they are done.
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      09-08-2009, 12:58 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Quasimodem View Post
Ahh, just like the BMW engineers, you underestimate my ingenuity.

I spent a lot of time this weekend drilling the aluminum brackets I am installing on the inside of the doors which will allow me to top mount the speakers. I will post pics when they are done.
I did not say that you cannot top mount these speakers, I said that you cannot bottom mount (behind the OEM grilles) these speakers...
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      09-08-2009, 01:37 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Technic View Post
I did not say that you cannot top mount these speakers, I said that you cannot bottom mount (behind the OEM grilles) these speakers...
Yes, but the genious is that I am top mounting them without drilling holes in the door panel. yes I will have to make a custom grill.

The OEM speakers use the depth of the panel because their brackets are recessed back from the front of the speaker. So if you don't top mount, you are losing like a half an inch in depth which the OEM speakers are designed to take advantage of.
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      09-08-2009, 01:41 PM   #7
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Yes, but the genious
Spelling error, genius
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      09-08-2009, 04:19 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badfish View Post
Spelling error, genius
A claim on my part to be a good speller would be disingenius.
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      09-08-2009, 08:34 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quasimodem View Post
So I am installing a CDT Audio HD-42 - 4" HD Series Component System in my doors. I found a set of pins which allow me to adapt the OEM connectors to conventional wires which will then go to my passive cross over.

But the pins look very small. I want to leave everything as stock as possible so just plugging into the existing connector is ideal. But the pins are so small that I am wondering whether using the existing connectors will create a bottleneck in my system at the connectors.

Ideas?
Just cut the wires a few inches back from the OEM connectors and then reattach them later if you need to.

Or wrap the connector/pin assembly with bare copper wire before insulating it which effectively will increase the gauge of the wire at that point by providing more conductive material.

Or don't worry about it. The voltage drop across that short little connector is going to be very small and insignificant. You can get away with passing a lot of current through a small wire for a short distance - you have problems the longer the wire gets.
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      09-08-2009, 10:48 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by car62 View Post
Just cut the wires a few inches back from the OEM connectors and then reattach them later if you need to.

Or wrap the connector/pin assembly with bare copper wire before insulating it which effectively will increase the gauge of the wire at that point by providing more conductive material.

Or don't worry about it. The voltage drop across that short little connector is going to be very small and insignificant. You can get away with passing a lot of current through a small wire for a short distance - you have problems the longer the wire gets.
Cool, forgot about that. Thanks.
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      09-12-2009, 02:14 PM   #11
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So my devious plan to top mount the CDTs is coming together. We shall see...
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      09-14-2009, 12:55 AM   #12
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One in. Couldn't figure out how to get the sail panel off so I couldn't do the tweeter. Another research project.
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      09-14-2009, 02:39 AM   #13
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Looks great, how it is the sepaker grill?
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      09-14-2009, 10:43 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scampos1984 View Post
Looks great, how it is the sepaker grill?
I am going to have to adapt the OEM grill. The one that came with the speakers pushes the speaker out farther and then the grill extends out even farther which would hit the dash.
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      09-14-2009, 05:06 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quasimodem View Post
I am going to have to adapt the OEM grill. The one that came with the speakers pushes the speaker out farther and then the grill extends out even farther which would hit the dash.
We'll see the result
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      09-26-2009, 01:04 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VP Electricity View Post
Why not leave your factory wires alone? Pulling new speaker wire into my E91 F doors was a lot easier than, say, an Acura TSX.
Arghhhh. I just tried to gain access to pull a new speaker wire into the drivers side door. I found out that the electrical connector on the e90 doors are almost hermetically sealed. There is no way to get a wire in there without adding pins to the door connector or messing up the waterproof cover for the harness.

Back to using OEM wires.
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      09-26-2009, 01:35 PM   #17
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I didn't add pins and I didn't mod the connector.

Did you take the boot off? There was a huge passage at the bottom of the connector on the sill side. I pulled Pear Cable Comice in there - as big around as your little finger, OD more like a 16GA extension cord. I put a little hand soap on it to help pull it through the Z-shapped rubber boot, but getting it through the connector was not a deal.

The driver's side wire passage in the kick is blocked by a module. I took out a bolt temporarily to get the wire through.

The passenger side passage was not blocked.

Both passages were plugged with gray foam plugs with a notch for the wire.

Would you like me to take pics of how to do it and post them?
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      09-26-2009, 02:29 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VP Electricity View Post
I didn't add pins and I didn't mod the connector.

Did you take the boot off? There was a huge passage at the bottom of the connector on the sill side. I pulled Pear Cable Comice in there - as big around as your little finger, OD more like a 16GA extension cord. I put a little hand soap on it to help pull it through the Z-shapped rubber boot, but getting it through the connector was not a deal.

The driver's side wire passage in the kick is blocked by a module. I took out a bolt temporarily to get the wire through.

The passenger side passage was not blocked.

Both passages were plugged with gray foam plugs with a notch for the wire.

Would you like me to take pics of how to do it and post them?
Thanks, I don't need the pics, I get the idea, although it probably wouldn't hurt for others to be able to see it. I did have the connector off didn't notice any passage, it must have had the plug in it. And I gave up and put all the trim back together again. Yes I saw that module sitting there in my way too, all a bit discouraging. I will pull that connector off again and look for the passage, thanks.
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      09-26-2009, 03:18 PM   #19
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I don't see any passage in my connector. There is a gap in the sheet metal, but no way I see to get a wire through it without drilling the top portion of the plastic housing where the white dot is.
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      09-26-2009, 06:03 PM   #20
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The connector is not as long as the boot opening. I ran the wire at the bottom of the boot - as close as possible to the corrugated boot itself - and drilled no holes.

If you were pulling standard lamp-cord-style speaker wire rather than the cable I pulled, it should be even easier.
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      10-03-2009, 10:55 AM   #21
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Well, they sound pretty good. Haven't made the covers yet, but considering what I had to do to install the midranges without drilling the door panels, the covers shouldn't be a problem.
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      11-23-2012, 08:31 PM   #22
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I know bumping a thread this old is a forum etiquette no no... but did you ever fabricate the grilles? got pics?
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