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      05-14-2010, 05:18 PM   #111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrBEEF View Post
Hey guys,

going to do this, this weekend, i got the frenetik rotors / and some performance pads.

When I used to do my breakes on the VW, I had to use a special took for the rear to disengage the parking brake(I think).

Does the E90 have the same thing?

From what I read, the front and rear are the same.

Is the parking brake done differently?

Thanx
There's no special tool needed for the rear brake.

The E90 rear disc brakes have a small drum inside for the parking brake shoes.

All you need to do is make sure the parking brake is set off before you remove the rear brakes.
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      05-30-2010, 08:35 PM   #112
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I was able to generate about 65ft-lbs of torque with my little chicken arms but still couldnt pry these funkers loose. How the heck did anyone remove any of the calliper bolts with hand tools on lift jack? Was anyone sucessful?
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      05-30-2010, 09:22 PM   #113
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jgalaxy View Post
I was able to generate about 65ft-lbs of torque with my little chicken arms but still couldnt pry these funkers loose. How the heck did anyone remove any of the calliper bolts with hand tools on lift jack? Was anyone sucessful?
Make sure you have the rachet set to the unscrew direction...many newbies makes this mistake because they're having the rachet end facing you rather than away...backwards perspective.

And are you sure you're unscrewing the allen head bolts that holds the caliper onto the bracket?

I hope you're not mistaking the bigger hex bolts that holds the caliper bracket to the wheel hub area.

All I had to do was bang on the rachet handle with my palm to get it to break free...if all else fails, I'd use a hammer on the rachet handle like I did on my other cars.
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      05-30-2010, 09:54 PM   #114
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 777ER View Post
Make sure you have the rachet set to the unscrew direction...many newbies makes this mistake because they're having the rachet end facing you rather than away...backwards perspective.

And are you sure you're unscrewing the allen head bolts that holds the caliper onto the bracket?

I hope you're not mistaking the bigger hex bolts that holds the caliper bracket to the wheel hub area.

All I had to do was bang on the rachet handle with my palm to get it to break free...if all else fails, I'd use a hammer on the rachet handle like I did on my other cars.
Allen bolts? I'm going after the 16mm bolts that loosen the calliper from wheel bracket to pull it off the rotor. One of us is confused. I dont recall Mr 5 talking about allen bolts.
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      05-30-2010, 10:08 PM   #115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jgalaxy View Post
Allen bolts? I'm going after the 16mm bolts that loosen the calliper from wheel bracket to pull it off the rotor. One of us is confused. I dont recall Mr 5 talking about allen bolts.
He didn't show them in his pics. He removed the caliper with the bracket as a whole unit where there is no need unless you're changing the rotors too.

See the black round cup thing on top of this pic?


there's a cap on it, if you pull it off, there's a 7mm allen bolt inside and it just removes the caliper from the bracket if you just only want to change the pads only.

BTW the bolts you were talking about trying to take off...they're on there torqued to 81 ft/lbs....you just need to use more muscle
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      05-30-2010, 10:29 PM   #116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jgalaxy View Post
I was able to generate about 65ft-lbs of torque with my little chicken arms but still couldnt pry these funkers loose. How the heck did anyone remove any of the calliper bolts with hand tools on lift jack? Was anyone sucessful?

Use Penetrating oil! Spray it on the bolts and let it sit for a min or so and they should come right off.

I had the same problem then decided was using to much muscle so i sprayed penetrating oil on them and came right off like nothing
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      05-30-2010, 10:56 PM   #117
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 777ER View Post
He didn't show them in his pics. He removed the caliper with the bracket as a whole unit where there is no need unless you're changing the rotors too.

See the black round cup thing on top of this pic?


there's a cap on it, if you pull it off, there's a 7mm allen bolt inside and it just removes the caliper from the bracket if you just only want to change the pads only.

BTW the bolts you were talking about trying to take off...they're on there torqued to 81 ft/lbs....you just need to use more muscle
I'll check out the hex bolt business. Kinda misleading DIY then if all you need to do is loosen a hex nut. Should be a huge time saver though.

No way I'm going to be able to generate 81ft-lbs torque of torque in that tight space using a jack stand. Up in the air on a lift I have half a chance with my weight behind it.

Thanks for the allen bolt tip.
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      05-30-2010, 11:26 PM   #118
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jgalaxy View Post
I'll check out the hex bolt business. Kinda misleading DIY then if all you need to do is loosen a hex nut. Should be a huge time saver though.

No way I'm going to be able to generate 81ft-lbs torque of torque in that tight space using a jack stand. Up in the air on a lift I have half a chance with my weight behind it.

Thanks for the allen bolt tip.
The allen bolts only needs 22 ft/lbs of torque.

If you do need to change the rotor in the future, remove the same bolts you were trying to take off before.

What I did was turn the steering wheel full right if I'm removing the driver's side caliper brakcet, or turn the steering wheel full left for the passgener's side caliper bracket...this way I can use a 3ft long breaker bar to get them loose and still have room for my torque wrench that's 2 ft long to torque it down.
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      05-31-2010, 09:09 AM   #119
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 777ER View Post
The allen bolts only needs 22 ft/lbs of torque.

If you do need to change the rotor in the future, remove the same bolts you were trying to take off before.

What I did was turn the steering wheel full right if I'm removing the driver's side caliper brakcet, or turn the steering wheel full left for the passgener's side caliper bracket...this way I can use a 3ft long breaker bar to get them loose and still have room for my torque wrench that's 2 ft long to torque it down.
Awesome. Now I see what you are talking about. For anyone else that wants more details, here is a M3 E9X DIY that explains a similar procedure as well http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthr...highlight=pads.

Cheers.
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      06-18-2010, 05:12 PM   #120
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Hi,
I've just replaced front and back pads. A week before doing it dealer replaced front pads and rotors and brake pedal became firm again with very little travel before getting noticeable brake force (38k miles).
After I did swap pads, brakes work fine, but there is a noticeable pedal travel. how can I fix it?

As far as I can tell, pads have same dimensions and same thickness left. I also assume there should be no extra air in brake lines, since brakes were firm after the dealer's swap.

PS. go for allen bolts under that black plastic/rubber cap

PPS. if I put clip back, after I bring the pads together by pressing brake pedal (and do it for all 4 wheels), there is less extra travel remaining... anyone can chime in on the best method to eliminate it? Extra travel = less than 1 inch, does not exist if I pump the brakes.

PPPS. Figured out the issue: my discs were replaced recently at the dealership and the allen bolts that hold them were torqued above 90. So they were slightly misalligned after installation and it caused both vibration under hard braking and extra pedal travel(when car is moving), since they could not adjust under pressure.

Last edited by Sky Keeper; 06-30-2010 at 01:06 PM.
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      08-21-2010, 08:53 PM   #121
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Tips for a more efficient Brake & Rotor install

Rotors and Brakes install tips from an E90 dude!

There are a few things to consider while completing this task. Depending on your car, how long you have owned it, and your tire dust accumulation, corrosion might have built up around lugs and rotor connection to the bearing hub. This corrosion will make stubborn work out of removing the tires and rotors.

Don't be afraid to use some "muscle" on these things!



First- the tires: Once you have it on jacks, with the lugs out...give the tire a few hard heel kicks. This will make the tire fall right off. 



Second- the Caliper bolts: It took me a while to crack these with an impact wrench even after spraying liquid wrench and hanging on them with the standard wrench for a couple of hours. These bolts had to either be installed by machine or another ye-haw with an impact wrench. 



Third- the Rotors: 
Take the setscrew out and bring out the big guns. Grab your sledgehammer and give a hard whack in this order 3:00,9:00, 6:00, 12:00.This may be the reason BMW specs out new rotors on this change. It will loosen and you need to take some brake cleaner and wire brush to what remains. Spray clean and put on anti-seize fluid all around the bearing. 



Fourth- Sensor install: Keep in mind that the sensor connection is underneath the under-lining of the wheel well. There are 6 bolts to take off in order to have enough room to disconnect old one and connect the new one. You must install this or your warning lights will continue to trip.



The last tip - you may not want to overlook this: Brake Pad install:
The springs on the back of two brake pads are pliable. The EBC Low Dust pads, I purchased for my E90, one of them (1 of 2 within each set) had a spring on the back which was sprawled out so far it would not go into the brake piston. So I bent the bottom one just enough to change the angle slightly, used a vice grip to compress the top springs, and it fit right in. Once it was in there, I then used a flat head screwdriver to bend the spring back to its original position.

Installed:

2x Centric Rotors - Rear

4x EBC Red Stuff low dust pads

Realistic time: 3 hours - Depending on your tools and help... I would estimate at least 40 minutes per side

Last edited by JBimmer-3; 08-21-2010 at 09:06 PM.
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      08-22-2010, 09:21 AM   #122
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Thanks for the DIY writeup! I did my rear pads yesterday, and it was pretty straightforward.

I do have one question though. I replaced the sensor, and tried to reset the on board service indicator, but it's still at 2500 miles. The reset doesn't seem to process. Is there something I'm missing, or do I need the dealer to do it? I have an 06 325xi.
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      08-22-2010, 10:57 AM   #123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alarbus View Post
Thanks for the DIY writeup! I did my rear pads yesterday, and it was pretty straightforward.

I do have one question though. I replaced the sensor, and tried to reset the on board service indicator, but it's still at 2500 miles. The reset doesn't seem to process. Is there something I'm missing, or do I need the dealer to do it? I have an 06 325xi.
does the BRAKE light still stay illuminated or is it just the miles left that's staying the same? If so then try the the onboard reset again, or could try unplugging the sensor from the connection point and see if that does anything
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      08-22-2010, 12:52 PM   #124
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Just the miles left, I did the change before it actually wore through the original sensor and triggered the brake light.

Hm. I wonder if I can get behind that panel without taking off the wheel.
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      08-22-2010, 02:57 PM   #125
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Follow the Reset instructions

BKV122- I replaced my rear pads, Rotors, and sensor wire last Thursday. Then followed the service reset instructions:

http://bit.ly/a5UDup

The Mileage indicator immediately went to 60,000. It would be very hard if not impossible to access the sensor connection without removing the wheel.
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      08-22-2010, 07:46 PM   #126
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Aha, the important bit is that the reset only works if you enter the service menu when the engine is NOT running. I'm all set!
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      08-30-2010, 02:09 PM   #127
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Great write up, thanks!
Just repeating this- You must replace the sensor otherwise you cant reset the service indicator even if the sensor is fine.

Mark
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      09-02-2010, 04:59 PM   #128
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JBimmer-3 View Post

Fourth- Sensor install: Keep in mind that the sensor connection is underneath the under-lining of the wheel well. There are 6 bolts to take off in order to have enough room to disconnect old one and connect the new one. You must install this or your warning lights will continue to trip.


good info. To make things a bit easier, removing just 4 bolts off the under-lining is enough to get to the sensor connection point, no need to remove the whole thing. 3 bolts are in the outer area and one in the upper middle.
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      09-07-2010, 11:56 PM   #129
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great diy

here's two videos that shows you how to do the entire brake.



[u2b]MsBM_kEFE-A&feature=related[/u2b]
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Last edited by ska///235i; 09-08-2010 at 10:36 PM.
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      09-09-2010, 10:53 PM   #130
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Just finished my rears. Simple

My only feedback is to grease your sliding pins. I was metal-to-metal on one side cause some bmw tech was too lazy to do this. Neither the clip or sensor picked up on this.
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      10-05-2010, 08:14 PM   #131
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Impact on additional fancy brake features

Mr5 and others,

Thanks for this fantastic DIY thread. I am a newbie to this site as well as DIYs in general. I do not have much experience doing any work on the car on my own.
Inspired by this thread, I am planning to change my rear pads and disc this coming weekend.

I have a stock car with 57,000 miles of normal highway and city (sometime spirited) driving. i do not track my car.

I have ordered Coolcarbon pads from Bavauto and Zimmermann disks with Zi coating from AutohausAZ. I wanted to find out if these parts are a good choice. All I want is a near OEM performance from the parts with minimal brakedust.

Also, I wonder if there is any chance of me screwing up the advanced brake functions on a BMW such as Brake drying, Brake fade compensation, Brake pre-tensioning and Hill-start assistant when I change the pads and rotors.

Again, appreciate all your contribution to this site and this particular DIY. It is inspiring and very useful.

Thank you.
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      10-06-2010, 04:51 PM   #132
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well done!
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