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      03-09-2009, 09:29 AM   #89
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I NEED HELP GUYS!
I replaced the rear brakes and the sensor too and I'm still getting the red "BRAKE" light in the dash and the car in a jack. How do I reset this? I went to the service menu and reset the interval for the brake service. It now reads "-----". Am I missing something here? I hope I don't have to bring it to the dealer... thanks!
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      03-12-2009, 06:18 AM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by avilla926 View Post
I NEED HELP GUYS!
I replaced the rear brakes and the sensor too and I'm still getting the red "BRAKE" light in the dash and the car in a jack. How do I reset this? I went to the service menu and reset the interval for the brake service. It now reads "-----". Am I missing something here? I hope I don't have to bring it to the dealer... thanks!
Did you manage to clear the light? pls let us know how
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      03-12-2009, 01:22 PM   #91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wilkoal View Post
Did you manage to clear the light? pls let us know how
did you recently lowered your car?
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      03-19-2009, 11:14 AM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by avilla926 View Post
I NEED HELP GUYS!
I replaced the rear brakes and the sensor too and I'm still getting the red "BRAKE" light in the dash and the car in a jack. How do I reset this? I went to the service menu and reset the interval for the brake service. It now reads "-----". Am I missing something here? I hope I don't have to bring it to the dealer... thanks!
bump and info maybe...

i'm pre 29.2 and took my car in for brakes at 15K .. they replaced rear pads and rotors... but claimed they could not (or would not ??) reset the light unless i let them update the programming in my car...

car is reporting front and back need replacing.. but the dealer said the front was still ok....

i have the BT scan tool... i played with it one night.. thought i went through everything..... didn't see anything about resetting brake wear warnings/codes...

not sure how to reset it... obviously if just replacing the pads/rotors/sensor would do it.. then the light should have reset it self...

does anyone know how to reset this ??

ALSO.... how quickly/often do rotors wear ? replaced rear at 15K.. should i plan on replacing rotors everytime i do pads on this car ? if so.. at $400ish for a set of rotors... i'm tempted to buy a BBK (but then my 17" spare might be an issue)
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      09-25-2009, 04:49 AM   #93
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Fantastic DIY on brake renewal but..

When you push back the caliper back into the housing I was told to clamp the brake hose and open the brake bleed screw. This is so the excess fluid can be released out of the caliper and not back through the master cylinder as this can invert the rubber seals etc and cause damage. As a precautionary it's probably not advisable to force the fluid back to the reservoir.
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      09-25-2009, 07:34 PM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by inthemiddle View Post
bump and info maybe...

i'm pre 29.2 and took my car in for brakes at 15K .. they replaced rear pads and rotors... but claimed they could not (or would not ??) reset the light unless i let them update the programming in my car...

car is reporting front and back need replacing.. but the dealer said the front was still ok....

i have the BT scan tool... i played with it one night.. thought i went through everything..... didn't see anything about resetting brake wear warnings/codes...

not sure how to reset it... obviously if just replacing the pads/rotors/sensor would do it.. then the light should have reset it self...

does anyone know how to reset this ??

ALSO.... how quickly/often do rotors wear ? replaced rear at 15K.. should i plan on replacing rotors everytime i do pads on this car ? if so.. at $400ish for a set of rotors... i'm tempted to buy a BBK (but then my 17" spare might be an issue)
I'm surprised you needed to change rotors and pads at 15K miles. Pads ok, but rotors? I'm just over 20K miles and track my car heavily (15+ days per year) and I am just changing pads (have 30% remaining front and back). Unless you seriously warped the rotors they should be good for a long time yet. I'm just turning mine due to a small aboration on one rotor. Something sounds fishy.

Others should chime in.
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      11-09-2009, 05:39 PM   #95
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Step #6

First of all Great Write up! I just had a couple of questions. On step six you say to remove the sensor, did you have to buy a new one or re-use the old one? Also, where did you purchase your brakes and are they ceramic. Sorry, for all the questions this is my first brake job.
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      11-10-2009, 03:02 PM   #96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by agonzalez View Post
On step six you say to remove the sensor, did you have to buy a new one or re-use the old one?
It is strongly recommended that you replace the sensors whenever you do a brake job. The sensors are like 20 bucks or so, and can be found at your local dealer.
*Note: there are only two sensors for the entire car. One sensor serves the front axle and one serves the rear axle.
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      12-09-2009, 05:45 PM   #97
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Replacing Brake Pads on an E90 - Warning

A word of advice for DIYers. When you replace the pads on an E90 you should also replace the sensors whether they are worn thru or not. I recently did all four wheels on my 66k mile E90, I had 6mm left on the pads. I wanted to replace the pads to get rid of the black dust from the BMW pads.

I bought a set of premium ceramics from David Zechausen, these new pads fit and worked beautifully. I had no "brake" warning lights before the install or after the install.

Then after a few days of driving, I decided to reset the miles on the CBS computer - thats when I got an alarm telling me that the brake pads were worn and needed replacement. After many attempts to reset, and the advice of a friendly BMW tech, I replaced both original but "good" sensors with new ones and VOILA the brake light and warning went away. It seems that the sensors on the E90 are different from those on older BMWs and they have two sets of wear elements, the first element wears down to tell the computer that the pad is half worn and the second element tells the computer that the pad is toast. The first element won't set off a brake alarm UNLESS you try to reset the CBS mileage.

If you are replacing pads on a very low mileage car you can probably skip the sensor replacement but it is a good idea
to measure the resistance of the sensor at its plug - anything over 1 ohm of resistance could trigger a CBS brake light
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      03-03-2010, 03:51 PM   #98
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I just finished changing out my pads, somewhat more diffcult compared to most cars, I think just because of the clips and the way the pads sit inside the calipers. Anyways just wanted to share my experience and a few tips that may help others.

Overall everything went pretty smoothly just like any other brake pad change, but there were a few things that got me but were quick to remedy.

First, problem I ran into for myself was that I couldn't get the caliper off the front rotor because the old brake pads had made a groove into the rotor (which obviously need resurfacing now) basically giving it a nice outside lip on the rotor which pretty much kept the caliper from being remove because it lock up with the pads. So, I needed more space between the pad and rotor, which I accomplished by placing my C-clamp onto the piston within the groove where the brake sensor comes out and basically push the piston back just enough to give some space for the brake pads to get past the lip on the rotor.

Second, the front clip. First off careful pulling them off, they fly. Anyways I've noticed that some members have gotten a bit confused when inserting the front clip. I actually found it pretty easy to reinstall, which I did by inserting both of the ends of the clip into its original place, then with a flat head slid over the clip away from the center of the rotor until the tab in the middle of the clip was able to sit itself into the groove on the caliper. The rear clip you simply have to slide downward, don't have any pictures but will get some up that may help if needed.

Well that's pretty much any speedbump that I encounter. Also I needed an air gun to take out the 18mm and 16mm bolts, mine were pretty stuck there, used some liquid wrench as well.

I have included pictures of what was explained using Mr. 5 pictures

hope this helps.
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      03-05-2010, 02:30 PM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jack1526 View Post
First, problem I ran into for myself was that I couldn't get the caliper off the front rotor because the old brake pads had made a groove into the rotor (which obviously need resurfacing now) basically giving it a nice outside lip on the rotor which pretty much kept the caliper from being remove because it lock up with the pads. So, I needed more space between the pad and rotor, which I accomplished by placing my C-clamp onto the piston within the groove where the brake sensor comes out and basically push the piston back just enough to give some space for the brake pads to get past the lip on the rotor.
Did you measure the thickness of the rotor?

I have 51k on my E90 and never had the front brake done before, measured the front rotors and it's at the min. limit so got new rotors waiting to go on along with new pads and brake sensor.

Since you mentioned the lip that was formed on your rotors, it may be due to be replaced since it worn out to it's min. limits. The limit is also stamped on the rotor hub itself.
20.4mm is the min. thickness to scrap the rotor.

You do have to compress the piston back into the caliper before removing it from the disc. This goes for the same for most disc brakes.

Last edited by 777ER; 03-08-2010 at 07:28 PM.
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      03-08-2010, 07:38 PM   #100
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Here's some good tips for the E90 front brakes:

Tools needed:
  • Screwdriver
  • 6mm allen bit on socket (for rotor hat bolt)
  • 7mm allen bit on socket (for caliper mounting bolts)
  • 16mm socket for caliper bracket to car
  • torque wrench

Torque values:
  • Brake caliper hex bolts: 22 ft/lbs
  • Brake caliper mounting bracket (bigger bolts) 81 ft/lbs
  • Brake disc rotor hat to hub: 10ft/lbs
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      03-21-2010, 10:19 PM   #101
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Great DIY just did the job today took about 2.5 - 3 Hrs

Just replaced my front pads and rotors today, no problems, just need a little muscle removing the caliper from the rotor and the 16mm or the 5/8" bolt that holds the caliper on.

Heres my take:

Front brake pad and rotor change on a E90 330Xi

I used this tutorial/DIY as a guide and its pretty simple job, i have an mechanical ability/and my job entails me working with my hands and using tools, so I felt very comfortable doing this job myself (I had a helping hand from my friend)

I used OEM pads, rotors and sensors.

- Caliper

The bolt that holds the caliper on, the 16mm for the front caliper, I found that a 5/8" held a little tighter so I used that instead of the 16mm. These bolts were really on there so I sprayed some Penetrating Oil on the top and bottom bolts to help get them off. Worked very well and came off alot easier.

It was tough to get the caliper off over the lip of the rotor so i used the end of my breaker bar to help pry and loosen it a bit from lip and then used the rubber mallet a bit till it was able to get it off by hand. But some muscle would due if you don't want to wack the caliper

- Pads

Removing the pads came right out, no issues
I had to bend the spring on the back of the back pad (one that goes in the piston w/ the 3 arms) a little bit to make it fit in the piston easier. Other side it slipped right in so no bending was necessary for the other side.

- Sensor

Was easy! You just yank the old one out, and follow the cable of the sensor to the little box, un-clipping the cable as you follow it to the box. Open the box and unplug it.
New sensor was a little difficult. First install the new pad, there's a groove for the sensor in the pad. Then plug the new sensor into the connection in the plastic box and follow the same way the old cable was clipped in, clipping the cable back in till you get up to the sensor part. Take the actual sensor and push it into the new pad were there is a groove for it this is were i took me a couple tries to get the sensor into the groove, it just wouldn't clip in. I let my friend give it a try and he tried numerous times till he used a flat head screw driver to help guide it in and he got it.

reset the sensor using this video...



- Rotor

Rotors were easy to take off and on. Undo the 6mm hex bolt, a little Penetrating Oil around the hub and a rubber mallet to wack the rotor a couple times at an 45 degree angle at the top of it. Came off and put the new OEM rotor on with not problems, screwed it back on with the 6mm hex bolt and good to go.




I used this DIY from Mr. 5 for the process, this is just my take on what i did and a little bit more explaining some steps.

Good Luck!
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      04-08-2010, 05:59 PM   #102
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I need to replace my front pads here in the near future.. I'm looking at this diagram and wondering what part I actually need to order to replace the sensor?

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...57&hg=34&fg=05

If it's 13, why are they displaying two different part numbers?

Finally, suggestions for brake pads? I've always heard good things about hawk pads, but what does everyone here think? I'm not all that concerned with dust, I would rather just be able to stop on a dime and have good life in the pads.
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      04-08-2010, 06:10 PM   #103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwgvsc View Post
I need to replace my front pads here in the near future.. I'm looking at this diagram and wondering what part I actually need to order to replace the sensor?

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...57&hg=34&fg=05

If it's 13, why are they displaying two different part numbers?

Finally, suggestions for brake pads? I've always heard good things about hawk pads, but what does everyone here think? I'm not all that concerned with dust, I would rather just be able to stop on a dime and have good life in the pads.

i had hawks plenty of times..only problem is one type is loud as hell while cold..and the other one generates tons of brake dust
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      04-08-2010, 09:51 PM   #104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rault18 View Post
i had hawks plenty of times..only problem is one type is loud as hell while cold..and the other one generates tons of brake dust
That is true, I had Hawk HPS and HP on my '99 Z28 and it was the same thing, but they sure do stop good.

Don't get the HP+ otherwise your rotors will look chewed up like the pads are made out of concrete. It's really for road racing type.
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      04-09-2010, 05:01 PM   #105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwgvsc View Post
I need to replace my front pads here in the near future.. I'm looking at this diagram and wondering what part I actually need to order to replace the sensor?

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...57&hg=34&fg=05

If it's 13, why are they displaying two different part numbers?

Finally, suggestions for brake pads? I've always heard good things about hawk pads, but what does everyone here think? I'm not all that concerned with dust, I would rather just be able to stop on a dime and have good life in the pads.
Good question. What are the correct brake pad wear sensor P/Ns. www.realoem.com lists two P/Ns for the front brakes and two for the back.
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      04-09-2010, 07:28 PM   #106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark14617 View Post
Good question. What are the correct brake pad wear sensor P/Ns. www.realoem.com lists two P/Ns for the front brakes and two for the back.
Check out www.getbmwparts.com and pick your year make and model and it"ll put you in the right direction of part numbers for your car
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      04-15-2010, 02:19 PM   #107
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is it okay to use non OEM brake pads or will it throw an error? cuz right now my brake light is on.
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      04-15-2010, 05:26 PM   #108
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Originally Posted by lovemyBimmer View Post
is it okay to use non OEM brake pads or will it throw an error? cuz right now my brake light is on.
you can use non oem. Cool Carbon break pads are a nice choice with same stopping power as oem
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      05-13-2010, 08:08 PM   #109
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Hey guys,

going to do this, this weekend, i got the frenetik rotors / and some performance pads.

When I used to do my breakes on the VW, I had to use a special took for the rear to disengage the parking brake(I think).

Does the E90 have the same thing?

From what I read, the front and rear are the same.

Is the parking brake done differently?

Thanx
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      05-14-2010, 02:29 PM   #110
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Anyone?

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