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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > DIY Guides > DIY - E92 Oil Change



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      03-14-2007, 10:50 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by texasturner View Post
Do the old o-rings come off easily or do you have to pry them off with screwdriver?
Just use a small screwdriver or anything small flat to pick it out. Easy.
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      03-14-2007, 10:55 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by pierre_wei View Post
Its Only 1K....but i can't wait to get my first oil change..there are some pictures during Oil Change...everything worked out very well ,BUT I DIDN'T SEE ANY SILVER METAL WASHER ON DRAIN BOLT??...or it just didn't have it with it??
Did my oil change about a month ago. My washer was aluminum looking and it was stuck to the oil pan. Nice write up and pix dude.
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      03-14-2007, 11:43 AM   #25
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Anyone find a cheap place to buy BMW oil/filters in bulk online?
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      03-14-2007, 02:33 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by baltik View Post
Anyone find a cheap place to buy BMW oil/filters in bulk online?
This place has the '07 E9X filters for $12.48 per filter.

Or, $109.62 for 10 filters.

Orders over $50 get free shipping.

http://www.germanfilters.com/328i-sp...0e7fbec4c29d72.

The BMW dealership near my home charged me $10.40 per filter.
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      03-30-2007, 05:14 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by beh-em-veh-808 View Post
6) CAUTION: Engine oil will be very hot!!!! I ran the car a few miles till it got to full operating temp. This is so that any/all bits and pieces in the oil will be kicked up and circulated so that it will drain out. And, with higher temperature, the oil will be less viscous so more will drain out. Less stuck on engine parts.
thats very important as i havent seen anyone else note that the engine needs to be at full temp before the oil is changed
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      03-30-2007, 06:09 PM   #28
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Good catch. I'll put that note in my ruck as a reminder when I change mine.
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      04-02-2007, 04:06 PM   #29
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just did mine today pretty early @ 1500 miles, which im sure was way overkill

havent seen any analyisis of the n54s oil yet? i took a sample, has anyone posted an analysis on the n54 yet? i just saw a bunch of 330s

ill send it in if no one chimes in, hopefully the vitamin bottle a stored it in was clean enough lol
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      04-02-2007, 04:46 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teknochild View Post
thats very important as i havent seen anyone else note that the engine needs to be at full temp before the oil is changed
uh-oh, i did it with the engine cold, is that really bad?
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      04-02-2007, 04:56 PM   #31
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uh-oh, i did it with the engine cold, is that really bad?
not really. most of the crap you want to get out ends up in tha pan, which is where you drain from

its just better @ temp because some crap will be stuck to your engine and such when its cold, and at temp it will be floating in the oil

no dipstick sucks, i was really uncomfortable restarting the engine and then driving waiting to make sure i put enough oil in (i put in 7 bottles, but you never know maybe you forgot one, or more somehow)
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      04-02-2007, 05:44 PM   #32
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7 bottles, Tek?

Thought someone showed an image of the gauge at "MAX" with 6.5 quarts... what's your electro-gizmo-gauge showing?
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      04-02-2007, 05:53 PM   #33
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no that person probably wanted their oil to read in the middle of min and max (1 quart between them) the engines capacity is 7 quarts, mines right at max
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      04-02-2007, 06:34 PM   #34
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Actually, it was the OP who said he put in 6.5 quarts, and his picture shows it at the max hash mark.

Oh well... I just don't want to "overfill".
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      04-02-2007, 09:20 PM   #35
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i put 6.5 exactly and it was about 3/4 of the way to the MAX so 7 sounds about right.
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      04-04-2007, 02:00 AM   #36
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In the Reference section of the manual under Capacities, it says 6.9 quarts, so 7 full quarts should be fine...

0.1 quart is 6.4 tablespoons of oil, so that's how much over the spec you are putting in with 7.0 quarts.

Don't know where anyone got the idea that it was 6.5qts. The manual says 6.9qts/6.5liters, so maybe they got mixed up.
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      04-04-2007, 02:12 AM   #37
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whats important is that crap really does shoot out of there
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      04-04-2007, 09:06 AM   #38
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Nice write-up guys, thanks
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      04-04-2007, 08:11 PM   #39
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I would like to add one thing if you may allow...

This really doesnt matter either way you do it, but I usually break the oil filter loose first and pull it up alittle and prop it up by sticking a screwdriver or something on the side of to hold the oil filter suspended inside its housing. When you drain the oil, this allows the oil sitting in the oil filter housing to go back into the pan and come out.

We do it the opposite way with the M3s (the way you have it shown...do the oil filter last), because the M3 motors take 7.5 quarts, but we are only given 7. BMW rules wont bill out that last 1/2 quart (its a PITA in their book), so we pull the filter last....so whatever oil left in that drains into the pan when full, giving a closer reading if not 'full'. Its stupid the way BMW acts on that, but its only less than 1/2 quart that is still old. Not going to hurt the engine in any way.

Other than that, well said
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      04-07-2007, 03:52 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lkraven View Post
Actually, it was the OP who said he put in 6.5 quarts, and his picture shows it at the max hash mark.

Oh well... I just don't want to "overfill".
Could be that since the OP had his front wheels on ramps....and the car was not level...that he did not get all of the old oil out. Hence he needed 6.5 qt. vs. the standard 6.9 qt.
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      04-07-2007, 04:35 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rover View Post
Could be that since the OP had his front wheels on ramps....and the car was not level...that he did not get all of the old oil out. Hence he needed 6.5 qt. vs. the standard 6.9 qt.
no, nothing to do with it
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      04-07-2007, 08:23 PM   #42
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Well Looks like I have to go downstairs and add the last .5 quarts to the car. I thought it was 6.5, but no big deal.

Anyone else swipe the turkey baster outta their kitchen to get those last few drops of cruddy oil out of the filter housing?

So I changed the today at 250 miles roughly. Call me old school, but I'll tell you the oil coming out seemed pretty damn dirty for only 250 miles. All told only took about 45 minutes I guess, taking my time. I spent a little extra time staring at the front suspension arms, very nice...

Thanks for the good tips here, and the write up to go with the pictures made it much easier.

cheers
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      04-07-2007, 08:31 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Revlis View Post
Well Looks like I have to go downstairs and add the last .5 quarts to the car. I thought it was 6.5, but no big deal.

Anyone else swipe the turkey baster outta their kitchen to get those last few drops of cruddy oil out of the filter housing?

So I changed the today at 250 miles roughly. Call me old school, but I'll tell you the oil coming out seemed pretty damn dirty for only 250 miles. All told only took about 45 minutes I guess, taking my time. I spent a little extra time staring at the front suspension arms, very nice...

Thanks for the good tips here, and the write up to go with the pictures made it much easier.

cheers
i used a rag, (then i sprayed it with water to make sure all the oil was gone, i reccomend this to insure its totally clean) im still trying to figure out how the filter worked, i forgot to take a close look at it, i rem there was a hole going up the center with an o ring that went into a hole in the middle of the housing, i assume oil got pumped up from there, but was there another whole after that on the other side of the filter? i didnt get a close enough look and i dont remember one
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      04-07-2007, 09:04 PM   #44
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seems easy.
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