[Big Tom]

Originally Posted by WAYNEBO

BigTom, et. al. --- I still don't see a clear answer on plumbing parts list and mounting. Please elaborate.

Have a look here:

Originally Posted by Big Tom

You have to cut the stock IC shroud away, as shown in this pic:



I secured the IC in the upper part against the bodywork with 6 extra strong cable ties.
It's totally solid.

Here's all the parts I used for piping:

2 pieces Aluminiumtube coupler 2,5": http://www.do88.se/p/aluminium-pipes...oupler-25.html

Silicone hose 90 degree 2,5": http://www.do88.se/p/silicone-hoses/...degree-25.html

Silicone hose 45 degree 2,5 - 3": http://www.do88.se/p/silicone-hoses/...gree-25-3.html

Silicone hose 2,5 - 3": http://www.do88.se/p/silicone-hoses/...3-63-76mm.html

20 cm of Silicone hose 2,5": http://www.do88.se/p/silicone-hoses/...e-25-63mm.html

+ some hose clamps.

No rocket science...

[techlogik]

Originally Posted by Big Tom

That IC has exactly the same size as the AA, 11085 cm3.
Mine is 13770 cm3.

Actually, isn't it 12405 cm3 for the CX Racing.

Core Size: 18"x12"x3.5"

45.7cm X 30.5cm X 8.9cm = 13770 cm3.


The CX is 1300cm3 larger. Still not as big as the 4" core obviously, but still better than AA.

[vitig]

dificult installation but the first impresion is that make very much power.

good klracing.

[Big Tom]

Originally Posted by techlogik

Actually, isn't it 12405 cm3 for the CX Racing.

Core Size: 18"x12"x3.5"

45.7cm X 30.5cm X 8.9cm = 13770 cm3.


The CX is 1300cm3 larger. Still not as big as the 4" core obviously, but still better than AA.

The correct volyms are:

AA = 43.0 X 29.0 X 8.9 = 11098 cm3

CX Racing = 45.7 X 30.5 X 8.9 = 12405 cm3

Big Tom FMIC = 45.7 X 30.5 X 10.2 = 14217 cm3

[techlogik]

Originally Posted by Big Tom

The correct volyms are:

AA = 43.0 X 29.0 X 8.9 = 11098 cm3

CX Racing = 45.7 X 30.5 X 8.9 = 12405 cm3

Big Tom FMIC = 45.7 X 30.5 X 10.2 = 14217 cm3

Yeah, exactly what I calculated....

Even the CX for under $200 is a good option compared to the $1000 AA setup.

BT even better!

How did you fasten the IC? Any pics? The other TS on the other BT thread had brackets welded on the IC and nuts on the bumper support and just attached it that way...good idea.

[lyndon_h]

I've been following this thread for a long time, but I still chuckle everytime the IC is referred to as a Big Tom IC. I hope the name sticks for a long time.

[Big Tom]

Originally Posted by lyndon_h

I've been following this thread for a long time, but I still chuckle everytime the IC is referred to as a Big Tom IC. I hope the name sticks for a long time.

[tmo24]

subscribing

[Big Tom]

Here's a nice DIY from a guy installing the IC on his 135i:



This mod has sparked alot of debate. One things for sure it's cheap. The only problem is it doesn't come with instructions. So here you go.

I have no clue what I'm doing. Honestly. Just look at my car and these pics and you'll come to understand that I'm incompetent and following my DIY will almost assure that you damage your car to a point beyond repair. I post this to demonstrate how not to do this. Please don't bother me if you manage to break your car too and of course your warranty is void. You cut off your shroud to fit an intercooler 3 times the size of what the car came with!!!

Step 1. Will be to remove the front bumper cover. To do this you need an 8mm socket I recommend a T-handle (EJ25 block not included) since there are approx 1,867 screws. (I might have exaggerated) Also you will need a 10mm for the plastic nuts in the wheel liner. and a torx bit T25 I believe for the bumper cover.

a. remove the underbody tray and front portion of the liner inside the wheel wells NOTE, the pictures showing the TPMS sensors attached to the liner. There is a simple clip you sqeeze the sides and pull out the connector to remove the fender liner.

b. Remove headlight washer covers. Work a finger underneath the cover with even pressure around its surface pull up. If you pull the full length of travel washer fluid will begin to leak out. (this is normal) Using light pressure pull apart the clip or twist to remove cover.

c. Look inside the fender and make sure you've removed all the 8mm screws on the front side I believe there is one on each side that secures the bumper to the fender. Next use a T25 torx to remove the four screws attaching the top of the bumper cover these are immediatly above the kidney grills under the front edge of the hood. If you've removed all the bottom fasteners this is the last piece holding on the hood. I find it best to remove the bumper cover with one person at each wheel. Carefully set it aside.

Step 2.
Remove Intercooler
a. Release pull and turn style plastic clips and bottom support from stock Intercooler.
b. Locate metal clip connectors on inlet and outlet pipes. Using pliers or small screw driver lightly pry the "hump" in the clip away from the pipe. The clip will unlock and remain just above the pipe.
c. remove torx screws located on the bottom of the intercooler note this is the last piece holding the intercooler in place

Step 3.
Trimming.
a. Disconnect washer nozzle hose by pushing on the blue clip and pulling the hose away from the nozzle. Secure this, sensor mounted onto radiator shourd infront of intercooler, and electrical wire running along the backside of the bumper out of the way to prevent damage while cutting radiator shroud.
b. remove kidney scoops. 1 T-25 screw is centered underneath each scoop and the top clips into place. Also remove rod running from bumper to the top of the radiator support.
c. This is the point of no return. Cut all plastic to horizontal line just below kidney scoops down to just inside of the lower headlight mounting brackets. BE CAREFUL there is alot of soft aluminum to catch your blade the second you stop paying attention.[ATTACH][/ATTACH]


Step 4.
Install
a. Remove soft rubber springy hose from turbo side piping. I've included a picture of the band so you can determine not to best remove it.
b. Build connector for turbo side. I believe this is a 45degree 3" to 2.5" silicone hose into a 2.5" by 6" hard pipe and capped off with a 2.5" hose this will attach the turbo piping to the intercooler.
c. The connector on the charge pipe side should be a 3" to 2.5" reduction hose connected to a 2.5" hard pipe and connected to the factory pipe with a 2.5" hose. "I ran out of red, but now it's superman theme instead of batmobile"
d. using a patient friend or some thing to lift intercooler into place check clearance from plastic and position once it is aligned attach silicone hose to intercooler (make sure everything is clean because this is the intake side of your engine and what ever you have let enter this system will probably end up in your cylinder.
e. I chose to secure my intercooler with two aluminum bars bent to attach to the undercarriage by drilling four holes and securing it with pop rivets. The bar runs forward and up the end tanks where it bends over the top of the bumper. This is very secure and I have no doubts it will get the job done My front fits over this intercooler. The underbody tray was pulled forward a couple MM but I managed to attach everything by starting at the back where it aligned the best and moving forward. Check to make sure you don't need to trim anything as your putting the car back together.

Final step is share a brew with your awesome german friend that helped out and let you use his shop and lift.
Attached Images

[tmo24]

Ok, while searching for the rx-7 one online, I came across this one and it seems to be close in dimensions. But I don't know enough about fitment or quality etc to know if this will work. But what caught my eye was the $90 shipped price tag that it holds and it is coming from cali. Can someone chime in on what they think? I have read the debates here on quality etc, but honestly, it looks the same from the outside. Not sure what internal differences there are but for $90, it looks like a steal.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...ht_3557wt_1167

[biz77]

Originally Posted by tmo24

Ok, while searching for the rx-7 one online, I came across this one and it seems to be close in dimensions. But I don't know enough about fitment or quality etc to know if this will work. But what caught my eye was the $90 shipped price tag that it holds and it is coming from cali. Can someone chime in on what they think? I have read the debates here on quality etc, but honestly, it looks the same from the outside. Not sure what internal differences there are but for $90, it looks like a steal.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...ht_3557wt_1167

The core appears to be only a 12" x 12". the 18" length they are getting is including the end-tanks. This one appears to be a bit small.

[335xiRT1]

Big Tom FMIC on 135i

http://

[kennejp]

Sick man. I bet that looks intimidating in peoples rear mirrors!

[crazytaiwanese]

should paint that thing black, sticks out like a sore thumb, but if thats the plan disregard lol.

[tmo24]

Originally Posted by biz77

The core appears to be only a 12" x 12". the 18" length they are getting is including the end-tanks. This one appears to be a bit small.

Ok, I figured out how to calculate the core volume and it comes to 7669 cm3 which seems like its close to the stock size. So really there would be no point to change it right? What is an ideal size? The others mentioned in here are anywhere from 11000-14000 cm3.

[Black Sheep]

Is that CX Racing Intercooler that's in the states good enough? Anyone have this on their car?

Front Mount or V-Mount Turbo Intercooler.
- Bar & Plate Aluminum Intercooler
- Core Size: 18"x12"x3.5"
- Overall Size: 24"x12"x3.5"
- 3.5" Thick Core
- 2.5" Backward Inlet & Outlet

[Bakeme521]

So on a 135 you can't even fit the front mesh?

[forza1976]

Originally Posted by 335xiRT1

Big Tom FMIC on 135i

http://

Wow, that is a bit much for my taste. Would be better if the stock bumper grill could be in place.

[techlogik]

Originally Posted by forza1976

Wow, that is a bit much for my taste. Would be better if the stock bumper grill could be in place.

Maybe painting it black would help...then again..maybe not.

[335xiRT1]

Originally Posted by Bakeme521

So on a 135 you can't even fit the front mesh?

You can fit the front mesh.

I wanna show the beast off though. It looks sick.

[forza1976]

Originally Posted by techlogik

Maybe painting it black would help...then again..maybe not.

I think that would help quite a bit... but I guess to each their own.

I bet it cools the IAT's something fierce though.

[biz77]

Originally Posted by tmo24

Ok, I figured out how to calculate the core volume and it comes to 7669 cm3 which seems like its close to the stock size. So really there would be no point to change it right? What is an ideal size? The others mentioned in here are anywhere from 11000-14000 cm3.

My concern isn't the core size in terms of cooling or flow ability, but the fact that this is very narrow in comparison to the other units shown. I'd be worried that the inlet and outlet of this particular intercooler are going to be butting up against the radiator, whereas the other units are wide enough that the inlet and outlet of the intercooler fall outside the width of the radiator.