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      09-30-2010, 08:38 AM   #23
Andy M
 
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So I've decided to go with Krown. After asking around, it seems that Krown is the best out there for this. Both in terms of the technicians (if I don't want drilling, they won't drill) and also in terms of their formulation.

And yes this is for the undercarriage. For the body, as long as the paint is intact, it will never rust.

I called some friends who work at dealerships and they recommend rust proofing the vehicle since I'm now in Ontario. There's not really a need in Alberta or BC but in Ontario and Quebec where they use a lot of salt on the roads, it's an issue (salt water can get into the gaps in the undercarriage and cause problems).

My friends said that one of those "one-time" rust proofing deals from dealerships are scams. Doing it just one time will not help. Maybe that's what BMW is referring to. Remember the BMW manual was not written to be region-specific.

Regardless, I am likely going to keep the car longer than 12 years (thinking of going the full Dinan route) so rust-proofing the undercarriage is important for me.

And yes, the car is almost 3 years old but I still have people saying it looks and feels like a new car. (my leather seats are still in perfect condition )
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      09-30-2010, 08:56 AM   #24
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Thats good to know that you can ask them not to drill holes, that was one of my concerns if I will be doing it.

Thats the thing I was wondering too, the 12 yrs was for places/countries where they do not use salt. What makes it worst is the you need to have a "rust hole" in the car before they will fix/replace it. I'd like to keep my car for a long time too I am not sure how long will the turbo last, before it will start having some problems.
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      09-30-2010, 08:56 AM   #25
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Quote:
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dont believe the feul/brake lines are metal so they wont rust.
Interesting. I got more time to do research on this and think about it anyway.

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Originally Posted by Andy M View Post
So I've decided to go with Krown. After asking around, it seems that Krown is the best out there for this. Both in terms of the technicians (if I don't want drilling, they won't drill) and also in terms of their formulation.

And yes this is for the undercarriage. For the body, as long as the paint is intact, it will never rust.

I called some friends who work at dealerships and they recommend rust proofing the vehicle since I'm now in Ontario. There's not really a need in Alberta or BC but in Ontario and Quebec where they use a lot of salt on the roads, it's an issue (salt water can get into the gaps in the undercarriage and cause problems).

My friends said that one of those "one-time" rust proofing deals from dealerships are scams. Doing it just one time will not help. Maybe that's what BMW is referring to. Remember the BMW manual was not written to be region-specific.

Regardless, I am likely going to keep the car longer than 12 years (thinking of going the full Dinan route) so rust-proofing the undercarriage is important for me.

And yes, the car is almost 3 years old but I still have people saying it looks and feels like a new car. (my leather seats are still in perfect condition )
I'm leaning towards going the same route. Krown w/ no drilling. I still have some time to do more research. I may also wait until Spring which according to some is the best time to do it.

FWIW, there is also a company called MotorWorx that does a no drilling treatment and is having a group buy on RedFlagDeals.
http://forums.redflagdeals.com/2010-...people-789514/
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      09-30-2010, 09:34 AM   #26
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DoctorT, I called Krown and my quote was $119.99 + HST (around $135). I think going with Krown which has a good reputation with the higher end cars and who can provide a no-drill option (I was told by someone he went to Rust Check, told them not to drill and they still did it anyway) is worth the extra cost.

As an aside, I'm thinking of going with the BMW Performance air intake in addition to the Dinan exhaust system. After researching a lot with the HPFP and of the times I've had HPFP problems (long drives in hot weather), it seems to be overheating turbos. The BMW turbos run insanely hot and I think cooling it down will definitely help.
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      09-30-2010, 09:38 AM   #27
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I didn't know that there is a BMW Performance intake for the 335s.

My car is still about 3 months old so, I will start maybe next year for rust proofing but I want to keep my self informed about this stuff.

Last edited by BRAISKI; 09-30-2010 at 09:46 AM.
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      09-30-2010, 09:47 AM   #28
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Quote:
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DoctorT, I called Krown and my quote was $119.99 + HST (around $135). I think going with Krown which has a good reputation with the higher end cars and who can provide a no-drill option (I was told by someone he went to Rust Check, told them not to drill and they still did it anyway) is worth the extra cost.
Damn, I'd be pissed if they drilled my car after giving instructions not to. There was also a study done by the Canadian Army that ranked the Krown formula quite good at preventing corrosion on vehicles. (Although they apply the oil themselves). What's your thoughts on getting it done now vs spring time?

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As an aside, I'm thinking of going with the BMW Performance air intake in addition to the Dinan exhaust system. After researching a lot with the HPFP and of the times I've had HPFP problems (long drives in hot weather), it seems to be overheating turbos. The BMW turbos run insanely hot and I think cooling it down will definitely help.
Ok, I read that the BMW Performance Exhaust actually reduced power based on 135 before/after dyno tests. I'll check out the Dinan exhaust. Thanks for the update. Interesting point on the overheating turbos. The performance air intake may cool them down a bit?
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      09-30-2010, 07:05 PM   #29
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Damn, I'd be pissed if they drilled my car after giving instructions not to. There was also a study done by the Canadian Army that ranked the Krown formula quite good at preventing corrosion on vehicles. (Although they apply the oil themselves). What's your thoughts on getting it done now vs spring time?
I read that about the Army using Krown too. Krown seems to be the best formulation out there.

And I would be pissed too if I told them no drilling and they still did it. If I say "no drilling" I want them to detail for me the procedure in terms of what they will do if they don't drill. Then I want to watch them do it if possible.

I would think getting it done before the winter is better. It's really like an oil sealant. It's not meant to be permanent so getting it done now will protect the underside from the salt water getting in. In the spring, you'd just give it a good pressure wash and the oil will be washed off along with the salt. (or at least that's what others have told me - including a coworker who used to be a mechanic)


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Ok, I read that the BMW Performance Exhaust actually reduced power based on 135 before/after dyno tests. I'll check out the Dinan exhaust. Thanks for the update. Interesting point on the overheating turbos. The performance air intake may cool them down a bit?
Sorry I meant the Dinan Performance Intake. It will increase performance by about 14 HP for a Dinan Stage 3 software. I think the high cap oil cooler will also help with the HPFP's. Luckily mine has one but some 335's are now shipping without them.

I'm seriously considering the Dinan route since looking at what they have, it's quite reasonable.
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      10-01-2010, 10:28 AM   #30
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I read that about the Army using Krown too. Krown seems to be the best formulation out there.

And I would be pissed too if I told them no drilling and they still did it. If I say "no drilling" I want them to detail for me the procedure in terms of what they will do if they don't drill. Then I want to watch them do it if possible.

I would think getting it done before the winter is better. It's really like an oil sealant. It's not meant to be permanent so getting it done now will protect the underside from the salt water getting in. In the spring, you'd just give it a good pressure wash and the oil will be washed off along with the salt. (or at least that's what others have told me - including a coworker who used to be a mechanic)
In a recent turn of events, I may have free underground parking for work. I'm not sure if it's heated, but I'd rather not take a chance and will likely get mine done before winter as well. So after oil spray, no underbody wash until Spring?

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Sorry I meant the Dinan Performance Intake. It will increase performance by about 14 HP for a Dinan Stage 3 software. I think the high cap oil cooler will also help with the HPFP's. Luckily mine has one but some 335's are now shipping without them.

I'm seriously considering the Dinan route since looking at what they have, it's quite reasonable.
Sounds good. Please update how it goes. I thought all new 335 were shipping w/ oil coolers - no?
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      10-01-2010, 01:59 PM   #31
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Well, I'm pretty sure you can wash in the winter, I think just not right after the Krown treatment. It's supposed to penetrate into the tight spots and cracks and prevents salt water from sitting in those cracks. Surface rust is something that's preventable by washing but when it comes to areas of stagnant water, it's pretty hard to wash out (and that's where rust forms usually). It's like when you put skate guards on your blades after a game and you don't wipe the blades off first (or they don't dry completely), you'll get a lot of rust quickly but if you let them air dry before putting them away, you won't get that rust.

And I was told that not all 335's come with oil coolers? Could be the older models? At least I know I have one on my car (had Budds look it up using my VIN).
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      10-03-2010, 09:31 PM   #32
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Cool. Any luck w/ 3M? You mentioned your leather still looks brand new, may I ask how you maintain it?
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      10-03-2010, 09:41 PM   #33
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Cool. Any luck w/ 3M? You mentioned your leather still looks brand new, may I ask how you maintain it?
Haven't had a chance to look for the 3M yet.

For my leather, I use Poorboy's Leather Stuff once a month. Once in a while, I'll rub it in the night before and then wipe it off the next day. Poorboy's Leather Stuff is absolutely awesome. Probably the best leather detailing product I've ever used. I'm going to use it for pretty much anything leather. (sofas, shoes, etc)
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      10-03-2010, 10:02 PM   #34
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Haven't had a chance to look for the 3M yet.
I suggest trying Venture Shield from Advanced Mobile Group...

Here is my car done full front end...

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=430224
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      10-04-2010, 08:19 PM   #35
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Haven't had a chance to look for the 3M yet.

For my leather, I use Poorboy's Leather Stuff once a month. Once in a while, I'll rub it in the night before and then wipe it off the next day. Poorboy's Leather Stuff is absolutely awesome. Probably the best leather detailing product I've ever used. I'm going to use it for pretty much anything leather. (sofas, shoes, etc)
Thanks for sharing, I'll definitely check it out.
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      10-17-2010, 04:06 PM   #36
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I used Chipguard for 3m tape...ask for Mark Legere to do it personally...been doing it longest. I had my Infiniti done twice, by him the second to do it right. If you have a dark colour car it ripples and bubbles are more noticeable.
PS- Don't pay for it at the dealership btw....these guys do it for Downtown BMW themselves and charge half as much if you call and deal directly. I think it was $200-250 hood and fenders.
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      10-25-2010, 01:46 AM   #37
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Just an update, I got my Krown done. They recommended me to do it in August because it's warmer and the oil is more viscous (which makes sense). Luckily this weekend was quite warm so it wasn't that bad to do.

Got it done at the Krown dealership at 33 Parliament St. I told them no holes to be drilled so they just sprayed the bottom. The holes are for inside the doors and they just fill the inside of the doors with oil.

Logically though, I wouldn't worry too much about this part because BMW's paint will be enough rust protection and I won't get exposed metal through rock chips in this area (and if I'm really paranoid I'll just flush this part with some water though the drainage holes using a supersoaker or something).

I was advised not to wash the underside of the car at all from now on and next year, they'll apply a foam which will wash off the oil and all the salt. Apparently Krown is supposed to be put on once a year. I'm thinking I'll wash the underside when I change back to summer tires because it's better than the oil trapping moisture which in my opinion is actually worse for corrosion.
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      10-25-2010, 08:27 AM   #38
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Just an update, I got my Krown done. They recommended me to do it in August because it's warmer and the oil is more viscous (which makes sense). Luckily this weekend was quite warm so it wasn't that bad to do.

Got it done at the Krown dealership at 33 Parliament St. I told them no holes to be drilled so they just sprayed the bottom. The holes are for inside the doors and they just fill the inside of the doors with oil.

Logically though, I wouldn't worry too much about this part because BMW's paint will be enough rust protection and I won't get exposed metal through rock chips in this area (and if I'm really paranoid I'll just flush this part with some water though the drainage holes using a supersoaker or something).

I was advised not to wash the underside of the car at all from now on and next year, they'll apply a foam which will wash off the oil and all the salt. Apparently Krown is supposed to be put on once a year. I'm thinking I'll wash the underside when I change back to summer tires because it's better than the oil trapping moisture which in my opinion is actually worse for corrosion.
I was really thinking of doing mine this year but I have decided to do it next year. I will see what I can do this year such as how many times I will wash the car especially the under carriage.

I called my local Krown and ask if they will still do the rust proofing without boring holes, they said they still will but they still suggest to put some holes to access certain areas.

So no need to go to a car wash to get your under carriage wash then... So next year when you go back for another rust proofing they will wash the salt with foam? Or you will go after winter?
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      10-25-2010, 11:17 AM   #39
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I was really thinking of doing mine this year but I have decided to do it next year. I will see what I can do this year such as how many times I will wash the car especially the under carriage.

I called my local Krown and ask if they will still do the rust proofing without boring holes, they said they still will but they still suggest to put some holes to access certain areas.

So no need to go to a car wash to get your under carriage wash then... So next year when you go back for another rust proofing they will wash the salt with foam? Or you will go after winter?

When they said "access some areas" I asked them to clarify. It's the inside of the doors. And in my experience with rust, once you put a hole in metal, it'll be the first place to rust - not only do you lose the coating protection, it creates a stress point which actually make it easier to rust.

And I won't wash my under carriage until the spring. I just don't want any stagnant water or dirt that's trapped under the Krown coating now to stay there for too long. I'll have them wash the salt off with foam again once I get my yearly application of Krown in August. There won't be any way that I'll get it all off washing it on my own anyway.
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      10-25-2010, 11:39 AM   #40
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Thanks for the update. May I ask how much it cost?
Edit: NVM, saw the earlier quote

Last edited by Doctor T; 10-26-2010 at 03:31 PM.
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      10-25-2010, 02:31 PM   #41
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Did not know about the warrenty, will keep that in mind, thanks
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      10-30-2010, 12:31 PM   #42
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bmw will fix it at their cost..thats what the rust warranty is for
My understand with rust is...that there has to be a hole...has to be perforated, not just rusted.

so beware.
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      10-31-2010, 06:32 PM   #43
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I suggest trying Venture Shield from Advanced Mobile Group...

Here is my car done full front end...

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=430224
Another vote for Marco @ Advanced Mobile Group, he's a real perfectionist.

I had another company initially do my F-150 for me because Marco was so busy and I didn't want to wait. The other company did a really poor job for a few bucks cheaper than Marco charges. I was so unhappy with it I had it removed. There was clouding in the film, scar-like blemishes, bubbles and areas where the film had a look like running paint. There were also some lift lines on the surface of the film in a couple of different spots. Once the film was removed I could see cut lines where the installer cut the film while it was on my truck. I was so mad.

I had Kevin from *********** minimize the cut lines for me and that required wet sanding (very scary to watch this getting done) & polishing. Marco then redid the job properly and it looked like night and day from the original job, plus I had far better coverage on my hood and fenders than the original job.

So if I could give you any advice, don't just get anyone to do a job like this just to save a few bucks because in the end you'll be unhappy with the end result & at worst you could end up with damage to your vehicle.
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      10-31-2010, 09:38 PM   #44
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Another vote for Marco @ Advanced Mobile Group, he's a real perfectionist.

I had another company initially do my F-150 for me because Marco was so busy and I didn't want to wait. The other company did a really poor job for a few bucks cheaper than Marco charges. I was so unhappy with it I had it removed. There was clouding in the film, scar-like blemishes, bubbles and areas where the film had a look like running paint. There were also some lift lines on the surface of the film in a couple of different spots. Once the film was removed I could see cut lines where the installer cut the film while it was on my truck. I was so mad.

I had Kevin from *********** minimize the cut lines for me and that required wet sanding (very scary to watch this getting done) & polishing. Marco then redid the job properly and it looked like night and day from the original job, plus I had far better coverage on my hood and fenders than the original job.

So if I could give you any advice, don't just get anyone to do a job like this just to save a few bucks because in the end you'll be unhappy with the end result & at worst you could end up with damage to your vehicle.

Thanks! I'm thinking of trying to do a group buy. So far it's just me and Doctor T but if anyone else is interested let us know. (and Marco is one of those that we're looking at at the moment...just waiting for a few other quotes from some other guys highly recommended on E90Post but we'll get them Monday probably).
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