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      12-08-2009, 09:04 PM   #23
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100% might throw codes btw...
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      12-08-2009, 09:05 PM   #24
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It took a while, but I just installed it successfully.

I tried guitar pick, dime, penny, and grocery card with no success. They just won't stick, my dime fell off.

At the end, I went with the usb again. You just have to push the usb deep enough, then, the plug would just pop off.

My hand is pretty big, so I have to open the air intake box cover to make a little bit of room. I still have to put a tape on my arm to protect it from scratch.

I just took the car for a spin, it's probably placebo effect, but the car feels more responsive. I can't wait to drive it in the next two days.
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      12-08-2009, 09:12 PM   #25
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You should notice an increase in power as soon as you plug it in, but it will just get better over the next couple days.

I'd have started at 50% and then worked your way up. Gives you something to look forward to before buying your next tune.
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      12-08-2009, 09:23 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayKay335i View Post
You should notice an increase in power as soon as you plug it in, but it will just get better over the next couple days.

I'd have started at 50% and then worked your way up. Gives you something to look forward to before buying your next tune.
My dyno butt is calibrated properly then, .
I started out just a little bit over 50% just to be safe, as I don't have the BT tool.

Is it easier to uninstall it? or just similar procedure? I just want to be ready in case I have to unplug it in the middle of the road or something.
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      12-08-2009, 11:50 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by marcel b View Post
so you push the usb cable over the clip and then pull the cable out? trying to understand...
We can meet and I will advice how to install without breaking anything. I use an usb plug for installation. It is important that you install by yourself so you can remove and reinstall the JB+ for making adjustments, etc. Send a PM, in case you like to do so.

Cheers,
Eugen
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      12-09-2009, 12:02 AM   #28
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nice pic!!
Thanks. I took it because I had a feeling many people will need it to refer to in the future.

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Originally Posted by bmwowner619 View Post
they will blame you. you have to buy a new tmap sensor at ticher. getbmwparts.com
That sucks. Okay. I'll buy two - just in case I break another one.

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Originally Posted by Prowess Symphony View Post
pn is product number. You definitely need to buy a new one from tischer. Its cheap if I remember correctly.
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100% might throw codes btw...
Will I KNOW if it throws codes? I did purchase the BT cable so I can always go in and take care of the codes. I'm sure there will be a learning curve but I figured I'd just cross that bridge when I came to it when an engine light came on or something. But maybe nothing is displayed to me at all. Please elaborate on this if you can...

Quote:
Originally Posted by JayKay335i View Post
You should notice an increase in power as soon as you plug it in, but it will just get better over the next couple days.

I'd have started at 50% and then worked your way up. Gives you something to look forward to before buying your next tune.
Yeah, I think I noticed something. Even though I didn't floor it - I can tell there's more power. I'm anxious to see what happens over the next couple of days...

As for my next tune, it's a Stage 3 Dinan flash.. Probably in a month or two...
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      12-09-2009, 12:07 AM   #29
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Will I KNOW if it throws codes? I did purchase the BT cable so I can always go in and take care of the codes. I'm sure there will be a learning curve but I figured I'd just cross that bridge when I came to it when an engine light came on or something. But maybe nothing is displayed to me at all. Please elaborate on this if you can...

As for my next tune, it's a Stage 3 Dinan flash.. Probably in a month or two...
You probably won't know it. Tuner codes throw no CEL. As for your Dinan plans, check the GIAC flash first .
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      12-09-2009, 12:23 AM   #30
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You probably won't know it. Tuner codes throw no CEL. As for your Dinan plans, check the GIAC flash first .
Okay. I'll have to install that BT stuff and get going with that before I go back for my iPod installation.. I wonder if they'd even check into anything like this when installing the iPod setup.. Any thoughts on that?

I will definitely consider the GIAC flash but only if they have the device ready where I can easily unflash before bringing the car in for service...
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      12-09-2009, 02:18 AM   #31
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A plastic card works beat for me (CC, ID, gift card). Just make sure u don't need that card lol
+1 I tried the usb cable and failed. So i got a gift card. I ended up bending the card up.
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      12-09-2009, 04:32 AM   #32
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I used a small flat screwdriver (carefully) with no problems. I also used a small mirror to have a good look at what I had to do first so I could visualise.
The other key is to look at the JB+ itself. If you imagine the male and female ends of the JB+ being connected, that is what you are trying to undo with sensor.

50% was a very notable increase in bottom and mid range meat straight away for me, no difference in top end. I don't think a couple of days made much more difference than the first couple of hours. It is pulling pretty strong on 50% running 98 octane.
I can get the tires to break traction with WOT at about 2k rpm in first and sometimes second especially on a cool evening. I can also more clearly hear the turbos. Any more power I think will be wasted without adding an LSD

PS: I wouldn't worry about the sensor demage for ipod, I don't see why they would be anywhere near there. However I would not chance a tuner code (which is quite possible on 100% without sol bypass) incase they are required to be in or checking codes/electronics as part of ipod.
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      12-09-2009, 08:34 AM   #33
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100% might throw codes btw...
care to explain? is this because he set it to the max setting right away?
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      12-09-2009, 11:00 AM   #34
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Quote:
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I wouldn't worry about the sensor demage for ipod, I don't see why they would be anywhere near there. However I would not chance a tuner code (which is quite possible on 100% without sol bypass) incase they are required to be in or checking codes/electronics as part of ipod.
I will look into removing the solenoid today.. Is this another thing I need to re-set before bringing the car in for service? And are there any dealer service issues with removing the intake box/lid?

Thanks for all the help so far...
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      12-09-2009, 05:39 PM   #35
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Bump.. Any help on my last couple of questions?
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      12-09-2009, 06:15 PM   #36
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Definately return your solenoid back to stock, remove the jb+, use bt tool to scan and clear codes, return your airbox to normal, then go to the dealership.
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      12-09-2009, 06:20 PM   #37
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Definately return your solenoid back to stock, remove the jb+, use bt tool to scan and clear codes, return your airbox to normal, then go to the dealership.
Thank you very much!
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      12-09-2009, 06:22 PM   #38
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Thank you very much!
No problem, the solenoid and jb+ install/removal should only take 60 seconds once you do a few times. Its not a big deal like the jb3 is. Never go to the dealership with any modifications, its not worth the risk.
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      12-09-2009, 06:59 PM   #39
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Thanks again. I'll be doing the solenoid bypass tomorrow.. I have pictures from the JB PDF but are there any more descriptive pictures? Since I don't know what these things typically look like, anything more would help...
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      12-09-2009, 10:14 PM   #40
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My JB+ threw a 2D18 (tuner) code at 75%.

I cleared it, but still. Be careful.
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      12-09-2009, 10:15 PM   #41
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Thanks again. I'll be doing the solenoid bypass tomorrow.. I have pictures from the JB PDF but are there any more descriptive pictures? Since I don't know what these things typically look like, anything more would help...
the bypass is super easy. there is a little plug with two prongs on it. you are just eliminating that two prong thing and bypassing it.
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      12-10-2009, 10:40 PM   #42
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I'm definitely going to play with that solenoid as soon as I can.. In the meantime - and I don't think I should start a new discussion for this - I really got a feel for the JB+ this evening while merging onto the I95 in Palm Beach County.. I played a little bit but shortly after, the engine light came on. I'm using the BT tool to see what the deal is now.. I ran the "short test" which is taking all day. Every time I try to cancel, it fails. So, I guess I'll have to wait it out. In any event, I'm kinda surprised the engine light came on.. I suppose I'll just clear the code and move forward.. I wonder, though......
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      12-10-2009, 11:13 PM   #43
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I had a CEL come on at 100%. Just to much powa!

Just use your BT tool and scan it.
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      12-10-2009, 11:18 PM   #44
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These were all my fault codes.. I cleared them.. Anything to worry about?

The yellow engine light that came on was kinda half lit-up.. After doing some reading, it appears that was limp mode.. Correct? If so, maybe I need to turn down the JB+ a bit. I don't want to have to worry about getting put into limp mode if I flex the car's muscle.. What do you think? Anyway, here were my codes before I cleared them:

Short Test

MSD80/MSD81 Engine module for N54
Current Fault Codes

2A87:
2A87 Outlet-Vanos variable cam control test, mechanics
Error will cause a warning light
Error is not currently present
Test conditions have been completed

Freeze Frame Information
Event 1

3100:
3100 boost-pressure control, deactivation
Error will not cause a warning light
Error is not currently present
Test conditions have been completed



Car Access System 3
Current Fault Codes

A0B0:
ECU input brake lights
Error will not cause a warning light
Error is not currently present
Test conditions have been completed
Short circuit or signal interruption



A10A:
EWS4 timing challenge/response error
Error will not cause a warning light
Error is not currently present
Test conditions have been completed
Signal or value below threshold




Instrument cluster PL2 E8x and E9x
Current Fault Codes

A3B2:
CAN ID 130 error: Clamp status
Error will not cause a warning light
Error is not currently present
Test conditions have been completed




MOST / CAN gateway CD73/MD73
Current Fault Codes

E194:
No CLAMP_STATUS via CAN received
Error will not cause a warning light
Error is not currently present
Test conditions have been completed



E18C:
Device didn't accept or confirm monitoring message (Error_Monitoring)
Error will not cause a warning light
Error is not currently present
Test conditions have been completed



E18D:
Wake Up Device tried to wake up network 3-times without success (Error_WakeUp_Failed)
Error will not cause a warning light
Error is not currently present
Test conditions have been completed




Telematic control module
Current Fault Codes

A36B:

Error will not cause a warning light
Error is not currently present
Test conditions have been completed



A392:

Error will not cause a warning light
Error is not currently present
Test conditions have been completed


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