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  DIY: Laser Interceptor/ Laser Jammer install
calvino
07-19-2008
DIY difficulty scale from 1-10: 7
Time required: about 2-3 hours.
Tools: zip ties, screw driver, quick connects, trox driver, scissors, drill.
Installation was done in a e90. Installation on a e92 should be almost the same.
Please excuse me if I made any grammar...
  #44  
By TambourineMan on 01-27-2010, 08:15 AM
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I don't have the level of experience in multiple installs that you have. I am most familiar with the laser Interceptor, than with blinders or others. The Laser Interceptor can be mounted vertically and works as well as mounting horizontally according to multiple user radardetectors.net.

Mine are mounted vertically in the grill. It has been tested against multiple types of radar guns with JTG results. I have only had two real life hits both successful.

As for mounting under the bumper versus a higher spot in addition to the increased theft risk, you may want to think if most of the laser traps are when you are cresting a hill versus from an overhead. When cresting a hill reflective parts will be visible before the jammers have line of sight to the gun.
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  #45  
By stikya on 01-27-2010, 08:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lotus99 View Post
Nice clean install first of all! You don't seem to have a front license plate, but I've got one, and that is probably the first spot they'd hit, I'm guessing. Wouldn't the grill locations be closer to the plate?
Thanks.
Depends on the road and where they position themselves, but quite possibly.

No worries though. It' commonly accepted that any location w/in 18" (18" is about the minimum lidar gun dispersion pattern at close distances) from a head is WELL protected. Whether it's over or under or next to the object. Mid plate is almost exactly 18" from the outer portion of the heads inmy install... meaning very well protected. I think you real concern w/ the grill mounting is the outer edges of the lights.

Think about it, if a plate/grill shot isnt' working for the cop, as his 1st target, he's going to go for the lights next. But, at that time you've gotten much closer to him, right. So, his dispersion pattern is shrinking, and your edges are unprotected...the edges he's now shooting at!

Of course, to add certainty, I always do non-reflective (Matte black) grills and a Veil covered or very lightly tinted plate cover. I also scratch the actual license plate w/ a steel wool pad. This takes off the super shiny retro-flective coat and leaves a bit of a dull gray tint over the remaining paint. Then put the lightly tinted cover over it. It ends up being lightly tinted and very visible but very unreflective.

All of this will reduce reflectiveness by tons, and you'll be near impossible to target.
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  #46  
By stikya on 01-27-2010, 12:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TambourineMan View Post

As for mounting under the bumper versus a higher spot in addition to the increased theft risk, you may want to think if most of the laser traps are when you are cresting a hill versus from an overhead. When cresting a hill reflective parts will be visible before the jammers have line of sight to the gun.

I agree that I may be exposed for a very small window of time, cresting a hill. But, I submitt that threat is way less than the side angle headlight shot you are chancing, by being 25"+ away from your headlight edges, on a corner or multiple lane highway (with you on one side and the cop on the other).

Typically your driving in traffic. And the cop can't hit all the cars. So, even w/ laser, cops still visually inspect groups of cars to pick the possible fastest or car passing, to determine who to target.

Logically because of inability to do an accurate comparison and for lack of targeting area, cops aren't targeting cars before they can really get a good visual, meaning my jammers are already in his line of sight or entering it, as I'm "selected". To exhaggerate the point, not many cops are shooting at hood ornaments topping hills.

Experience and logic says, they will target once they having a good line of sight, compare to other traffic, and have decided you are one of their chosen. Numerous hill experiences with jam successes uphold this claim.

But, compared that to coming around a curve, or being in the 3rd lane w/ the cop on the shoulder off lane 1, nailing you at an angle in the headlight for an extended period. This is a much bigger window and much more of a threat in my opinion.

Case in point: I came around a corner 2 years ago, and got targeted at about 300 ft. At that range his laser pattern is very tight. If he was aiming at my headlight and my jammer was in my grill, 25" away, I would have been toast!

This is all solely based on my experiences, over the last 3 years, and being aware of the circumstances in which I was targeted; none of it on empiracle data testing.

Note I also always overcompensate by doing a dark grille, tinted or Veil headlight/foglight coating, and no or reduced reflective plate. So, maybe my setup really sucks, and I have just compensated in other ways!

Both setups will work 90ish% of the time, and we will both eventually get a ticket. but, if we avoid 15 to 20 in the meantime, we both got our money's worth!
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  #47  
By Lotus99 on 01-27-2010, 12:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TambourineMan View Post
Mine are mounted vertically in the grill. It has been tested against multiple types of radar guns with JTG results. I have only had two real life hits both successful.
When looking at the head, is the receiver at the top (like in my pic below), or the transmitter?
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  #48  
By TambourineMan on 01-27-2010, 04:55 PM
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My receiver is at the top.

Here are some pix. I do not think the jammer is that far from the edge of the headlights as I have a 335 so it is not that wide, but I have not actually measured.







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  #49  
By Lotus99 on 01-27-2010, 07:14 PM
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Hmmm... you've got your heads on the outer edges of the grills, not the inner (center of hood) spots. So they're pretty close to the headlights and the license plate, I'd say. I wonder if stikya thought you'd put them in the center of the hood, under the emblem, which would be too far to the outer edge of each headlight?

I can't see how the distance from that location to the outer edge of each headlight is larger than putting the head under the bumper.
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  #50  
By stikya on 01-27-2010, 08:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TambourineMan View Post
My receiver is at the top.

Here are some pix. I do not think the jammer is that far from the edge of the headlights as I have a 335 so it is not that wide, but I have not actually measured.
I have a 335 too. I measured from the 4th slot you have them mounted to the turn signal portion of your headlight is about 25-26", not to mention around the curve of the car. That seems to be pushing the coverage limits when encountering a headlight shot from a side angle. In my position, the heads are 22" or less from every reflective surface on the car, including the turn signal and grill. Any reflective surface beyond 22", due to lack of dispersion, is taking your chances, on closer range shots.

But, I wouldn't worry about it enough to change your setup. No setup is perfect, they all have their downsides and up. You have to pick what's most important to you. LI mounted about anywhere will see you to many wins!
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  #51  
By v4voodoo on 03-12-2010, 03:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stikya View Post

I love this part. I'm getting my LI next week to install on an E92. Would you be so kind to share where you put the main unit and how you routed the wires to install the kill switch this way?
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  #52  
By stikya on 03-12-2010, 08:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by v4voodoo View Post
I love this part. I'm getting my LI next week to install on an E92. Would you be so kind to share where you put the main unit and how you routed the wires to install the kill switch this way?
sure. I used the instuctions for the rear fog light install, http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26545, to pop out the headlight switch housing, and vent.

My Blinder ECU is tucked at the top, of the side panel, just left of brake pedal. You can access it by dropping the lower dash panel (connects w/ screws under the steering wheel). But, my ECU is small and has an auxillary speaker.

The LI ECU is much larger, and has internal speaker. You will probablly want to tacky tape mount is to the outside of the lower dash panel. above the dead pedal or something. So, you can hear the warnings. Otherwise you will not hear alerts well...it isn't very loud. ( I have an LI on my Murano).

To access the gromet where you can pass the cables from the heads through from the engine bay, up at the firewall, you will have to drop the lower dash panel (driver's side). This is also how you will thread the switch wires up to the vent (really down from the vent to ECU). They run from the vent down, along the inner dash brace, and come out behind the trunk button. Once the lower panel is down and vents/healight switch is out, it is pretty clear where you can route between the two.

HINT: With the panel down, I stuck a flash light at the bottom behing the trunk button, and aimed up towards the vent. Then thread my wires from vent, down towards the light. Once wires are close to light, grab the wires to pull them down the rest of the way and pull over to ECU location.

Now drill your small dash hole. Make sure not to drill too deep...maybe only 1/2" of excess space once you are through the 1/2" dash material. There is hard styrofoam behind the dash. I drilled just a bit of it. It didn't affect anything, but no need to mess it up.

Then run your wires from vent over to littel dash hole you drilled and pop in the switch.

Let me know if this isnt'' clear.
Last edited by stikya; 03-12-2010 at 07:31 PM.
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  #53  
By v4voodoo on 03-13-2010, 02:42 AM
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Awesome, thank you very much.
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  #54  
By LetsRock on 03-13-2010, 06:14 PM
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This seems to be a lot of work for a piece of equipment THAT DOES NOT WORK. Laser jammers are a joke and a waste of money.
Last edited by LetsRock; 06-17-2010 at 06:40 PM.
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  #55  
By my07_335i on 03-13-2010, 06:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LetsRock View Post
This seems to be a lot of work for a piece of equipment THAT DOES NOT WORK. Laser jammers are a joke and a waste of money.
Proof? Many tests have shown otherwise. If you can't back up your claim, STFU and G.O.
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  #56  
By LetsRock on 06-17-2010, 06:40 PM
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This install worked great for my Escort Qi45 today!
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  #57  
By stikya on 06-18-2010, 10:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LetsRock View Post
This seems to be a lot of work for a piece of equipment THAT DOES NOT WORK. Laser jammers are a joke and a waste of money.
Please keep perpetuating that believe.

That's one major reason they are still legal. The majority of law enforement have that same view. You allow me to keep sucessfully using mine. Going on 4 years now...20 laser traps...not 1 ticket.

Thanks for the help!
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  #58  
By Epic404 on 06-20-2010, 10:19 AM
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Great tut, I'll need it to mount my LI heads soon. I'm going to mount them horizontally in the ducts below though for better efficacy. Take the yellow LI stickers off as you can see them through your grills.
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  #59  
By Epic404 on 06-20-2010, 10:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stikya View Post
Please keep perpetuating that believe.

That's one major reason they are still legal. The majority of law enforement have that same view. You allow me to keep sucessfully using mine. Going on 4 years now...20 laser traps...not 1 ticket.

Thanks for the help!
Yeah, thank god for worthless Phazer and Rocky Mountain products giving them a bad name. After taking defensive driving for around the 12th time for ticket dismissal I finally got serious about countermeasures. Now I swear by my LI's and V1!
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  #60  
By Mk23 on 06-20-2010, 12:18 PM
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Did ANY of you read the Laser Interceptor manual? If so I think you people missed a few things...

1. You NEVER mount them behind anything that can obstruct the view.

2. You NEVER mount them vertically.

3. They are supposed to be mounted near the headlights. (on the sides of the lower middle grill)

4. They are to be checked after the install and every few weeks with a level.


I'm sorry but this is a terrible writeup as they are installed completely wrong and will as a result be very limited as to what they can jam.
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  #61  
By TambourineMan on 06-29-2010, 06:37 AM
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Here is some more info on how I mounted my jammer heads:

I got the jammer heads exactly perpendicular to the ground by using the level and marking a black line on the inside of the grill with a black Sharpie to which to align the head. You can see the lines in one of the photos. I then took the grill out and put the head along the line to see where and how to fit it, the holes for the brackets and how to bend the brackets ( I used stiff cardboard templates of the brackets at first and then aluminum which is easier than steel to bend and does not rust.

My grill slats are perpendicular to the ground but if you use one mounting hole in the underside of the grill (not the slat) and one on the slat then in combination with how and where you bend your mounting bracket you should be able to get yours perpendicular without using shims. But if the head is not flush with the slat, aesthetically you may want some kind of filler.

I personally confirmed with the LI manufacturer and the US rep that LIs can be mounted vertical or horizontal. The key things are to not block the line of sight, and have the front surface perpendicular to the ground on both axises and to have the heads as close as possible to all highly reflective parts (license plates, headlights, whatever).

Mounting them entirely behind the grill is great aesthetically and for security, but it will block some line of sight for side shots and perhaps some from overpasses as well.
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  #62  
By MusclezMarinara on 06-29-2010, 10:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TambourineMan View Post
There are some threads of people who have had success mounting behind grills.

But think about it logically. Laser beams are light, invisible light, but light nevertheless. It will only go through transparent objects, but even those can be a problem as some may be reflected back and confuse the the pulse timings needed to confuse the laser gun. Some glass/lenses are treated to purposely reflect back infrared (heat) light.

There is no doubt mounting behind the grill looks better and is more secure, but honestly here is a picture of my front - you can barely see the heads:



You may be protected from direct on shots if mounted behind the grill, but what about ones from off axis?

If you mount behind the grill be aware that not only does the bubble need as much of an unobstructed line of sight as possible, but also the transmitting diode - which located about three quarters of the distance from the bubble.

Here is a pix that shows where the transmitting diode is located:


thats not going to work as the "shifters" need horizontal angles to get a wide laser band across the road, i know this because my company installs them.
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  #63  
By scottp999 on 08-17-2010, 04:44 PM
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A few pics of the rear sensor install on my e92 335. I drilled the licence plate light housings (1/4") to pass the wires through so I would not have to drill holes in the body. The light housings are $7 a piece if I ever want to go back to stock.

Last pic shows the CPU box velcro'd on the ledge in front of the fuse panel. For the rest of the rear wiring, I just ran along inside the trunk panel following the stock wiring harness. It goes into the narrow panel next to the seat and window. That seat piece is easy to pop out. Once you route it down from there you can just run the wire along the door trim panel and up into the area behind the glove box.
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  #64  
By Lotus99 on 08-17-2010, 06:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottp999 View Post
A few pics of the rear sensor install on my e92 335. I drilled the licence plate light housings (1/4") to pass the wires through so I would not have to drill holes in the body. The light housings are $7 a piece if I ever want to go back to stock.

Last pic shows the CPU box velcro'd on the ledge in front of the fuse panel. For the rest of the rear wiring, I just ran along inside the trunk panel following the stock wiring harness. It goes into the narrow panel next to the seat and window. That seat piece is easy to pop out. Once you route it down from there you can just run the wire along the door trim panel and up into the area behind the glove box.
That is a SWEET setup! Two for the rear too! Your front two, how did you mount them? Vertical in the grills, or horizontal behind the grills, or horizontal in the upper inside part of the fog light area (on the outside the mesh)? Those are the best spots I figure. The last one probably the best, though not the stealthiest, as they're closest to the lights and the front plate.

Here's a pic I found of the front of a car:

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  #65  
By scottp999 on 08-17-2010, 08:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lotus99 View Post
That is a SWEET setup! Two for the rear too! Your front two, how did you mount them? Vertical in the grills, or horizontal behind the grills, or horizontal in the upper inside part of the fog light area (on the outside the mesh)? Those are the best spots I figure. The last one probably the best, though not the stealthiest, as they're closest to the lights and the front plate.

Here's a pic I found of the front of a car:
I just quick mounted them in the yellow areas which is right up against my front plate holder. I will probably move them to the red areas in the next few weeks and then head to one of the testing meets after that. On these cars it is really a compromise on the front. I do not want to put them in the grilles and/or vertically.

I did get 2 laser encounters where they are right now, pro laser III. pro laser III guns are known to be easy to jam and they are used almost exclusively where I drive.
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