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      02-13-2010, 02:29 PM   #23
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We don't know the volume... unless you want to fill it with Tide and then vacuum it wout with a Shop-Vac?
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      02-13-2010, 02:46 PM   #24
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Waiting for someone to dump Tide in there and shop-vac it out...
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      02-13-2010, 03:39 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 808MGuy View Post
Just a few observations from my short experience with the SWS.
Thanks for the input...You said your using the SWS-8s for 80hz and below. What are you doing for the 80-150hz range? I know the midrange speakers in the doors are high passed at 150hz. Also the rattling I'm talking about is when when you stand outside the car. I can't hear any of the rattling inside, just outside.
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      02-13-2010, 03:48 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lee Rambler View Post
approximately 1.4ft3, from the best of my measurements and what I could see with the scope... could easily be a bit more or less. There was no port I could see. I did some more tinkering and I'm fairly sure it is indeed a "sealed" enclosure. I had the sill panel and rear sail panels out, and was playing some tones and sweeps, and it's amazing how much leakage there is at the pop clips when they are out. It actually seals up really well when you install them. I use the term sealed loosely because the "enclosure" as it is resonates quite easily, to be expected of thin gauge metal I suppose. With all the panels installed it isn't too noticable inside, though you can certainly hear it outside. I was trying to figure out a good way to damp it, but I think it would be pretty tough to get damping material every where in there...
Ok so I obviously didn't pick this up. What I meant was that the enclosure the sub is attached to is "channeled" into the chamber in the side skirts. I wasn't aware that they were actually "sealed," thus the reason I said they were ported. Thanks for clearing that up though.

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Originally Posted by VP Electricity View Post
Waiting for someone to dump Tide in there and shop-vac it out...
Haha yea it's going to be hard finding a guinea pig for that though. I certainly don't want to pour tide in my enclosures! lol
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      02-13-2010, 04:12 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ********* View Post
Thanks for the input...You said your using the SWS-8s for 80hz and below. What are you doing for the 80-150hz range? I know the midrange speakers in the doors are high passed at 150hz. Also the rattling I'm talking about is when when you stand outside the car. I can't hear any of the rattling inside, just outside.
I'm actually running my a/d/s 344is mids down to 100 Hz right now. I had them down to 90 Hz and they did okay there too but I'm still messing around with the tuning. The whole system goes as follows:

Zapco DC 650.6
a/d/s 344is 4" mids playing 100 Hz - 6300 Hz off channels 3/4 (50W/ch)
a/d/s px concept tweeters playing 6300 Hz up off channels 1/2 (50W/ch)
Earthquake SWS-8 playing 80 Hz down off channels 5/6 bridged at 2 ohms mono (500W @ 2 ohms)

Right now I haven't really done too much EQ I've just been trying to play with crossovers and gains to get everything to blend well. Once I get that worked out, I will go and make minimal adjustments via the EQ.

As far as the rattling, I've tried listening from the outside and haven't noticed any rattling. I'll check it again today to see if I missed it.
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      02-13-2010, 04:37 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 808MGuy View Post
I'm actually running my a/d/s 344is mids down to 100 Hz right now. I had them down to 90 Hz and they did okay there too but I'm still messing around with the tuning. The whole system goes as follows:

Zapco DC 650.6
a/d/s 344is 4" mids playing 100 Hz - 6300 Hz off channels 3/4 (50W/ch)
a/d/s px concept tweeters playing 6300 Hz up off channels 1/2 (50W/ch)
Earthquake SWS-8 playing 80 Hz down off channels 5/6 bridged at 2 ohms mono (500W @ 2 ohms)

Right now I haven't really done too much EQ I've just been trying to play with crossovers and gains to get everything to blend well. Once I get that worked out, I will go and make minimal adjustments via the EQ.

As far as the rattling, I've tried listening from the outside and haven't noticed any rattling. I'll check it again today to see if I missed it.
Interesting. I wish I could have a setup like that but I don't have the time to research and install something like that. The rattling is only present at higher volumes...if you don't have rattling then your one of the lucky ones. Mine sounds horrible from the outside. It's like the car is broken....I'm hoping the 12" Type-R I'm adding in the trunk will allow me tune out the low frequencies in the SWS-8s enough so that they don't rattle as much.
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      02-13-2010, 05:03 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ********* View Post
Interesting. I wish I could have a setup like that but I don't have the time to research and install something like that. The rattling is only present at higher volumes...if you don't have rattling then your one of the lucky ones. Mine sounds horrible from the outside. It's like the car is broken....I'm hoping the 12" Type-R I'm adding in the trunk will allow me tune out the low frequencies in the SWS-8s enough so that they don't rattle as much.
I actually did it very slowly since I only had a few hours a weekend to work on it. I did it in a way that allowed me to progress while still keeping the OEM system functional so I didn't have to live with no sounds for months. The install took me a total of 2 months to complete. First I prepped the OEM system wiring with molex connectors so that when the time came to actually hook up the new amp, it was just a matter of unplugging the OEM amp and plugging in the new amp. After that, I ran the power wires and just left the circuit breaker open until it was time to power up the amp. Then I had some adapters for the 4" mids made and test fitted those but didn't actually install them yet. I also bought new window trims so I could mod them to mount aftermarket tweeters. The reason for buying new ones was so I could work on it while the OEM system still worked and if I need to return the vehicle to stock, its as easy as switching back to the old trim. Then I mounted the amp and ran all the wiring. The wiring to the front doors was just left hanging until the speakers were actually installed. The wiring for the SWS was pulled into the cab but bundled under the rear seat until I was ready to install the SWS. On the last day, I installed the mids and tweeters in the doors, did the mods to the OEM enclosures and mounted the SWS, and then made the final connection to the amp to route the signal from the OEM HU to the amp. Now that the system is functioning, its just a matter of tuning but at least I have sound. The result is a complete system with 0 days of down time. The longest I worked on it for any single day was about 3 hours.

Here's a link to some of the pictures from the install

http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=341527


Keep in mind that I didn't have the upgraded individual audio system. I only had the basic hi-fi system so the integration of the OEM HU wiring is much easier. With logic 7 or individual audio, you'd have to install more molex connectors since you would be tapping the signal after the OEM amp not before like I did.
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Last edited by 808MGuy; 02-13-2010 at 06:08 PM.
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      02-13-2010, 05:14 PM   #30
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^^ That's awesome man. Very clean install I like the labels on everything. Makes everything easy to ID. Once you're done tuning the sound to the way you like it you'll have the ultimate sound and driving machine haha.
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      02-13-2010, 07:58 PM   #31
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Just went outside to do play some frequency sweeps and sine waves. Looks like I do have the rattle which starts to become audible right around 50 Hz. I also did check the lower end of the spectrum and output of the SWS is pretty strong at 31 Hz. You can still feel it but not hear too much at 25 Hz and at 20 Hz its pretty much non-existent. I was thinking about doing a subsonic filter to cut off the output under 35 Hz but for now I think I'll leave it alone.

I'm hoping to do some extensive tuning on Monday and maybe even play with time alignment.
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      02-14-2010, 09:42 AM   #32
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If your SWS8 is not doing much below 60hz you need to look at your install again, I can guarantee the driver is not sealed properly in the enclosure.

I tried to get it sealed with sealant tape twice and in the end gave up.
Bought some bathroom sealant and used that instead, I then went from it playing to 55hz to play down to 32hz loud, it started to drop off from there but it would play at 28hz at -5db which is pretty impressive.
Can't think of any music that would need lower than that other than some Organ music.
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      02-14-2010, 05:58 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gIzzE View Post
If your SWS8 is not doing much below 60hz you need to look at your install again, I can guarantee the driver is not sealed properly in the enclosure.

I tried to get it sealed with sealant tape twice and in the end gave up.
Bought some bathroom sealant and used that instead, I then went from it playing to 55hz to play down to 32hz loud, it started to drop off from there but it would play at 28hz at -5db which is pretty impressive.
Can't think of any music that would need lower than that other than some Organ music.
I actually never tested how low my SWS-8s go. It's just that I'm adding a 12" sub in the back so I don't need the SWS-8s hitting below 60hz.
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      02-14-2010, 05:59 PM   #34
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I'll change the section about thsi when I get access to my computer. I'm on my iPhone roght now.
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      02-14-2010, 06:00 PM   #35
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Well I had an Aliante 12si sub in my car and once I got the SWS8s installed properly I actually took it out, they are that good when you get it right.
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      02-15-2010, 10:44 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gIzzE View Post
Well I had an Aliante 12si sub in my car and once I got the SWS8s installed properly I actually took it out, they are that good when you get it right.
nice..cant wait to get them
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      02-17-2010, 09:46 AM   #37
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So there was another thread started on this topic recently and the OP obviously didn't search...How can I get this stickied?
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      02-24-2010, 02:29 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VP Electricity View Post
My SWS8 opened up on midbass a good bit after breaking in... but I'd still rather have a speaker stronger above 125-150...
Hey VP, it sounds like you're warming up to the SWS8 a little, though I know you prefer the Morel ADMW SW 9. I'm looking to do midbass underseat and sub-bass in the trunk, but can't justify spending 3x as much for the Morels. What are your thoughts for the budget-conscious enthusiast? Would the OEM woofers with amplification and tuning would be as good for that application? I'm running HiFi if it matters.

Thanks!
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      02-24-2010, 07:38 AM   #39
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The only issues I see with the first post is your recommendation to run them in stereo and your comment about them playing midrange. You know where the stick crossover point is (160Hz) and that's WELL below the point where you can hear any stereo separation. Plus, you're using them as a sub, not a midbass driver, which is another good reason to run them in mono. I prefer 2 Ohms stereo but either option will work fine.
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      02-24-2010, 01:01 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 808MGuy View Post
Earthquake SWS-8 playing 80 Hz down off channels 5/6 bridged at 2 ohms mono (500W @ 2 ohms).
i was running them 120hz down, then switched to 90hz down
they sound much better, less boomy
i used to hear the bass coming from below the seat
now it feels like its coming from the door speakers
i like it much more
i am crossing over my door speakers at 60hz
and believe it or not they sound great
but i think the slight resonance i am hearing is the plastic cage of the actual speaker
not something else vibrating
i am using the logic 7 speakers
very happy with them otherwise, except at certain frequencies they resonate
can't think of a fix for that
i tried using weather sealant foam like you did on the 344is
improved, but not removed the resonance
any ideas?
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      02-24-2010, 02:16 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quality_sound View Post
The only issues I see with the first post is your recommendation to run them in stereo and your comment about them playing midrange. You know where the stick crossover point is (160Hz) and that's WELL below the point where you can hear any stereo separation. Plus, you're using them as a sub, not a midbass driver, which is another good reason to run them in mono. I prefer 2 Ohms stereo but either option will work fine.
Thanks I'll edit my first post. I intend on adding a trunk sub that's why I want the SWS-8 to be run in stereo so they'll handle more midbass but this isn't everyone's case so you're right.
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      02-24-2010, 02:49 PM   #42
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You're going to want to change them out then. The SWS's blow goats as midbass drivers.
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      02-24-2010, 02:52 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quality_sound View Post
You're going to want to change them out then. The SWS's blow goats as midbass drivers.
Agreed. If you're planning a trunk mounted sub to take over the low frequencies, there are better choices for midbass duties.
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      10-11-2010, 08:51 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 808MGuy View Post
Agreed. If you're planning a trunk mounted sub to take over the low frequencies, there are better choices for midbass duties.
What's Ideal here then (assuming sub-bass in trunk)...SSMB8's?
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