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      12-14-2006, 12:39 AM   #23
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yikes, could that hurt the engine?
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      12-14-2006, 12:45 AM   #24
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ehh i got a check engine light and it died twice so i figured it had to do with the plug.

Does anyone know how to restart the ECU? On my old car i just unplugged the batteries and let it sit for a bit
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      12-14-2006, 03:14 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmitri
ehh i got a check engine light and it died twice so i figured it had to do with the plug.

Does anyone know how to restart the ECU? On my old car i just unplugged the batteries and let it sit for a bit
was this after you put in the plug with epoxy?
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      12-14-2006, 03:50 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmitri
ehh i got a check engine light and it died twice so i figured it had to do with the plug.

Does anyone know how to restart the ECU? On my old car i just unplugged the batteries and let it sit for a bit
I think you do the same- unplug battery and let it sit.
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      12-14-2006, 04:15 AM   #27
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I Googled a few interesting links:

http://www.widgetco.com/hardware/hol...rkLOlQzNp65In0

http://rodongroup.thomasnet.com/view...ugs?&forward=1

http://rodongroup.thomasnet.com/view...ugs?&forward=1

http://www.amclo.com/
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      12-14-2006, 09:42 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmitri
ok so my car didnt start and it turns out that my plug fell out.

Be Careful guys, use the right plug and make sure it seals well. This time I used epoxy putty. Should stay in, but I think im going to order a new piece for the peace of mind.
lol, cant believe you dove into this without having the plug first. Yeah (like ksfrogman said), your thumb should get a purple heart. I agreed with you, if I was to do this, first, I go to the dealer and buy a new tube (what $30), then I go home and have some fun.
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      12-14-2006, 02:10 PM   #29
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thanks michael. i wonder if any stores carry this or do we need to order from the web? i had tried lowe's and couldn't find anything.
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      12-18-2006, 09:53 AM   #30
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Has anyone thought about just making a new complete tube that is smooth all the way. What diameter is this tube?
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      12-18-2006, 10:15 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Minipuck V 2.0
was this after you put in the plug with epoxy?
No, After I epoxied the plug into place everything has been good since. I also used electrical tape wrapped around just in case.

This creates a reliability issue for me, I dont trust a cap even epoxied to the intake. If this stupid cap falls off your engine wont start if its cold!

Im going to montreal and vermont for new years so I think im gonna order a new tube for the ride.
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      12-18-2006, 10:44 PM   #32
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If this cap falls off, your car has an "unmetered" air leak. All the air (and it's a lot) that comes in through that hole will NOT be measured by the air-mass meter, and so your DME won't be injecting the correct amount of fuel.

This will set a check engine light, and make your car run like crap, VERY lean. If left for a long time (assuming you CAN run for a long time with a leak that large) you run the risk of overheating your motor, since lean running is HOT running.
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      12-23-2006, 02:59 AM   #33
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Anyone found a good place to get the plug yet?
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      12-23-2006, 08:55 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alpine
Anyone found a good place to get the plug yet?
7-11 a bottle of aquafina ... and some J-B weld from autozone
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      12-24-2006, 05:05 AM   #35
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guys, i opened it up to find out that 1.5in cap didnt fit, so i went back to the depot and found some strech and seal tape, its water,heat resistant and is perfect for the job, i used PLENTY and its been fine so far, but i really dont think this was a good idea, as it is jsut a temporary solution, i might just go to the dealership and purchase another one....o well...
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      12-24-2006, 05:05 AM   #36
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i do hear a little more unmuffled engine noise now though...
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      12-29-2006, 07:18 PM   #37
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Lightbulb ******The Perfect Cap******

Ok fellas, so I went to Home Depot yesterday and bought a ton of 'possible' caps for the intake silencer. I ended up with one that is absolutely PERFECT! It's called a Hole Plug. Pretty simple huh? I found it in the aisle with screws, nuts, bolts and such. It was in those little drawers you can pull out. The great part about this hole plug is that it's locking, which means it basically snaps in. It could probably hold its own without any glue, but who wants to try that? I used trusty ole JB Weld to make it stay. The hole plug size is 1 - 3/16" I promise, this fits perfectly. Here are some pictures, and a rough pic of the little bag the hole plug came in.








I hope this helps some of you guys who are skeptical about doing this because of the 'plug fitment' issue.
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      01-02-2007, 04:26 AM   #38
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Rody could you sende me photos of your car, I have the breyton spirit 18x8.5 because the streets in Tampico, Mexico, are very bad but i will like the 19's in my car, i apreciate the pictures. SALUDOS DESDE MEXICO...
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      01-02-2007, 04:30 AM   #39
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Sorry ALPINE I make a little mistake with the windows in my Internet,
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      02-05-2007, 09:05 PM   #40
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http://e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=46144

Okay, this is for anyone that has either done the "silencer" delete mod, and/or the charcoal filter delete mod.

I removed the charcoal filter and now i cant get the actual intake back on.

It all started when i couldnt get the hose to connect to where the intake hole is. it is a very very tight fit and i doubt anyone who did this charcoal delete mod truly/completely refitted their intake hose onto the intake. it has to go all the way back on and it snaps into place due to the shape.

after attempting to do this by pulling on the hose and getting it to fit for an hour, i gave up, and i removed the hose from the other side, and then within 5 minutes i could get the leverage i needed to connect the hose back onto the intake. but now i cannot connect the other end of the hose back to the engine.

How did you guys reconnect this part. Either by the method of connecting the hose to the intake, and then to the engine. or just leaving the hose connected to the engine and then connecting the intake to the hole. Seems impossible to do either way for me.

This was of course, all accomplished in an open area parking lot when it was 0 degrees F. I need help since now i cant drive my car!! Someone please help.
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      02-05-2007, 09:16 PM   #41
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attach the tube to the engine first. there's a "notch" on top that assures proper fit placement. Then attach the intake housing to the pipe. Make sure all the silver rings are loose enough to allow the pipes to fit together. you have to pull from all around the intake pipe to make sure it fits well. Then tighten the silver rings. Tighten the rear silver ring first thenattach the intake houing then tighten the forward ring.
GL.

I did this mod yesterday...the engine definitely has a deepe tone to it, and less "whine". Throttle feels quicker...but that just might be in my head.
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Last edited by Chesmu; 02-05-2007 at 09:39 PM.
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      02-05-2007, 09:55 PM   #42
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Hey uhallball, if you are still cannot put it back after using Chesmu's suggestion, relax and read this and study the photo. I copied Lux's photo so hope he does not mind. I personally would connect the round hose first. See the first photo. The round hose has a metal pipe/hose clamp (see yellow arrow). As Chesmu said, make sure you loosen the pipe/hose clamp. There is a screw on that metal pipe clamp to loosen it. Once loosen, try to connect the two pipes together. Work slowly and make sure it is connected securely. Then use the same screw on the pipe clamp to tighten it down. Dont worry if the air box is not postioned correctly. That is the next step.
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      02-05-2007, 09:58 PM   #43
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Next, position the air box (the green rectangle in the photo) into the proper position seen in this photo. You can slightly tighten down the air box with the two screw (red dotted circle).
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      02-05-2007, 10:02 PM   #44
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the air box seats on a little rubber... thingie... that's on the metal beam in the engine bay. This helps poaition the air box correctly. Any luck UHB?
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