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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Tracking, Autocrossing, Dragstrip, Driving Techniques > First Track Car build up time with background



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      11-15-2010, 08:37 PM   #23
donovan
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I would personally class myself as still a beginner, however on the ring its just a mad house so first few times I will be doing general laps trying to understand the car better. I have a map of the ring adn its turns as well as a video I made back when I was in my e46 on the ring to find my mistakes.

Streetable enough to get in it and not be pissed when I feel every bump in the road. I will accept some bumps though, also its a weekend vehicle and perhaps once a week.

Budget, I just configured up a few numbers and with my new savings plans and this car payment plus insurance I can probably safely afford 300-700 a month to buy something for the vehicle to help improve.
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      11-15-2010, 09:26 PM   #24
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For a novice racer, the M in stock form is a great performer. My number one recommendation is getting as much seat time as you can. You’re on the right track (no pun intended) with studying previous footage and maps. What has worked for me is keeping a journal and after every track day, I visualize my laps, jotting down important reference points for turn-in and braking, what I did well, what I could improve on etc. Some have actually sketched out every corner and their reference points in order to have something tangible to review, but with 174 turns, this might be a bit too time consuming. A track video made by an instructor is worth its weight in gold. Another tip: if you can get out there for multiple consecutive days, this will help you familiarize yourself with the track much quicker than a day spaced out here and there.

Although you have experience at the track, the car will drive very different from your previous cars. You will have to re-learn aspects of the track. And at a track as long as The Ring, you can never learn too much. If you have the opportunity to get out there more, I would do so, even if it is at the expense of jumping too heavily into mods. Changing things prematurely will only prolong your learning curve and hide your mistakes. Keeping things simple and working on your fundamentals will make you a much better racer, and faster when you do start modding.

That being said, I do have a few recommendations. These should only be done after you have a substantial amount of seat time in the M. I’ve seen some remarkable driving with the M in stock form, it is no slouch.

1: Performance alignment. This should accompanied with camber plates, another one of my favorite track modifications. This combo is cheap (relatively), and something that should be done even before your next track day. Balancing tire wear and performance is tough, but since the car will be a weekend warrior/track car, you can get away with a fairly aggressive setup. For reference, here are my alignment specs. The car is set up for the street and the occasional track day (I have camber plates). A pyrometer will be your best friend in adjusting this aspect of your suspension.

Front camber: -3.00 **I have no abnormal wear, and I commute with my car. You can probably get away with more negative camber, but this is a good starting point. If it looks you were running on your sidewalls after a track day, adjust accordingly.

Front toe: 1/16” toe-in **Toe-in in the front is merely a safety precaution as toe-out can be dangerous on the street. I would recommend 0 toe for your application or even slight toe-out.

Rear camber: -2.50 **This is fine for you.

Rear toe: 1/16” toe-in **Also fine.

As much caster as possible.

2: Brakes. The M brakes are great but given the track length, this will most likely be your most beneficial upgrade. I prefer StopTech, and an ST-60 front and ST-40 rear would be perfect for your needs. The fade reduction will be truly confidence-inspiring. I’ve heard the Brembo GT system is great too, however I don’t have any personal experience to offer.

3: Dedicated wheels/tires. The 255/275 is a great street setup, but not ideal for the track. 265/295, 285/285, 285/295 are all more favorable combinations. I prefer a square setup, merely a personal preference, and also allows me the ability to rotate tires. For wheels, the old adage, “strong, light, cheap: pick two” is entirely true. Saving up for a set of quality 18s is worth it.

This should get you going for a while, and most importantly have fun out there!

Last edited by cyphr; 11-15-2010 at 09:42 PM.
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      11-15-2010, 11:38 PM   #25
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Thanks so much for the exciting/focused tips. I will take everything that I have learned....

Also you spoke about brakes. From what I understand from my friend who is on this forum hiding someplace, Marcus in his CSL; he tells me to brake a certain way and it will prolong the life and ability to brake over and over with stock OEM brake setup. When braking dont linger on the brakes and hold on them. Get on the brakes and get off them. Also I have equipment and extra "expendable" parts laying around and work where I can fab up my own brake duct system. I researched this and it seems like a trustworthy way to go.

1. New brake fluid
2. Pads
3. Lines
4. Custom brake duct cooling system.

I'm super excited to accomplish this.
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