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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Tracking, Autocrossing, Dragstrip, Driving Techniques > Bolts vs Studs?



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      01-21-2011, 12:10 AM   #1
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Bolts vs Studs?

Is there a preference/difference when it comes to using bolts or studs to mount your wheels when it comes to tracking a car?
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      01-21-2011, 10:09 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrackRat View Post
Both will functionally perform fine. Studs are easier that's all.
Now that I'm going to regularly be swapping my track setup on and off for this year's autocross season, I'm interested in studs as well to save time. Are there any downsides, other than the basic cost to convert? Any safety issues or increased risk factors in a competition environment versus the keeping the proven factory lug setup?
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      01-21-2011, 02:34 PM   #3
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Just save your money and buy an impact gun and keep the lugs. The difference is like 10 minutes...
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      01-21-2011, 02:48 PM   #4
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Studs are one of those things that if you don't have it, you won't miss it...But once you go studs you will never go back. None of my cars have bolts now. Well worth the $150 ish investment for a whole set if you ask me. Plus if you run spacers studs make it a lot easier to put the wheels on, especially if the spacers are relatively small.
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      01-21-2011, 07:07 PM   #5
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yea, its mostly for spacers of different lengths. Otherwise youll need to keep different length studs for each set. If you own only one set, or dont use spacers at all, the time is about the same for both.
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      01-24-2011, 10:00 PM   #6
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The only thing I appreciated studs for was zipping nuts on with an impact wrench. The non-threaded ends of the RRT studs I had made cross threading impossible. Lining up a wheel center on a hub is a lot easier than lining up five studs with five small holes on a wheel. Think about it...

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      01-24-2011, 11:51 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoosyJoos View Post
Just save your money and buy an impact gun and keep the lugs. The difference is like 10 minutes...
100% agree, studs are only really needed if you're gonna be swapping out wheels and tires during a race
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      01-24-2011, 11:56 PM   #8
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studs(80mm) all the way.....worth the investment!
i could be swapping out 5mm, 10mm, or 12mm spacers with eased........
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      01-25-2011, 12:02 AM   #9
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I find it easier without studs. Mount the wheel on the center hub and done.
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      01-25-2011, 01:46 PM   #10
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Any makes that you guys favor? Macht Schnell or others?
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      02-02-2011, 10:20 AM   #11
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studs just for ease of changing wheels. and if you ever want to run spacers, never have to worry about getting longer bolts.
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      02-02-2011, 12:16 PM   #12
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just make sure you don't get any cheapo studs if you go with them b/c I went that route and the lugnuts ended up seizing onto the studs and was a pita to separate them.
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      02-02-2011, 06:23 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick@DetailAddict View Post
just make sure you don't get any cheapo studs if you go with them b/c I went that route and the lugnuts ended up seizing onto the studs and was a pita to separate them.
Quote:
Originally Posted by kenneth View Post
Any makes that you guys favor? Macht Schnell or others?
That's the reason for my asking the recommended brands, from those in the know!
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      02-02-2011, 06:45 PM   #14
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IMO, the "features" to look for are:

1) Strength of the material. You'll want studs that are of a grade equivalent to OEM fastener. The BMW wheel bolts are grade 10.9 I believe. You don't want a softer material or even a higher grade, because the ability for fastener to clamp the wheel onto the hub is highly dependent on the stretchability of the material AND the durability of the fastener is dependent on the strength. Therefore a very narrow grade of steel needs to be used, or at least the equivalent of that.

2) To prevent galvanic reaction between the nut and the stud, it is best to have anodized or powder coated studs. A bare finish CAN result in seized nut to the stud.

3) Length of the studs will determine what size spacers you can run, but if the spacers are larger than 15mm you shouldn't use them on studs anyway. 15mm or larger spacers SHOULD BE BOLTED TO THE HUB.

There are a couple of additional features that will be beneficial but not always necessary. Allen key ends or hex ends on the studs will make installation and removal (and you WILL remove them. All fasteners, even BMW OEM lug bolts, should be replaced after x numbers of use) much easier. Also, bulleted ends will make installing the nut a lot easier and decrease the chances of cross-threading the fastener if you use an impact tool.

This is what I use:

http://www.racingbrake.com/RB_Wheel_...t_p/bmw-80.htm

I tried to set up a group buy deal here a long time ago, don't know if the deal is still valid...But if you search on their website there's some references to it.
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      02-02-2011, 11:22 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The HACK View Post
IMO, the "features" to look for are:

1) Strength of the material. You'll want studs that are of a grade equivalent to OEM fastener. The BMW wheel bolts are grade 10.9 I believe. You don't want a softer material or even a higher grade, because the ability for fastener to clamp the wheel onto the hub is highly dependent on the stretchability of the material AND the durability of the fastener is dependent on the strength. Therefore a very narrow grade of steel needs to be used, or at least the equivalent of that.

2) To prevent galvanic reaction between the nut and the stud, it is best to have anodized or powder coated studs. A bare finish CAN result in seized nut to the stud.

3) Length of the studs will determine what size spacers you can run, but if the spacers are larger than 15mm you shouldn't use them on studs anyway. 15mm or larger spacers SHOULD BE BOLTED TO THE HUB.

There are a couple of additional features that will be beneficial but not always necessary. Allen key ends or hex ends on the studs will make installation and removal (and you WILL remove them. All fasteners, even BMW OEM lug bolts, should be replaced after x numbers of use) much easier. Also, bulleted ends will make installing the nut a lot easier and decrease the chances of cross-threading the fastener if you use an impact tool.

This is what I use:

http://www.racingbrake.com/RB_Wheel_...t_p/bmw-80.htm

I tried to set up a group buy deal here a long time ago, don't know if the deal is still valid...But if you search on their website there's some references to it.
I have the same racingbrake brand studs.....with BLOX Racing Forged Aluminum lug nut.
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      02-03-2011, 09:59 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The HACK View Post
IMO, the "features" to look for are:

1) Strength of the material. You'll want studs that are of a grade equivalent to OEM fastener. The BMW wheel bolts are grade 10.9 I believe. You don't want a softer material or even a higher grade, because the ability for fastener to clamp the wheel onto the hub is highly dependent on the stretchability of the material AND the durability of the fastener is dependent on the strength. Therefore a very narrow grade of steel needs to be used, or at least the equivalent of that.

2) To prevent galvanic reaction between the nut and the stud, it is best to have anodized or powder coated studs. A bare finish CAN result in seized nut to the stud.

3) Length of the studs will determine what size spacers you can run, but if the spacers are larger than 15mm you shouldn't use them on studs anyway. 15mm or larger spacers SHOULD BE BOLTED TO THE HUB.

There are a couple of additional features that will be beneficial but not always necessary. Allen key ends or hex ends on the studs will make installation and removal (and you WILL remove them. All fasteners, even BMW OEM lug bolts, should be replaced after x numbers of use) much easier. Also, bulleted ends will make installing the nut a lot easier and decrease the chances of cross-threading the fastener if you use an impact tool.

This is what I use:

http://www.racingbrake.com/RB_Wheel_...t_p/bmw-80.htm

I tried to set up a group buy deal here a long time ago, don't know if the deal is still valid...But if you search on their website there's some references to it.
Great info, as always. This is what I was looking for. Thanks for the detailed write-up and link.
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      02-03-2011, 12:18 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The HACK View Post
IMO, the "features" to look for are:

1) Strength of the material. You'll want studs that are of a grade equivalent to OEM fastener. The BMW wheel bolts are grade 10.9 I believe. You don't want a softer material or even a higher grade, because the ability for fastener to clamp the wheel onto the hub is highly dependent on the stretchability of the material AND the durability of the fastener is dependent on the strength. Therefore a very narrow grade of steel needs to be used, or at least the equivalent of that.

2) To prevent galvanic reaction between the nut and the stud, it is best to have anodized or powder coated studs. A bare finish CAN result in seized nut to the stud.

3) Length of the studs will determine what size spacers you can run, but if the spacers are larger than 15mm you shouldn't use them on studs anyway. 15mm or larger spacers SHOULD BE BOLTED TO THE HUB.

There are a couple of additional features that will be beneficial but not always necessary. Allen key ends or hex ends on the studs will make installation and removal (and you WILL remove them. All fasteners, even BMW OEM lug bolts, should be replaced after x numbers of use) much easier. Also, bulleted ends will make installing the nut a lot easier and decrease the chances of cross-threading the fastener if you use an impact tool.

This is what I use:

http://www.racingbrake.com/RB_Wheel_...t_p/bmw-80.htm

I tried to set up a group buy deal here a long time ago, don't know if the deal is still valid...But if you search on their website there's some references to it.
I don't think anyone powdercoats studs, but most will be zinc oxide plated or in the case with RAD, dacromet.
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      02-03-2011, 01:13 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tom @ eas View Post
I don't think anyone powdercoats studs, but most will be zinc oxide plated or in the case with RAD, dacromet.
On that front, I'm not even sure if powdercoat is that durable for stud use anyway. Dacromet seems to be the more popular and better choice for coating.
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      02-03-2011, 02:12 PM   #19
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      02-04-2011, 11:12 AM   #20
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I say go studs! You won't have to worry about dropping the wheels on your brakes.
This guys is selling new ones for a good price.
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=484717
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      02-05-2011, 01:08 PM   #21
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Any makes that you guys favor? Macht Schnell or others?
I bought the track kit from bimmerworld. Costed me 114 shipped. They apparently have the highest tensile strength on the market. I got mine nickel plated black and I love them. Makes it so much easier to take the wheel on and off.

http://store.bimmerworld.com/bimmerw...age-p1350.aspx
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      02-08-2011, 09:15 PM   #22
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We like both the TCK and RB studs, both are very well made.

The TCK studs has a rounded ends allowing quick start of the lug nuts and less likely chance of cross threading. Made from degassed, tumble blasted 4140 aircraft steel and coated with baked on dry film lubricant. I use these my personal car.

RB studs allow easy removal when you decide to go back to lug bolts. The typical allen drive(80-90% of them are that way) stud kits out there...you will never get those off without stripping them, then it's breaking out your Vise-grip and destroy your studs in the process.

You get what you pay for in wheel studs as well!
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