[2one3E90]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

My transmission behaves normally; it feels the same and operates the same now as it did when the car had 3 miles on it. That should cover all your questions.

Did you delete the Clutch delay valve?

[krhodes1]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

I've driven in the North East a lot. Been to NE 15 times at least on road trips in the summer and winter. As I stated previously, my wife lived in NYC or NYC area for 4 years. I'm no stranger to the North East; the only thing I'd own up there is a 4x4 truck. The roads immediately around my house are not NE torn up, but they are mostly tar & chip paved, so they are not billiard table smooth either. And I do a lot of aggressive driving on roads that are not straight; it is a BMW after all.

The North East tears up all car suspensions, just not BMW. I don't think BMW suspensions are weak and by any means weaker than any other manufacturer's suspensions. I do think most people on BMW Forums have BMWitis and over-replace components.

I get the geolocation of FCPEuro, but not all of its customers live in the North East. Mr. FCP made it sound like ALL E9X get only 40,000 - 80,000 out of a suspension, which I do not think is true. That's all I'm saying.

I never said BMWs are any worse than anything else, because they mostly aren't. But up here (and dumbass me is in Maine this week for work) all cars get pounded to crap in short order. 4x4 trucks do too, BTW. I've never had a car from any make that wasn't past it's suspension prime by 100K. Does that mean it is "worn out" ? Maybe not - but if you want it to drive like new, you need to be replace parts by then even if you aren't forced to by actual failure.

As I have said many times before - I like working on my cars on MY TIME, not the car's time. So I will replace things that are going to break before they do, within reason - and given I drive 1/10th the miles you do that ends up being not very often. Though I don't disagree that there are some serious car hypochondriacs on here. That kid worrying that his car takes an extra 2 seconds to start being a prime example.

[John 070]

Originally Posted by krhodes1

As I have said many times before - I like working on my cars on MY TIME, not the car's time.

You would not be a good fit with GM products. The things I've replaced on my wife's car, have never even been replaced yet on the 3 other cars. It makes me wonder, would a 2021 Tahoe be the same old song and dance, or have they improved? I try to tell myself well oh cool now you know how to fix a ABS/service stabilitrak issue for $7 instead of $200, but other times I say it never should have broken in the first place at 90k....

The ONLY thing that failed on my 335i in 14 years was the DSC/Hydro but again that is not 335 specific, it plagues all BMWs including motorcycles....

[CTinline-six]

Originally Posted by John 070

You would not be a good fit with GM products. The things I've replaced on my wife's car, have never even been replaced yet on the 3 other cars. It makes me wonder, would a 2021 Tahoe be the same old song and dance, or have they improved? I try to tell myself well oh cool now you know how to fix a ABS/service stabilitrak issue for $7 instead of $200, but other times I say it never should have broken in the first place at 90k....

The ONLY thing that failed on my 335i in 14 years was the DSC/Hydro but again that is not 335 specific, it plagues all BMWs including motorcycles....

I'm not a fan of GM products. It's not that they have major design flaws, but it's usually a bunch of little shit that goes wrong with them that will annoy you to death. Usually electrical stuff, or cheap build and materials quality. One of my friends only buys Chevy trucks, his whole family owns Chevy trucks. Never a major engine issue, but literally every electrical thing has failed. I know the salt definitely doesn't help, but it's just crazy. Even their new Silverado with the 10 speed has been a programming nightmare. The transmission hunts for gears constantly, and some days when it shifts the transmission feels like it's going to fall out and be sitting on the road. All on a truck with 3400 miles on it, dealers say everything is fine.

Ford isn't any better.

[Buug959]

Originally Posted by CTinline-six

I'm not a fan of GM products. It's not that they have major design flaws, but it's usually a bunch of little shit that goes wrong with them that will annoy you to death. Usually electrical stuff, or cheap build and materials quality. One of my friends only buys Chevy trucks, his whole family owns Chevy trucks. Never a major engine issue, but literally every electrical thing has failed. I know the salt definitely doesn't help, but it's just crazy. Even their new Silverado with the 10 speed has been a programming nightmare. The transmission hunts for gears constantly, and some days when it shifts the transmission feels like it's going to fall out and be sitting on the road. All on a truck with 3400 miles on it, dealers say everything is fine.

Ford isn't any better.

I had an '08 Chevy Silverado that I bought brand new. It had a drivetrain vibration at about 85kph. After countless trips to the dealer (they even bought a brand new road force wheel balancer because of my truck) the service manager looked me in the eye and said "I agree your truck has a problem but I can't fix it.". The dealership refused to exchange the truck for me (it had less than 2k kms on it) so I sold it and bought an '05 Sierra. That was a great truck. I put over 250k kms on it before it's body rusted away.(life in NS ) I've got a '17 Sierra now. No issues other than the common leak at the shark fin antenna. Fingers crossed for a long life with this one.

[CTinline-six]

Originally Posted by LemansE90335xi

I had an '08 Chevy Silverado that I bought brand new. It had a drivetrain vibration at about 85kph. After countless trips to the dealer (they even bought a brand new road force wheel balancer because of my truck) the service manager looked me in the eye and said "I agree your truck has a problem but I can't fix it.". The dealership refused to exchange the truck for me (it had less than 2k kms on it) so I sold it and bought an '05 Sierra. That was a great truck. I put over 250k kms on it before it's body rusted away.(life in NS ) I've got a '17 Sierra now. No issues other than the common leak at the shark fin antenna. Fingers crossed for a long life with this one.

I wish you luck. They were great vehicles up to about 2005 or so, after that the quality has really suffered. Don't even get me started on anything diesel powered, from any of the big three. What a nightmare. Those will bankrupt people faster than any N54 or V8 powered BMW will.

[Buug959]

Originally Posted by CTinline-six

I wish you luck. They were great vehicles up to about 2005 or so, after that the quality has really suffered. Don't even get me started on anything diesel powered, from any of the big three. What a nightmare. Those will bankrupt people faster than any N54 or V8 powered BMW will.

I guess I'm a gluten for punishment as I just bought my first BMW this past July, an '08 335xi e90. Wish me luck with that one too.

[John 070]

Originally Posted by LemansE90335xi

I had an '08 Chevy Silverado that I bought brand new. It had a drivetrain vibration at about 85kph. After countless trips to the dealer (they even bought a brand new road force wheel balancer because of my truck) the service manager looked me in the eye and said "I agree your truck has a problem but I can't fix it.". The dealership refused to exchange the truck for me (it had less than 2k kms on it) so I sold it and bought an '05 Sierra. That was a great truck. I put over 250k kms on it before it's body rusted away.(life in NS ) I've got a '17 Sierra now. No issues other than the common leak at the shark fin antenna. Fingers crossed for a long life with this one.

Our dealer took 1.5 years to fix a captain's chair in the rear....and you thought the BMW dealer saying "this may take 3 weeks, a rep has to fly in from Germany" was a long time!

No lie, once I was in the waiting area and the SA approached a gentleman, we think we may be close to finding the issue. He goes, I'll be dead before you guys figure anything out! Here's where empathy is supposed to kick in and all that customer service training--SA paused, then walked away

And I really do like the 2021 Tahoe, but can't imagine getting treated the way we did at the dealer...on a car that expensive (over 80k)

[2one3E90]

Original STARTER WHAT?!? They last that long? Wow. Howcome mines failed at 120,000 miles. Is it a wear and tear item?

[3PedalJake]

Originally Posted by 2one3E90

Original STARTER WHAT?!? They last that long? Wow. Howcome mines failed at 120,000 miles. Is it a wear and tear item?

He is driving over 100 miles every time he turns the key. Mileage tells you next to nothing about the possible condition of the starter.

[2one3E90]

Originally Posted by 3PedalJake

He is driving over 100 miles every time he turns the key. Mileage tells you next to nothing about the possible condition of the starter.

Everytime he presses the button you mean Lol

[3PedalJake]

Originally Posted by 2one3E90

Everytime he presses the button you mean Lol

Yeah what you said Average miles per trip would be a better indicator cause yeah it's a wear item, it wears a bit every time you umm push the button. Still can't get used to that lol.

[Efthreeoh]

For my E90, I've estimated 2,650 days of actual driving use based on 240 work days per year. From 2007 through 2014 it was my daily driver 5 days/week. Since 2015 it has split duty with my other cars. Anyway, based on an average of 4 starts per day, that calcs out to 10,480 engine starts. I'm not sure that's any less per day than most people who daily a car.

Add in my case where the starter is exposed to a lot more time in the elements, which also affects longevity; more rain, more salt, more road dirt, more heat exposure, it going the distance to 383,000 plus an estimated 10,480 engine starts, is a testament to how robust the starter is on the N52.

[eljay]

At the risk of derailing this thread into EV vs ICE bashing.... I'll ask anyway and I'll ask folks to keep this to the question as there are plenty other threads on EVs in general.

Because OP has an excellent data source, my question is:
Let's assume this car has an EV drivetrain. Can you add up all the "non-EV" related costs and sum them up, so we can get an idea of what they are?
I have no hypothesis to prove here whether EV or ICE-based vehicle is cheaper etc. I just want the facts, which is exactly what you've done with your data. Thanks for that!

I think non-EV items would be anything engine/tranny/diff related like fluid changes, gaskets, leaks, air filters, spark plugs, cooling, vacuum components

I'd assume suspension, brakes (may we need to assume double life on rotors/pads), A/C, cabin filters, wipers etc. remain the same.

I think it would be an interested exercise to see that.

TIA

[tlow98]

Originally Posted by eljay

At the risk of derailing this thread into EV vs ICE bashing.... I'll ask anyway and I'll ask folks to keep this to the question as there are plenty other threads on EVs in general.

Because OP has an excellent data source, my question is:
Let's assume this car has an EV drivetrain. Can you add up all the "non-EV" related costs and sum them up, so we can get an idea of what they are?
I have no hypothesis to prove here whether EV or ICE-based vehicle is cheaper etc. I just want the facts, which is exactly what you've done with your data. Thanks for that!

I think non-EV items would be anything engine/tranny/diff related like fluid changes, gaskets, leaks, air filters, spark plugs, cooling, vacuum components

I'd assume suspension, brakes (may we need to assume double life on rotors/pads), A/C, cabin filters, wipers etc. remain the same.

I think it would be an interested exercise to see that.

TIA

To do that comparison you would also need to makes some assumptions about EV component failure that’s unrelated to ICE. Slipper slope I suspect.

[2one3E90]

Originally Posted by efthreeoh

for my e90, i've estimated 2,650 days of actual driving use based on 240 work days per year. From 2007 through 2014 it was my daily driver 5 days/week. Since 2015 it has split duty with my other cars. Anyway, based on an average of 4 starts per day, that calcs out to 10,480 engine starts. I'm not sure that's any less per day than most people who daily a car.

Add in my case where the starter is exposed to a lot more time in the elements, which also affects longevity; more rain, more salt, more road dirt, more heat exposure, it going the distance to 383,000 plus an estimated 10,480 engine starts, is a testament to how robust the starter is on the n52.

aaaaggghhhhhh zombie car

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by eljay

At the risk of derailing this thread into EV vs ICE bashing.... I'll ask anyway and I'll ask folks to keep this to the question as there are plenty other threads on EVs in general.

Because OP has an excellent data source, my question is:
Let's assume this car has an EV drivetrain. Can you add up all the "non-EV" related costs and sum them up, so we can get an idea of what they are?
I have no hypothesis to prove here whether EV or ICE-based vehicle is cheaper etc. I just want the facts, which is exactly what you've done with your data. Thanks for that!

I think non-EV items would be anything engine/tranny/diff related like fluid changes, gaskets, leaks, air filters, spark plugs, cooling, vacuum components

I'd assume suspension, brakes (may we need to assume double life on rotors/pads), A/C, cabin filters, wipers etc. remain the same.

I think it would be an interested exercise to see that.

TIA

I think my initial post has that info. I've tried to search on that very subject and the best I found was EV are predicted to have a 6 cents per mile maintenance cost vs. ICE at 12 cents. I think as DIY I'm around 9 cents. I don't know enough about EV maintenance, but EVs do have coolant for batteries, and oil for the motor(s) and differential. I have no idea of the change intervals for the fluids. Of course EV has brake fluid that needs maintenance. The brakes probably last 200,000?

EV are not maintenance free. And if you like to DIY repairs, that's a whole different level skill set. Easy to cook yourself with 20 kWh batteries. Just sayin'

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by 2one3E90

aaaaggghhhhhh zombie car

I'm starting to think that too. Honestly.

[lowrydr310]

Originally Posted by 2one3E90

Does your car struggle to get into reverse or 1st during a cold start?

If you struggle to get into first or reverse, you may have air in the clutch line and should bleed it. I get this on my 330i if I leave it sitting in the garage too long. So until I buy the power bleeder I just pump the pedal a few times before a cold start and then I have no issues.

[2one3E90]

Hmm even tho I got the clutch fluid changed a month ago?

[lowrydr310]

Originally Posted by 2one3E90

Hmm even tho I got the clutch fluid changed a month ago?

Was the system bled when you changed it? Clutch fluid is shared with the brake fluid, same reservoir. If the clutch wasn't bled, it's possible there's air in the system.

[2one3E90]

Originally Posted by lowrydr310

Was the system bled when you changed it? Clutch fluid is shared with the brake fluid, same reservoir. If the clutch wasn't bled, it's possible there's air in the system.

Yeah both bled and then changed. Atetype 200