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      01-08-2011, 09:35 AM   #1
PersianPete
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Post DIY - rear brake pads + brake pad sensor

There is a tutorial for replacing the front brake pads on this forum thanks to Mr5, and although changing the rears are very similar I thought I would document my change as a few people have been asking for the rears.

Please note: I am not a professional mechanic and have posted this information for the sake of just that... information

Step 1: Jack your car up. If your car is lowered like mine you will have trouble getting the jack in the usual location, so I used the chassis where the rear wishbones connect. (I suspect they are not actually called rear wishbones so I'll let the pictures do the talking)


Step 2a: Remove the Brake Pad Sensor. It comes with a small clip that slides into the inner pad. The clip will probably not come out with the sensor and stay on the inner pad. Remember to remove it when you take off the pad.





Step 2b: Remove the front clip.


Step 3: Crack open the 2 bolts holding the calipers in place. I used a 5/8 socket.




PLEASE NOTE - The following pictures are now from the other side of the car (left side)

Step 4: With the 2 bolts removed, the caliper will slide out. It may be held in place from slight piston pressure. A bit of strength won't hurt here. Put a fuel can or a paint can under the hub so you can rest the caliper. DON'T LET IT HANG ON THE BRAKE LINE!!


Step 5: Remove the pads. They will slide out. The outside one isn't held by any clips.


The inside pad may resist as it has the clips inside the piston.




Step 6: Pull the caliper bracket out, and clean. Ensure the sliders are clean of rust and free to slide in an out. Some Water Displacement (WD40 or similar) spray works a treat.


... and clean


Step 7: Push the piston back. Your new pads have double the meat as your old ones so you'll need space. I picked this Brake Caliper Tool from my local Auto Store (Repco or Supercheap Auto) for $13. You can also use a G-Clamp.
I used the old pad to spread the pressure over the piston.


New clearance...


Step 8: Insert new pads.
Ensure your new pads are the same as your old ones. ie. size and clips etc.
I put Anti-Squeal on my pads cause lets face it... these mofo's squeal!!!

Do this - put paste on metal bits of back side of new pads. Also note the paste on the side where the metals will be touching.


DON'T DO THIS - the pads without the clips will be facing outwards and can be seen. Luckily I had a high-pressure water cleaner and was able to clean off the anti-squeal paste.
The picture below shows the old pads on the left, and then new pads on the right.


Inside Pad


Outer Pad


Step 9: Attach Caliper back onto hub. Just slide it on while ensuring your pads are put in straight, and there is enough clearance for the rotor. Once in place, put the bolts back on.

This picture also shows the front clip re-attached.


Step 10: CHANGE the brake pad sensor!!! See notes and photos below.

This photo demonstrates how the sensor sits on the inner brake pad. Put the clip on the sensor and slide it back into place.


On my car, the brake pad sensor was on the right hand side.

Don't forget to pump your brakes before using, and bed them in properly etc etc. You know the deal.

Good Luck


and finally...

Go out and enjoy your Bimmer
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edit: pictures below for changing rear brake pad sensor

1. Remove wheel arch shrouding. Combination of 10mm plastic nuts and 8mm screws. You don't need to remove the whole thing, but I removed the whole thing for better viewing.




2. Locate Brake Pad Sensor - it's the white one. The picture below shows my holding up the new one next to it confirming size etc.


3. Replace old with new. I started from the connection, but you can start from the brake pad end. Un-clip the clips, replace old with new, and re-clip into position.


4. VOILA... Image shows new sensor clipped into brake pad. It took a bit of fiddling to get it clipped in properly but easy enough.


5. Replace shrouding, wheels, bolts etc.

6. Reset Brake warning light in the dash. There are a few good threads about this already on the forum eg. http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...ht=reset+brake. I haven't been able to get mine right despite trying everything under the sun, so I'm gonna make a trip to my indi BMW mechanic. FML
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Last edited by PersianPete; 07-04-2011 at 08:42 AM.
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      01-08-2011, 10:40 AM   #2
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Thanks PersianPete. I'm printing this and keeping it for future reference!
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      01-08-2011, 10:56 AM   #3
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good write up, but you could have jacked it up from the diff. (NOT the diff cover)
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      01-14-2011, 12:46 PM   #4
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Nice DIY! Will keep in mind for future reference.
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      01-14-2011, 09:37 PM   #5
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Good write up, but you totally left out how to remove the sensor and replace it with a new sensor. The sensor wire needs to be carefully re-routed in the same location (and clips) as the old sensor. This involves partially removing the inner fender well and right rear valance panel. Good picks though.
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      01-14-2011, 10:39 PM   #6
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Great write-up and photos.

One suggestion: when you're pushing the piston(s) back, bleed the brake fluid into a brake bleeding tool. Ideally, brake fluid should always move through the master out to the slaves, and not back into the master (also, if your reservoir is full, you risk over flowing it if you're pushing a lot of fluid back.) This prevents any contaminants from damaging the master. When finished, use the bleeding tool to bleed some fluid and any air from the slave.
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      01-15-2011, 04:00 AM   #7
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Nice write up..



Love the euro bumpers
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      01-20-2011, 09:10 AM   #8
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I will be replacing the brake pad sensor this weekend and will post up an addendum =]
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      01-22-2011, 07:37 AM   #9
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nice DIY PersianPete
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      02-13-2011, 12:28 PM   #10
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edit - new pictures added for instructions to change brake pad sensor.
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      03-05-2011, 10:41 PM   #11
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Fantastic- to the tee instructions. I have been doing my E46 for years and had to check your reference just to make sure nothing changed. I wish this was 10yrs ago... trial and error is not fun!! LOL!

I have been removing the caliper screws.. Is this wrong?

Last edited by clarkinc; 03-06-2011 at 02:42 AM.
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      04-30-2011, 09:47 PM   #12
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Great post! I replaced my front & rear brakes, rotors, and sensors today. Your post let me know what I was getting into, so it saved me a ton of time. The entire project was flawless until the last brake/rotor replacement, which was the rear passenger side. The rotor and emergency brake drum were stuck together due to corrosion. The e-brake drum came off with the rotor.... then I had to figure out how to piece the e-brake drum back together. That part alone took sidetracked my project by over an hour. Other than that, it was a smooth project. Thanks again for the great post!
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      05-09-2011, 04:54 AM   #13
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i did some surfing and came across the pelican website and their tutorial for brake pad changes and noticed something different in theirs. They say to remove plastic caps off of the back of the calipers and unscrew allen screws to take the calipers off. I'm wondering if those allen screws are actually for the bleeder valves?
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      05-15-2011, 12:01 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by templarjay View Post
i did some surfing and came across the pelican website and their tutorial for brake pad changes and noticed something different in theirs. They say to remove plastic caps off of the back of the calipers and unscrew allen screws to take the calipers off. I'm wondering if those allen screws are actually for the bleeder valves?
That's another way of doing this and works if you are going to replace only the pads and not the rotor. For me the way explained in this post is easier. These allen screws are actually the sliders so if you are going to change the sliders you will need to remove them.
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      06-06-2011, 08:25 AM   #15
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Rotors stick to hub

I changed the rear brakes and rotors on my 2006 325xi yesterday. Everything went well until I tried to remove the first rotor. It ws frozen to the center hub(dissimilar metal corrison). I checked to make sure the emergency brake was off. Since I did not have a wheel puller, my nephew suggested using a torch to heat up the rotor and crack the corrison.

Well after some time and a hammer, we were able to remove the rotor. Had to do to the same to the other rotor also.

After that things were just simple. I had replaced my front brakes and rotors on my E46 last year so I knew what to expect.

Has anyone had this problem with frozen rotors??

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      06-09-2011, 09:24 AM   #16
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Brake sensor Replacement is necessary

I replaced the rear pads per this DYI on my 2006 325xi. I tried to reset the onboard computer (OBC). I was able to reset the value from 3400 miles to minus 15,000 miles. Of course I got a red warning service indication and red "Brake" light. After some reading on the forum, I found that the sensor has a variable resistance and must be replaced if one wants the OBC to be reset to a positive number of miles.

I replaced the brake sensor (BMW #34356789445) and was able to reset the computer to 31,000 miles. All of the red warnings went away.

So, if you want the E90 onboard computer (OBC) to function correctly when brake pads are replaced, the sensor must be replaced!!!

I measured the DC resistance of the new sensor and old sensor.
New sensor = 0.5 ohms
Old sensor = 450 ohms
So, as the sensor wears down, the resistance goes up. This is in contrast to the E46 sensor that is an open(infinite ohms) or short(zero ohms) situation.

Will the author of this DYI and make sure the DYI is updated.

Thanks

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      06-09-2011, 11:10 AM   #17
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Good DIY but taking out the entire caliper assembly by removing the bolts is unnecessary unless you're planning to change your rotors too.

Removing the 2 caliper pins (torqued at 22lb/ft only) with a 7mm allen wrench is a very easy way to change your pads.

PS. Sorry, just noticed this was already mentioned above
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      06-14-2011, 12:05 AM   #18
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thanks dude.. wish i had seen about the hex pins earlier, those two bolts are a pain to get to!!
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      06-24-2011, 11:34 PM   #19
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The two slider pins holding the pads that you remove are easy to find as they have rubber dust caps on them. Torque to 22lbs.

New brake sensors at the pad end are coated with plastic, if the pad has not worn down enough that it has started wearing off the plastic then you do not need to replace the cable or reset the service.

Before doing this go out and pick up some brake fluid, check the brake fluid cap, it will tell you what it needs, mine is p21s. Suction out the fluid reservoir before squeezing the pistons back in then suction it again after pushing the pistons in, fill the reservoir back up with fresh then bleed the brakes after you change the pads.
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      06-25-2011, 10:06 AM   #20
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I hope you guys know that you have to re-adjust the parking brake shoes after pulling the rear rotors.
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      07-09-2011, 08:46 PM   #21
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Minor tip: line up the new outer brake bad or look at the old brake pad to see which areas are contacting the caliper and which parts are visible to outside. Only put the squeal paste in the contact areas, otherwise the bright orange past will be visible to all.
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      07-14-2011, 09:40 PM   #22
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Can I still engage my "hand brake" before I jack up my car and change my rear brake?
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