[cpt97m3]

Originally Posted by marconi118

so finally is the tension road with the stiffer bushing?

Yes, the M3 tension rod has a much stiffer rubber bushing on the inner side. But the M3 wishbone (lateral link) has a sealed bearing instead of a rubber bushing, so it's considerably stiffer the the 1 & 3 series OE parts. So both will help the precision of the front end.

[Bullitt]

Originally Posted by ontopofm

Tightening Torques

Control arm to steering knuckle
M14 8.8 bolt (replace with new).....80Nm (59 ft-lb)
M14 10.9 bolt (replace with new)....165Nm (122 ft-lb)
Control arm to subframe
M12 8.8 bolt (replace with new).....68Nm (50 ft-lb) + 90 degree
M12 10.9 bolt (replace with new)....100Nm (74 ft-lb) + 90 degree

Road wheel to hub........................120 Nm (89 ft-lb)

Tension strut to steering knuckle (replace wit new).....165 Nm (122 ft-lb)
Tension strut to subframe
M12 8.8 (replace with new).....................................68 Nm (50 ft-lb) + 90 degree
M12 10.9 (replace with new)...................................100 Nm (74 ft-lb) +90 degree

Not sure if the shop who installed these for me followed these specific tightening specs. Is it a cause for concern if the installer tightened them without knowledge of these torque values?

[marconi118]

Originally Posted by cpt97m3

Yes, the M3 tension rod has a much stiffer rubber bushing on the inner side. But the M3 wishbone (lateral link) has a sealed bearing instead of a rubber bushing, so it's considerably stiffer the the 1 & 3 series OE parts. So both will help the precision of the front end.

Is it the same on rear? shall I change only the tension link + subframe bushings or add the upper arm?

[cpt97m3]

Originally Posted by marconi118

Is it the same on rear? shall I change only the tension link + subframe bushings or add the upper arm?

Well there are 5 arms in the rear, vs. only two in the front, so it's trickier. The lower camber arm in the rear requires new shocks. Of the two upper arms, I've been told that the Guide Rod Kit is the most effective upgrade. HP Autowerks is still working on the toe kit, so I don't think that's ready yet.

So I'd start with the subframe bushings and rear guide rod kit to start. I may do that in the future when I have some time. It's very labor intensive to replace the subframe bushings in the rear.

[JoeyBananaz18]

can it be used on Xi's?

[Gen_E92]

Originally Posted by JoeyBananaz18

can it be used on Xi's?

AFAIK only the strut brace and all the rear parts can be used.

[marcel b]

Question. When mounting the M3 front suspension parts, the front wheel comes a bit out. My 9x18 with 265x35 tires currently fit, but don't have a lot of space left. Will they still fit?

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by marcel b

Question. When mounting the M3 front suspension parts, the front wheel comes a bit out. My 9x18 with 265x35 tires currently fit, but don't have a lot of space left. Will they still fit?

They should fit.

[M3_WC]

Sell all your mods and go buy a used M3. They are in the $40k range now.

It would be a lot easier.

[uberschnell]

Originally Posted by M3_WC

Sell all your mods and go buy a used M3. They are in the $40k range now.

It would be a lot easier.

Mid to high $40's for bare bones + decent miles.

Plus, you know how much maintenance is on an M, not the cheap way out by any means.

[Javi335]

Hello.

By only the M3 strut bar, how does the permonace improves? less understeer?

[NiVeDh]

Originally Posted by Javi335

Hello.

By only the M3 strut bar, how does the permonace improves? less understeer?

A front strut bar actually induces more understeer. If you want more oversteer, get rear sways.

[Javi335]

Originally Posted by NiVeDh

A front strut bar actually induces more understeer. If you want more oversteer, get rear sways.

Dont want more oversteer, just reduce understeed.Thanks

[NiVeDh]

Originally Posted by Javi335

Dont want more oversteer, just reduce understeed.Thanks

More oversteer = reduced understeer. They're on the same continuum. It's a fine balance. Get both rear sways and front strut bar if you want a more neutral car.

[Javi335]

Originally Posted by NiVeDh

More oversteer = reduced understeer. They're on the same continuum.

That's so clarify

[stressdoc]

Front strut brace does not affect understeer/oversteer. It just reinforces/stiffens chassis, reducing flex which is good because it keeps suspension geometry more stable.

Sway bars affect understeer/oversteer. They need to be carefully matched with springs and dampers.

[bmrm396]

Originally Posted by MteK

Mid to high $40's for bare bones + decent miles.

Plus, you know how much maintenance is on an M, not the cheap way out by any means.

ummmmmmmmmm what? i disagree ... feel free to explain

[Autobahn335i]

Originally Posted by stressdoc

Front strut brace does not affect understeer/oversteer. It just reinforces/stiffens chassis, reducing flex which is good because it keeps suspension geometry more stable.

Sway bars affect understeer/oversteer. They need to be carefully matched with springs and dampers.

+1 well said! Most people seem to think that stiffer sway bars always are better, because they reduce body roll. But ultimately sway bars should be used to balance the car.

[Pacha]

Hi, I have to replace my cars front bushings as well. I drive a 335xi (2008). May I use the list of wishbone links and other stuff listed here in my car? Are there other aftermarket bushings that I should consider? I drive my car let's say 60% street, 40%track

Thanks!

[Stangorang]

When doing the M3 conversion, would there be any reason the new parts would cause previously "tight" fitting front wheels to start to rub?

Edit: Looks like it was answered above with post #228. But I will be running 19x9.5 5x120 +33 in the front. Anyone anticipate issues?

[cpt97m3]

Originally Posted by crewkip

When doing the M3 conversion, would there be any reason the new parts would cause previously "tight" fitting front wheels to start to rub?

Edit: Looks like it was answered above with post #228. But I will be running 19x9.5 5x120 +33 in the front. Anyone anticipate issues?

If you are super tight already, the M3 arms do move the top of the wheel out some, but not a lot. If you have 3-4mm of clearance now, you should be fine. But if it's only 1 or 2mm, you may rub.

[CubanJJ09]

im planning on upgrading my suspension with m3 bits as well but have a question. is it worth it to get the other 3 links in the rear(steering rod, camber links, trailing arms)?

in the front ill have the wishbone and tension strut along with the sway bar (no strut brace). in the rear itll be the wishbone, guide rod, subframe bushings, sway bar and set of bilstien coilovers for the car.

i figured its gonna be another 560+ for the other parts (steering rod, camber links, trailing arms) and want to know if its worth it. im gonna be knee deep in it and want to make sure its done right but if these parts dont make such a large impact like the other 2 (wishbone, rear guide rod) then to hell with it. let me know what u guys think.

TIA