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      06-15-2011, 03:09 AM   #419
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Hi folks,

I need some input here.

My ER sports oilcooler, which replaces the stock OC on the passenger side with a bigger core, is about to arrive. Right now I have the AR Design OC in front of the radiator but found oil temps to rise too high.

Now I don't know if I should run both OCs in series, or if I should get rid of the AR OC to free up airflow to the radiator, which may be useful since I'm AT.

What do you think works best?
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      06-15-2011, 11:20 AM   #420
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I don't know how the AR cooler mounts and everything, but is it possible to get longer lines and run that to the driver's side foglight / bumper area?
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      06-15-2011, 12:10 PM   #421
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Autobahn335i View Post
Hi folks,

I need some input here.

My ER sports oilcooler, which replaces the stock OC on the passenger side with a bigger core, is about to arrive. Right now I have the AR Design OC in front of the radiator but found oil temps to rise too high.

Now I don't know if I should run both OCs in series, or if I should get rid of the AR OC to free up airflow to the radiator, which may be useful since I'm AT.

What do you think works best?
Personally I'm running a similar setup right now and have left the ar design oil cooler in. Oil temps even when driving 300 km/h are barely above 120 degrees Celsius.

If you see that you get a problem with your coolant temps, I would consider taking out the ar design oil cooler in order to see whether the more unrestricted airflow gives you more cooling.

A friend of mine also has both oil coolers on his car (E92Fan) without problems (even as an AT).

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      06-15-2011, 01:00 PM   #422
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I'm going to guess that at 300km/h you're getting so much air flow that you won't be overheating even when pushing the motor really hard. On a smaller track, behind cars at lower speeds, I can see the oil coolers and radiators having a lot less airflow though.
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      06-16-2011, 07:52 AM   #423
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I'm going to guess that at 300km/h you're getting so much air flow that you won't be overheating even when pushing the motor really hard.
That is what I thought as well.

However, without the upgraded stock oil cooler (in addition to the ar design oil cooler), the oil temperatures were rising well beyond 135 degrees Celsius when I drove faster than 240 km/h for more than 20 seconds. When approaching 300 km/h, the oil temp was almost at 140 degrees, which made me upgrade the stock oil cooler.

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      06-16-2011, 08:43 AM   #424
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Thread synopsis: The 335i’s Steptronic transmission/cooling system configuration is intended for street use. If you’re an experienced track driver and there's a chance you might track your 335i someday, make sure you get a car with a manual gearbox (and ZSP). Even then, the car will still have an open differential (one-wheel-drive) and run-flat tires that aren't intended for track use anyway...
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      06-16-2011, 11:39 AM   #425
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TJDiCandido View Post
Thread synopsis: The 335i’s Steptronic transmission/cooling system configuration is intended for street use. If you’re an experienced track driver and there's a chance you might track your 335i someday, make sure you get a car with a manual gearbox (and ZSP). Even then, the car will still have an open differential (one-wheel-drive) and run-flat tires that aren't intended for track use anyway...
Not quite. We're way beyond that. The correct thread synopsis is:

We've identified the majority of N54 issues that cause limp modes at the track, we're logging (for the first time ever AFAIK) actual water/oil and other data points for several after market solutions towards identifying configurations that would allow N54s (MTs and ATs) to successfully run on the track.
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      06-16-2011, 12:43 PM   #426
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^ I know this is off topic, but as a 335i owner I recognize that it’s simply not cost effective to spend lots of $$$ prepping the car for track duty.

IMO, the most cost effective alternative can be summed up in one word: “Miata”. Although Miatas don’t have HP to spare, they’re among the most well-balanced, reliable and inexpensive track cars to run and maintain. They also come standard with proper limited slip differentials. These cars do almost anything drivers demand of them: responsive handling, smooth power delivery, trailing throttle oversteer, power on oversteer, trail braking… They’re predictable, forgiving and very fun to drive on a challenging road course. They’re also better in the turns than many exotic sports cars.

You can routinely find race-ready first generation Spec Miatas with extra wheels, tires, spare parts, etc., selling for $10-15k. This is a fraction of the cost of buying and race-prepping most other track cars, especially BMWs. The bottom line is that the Mazda MX-5 Miata is a very capable and extremely cost-effective track car. Consumables such as brake rotors, pads, tires and spare parts are cheap too.

The Miata is definitely worth considering before spending thousands of dollars modding a 335i. Also, don’t dismiss the Miata’s capabilities until you’ve tracked one…
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      06-16-2011, 12:56 PM   #427
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TJDiCandido View Post
Thread synopsis: The 335i’s Steptronic transmission/cooling system configuration is intended for street use. If you’re an experienced track driver and there's a chance you might track your 335i someday, make sure you get a car with a manual gearbox (and ZSP). Even then, the car will still have an open differential (one-wheel-drive) and run-flat tires that aren't intended for track use anyway...
Well I got a manual, ZSP, LSD, and non run flats. We'll see how this goes...
Quote:
Originally Posted by TJDiCandido View Post
^ I know this is off topic, but as a 335i owner I recognize that it’s simply not cost effective to spend lots of $$$ prepping the car for track duty.

IMO, the most cost effective alternative can be summed up in one word: “Miata”. Although Miatas don’t have HP to spare, they’re among the most well-balanced, reliable and inexpensive track cars to run and maintain. They also come standard with proper limited slip differentials. These cars do almost anything drivers demand of them: responsive handling, smooth power delivery, trailing throttle oversteer, power on oversteer, trail braking… They’re predictable, forgiving and very fun to drive on a challenging road course. They’re also better in the turns than many exotic sports cars.

You can routinely find race-ready first generation Spec Miatas with extra wheels, tires, spare parts, etc., selling for $10-15k. This is a fraction of the cost of buying and race-prepping most other track cars, especially BMWs. The bottom line is that the Mazda MX-5 Miata is a very capable and extremely cost-effective track car. Consumables such as brake rotors, pads, tires and spare parts are cheap too.

The Miata is definitely worth considering before spending thousands of dollars modding a 335i. Also, don’t dismiss the Miata’s capabilities until you’ve tracked one…
I doubt anyone in this thread is doubting the spec Miata's capabilities. But I'm not going to go buy yet another car (that's non-op), trailer, and truck.
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      06-16-2011, 03:55 PM   #428
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did anyone here upgrade to the JB4 yet? they just (6/4) released a new software update that includes a MaxCool mode. i'm going to try it out on the 6/30 HPDE up at new hampshire

from http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=544144
Water pump and fan will run at 100% duty when water temperature is between 160 and 202 degrees F. At 203 degrees F the DME ignores the fan command but appears to continue to overrun the water pump. We'll keep working on finding a way to extend the fan range upward to make the feature more useful.
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      06-16-2011, 07:12 PM   #429
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I'll try maxcool on 7/12, let us know how it goes on 6/30
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      06-17-2011, 02:04 PM   #430
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TJDiCandido View Post
Thread synopsis: The 335i’s Steptronic transmission/cooling system configuration is intended for street use. If you’re an experienced track driver and there's a chance you might track your 335i someday, make sure you get a car with a manual gearbox (and ZSP). Even then, the car will still have an open differential (one-wheel-drive) and run-flat tires that aren't intended for track use anyway...
..........Jerk.
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      06-17-2011, 02:10 PM   #431
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^ I know this is off topic, but as a 335i owner I recognize that it’s simply not cost effective to spend lots of $$$ prepping the car for track duty.
Which "Track-Prepped" E46 M3 can outrun this 335I, for less $$$
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      06-17-2011, 04:44 PM   #432
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..........Jerk.
I simply don't have a false persistent belief about the capabilities of a Steptronic-equipped 335i on a race track.

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Originally Posted by Turkeybaster115 View Post
Which "Track-Prepped" E46 M3 can outrun this 335I, for less $$$
??? I never implied the E46 M3 was an ideal track car. However, the E46 M3's sustained performance on a track is far superior to any N54-equipped car.

I also noticed that the E90 335i in your video wasn't equipped with a Steptronic slushbox...
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      06-17-2011, 07:59 PM   #433
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Candido- I appreciate your opinions. This thread has remained focused on dealing with the cooling issues that face N54's at the track, and how best to tackle those problems. It is a positive thread, made up of people who enjoy tracking their N54 and want to add positive feedback to help make it more enjoyable.

You are entitled to your opinion, but unless you have something positive to add to our discussion -please post it somewhere else. There is no need to make any car comparisons or negative comments about transmissions, they serve no purpose here. So take your trolling ass elsewhere.

Any further comments by you that are not contributory will be summarily ignored.
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      06-17-2011, 10:14 PM   #434
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Any of you guys tried this DIY oil cooler?

I asked the guy why he tig welded 90 degree fittings (as opposed to buying off the shelf one) and it had to do with needing clearance between the hood and that nobody made the proper fitting with M20x1.5 threads.

I like the idea. Not terribly fond of paying $600+ for an oil cooler. Those plugs can be purchased separately so the car can be returned to stock. I would probably dump the second oil cooler in the drivers side wheel well.

Last edited by Stangorang; 06-17-2011 at 10:20 PM.
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      06-18-2011, 07:46 AM   #435
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Read the DIY $250 oil cooler, interesting!

Is it clear to everyone what the final conclusion was of running without the thermostat?
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      06-18-2011, 03:22 PM   #436
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stangorang View Post
Any of you guys tried this DIY oil cooler?

I asked the guy why he tig welded 90 degree fittings (as opposed to buying off the shelf one) and it had to do with needing clearance between the hood and that nobody made the proper fitting with M20x1.5 threads.

I like the idea. Not terribly fond of paying $600+ for an oil cooler. Those plugs can be purchased separately so the car can be returned to stock. I would probably dump the second oil cooler in the drivers side wheel well.
I've checked out that thread. Wondering if these 2 fittings would have worked. First is a M20x1.5 to 8AN, and the second link has a 90* 8AN. Buying them separately is definitely not cheap though, considering you need 2 of each.

http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...asp?RecID=5064
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...oduct=3276-300

EDIT:
This would probably work better in lieu of the 2nd link. You can attach the line directly to the end, and they are swivel fittings:
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...p?Product=3271

Quote:
Originally Posted by kenneth View Post
Read the DIY $250 oil cooler, interesting!

Is it clear to everyone what the final conclusion was of running without the thermostat?
I'm not 100% sure we even understand how that thermostat/spring works. There was a pretty lengthy thread about it that Mr. 5 started but when I last checked it was not conclusive.

EDIT 2:
This Pegasus Auto Racing site is a gold mine for these parts. This looks just like the STETT OC thermostat. You could run this in line for the oil cooler and remove that thermostat / spring thing in the stock housing.

http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...p?Product=1226
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      06-18-2011, 03:37 PM   #437
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Heck, does anyone know what size threads the stock oil cooler lines (that go into the oil filter housing area) are? If it's also M20x1.5, it would be pretty easy to use those fittings to get some 8AN or 10AN lines down to the stock cooler location and replace it with a setrab core.
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      06-18-2011, 05:47 PM   #438
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chowbow View Post
I've checked out that thread. Wondering if these 2 fittings would have worked. First is a M20x1.5 to 8AN, and the second link has a 90* 8AN. Buying them separately is definitely not cheap though, considering you need 2 of each.

http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...asp?RecID=5064
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...oduct=3276-300

EDIT:
This would probably work better in lieu of the 2nd link. You can attach the line directly to the end, and they are swivel fittings:
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...p?Product=3271



I'm not 100% sure we even understand how that thermostat/spring works. There was a pretty lengthy thread about it that Mr. 5 started but when I last checked it was not conclusive.

EDIT 2:
This Pegasus Auto Racing site is a gold mine for these parts. This looks just like the STETT OC thermostat. You could run this in line for the oil cooler and remove that thermostat / spring thing in the stock housing.

http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...p?Product=1226

I don't think the M20x1.5 + the angle fitting will fit. The clearance between the hood and the top of the thermostat is pretty limited. It might though, worth a shot if you can return the parts.

I messed with the thermostat spring. I am not convinced it does much with a stock oil cooler. A larger unit or two units might be a different story.

No need for another thermostat unless you make a plate like the Stett plate which removes the stock thermostat.

I really want to stop by XRP and see if they have any fittings that may work.
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      06-18-2011, 06:15 PM   #439
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UltraRacer13 View Post
Candido- I appreciate your opinions. This thread has remained focused on dealing with the cooling issues that face N54's at the track, and how best to tackle those problems. It is a positive thread, made up of people who enjoy tracking their N54 and want to add positive feedback to help make it more enjoyable.

You are entitled to your opinion, but unless you have something positive to add to our discussion -please post it somewhere else. There is no need to make any car comparisons or negative comments about transmissions, they serve no purpose here. So take your trolling ass elsewhere.

Any further comments by you that are not contributory will be summarily ignored.
As proven in the 1M, the N54 engine’s heat issues can be mitigated by a bigger capacity radiator with improved air flow to keep it cooler. There’s probably a very good (heat-related) reason why BMW’s M division only offers a manual gearbox on the 1M though.

Although ZSP 335i’s with manual gearboxes have far less heat issues than Steptronic-equipped cars, they still have inadequate stock cooling capability for sustained hot lapping on a track. Steptronic-equipped 335i's add far more heat to the car’s already inadequate cooling system through an oil to water heat exchanger for transmission cooling. To suggest that there’s no purpose discussing the transmission type indicates a lack of understanding about the car’s cooling system. In fact, the transmission type matters more than anything else in this discussion.
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      06-18-2011, 09:18 PM   #440
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Steptronic-equipped 335i's add far more heat to the car’s already inadequate cooling system through an oil to water heat exchanger for transmission cooling. To suggest that there’s no purpose discussing the transmission type indicates a lack of understanding about the car’s cooling system. In fact, the transmission type matters more than anything else in this discussion.
and thats where your negativity on the subject, blinds you to the facts. Those of us who are actively racing and contributing data to this thread have been more than able to control coolant, and thus trans temps by simply lowering the concentration of coolant, and adding a water wetter.
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