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      11-03-2009, 05:25 PM   #23
Jesse Wilson
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I just used this guide and it worked very well. Feel free to put the screwdriver through the top of the coil and use it as a bar if you need some help pulling it out. Oh and watch all the little clips under the cowling because they break easy. Nothing a little superglue won't fix though.


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      01-31-2010, 12:29 AM   #24
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Its the exact same process for the 325i. I belive its even the same spark plug. I used a standard 5/8 socket and it worked just fine for me, no need for a 12 point socket, or spcial bmw socket. Just make sure the plug is gapped correctly and use a torque wrench.
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      03-17-2010, 12:24 PM   #25
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Just called my Stealership here in vegas and they want 30.71 plus tax per plug...I see that price kinda high... what r u guys paying per plug????

thanks!
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      03-17-2010, 06:40 PM   #26
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Plugs come pre-gapped from the factory. As long as you buy all NGK or all Bosch from BMW you should be fine. As for the 325i, the plugs and coils have the same part number (I think) and the blocks are identical. This DIY should work with any N52. You can probably use it with an N54. It will be slightly different but an engine's and engine. My friend's 540i has a similar process except he as 8 plugs obviously.

If you see oil in the hole where the coil goes, your valve cover gasket is leaking. Not a huge deal but if you see oil in there you should think about replacing it.
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      03-17-2010, 06:41 PM   #27
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Just called my Stealership here in vegas and they want 30.71 plus tax per plug...I see that price kinda high... what r u guys paying per plug????

thanks!
Ticher (www.getbmwparts.com) has them for half that I think.
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      03-18-2010, 10:24 AM   #28
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holy moly the price different is just insane!!! on every part!!!

here in vegas...its all about the dealership treating u bad and raping u on the prices!! that page has nice prices!

thanks for the advice
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      03-21-2010, 01:11 PM   #29
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Thanks for the write up. This was a great help



its way easier than changing the 4 plugs on an Sti
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      03-24-2010, 07:40 AM   #30
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no problem...don't know why the admin did not make this a sticky in the DIY section.

Yes, buying from a local dealer vs buying from Tischer is like night and day...Tischer rocks...
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      05-01-2010, 03:21 PM   #31
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      05-10-2010, 03:34 PM   #32
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Curious as to what the proper gap for the e9x is supposed to be?
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      05-20-2010, 08:32 PM   #33
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Please make this a sticky DIY!
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      05-23-2010, 01:07 PM   #34
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Revised NGK plug

I just replaced my plugs this weekend, 66K mls, dead easy to do. It now idles smoother from a cold start. I went with the revised NGK plug that produces a more powerful spark, which might be reason enough to change them early, but I've also read that as the plug becomes weaker towards the end of it's life, it stresses the coil more, and may lead to it failing sooner. I don't know if that's true, but given the cost of coils, seems like cheap insurance.

In the photos of the plugs above, bear in mind that the plugs shown aren't the same. NGK revised the plug for the N52 for 3/2007, so the difference you see is probably that revision. The old plug is NGK part ILZFR6D11, and the new is PLZFR6A11S (I can just make out the part number stamped in the collar of the new plug in the photo above.) Make sure when you buy new plugs that you're getting the updated plug, I saw both avail for purchase on-line, including at the partsgeek link below. Realoem parts page:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...17&hg=12&fg=05

I bought mine from Partsgeek for under $11 each.

http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/200...park_plug.html

The gap for the PLZFR6A11S is 0.43. The Bentley has the torque as: 23nm +-3 nm (18 +- 2 ft-lbs) with copper-based anti-seize, hand thread initially to prevent cross-threading.

Also, since you'll have the engine cover off, clean under the rubber gasket around the oil fill cap. It's designed to trap any oil that's spilled when filling.

Update: after the change, it would rough idle for short periods of time. I read that with a BT tool I could clear historical info in the ECU so it relearns with the new plugs, the alternative is drive it enough miles so the previous plug info is aged out, and that works. Took ~500 miles. And yes, the new plug did make a difference, it's stronger in the mid-range.

Last edited by AlanAZ; 08-12-2012 at 11:39 AM.
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      06-01-2010, 08:55 PM   #35
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Anyone know what the copper plug model number would be? Before anyone chimes in that you should use double plats of iridium, I figure..it'll take me less than 1 hour to perform the work and NGK coppers go for 2 maybe 3 dollars. I enjoy working on my car and copper gives you a better spark too. This is what I've done on my infiniti for the past 2 changes, and have to say, I'm pretty happy.
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      06-21-2010, 11:25 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by txusa03 View Post
How difficult would it be to remove these plug later on if I did not use anti-seize

No special tools on 330i except the torque wrench.
No anti sieze on plug threads in an aluminum head..not good!...Steel threads into aluminum housing really sieze up over time, with heat...so it will depend on how long you leave the plugs in there....DO NOT attempt to remove plugs with engine hot...stone cold engine.
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      06-25-2010, 07:50 AM   #37
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Hi,

Awesome DIY. How did you get the ignition coils out without removing the cylinder???

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      06-25-2010, 01:52 PM   #38
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Ignition coils just plug in. No need to remove any cylinders.
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      06-25-2010, 05:30 PM   #39
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Ignition Coil

I would assume they just pop out but in step #7 there is a silver cylinder connected to the engine that is partly covering the two middle coils. Any advice?
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      06-26-2010, 07:49 AM   #40
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Quote:
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I would assume they just pop out but in step #7 there is a silver cylinder connected to the engine that is partly covering the two middle coils. Any advice?
That's the Valvetronic motor. Just work around it. The coils come out with it in place; it's just a bit tight to grab them. You can slip a screwdriver in through the loop once the holddown clamp is popped up then set a small block of wood under the screwdriver to lever the coil off the plug.
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      08-01-2010, 09:04 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by talisman311 View Post
Anyone know what the copper plug model number would be? Before anyone chimes in that you should use double plats of iridium, I figure..it'll take me less than 1 hour to perform the work and NGK coppers go for 2 maybe 3 dollars. I enjoy working on my car and copper gives you a better spark too. This is what I've done on my infiniti for the past 2 changes, and have to say, I'm pretty happy.
According to Sparkplugs.com NGK does not make a copper plug for the 330i. Denso does model number K20HR-u11.

I agree these are easy to change but since the car was designed for iridium, not sure that copper is the best way to go but according to the sparkplugs.com site the above listed model will work. If you decide to go this route let us know how it works out.
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      08-01-2010, 11:51 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlanAZ View Post
I just replaced my plugs this weekend, 66K mls, dead easy to do. It now idles smoother from a cold start. I went with the revised NGK plug to produce a more powerful spark, which might be reason enough to change them early, but I've also read that as the plug becomes weaker towards the end of it's life, it stresses the coil more, and may lead to it failing sooner. I don't know if that's true, but given the cost of coils, seems like cheap insurance.

In the photos of the plugs above, bear in mind that the plugs shown aren't the same. NGK revised the plug for the N52 for 3/2007, so the difference you see is probably that revision. The old plug is NGK part ILZFR6D11, and the new is PLZFR6A11S (I can just make out the part number stamped in the collar of the plug in the photo.) Make sure when you buy new plugs that you're getting the updated plug, I saw both avail for purchase on-line, including at the link below. Realoem parts page:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...17&hg=12&fg=05

I bought mine from Partsgeek for under $11 each.

http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/200...park_plug.html

Also, since you'll have the engine cover off, clean under the rubber gasket around the oil fill cap. It's designed to trap any oil that's spilled when filling.

Update: after the change, it would rough idle for short periods of time. I read that with a BT tool I could clear historical info in the ECU so it relearns with the new plugs, the alternative is drive it enough miles so the previous plug info is aged out, and that works. Took 500+ miles.
1) Let us know if you are getting better gas mileagae
2) I wonder if you reset the spark plug info on the CBS using the stalk would that reset the ecu? Here is the link for people that don't have the BT scan tool. http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=360706
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      08-10-2010, 05:53 PM   #43
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Quote:
Let us know if you are getting better gas mileage
Gas mileage is about the same, but feels sparkier (more power) in the mid-range.
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      08-11-2010, 08:01 AM   #44
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I updated the thread to include the anti seize lube...
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