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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > AUDIO/VIDEO + BLUETOOTH + Electronics/Alarm/Software > JBL MS-8 Processor Integration Thread



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      06-26-2010, 02:58 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gemurdock View Post
Anyone considered using a coaxial for the center speaker?
I'm sure that would work also but I believe using the exact same driver that is in the doors/sail panels will sound a little bit better. If matching the door speakers is not an option, I believe Technic posted some info on a good quality center speaker a while back so you may want to ask him for further details.
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      06-26-2010, 06:57 PM   #46
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Originally Posted by kaigoss69 View Post
Look at the pictures on the first page and you can answer your own question.
Got it -- thanks!
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      06-27-2010, 01:10 PM   #47
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Originally Posted by VP Electricity View Post
Different Hus have different numbers of clicks. If you watch the MS-8 screen, it tells you where to set it. But I know that some BMW head units are clipping at 47, so I wonder if clipping the inputs is your popping problem.
I turned the volume down on the MS-8 and cranked the L7 amp up to 55 clicks...no audible distortion. I then took it up to 60 clicks and the woofers under the seats started to break up around 57, and distorted badly at 60.

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Originally Posted by VP Electricity View Post
How many seats did you tunr for? Listem from? How would you describe Dr and Pass imaging when set to "Front"?
I just now tuned the passenger seat as well. When set to "passenger", the image is a bit too far toward the center for my liking (but it could have been the result of my head positioning during calibration as well). But when I put it on "front", the image was right in front of me (did not check from the driver seat but would assume similar results). So it would seem as if the processing successfully eliminated the steering wheel.
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      06-29-2010, 12:48 AM   #48
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Hooked up my JL 600/4 today to light a fire under the 8" woofers and it worked very nicely. Set the high-pass on the amp to 50Hz so that I could crank 'em up without having to worry too much about causing irreparable damage. Mid-bass is nice and tight now, volume on-par with the rest of the system, but the short time I listened to it I was definitely missing some stereo separation - I was hoping the MS-8 could somehow magically make those speakers sound like they were in the doors but oh well.....(can't have it all I guess).
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      07-06-2010, 09:30 PM   #49
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Installed Morel CW-8 woofers today.





First listening impressions confirm that I made a good choice.
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      07-06-2010, 09:54 PM   #50
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Given the T/S parameters of that driver, how large would you guess the effective volume is?

As I recall, it wants an even bigger chamber than the ADMW9's we failed to get in... so I'm guessing the MS-8 is tuning the response for the driver in that application, right?
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      07-06-2010, 10:49 PM   #51
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CW-8 vs. ADMW9:

Large Box (1 cu ft):


Medium Box (.6 cu ft)


Small Box (.3 cu ft)


With the lower Qts, the CW-8 actually "wants" a smaller box than the ADMW. Since we don't know the actual box size, it's all speculation, of course.
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      07-06-2010, 11:07 PM   #52
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If the numbers we ran before had indicated that the CW8 liked a smaller box, I never would have suggested the ADMW.

Then again, I thought the CW8 were the cast-frame drivers, so I guess I was smoking crack the whole time.
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      07-06-2010, 11:19 PM   #53
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Oh, the CW isn't listed, I pulled the CAW woofer. That one IS cast frame. That's where I goofed.
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      07-06-2010, 11:25 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VP Electricity View Post
If the numbers we ran before had indicated that the CW8 liked a smaller box, I never would have suggested the ADMW.

Then again, I thought the CW8 were the cast-frame drivers, so I guess I was smoking crack the whole time.
Well, the ADMW models much better in free air and without a direct comparison it is impossible to tell which is the better driver for this application.
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      07-11-2010, 11:52 AM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kaigoss69 View Post
Oh yes, and the easiest way to do the wiring is to use Technic's awesome top-hifi harness. You don't need to cut ANY OEM wires for this install!
Where can I buy such a harness? I googled Technic's harness with no luck.

Last edited by demon-; 07-11-2010 at 04:59 PM. Reason: typo
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      07-11-2010, 12:04 PM   #56
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Just PM Technic. He does have an awsome product. You'll be very happy with it!
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      07-11-2010, 12:23 PM   #57
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Where can I buy such a hardness? I googled Technic's hardness with no luck.
Calm down bro... I'm not running a porn site.
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      07-11-2010, 12:27 PM   #58
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I've always felt you had a high durometer.
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      07-11-2010, 12:38 PM   #59
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Calm down bro... I'm not running a porn site.
hilarious
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      07-11-2010, 04:57 PM   #60
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Has anyone considered using a mid-bass driver instead of a subwoofer under the seats? I am personally not a fan of deep bass in my music. I wonder how degraded the sound would be from a 6.5 mid-bass driver mounted under the seat. It certainly is not an ideal place to put a mid-range driver. I'm just not crazy about leaving 4" components all alone to take on all mid-range responsibilities.
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      07-11-2010, 06:40 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by demon- View Post
Has anyone considered using a mid-bass driver instead of a subwoofer under the seats? I am personally not a fan of deep bass in my music. I wonder how degraded the sound would be from a 6.5 mid-bass driver mounted under the seat. It certainly is not an ideal place to put a mid-range driver. I'm just not crazy about leaving 4" components all alone to take on all mid-range responsibilities.
Just because it is 8" does not mean it is not a mid-bass driver! A 6.5" driver naturally will not move as much air as an 8", so it would be a waste to put 6.5's down there, IMO. As you can see above, I've put in Morel CW-8s which work great but no longer commercially available. What I would recommend, based on forum member Technic's experience, is the Kicker SSMB8. Also, the Morel ADMW SW9 also seems to work great, according to VP Electricity.
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      07-11-2010, 07:04 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by demon- View Post
I'm just not crazy about leaving 4" components all alone to take on all mid-range responsibilities.
I'm not crazy about having midrange coming out from under my ass.


Use a good 4", they handle it just fine. What is your concern?

Technically speaking, a woofer plays bass (the bass region is 300 Hz and below), and a subwoofer plays 50 Hz and below. So the term "subwoofer" is misused a lot. In reality, what we put under there are woofers.

Jehnert does make door panel segments that match beautifully and use dual 6.5 in the door (replaces the pocket). They are available from the EU. A few of us can order them.
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      07-11-2010, 07:10 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by demon- View Post
I am personally not a fan of deep bass in my music
Are you not a fan of the deep bass IN your music, or are you not a fan of adding more deep bass TO your music? Big difference, philosophically and pragmatically.

If this is for the E60, the doors are shallower than the E90. I recommend the Rainbow Sound Line 210.25 if you upgrade the fronts.

If you are adding an MS-8 to the E60, and it's not Logic 7, that should be interesting. Use the speaker outputs from the M-ASK, not the preamp outputs, and then use the speaker outputs from the sub amp as well.

I've never tried putting Morels into an E60, so I don't know if they go. I know they don't go into an E70 X5 without major custom work.

I think that with an MS-8, the SWS8 is probably a fine woofer, given that the MS-8 has 8 opportunities per channel to fix any sonic issues.
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      07-11-2010, 08:41 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VP Electricity View Post
I'm not crazy about having midrange coming out from under my ass.


Use a good 4", they handle it just fine. What is your concern?

Technically speaking, a woofer plays bass (the bass region is 300 Hz and below), and a subwoofer plays 50 Hz and below. So the term "subwoofer" is misused a lot. In reality, what we put under there are woofers.

Jehnert does make door panel segments that match beautifully and use dual 6.5 in the door (replaces the pocket). They are available from the EU. A few of us can order them.
That's the reason I always call the OEM drivers there woofers and never subs.
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      07-11-2010, 09:49 PM   #65
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I drive a e60, hifi/non-logic.

Quote:
Originally Posted by VP Electricity View Post
Use a good 4", they handle it just fine. What is your concern?
Well it's not that easy. 98% of the 4" woofers made are too deep to mount into my doors. The specs on those rainbows you suggested actually look really good. I have some focal components that really don't do it for me. They have a freq resp. at 120 Hz - 2.2 kHz those rainbows are 75-30,000 Hz. I'm not sure they will even fit at about 1/2 inch more depth then focal k2's.

My favorite components were cdt es-62's with silk tweets. I strongly doubt a shallow 4" driver can take the place of a quality 6.5" midrange. Just like kaigoss69 said, it is about pushing more air. Utilizing a 4" with an 8" does not equal a 6" no matter how you tweek it. Maybe I should fabricate some kick panels.

I will be adding an ms-8 eventually. Right now I am just struggling to find a setup I feel confident enough with to commit and move forward with my limited options.

I really have no desire for a subwoofer or a mono signal. In a lot of my music all a subwoofer picks up is a repetitive bass drum and becomes overwhelming and distracting. It sounds like shit to me so you can see why I am looking for an alternative. I don't want to drive around with 150w of bass drum constantly thumping up from under my ass.


A few Jehnert dealers in the UK told me they don't ship to the states. They make some really nice stuff. Do you know if they have any dealers in the US?
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      07-11-2010, 10:08 PM   #66
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Originally Posted by VP Electricity View Post
I think that with an MS-8, the SWS8 is probably a fine woofer.
I am so skeptical about earthquake. I always thought people only resorted to them because they are a perfect fit and not because they sound great. Do they sound better then they look? I have actually never heard them. The design does not look like something that has a tight, fast, and smooth response.
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