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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > BMW E90/E92/E93 3-series General Forums > General E90 Sedan / E91 Wagon / E92 Coupe / E93 Cabrio > Door Locks - Anyone had / have this problem?



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      08-09-2010, 07:55 PM   #67
dwykstra
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The 20a fuse worked for me.
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      08-11-2010, 01:05 PM   #68
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kinda worked for me...

I had the same problem on my '07 328i, and sure enough, fuse 57 was blown. So, I replaced it, and it worked fine....for a day. I dug a little harder and found the 20amp fuse replacement recommendation and did that. With the 20amp fuse, I get a loud clicking from my right rear actuator and it doesn't work. I changed back to the 15amp fuse, and it works fine.

I did not disconnect the battery at any point. What is the rationale behind that?
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      08-11-2010, 10:14 PM   #69
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Same thing just happened to my 328i this evening. I'm glad to know its most likely just the fuse...
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      08-16-2010, 08:51 PM   #70
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Add another instance of this to the party. I changed the 15A fuse with a 20A but nothing changed...

Then I thought to myself that the central locking system was probably thrown out of sync when the issue happened, so I tried to 'reset' the system. First I unlocked everything (doors manually, trunk and gas lid). I then closed the trunk and gas cap, manually locked all the doors, got in the car, put the key in the ignition and pushed the start button to turn the electronics on (did not start the car). I then pushed the lock button on the dash a couple of times, and bingo! The locks started cycling normally.

I'm not sure this will be a long term fix (ie, might well be the actuators), but this might be helpful info for those who change the fuse and dont see an immediate improvement.
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      08-26-2010, 11:56 PM   #71
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Damn, this shit just happened to me today. I went to lock my doors and all I heard was a very loud buzzing noise and then the locks wouldn't work of course. Checked the fuses and sure enough, 57 was blown. I replaced it with a 15a then a 20a - - neither worked. Going in for service on Saturday. I hope it is covered under warranty!
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      08-27-2010, 11:30 AM   #72
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this happened to mine last week and dealer replaced the actuator under warranty.
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      08-27-2010, 01:07 PM   #73
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I just had this problem with my passenger side front door. I could not lock it with the central control lock or with my key fob.

Thanks to all the posts by other members i made the dealership aware that I already knew about the door actuator problems and the blown fuses. I did not want for them to merely replace the fuses and have this happen again next week.

They replaced both front door actuators and the fuses, all was covered by my certified used warranty
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      09-11-2010, 11:06 PM   #74
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Throw my hat into the ring on this issue.

Seems to be getting as big as High Pressure Fuel Pump.

For those of us out of warranty lets hope NHTSA can do something about this.
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      09-12-2010, 09:51 PM   #75
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Ditto. Very annoying, no opening of any doors from inside or out other than the manual key in the drivers door. Can't see how this isn't a safety issue. Replaced the fuse with a 20a, we'll see how long it lasts.
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      09-14-2010, 07:50 PM   #76
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no joy in NORFOLK

I replaced my 15 amp with a 20 amp fuse. The central locks worked except for the drivers door. Then the 20 amp blew so...I am going to see if I can hit the actuator with electrical contact cleaning solution. If that fails it looks like i am shopping for a new set of actuators.



I am in the Norfolk VA area if anyone can recommend a good independent shop?

Edit:
Repaired at Checkered Flag, 600 bucks out the door & they gave me a complemtary loaner for 2 days!
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      09-14-2010, 10:22 PM   #77
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will dealership go into cpu to fix this problem? or is it only fuse box and door actuators?
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      09-16-2010, 10:37 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3seriesWagon View Post
will dealership go into cpu to fix this problem? or is it only fuse box and door actuators?
i had this problem and took it to the dealer. all they told me was that they would have to open up the car which would cost 171 dollars and that didn't include costs of repair. i switched out the fuses from 15a to 20a and everything worked fine. i would try switching out the fuses before taking it to the dealer unless your under warranty
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      09-20-2010, 10:50 AM   #79
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post to complaints NHTSA

go to: http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/

and fill in the online form. They are still trying to gather statistics. hopefully they will get BMW to repair the source of the problems and not hit the consumer for their mistakes.

This is a HUGE safety issue, do your part to help!!!

here's the order of what happened to me:
1. 15A fuse blew and i got locked in car
2. replaced fuse with another 15A fuse and everything worked fine for a couple months
3. driver actuator starter acting up intermitingly, then stopped working completely after a month
4. replaced driver actuator only, not both like the service bulletin says (will post DIY soon, i keep promising). btw, the new one is from a different supplier, so there is a new version being sold now. I get these for about $175, so let me know if you need one. i may be able to help.
5. 6-months later the 15A fuse blew again, could not unlock ANY door except driver with the manual key, passenger had to crawl in and out through drivers side (what a joke! on a $40k car?!?!)
6. replaced 15A fuse with 20A fuse, everything seams OK for now....

AND THE BMW door lock and window nightmares continue. They need to hire some japs to do their electrical systems, they just can't get it right.
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      09-20-2010, 11:15 AM   #80
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Same thing happened to me yesterday, wasn't sure if it was the heat wave we had in AZ yesterday. Seem that the drivers side door is failing, it will lock but not unlock except with the key. Initially even using the inside handle failed and I had to climb out the passenger side. This is working again though. I'm going to look to see if there is a fuse issue first.
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      09-29-2010, 07:38 PM   #81
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Adding to the chorus

So, this happened to me tonight as well. None of the doors will unlock with the exception of the rear passenger door. The fob does not work; the central locking system will not work, nor will the "double pull" on the door handle work. They are all locked. I can manually unlock the driver's side door. The trunk release currently works. I'll try the fuse solution tomorrow. I am about 6k out of warranty.
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      09-30-2010, 01:15 AM   #82
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this happened to me before too. nothing worked not even the actual key inside the fob. only way i could get in was through the window i took it to the dealership right away and the problem wasnt the fuse but the cable. Took them 2 days to fix the problem and i enjoyed the 2010 335xi those 2 days.
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      09-30-2010, 10:13 PM   #83
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This happened to my 07 328i within a week of purchasing the car (from a Ford dealer). I took it to BMW and they replaced the fuse and fixed the problem before I even gave them my name!
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      10-15-2010, 01:40 PM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by green4003 View Post
This happened to my 07 328i within a week of purchasing the car (from a Ford dealer). I took it to BMW and they replaced the fuse and fixed the problem before I even gave them my name!
Update: about a week ago, the same thing happened. Took it back to the dealer and they replaced 2 front and 1 rear door lock actuator. Took the car home and now one of the rear doors (where they replaced the actuator) doesn't unlock with the keyfob or dashboard button (it does unlock manually). Car will be going back into the dealer.
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      10-15-2010, 01:41 PM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by green4003 View Post
This happened to my 07 328i within a week of purchasing the car (from a Ford dealer). I took it to BMW and they replaced the fuse and fixed the problem before I even gave them my name!
Quote:
Originally Posted by green4003 View Post
Update: about a week ago, the same thing happened. Took it back to the dealer and they replaced 2 front and 1 rear door lock actuator. Took the car home and now one of the rear doors (where they replaced the actuator) doesn't unlock with the keyfob or dashboard button (it does unlock manually). Car will be going back into the dealer.
I should have added, they said the computer showed failures on 3 of the 4 actuators. Isn't this a pretty good indication that the 4th one will also fail in future? They won't replace that one until it fails though.
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      10-19-2010, 09:01 PM   #86
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Originally Posted by green4003 View Post
I should have added, they said the computer showed failures on 3 of the 4 actuators. Isn't this a pretty good indication that the 4th one will also fail in future? They won't replace that one until it fails though.
OK - took the car back in to BMW of Fairfax. They replaced both rear actuators. All locks working great. Now the puddle lights don't work on one of the rear doors! Looks like I'll be going back for a third time - I'm trying to be patient.
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      11-21-2010, 07:29 PM   #87
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Well I have my second problem with my 07 335i that I bought last week. Last night my FOB does not unlock any of the doors, so I used the key to get in. Today the central control in the car doesnt work and neither does the handle to unlock the passenger side door. Switched the #57 fuse to a 15a and then to a 20a with nothing working after te switch. Already had a an appt set for tomorrow since my seat heater isnt working either.

Only have 3 weeks of warranty left, so I hope it will all be fixed before I gotta start paying for itmyself.
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      11-21-2010, 07:51 PM   #88
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Had the same thing happen on my 335i at about the same time frame (48k or something). They replaced the fuse first, then the actuator once it happened again.


They tech knew about it right away, seems like a common problem on the e9x platform...

VERY annoying, and very debilitating. I couldnt even ride with a passanger without them crawling through the drivers side door.
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