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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > NA Engine (non-turbo) / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications > knocking idle/vibration while acc.



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      01-11-2011, 06:04 PM   #1
stew4now
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knocking idle/vibration while acc.

ok, this is going to be very hard to describe.
The two problems that i am having with my e90, and they may or may not be related to one another.

first off, when i start the car and i am just in idle, it is very rough, meaning the rev lim goes up and down (up, just over 1k, and down, as far as 500-700), then back to normal. but it doesnt stay normal, the longer you sit there (parked) the more it will go from normal, to low, and then high(this being the rev. lim). and i cant figure it out.. maybe idle control valve?
this has been going on for a few months, didnt think much of it cause the car drives normal otherwise.
also, quick add on, while in idle and its doing its thing, i hear a knocking sound, cant pinpoint it, but its def internal of engine. its a soft knock, but i know that isnt right.

second problem, which just came up today, i drove to work on icy rds, and rushed in, i forgot i left the car in R (oh its a manual, 4got to mention). anyway, i never leave it in reverse, normally like 2nd and pull the brake a little.
so i get in my car to go home, pissed i left it how i did, started it up, very rough start, car shook and vibrated. WHOAH, let it sit, start to drive,... and after i put it in gear and pressed the pedal, it started to vibrate and shake.
it almost felt like my fan blade was broke or missing fins.(if thats ever happened to you, you know what i mean)
so the whole time driving home, each time i have it in gear and start to accelerate, it starts to vibrate, throughout the car. i wish i could describe it more. its not VIOLENT, but scary.
but after driving home, i determined that the shaking and vibrating ONLY occur when IM IN GEAR, AND PRESS THE GAS PEDAL.
and one other thing i noticed, after gettin to road speed, the shifter is normally in 5th/6th gear, but today if i had it in 6th, the shaking and more so the vibration would get worse.

I hope someone is experiencing maybe a few of these symptoms and hopefully you guys/girls can help me figure it out.

i dont know much about the e90, im more of an e36, so idk where to begin.
any help is appreciated! thanks
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      01-11-2011, 07:54 PM   #2
Casca
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Coilpack/s. Check them. Search here for how to do it
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      01-11-2011, 09:06 PM   #3
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Idling issues could be PVC lines and it wont throw a code right away. Vibration could be engine or drivetrain. Maybe center support bearing. Ignition could be it too as Casca has said. Dead coil packs may not throw a code immediately either.
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      01-16-2011, 11:12 AM   #4
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ok, well here is the update. took it to advance, they plugged the scanner in.
so i got two code back,
1st. P0305, which says cylinder 5 misfire condition, then it says probable cause
, plugged or faulty fuel injector
Vacuum leak
or engine mechanical condition
then the second code it gives
2nd P0442... and ill just type what the paper says
EVAp system small leak detected
faulty purge solenoid,
probable cause....
faulty vent solenoid
loose or missing fuel cap
or loose/faulty purge line

so... i bought a new coil pack for cylinder 5, and i went ahead and purchased new spark plugs... after putting all that back in, i still have the same problem, not nearly as bad cause i changed the spark plugs and they needed it. so now im stuck.
so i went back to advance and they plugged the scanner in... and sure enough, same thing, cylinder 5 misfire(P0305) and P0442.

im thinking i have a clogged fuel injector, but im not 100%. should i go purchase fuel injector cleaner?? as a first step?

idk any help is appreciated very much!
i would just like to know, where you think i should start.. i have off tomorrow so i can dig into it if needed.

oh and also.. while the engine was running, (and this i did today) i unplugged coil 5, and the engine wasnt affected, so do you think there could be an electrical issue? not likely right? and the coil i bought, the latch doesnt seem to close all the way, but im pretty sure the harness is connected. idk the coil latch is like this. why could the coil pack not be working in cyl 5?

Last edited by stew4now; 01-16-2011 at 11:20 AM.
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      01-16-2011, 12:43 PM   #5
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When I said coilpacks, check them. Search here for how to do it. That is what I meant. Sooner or later you will need the coilpack since it does wear, but it is very simple to check them without buying anything.




Quote:
oh and also.. while the engine was running, (and this i did today) i unplugged coil 5, and the engine wasnt affected, so do you think there could be an electrical issue? not likely right? and the coil i bought, the latch doesnt seem to close all the way, but im pretty sure the harness is connected. idk the coil latch is like this. why could the coil pack not be working in cyl 5?
Swap your #5 coilpack with another cylinder. Is the #5 coilpack you unplugged your new one?

Firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4 . I've read that that some people got a misfire #X cylinder and the cause was the coilpack preceding the cylinder that is faulty on the obdii, so move #1 cylinders coilpack too, although I doubt it will make a difference but is easy enough to do to eliminate the chance it is the cause. A bottle of Techron concentrated can't hurt and you should be doing that regularly anyway (non-concentrated), but I'd still bet on it being your coilpack since unplugging the pack did nothing. Look at the pins/contacts on the #5 connector wiring harness. Look at the plastic connector latch on the the coilpack for cracks. Make sure you plugged em all in correctly and double check everything you have done, including your sparkplug install.

Last edited by Casca; 01-16-2011 at 01:03 PM.
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      01-21-2011, 05:03 PM   #6
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ok so I finally fixed it. and lesson learned.
ONLY BUY COIL-PACKS FROM BMW!

the coil pack that i purchased from an auto parts store, the latch did not fully pull the wires in, therefore it didnt work.

and honestly they weren't that expensive from the dealer. only $64

but thanks anyway for everyones help!
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      01-21-2011, 06:46 PM   #7
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how often do coils go bad? just hit 38k miles and after one really really bad rainy day car hasnt been the same. it seems like its bit laggy and bogged. and is it covered under warranty?
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      01-22-2011, 09:01 AM   #8
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i do believe it is covered under warranty.

I dont think its likely to have one go bad with that low of miles, but stranger things have happened.
call your dealer and ask.
or if you want to trouble shoot yourself and save a $50 dec, watch this video and do it to yours.
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      01-22-2011, 12:13 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stew4now View Post
ok so I finally fixed it. and lesson learned.
ONLY BUY COIL-PACKS FROM BMW!

the coil pack that i purchased from an auto parts store, the latch did not fully pull the wires in, therefore it didnt work.

and honestly they weren't that expensive from the dealer. only $64

but thanks anyway for everyones help!
Tischer sells them for $42ish + shipping and they are the same parts the dealer has. Both dealers near me sells them for just under $90. I'd order some more as these are wear parts and it's very possible you'll see 5 more fail sooner or later.
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